Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

I am have my first trailered boat; before now my boats were small enough to
just store upside down on the dock for the winter.

Someone told me it I should put the back up on blocks to take the load off
the tires, so I have done that. How about the front. Must that be propped
up also, or is the crank thing okay?

The guy I bought it from lubed everything last April. The trailer has only
been in the water twice since then. Does it need any maintenance?

Thanks much

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am have my first trailered boat; before now my boats were small enough to
just store upside down on the dock for the winter.

Someone told me it I should put the back up on blocks to take the load off
the tires, so I have done that. How about the front. Must that be
propped up also, or is the crank thing okay?

The guy I bought it from lubed everything last April. The trailer has
only been in the water twice since then. Does it need any maintenance?

Thanks much


- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel bearings? Do you
see something like this in the centers of your wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a good look at
all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean, not corroded. If
they're made with electrical tape over soldered wire joints, that's sloppy
and they should be replaced with crimped connections covered with heat
shrink tubing.

- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable lock or
some other method?

- Check all trailer hardware for tightness. Make a list of the tools you
need to tighten these things, and buy a dedicated set of tools that will
live in the tow vehicle. Boats & trailers only have problems when you're
away from home. Don't buy cheap tools, figuring that you're not likely to
need them. When you're on the side of a highway in the pouring rain, cheap
tools won't make you happy.

- Check all the boat wiring (lights, etc.) now, same as you did for the
trailer. Tape & solder joints are for slobs. Only crimps & heat shrink
tubing are allowed in this universe, for boats & other toys that live
outdoors.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel bearings? Do
you see something like this in the centers of your wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is exposed to
water so little?

- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a good look
at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean, not corroded. If
they're made with electrical tape over soldered wire joints, that's sloppy
and they should be replaced with crimped connections covered with heat
shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling off; expect
the connections are pretty bad underneath also. Wouldn't soldered joints
covered with shrink be okay? I did that for my invisible fence 15 years ago
and they are still okay. But it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if
that is better.

- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable lock or
some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and found the
spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but the bigger problem
was that it was locked on and I didn't have the key! When I put the boat in
I didn't have the key either, and the tire was probably flat then also; good
thing I didn't need it. Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable lock or
some other method?

One of the things I look for when shopping for a trailer are trailer
wheels with the same bolt pattern as my tow vehicle. I don't always
find one but a prospective trailer gets extra points when I do,

Rick

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Prop up the front too. Be sure to remove the transom drain plug and that the
boat is tilted enough to drain any water that gets into it.

wrote in message
...
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable lock or
some other method?

One of the things I look for when shopping for a trailer are trailer
wheels with the same bolt pattern as my tow vehicle. I don't always
find one but a prospective trailer gets extra points when I do,

Rick

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"Toller" wrote in message
...


- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel bearings? Do
you see something like this in the centers of your wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is exposed
to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover Bearing
Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a metal cover under
the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak option in a place that could
brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or replaced the
bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so you've got a starting
point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a good look
at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean, not corroded. If
they're made with electrical tape over soldered wire joints, that's
sloppy and they should be replaced with crimped connections covered with
heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling off;
expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also. Wouldn't soldered
joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that for my invisible fence 15
years ago and they are still okay. But it is probably easier to crimp
them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the joint for
sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and file or clip them.
Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly designed tool, and they not
so easy to find. The jaws on most tools don't shape the crimp correctly as
it squeezes them, because the jaws are almost flat, with slight curves
carved into them. That's useless. At this links below, check out the tool,
and click on the picture for a closer look at what the jaws should look
like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All

or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable lock or
some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and found
the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but the bigger
problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the key! When I put
the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the tire was probably flat
then also; good thing I didn't need it. Came off in 2 seconds with an
angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel bearings? Do
you see something like this in the centers of your wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is exposed
to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover Bearing
Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a metal cover under
the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak option in a place that could
brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or replaced the
bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so you've got a starting
point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a good look
at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean, not corroded. If
they're made with electrical tape over soldered wire joints, that's
sloppy and they should be replaced with crimped connections covered with
heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling off;
expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also. Wouldn't soldered
joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that for my invisible fence 15
years ago and they are still okay. But it is probably easier to crimp
them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the joint for
sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and file or clip them.
Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly designed tool, and they not
so easy to find. The jaws on most tools don't shape the crimp correctly as
it squeezes them, because the jaws are almost flat, with slight curves
carved into them. That's useless. At this links below, check out the tool,
and click on the picture for a closer look at what the jaws should look
like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All

or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable lock or
some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and found
the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but the bigger
problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the key! When I put
the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the tire was probably flat
then also; good thing I didn't need it. Came off in 2 seconds with an
angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.




