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On Apr 2, 6:52*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
What happens if the trim fails in the water. You couldn't pull the
boat out of the water without hitting the prop, right? How would you
get it out of the water?

-Robert


Most have a pressure release valve you can open with a screwdriver,
raise the motor (or drive if an I/O) turn the screw back in and the
motor will stay up.
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On Apr 3, 4:54*am, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

Goes without saying - duct tape, 200 mph tape, gaffer's tape -
whatever, it's an essential part of any tool kit. *:)


And WD-40. If it's not moving it gets WD-40, if its moving and it
shouldn't it gets duck tape.
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On Wed, 2 Apr 2008 21:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?


I do. in either boat the 18' or the 23', is a fairly well supply of
tools, electrical wire, tape wire connectors, etc. in the big boat, I
have a spare alternator, too!

Not saying it's all necessary, but 'tis best to have and not need,
than to need and not have.


The reason I ask is because I actually needed to make a tool to get
the lock pin out of the tilt/trim on my Merc and it was in the
driveway. I can't imagine doing this in the water. You better be able
to stand up and you are probably going to loser something


Unless I have something different in mind, all you need is a screwdriver.
Pop the black cap with a screw driver. Remove the E clip with the
screwdriver. Drive the shaft out with the screw driver hitting it with the
palm of your hand. If that doesn't make sense we are thinking of different
attachment methods.

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On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:31:48 -0700 (PDT), "Robert M. Gary"
wrote:

And WD-40. If it's not moving it gets WD-40, if its moving and it
shouldn't it gets duck tape.


Although I always carry a can of WD40 it is highly overrated. PB
Blaster or AeroKroil are much better penetrating fluids, and
Corrosion-X or Boesheild T-9 are much better protectants.



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On Apr 3, 4:32*am, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 06:21:47 -0400, "Jim" wrote:

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:


On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:


The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.


You carry the tools to do that on the boat?


All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.


Just in case 'ya know?


You are assuming all boaters are familiar with tools.


You know, that is a good point.

Hadn't thought of that.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I'm with Tom. Good point!

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On Apr 3, 6:35*am, wrote:
On Apr 2, 6:52*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:

What happens if the trim fails in the water. You couldn't pull the
boat out of the water without hitting the prop, right? How would you
get it out of the water?


-Robert


Most have a pressure release valve you can open with a screwdriver,
raise the motor (or drive if an I/O) turn the screw back in and the
motor will stay up.


And that's great, that is, if you can get to it. Some boat mfj's love
to hide the pump in the most inconvenient places.

Been there, done that.
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"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 4:32 am, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 06:21:47 -0400, "Jim" wrote:

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:


On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:


The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.


You carry the tools to do that on the boat?


All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.


Just in case 'ya know?


You are assuming all boaters are familiar with tools.


You know, that is a good point.

Hadn't thought of that.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I'm with Tom. Good point!

But you may have a passenger and or a passerby who is familiar with the use
of tools. Also a voltmeter should be in that tool kit. I bought the one in
the boat at the 99 cent store. Works fine.


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On Apr 3, 6:23*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 16:03:01 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing

wrote:
Ok, I've got to ask.


Why the special tool and on what kind of engine?


Merc outboards use a taper pin with a big flat head like a nail. You
are supposed to be able to knock it loose with a screwdriver and a
hammer but all that did was bend the pin. I ended up grinding
something like a little tie rod sepataror to break it loose.
Before that design (late 80s) you had to drive it out with a drift
punch. When you get the lock pin out you have to drive out the
(corroded in there) pin.
I certaily like loosening up the bleed screw a lot better.


It was tricky, but in the middle of the wabash river, years ago, I
changed out a prop and key on a Johnson while floating down stream.
wearing a ski jacket and being held close to the motor with a rope, I
made very sure nothing was dropped, and thank goodness, because we
didn't have any spare washers or jam nuts.
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wrote in message
...
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 16:03:01 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

Ok, I've got to ask.

Why the special tool and on what kind of engine?


Merc outboards use a taper pin with a big flat head like a nail. You
are supposed to be able to knock it loose with a screwdriver and a
hammer but all that did was bend the pin.



Speaking of old Mercs ...... I wonder what happened to "Clams" somebody who
used to post here. He rebuilt old Mercs and had an inventory of old "Tower
of Power" parts. I used to enjoy his posts.

Eisboch


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