I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off the
ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by the the
suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know" whether they
have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make sure the
bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the tires are
properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are removed, I
have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels, if I
have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel bearings?
Do you see something like this in the centers of your wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak option
in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or replaced
the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so you've got a
starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a good
look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean, not
corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over soldered wire
joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced with crimped
connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling off;
expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also. Wouldn't
soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that for my
invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But it is
probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the joint
for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and file or
clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly designed
tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on most tools don't shape
the crimp correctly as it squeezes them, because the jaws are almost
flat, with slight curves carved into them. That's useless. At this
links below, check out the tool, and click on the picture for a closer
look at what the jaws should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but the
bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the key!
When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the tire was
probably flat then also; good thing I didn't need it. Came off in 2
seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off the
ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by the the
suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know" whether they
have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make sure the
bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the tires are
properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are removed, I
have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels, if I
have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I ALWAYS
kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I did, was
my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was emphatic that
the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the tire over the
winter, would cause the tire to become permanently unbalanced (I think
he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires would crack prematurely,
where they sat on the ground. I also (based upon his recommendations)
made sure the tires were covered with a tarp to make sure they did not
dry rot from UV degradation. Both were very easy to do and took less
than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak option
in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a good
look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean, not
corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over soldered wire
joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced with crimped
connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling off;
expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also. Wouldn't
soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that for my
invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But it is
probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the joint
for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and file or
clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly designed
tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on most tools don't
shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them, because the jaws are
almost flat, with slight curves carved into them. That's useless. At
this links below, check out the tool, and click on the picture for a
closer look at what the jaws should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but
the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the
key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the
tire was probably flat then also; good thing I didn't need it. Came
off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off the
ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by the the
suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know" whether
they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make sure the
bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the tires are
properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are removed,
I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels, if
I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I ALWAYS
kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I did, was
my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was emphatic that
the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the tire over the
winter, would cause the tire to become permanently unbalanced (I think
he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires would crack prematurely,
where they sat on the ground. I also (based upon his recommendations)
made sure the tires were covered with a tarp to make sure they did not
dry rot from UV degradation. Both were very easy to do and took less
than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for three
or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires don't
develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers at the
distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my dealer stores
on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on blocks and jacks, too.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean,
not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over soldered
wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced with
crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that
for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But
it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the joint
for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and file or
clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly designed
tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on most tools don't
shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them, because the jaws are
almost flat, with slight curves carved into them. That's useless. At
this links below, check out the tool, and click on the picture for a
closer look at what the jaws should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but
the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the
key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the
tire was probably flat then also; good thing I didn't need it.
Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make
sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the
tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels,
if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I
did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also (based
upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered with a tarp
to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation. Both were very
easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for three
or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires don't
develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers at the
distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my dealer stores
on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on blocks and jacks, too.

Harry,

As I said, he could be wrong, but I was purchasing his boat and it was
in perfect condition so I followed his maintenance recommendations and
procedure. I not only jacked the tires off the ground, but also put a
jack under the tongue so the adjustable trailer jack was not supporting
the weight.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..

The reason I did, was
my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was emphatic that
the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the tire over the
winter, would cause the tire to become permanently unbalanced (I think
he said a "flat spot".


I think it really depends on the type of tire and it's construction. Not to
doubt your Dad, but your average, regular duty tires won't become
permanently "unbalanced" due to flat spots. Although they may take a small
temporary set, it's usually too little to notice and it goes away quickly
when driving.

High performance tires, like those on the Porsche, will develop flat spot
overnight sitting in the garage. It is very noticeable when you first start
driving and it takes several miles to "round out". These tires, unlike
regular tires, are very soft and "gummy" to permit high adhesion to the road
or track. They also don't last very long either ... 25K-30K miles is about
it.

Eisboch

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I
did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also
(based upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered
with a tarp to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation.
Both were very easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for
three or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires
don't develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers
at the distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my
dealer stores on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on
blocks and jacks, too.

Harry,

As I said, he could be wrong, but I was purchasing his boat and it was
in perfect condition so I followed his maintenance recommendations and
procedure. I not only jacked the tires off the ground, but also put a
jack under the tongue so the adjustable trailer jack was not supporting
the weight.

Whatever floats your boat. You didn't jack the tires off the
ground...you probably jacked the axles off the ground. That might work
with "solid" axles, but I'd be wary of trying it with a torsion bar axle
system, and if you jacked up the frame, the torsion axles would sag, I
would think.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean,
not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over soldered
wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced with
crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that
for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But
it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the joint
for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and file or
clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly designed
tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on most tools don't
shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them, because the jaws are
almost flat, with slight curves carved into them. That's useless. At
this links below, check out the tool, and click on the picture for a
closer look at what the jaws should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but
the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the
key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the
tire was probably flat then also; good thing I didn't need it.
Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make
sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the
tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels,
if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I
did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also (based
upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered with a tarp
to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation. Both were very
easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for three
or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires don't
develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers at the
distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my dealer stores
on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on blocks and jacks, too.


Damn, I normally didn't double check my father on engineering type
recommendations, but I just did on this. It looks like not only did my
Dad recommend it, but so do Trailer Mfg'ers:

http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover or
tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do not
come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when a
trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely closed
position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the elements -
clouds do not inhibit UV rays.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"HK" wrote in message
. ..

Whatever floats your boat. You didn't jack the tires off the
ground...you probably jacked the axles off the ground.

One major advantage of leaving the trailer with the tires *on* the ground is
that in the spring you will notice that they are flat before taking the
jackstands out, only to have to jack it back up again.

Saves time.


Eisboch

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look
clean, not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over
soldered wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced
with crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that
for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But
it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the
joint for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and
file or clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly
designed tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on most tools
don't shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them, because the
jaws are almost flat, with slight curves carved into them. That's
useless. At this links below, check out the tool, and click on the
picture for a closer look at what the jaws should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but
the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the
key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the
tire was probably flat then also; good thing I didn't need it.
Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make
sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the
tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels,
if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I
did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also
(based upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered
with a tarp to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation.
Both were very easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for
three or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires
don't develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers
at the distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my
dealer stores on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on
blocks and jacks, too.


Damn, I normally didn't double check my father on engineering type
recommendations, but I just did on this. It looks like not only did my
Dad recommend it, but so do Trailer Mfg'ers:

http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover or
tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do not
come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when a
trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely closed
position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the elements -
clouds do not inhibit UV rays.




Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up your
tires.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look
clean, not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over
soldered wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced
with crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that
for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But
it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the
joint for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and
file or clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a
properly designed tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on
most tools don't shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them,
because the jaws are almost flat, with slight curves carved into
them. That's useless. At this links below, check out the tool, and
click on the picture for a closer look at what the jaws should
look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but
the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have
the key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either,
and the tire was probably flat then also; good thing I didn't
need it. Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I
make sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and that
the tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels,
if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason
I did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also
(based upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered
with a tarp to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation.
Both were very easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for
three or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires
don't develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers
at the distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my
dealer stores on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on
blocks and jacks, too.


Damn, I normally didn't double check my father on engineering type
recommendations, but I just did on this. It looks like not only did
my Dad recommend it, but so do Trailer Mfg'ers:

http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover or
tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do
not come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when a
trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely closed
position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the elements
- clouds do not inhibit UV rays.




Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up your
tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on a
trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Eisboch wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
. ..
Whatever floats your boat. You didn't jack the tires off the
ground...you probably jacked the axles off the ground.

One major advantage of leaving the trailer with the tires *on* the ground is
that in the spring you will notice that they are flat before taking the
jackstands out, only to have to jack it back up again.

Saves time.


Eisboch



That, too, though surprisingly the radials on my last trailer and on the
new one don't seem to lose much air. Over the winter, the last trailer's
tires lost maybe a pound over the winter. I know, because I checked the
tires when I stored the boat and when I took it out of storage.

I do try to park in areas where there is at least partial shade,
especially for the tires, and when I store for the winter, I duct tape
plastic bags on the sides of the fenders so that the tires are screened
from the sun.

I've got an old sports car sitting in a garage. It is sitting on its
Dunlop tires. The car sits for six months at a time. I have never
noticed any "flat spots" on the tires related to storage. Car spends
most of its life under a couple of sewn-together bedsheets.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it
is exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not
a metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look
clean, not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over
soldered wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced
with crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did
that for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still
okay. But it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is
better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the
joint for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and
file or clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a
properly designed tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on
most tools don't shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them,
because the jaws are almost flat, with slight curves carved into
them. That's useless. At this links below, check out the tool,
and click on the picture for a closer look at what the jaws
should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a
cable lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked
and found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure
okay; but the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I
didn't have the key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the
key either, and the tire was probably flat then also; good thing
I didn't need it. Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I
make sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and
that the tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own
wheels, if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to
do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason
I did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He
was emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of
the tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become
permanently unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also
said the tires would crack prematurely, where they sat on the
ground. I also (based upon his recommendations) made sure the
tires were covered with a tarp to make sure they did not dry rot
from UV degradation. Both were very easy to do and took less than
5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for
three or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires
don't develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers
at the distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my
dealer stores on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on
blocks and jacks, too.


Damn, I normally didn't double check my father on engineering type
recommendations, but I just did on this. It looks like not only did
my Dad recommend it, but so do Trailer Mfg'ers:

http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover
or tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do
not come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when
a trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely
closed position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the
elements - clouds do not inhibit UV rays.




Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up your
tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on a
trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.


Gosh, I wonder what that alleged boat of yours weighs now, compared to
when it was hatched from the mold.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on a
trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.

I would like to do that, but you would be very surprised at what our water
does to stuff left in it over the winter.
I left a 400 pound sailboat in a large hoist. Come Spring it was 30' away,
turned 180 degrees (at least; maybe 900, who knows) and one hoist leg was
bent. I was happy the boat was out of the water.
My neighbors run pumps under their docks all winter so they don't get ripped
out; but I don't have electricity. I have had some boards ripped off it,
but thankfully the dock has held up.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:


http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover
or tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do
not come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when
a trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely
closed position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the
elements - clouds do not inhibit UV rays.




Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up your
tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on a
trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.


Harry,

I remembered one of the other reasons my father recommended jacking the
trailer off so the tires did not sit on the ground. Since I didn't
check the air pressure of the tires during the winter, he said it was
common for the tires to become low in pressure, with would cause
additional stress on the sideways, and cause the sidewalls to crack
prematurely. I had a tank of air I would bring up in the spring to fill
the tires before the first time I used it. You have stated many times,
that you don't keep your boats for more than a few years (after only
using them for very few hours), so it really isn't important for you.

But the original poster was wondering what the recommendation of the
experts are, here is another one who recommends jacking the tires off
the ground.

http://www.maxrules.com/storeit.html

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:


Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up
your tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on
a trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.


Gosh, I wonder what that alleged boat of yours weighs now, compared to
when it was hatched from the mold.

Harry,
I have never understood why anyone in their right mind would make up
boat ownership. Since you have fabricated so many boat ownership
stories, (that no one every believes), why do you do it?

The one story I liked best when you posted a wav file of your boat horn
to prove you actually owned a Lobster boat.

I really don't care if anyone believes I own a boat or not, it really
isn't important

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"HK" wrote in message
. ..


I've got an old sports car sitting in a garage. It is sitting on its
Dunlop tires. The car sits for six months at a time. I have never
noticed any "flat spots" on the tires related to storage. Car spends
most of its life under a couple of sewn-together bedsheets.

My '67 GTO has Coker Redlines on it. After sitting for several months they
develop a small flat spot that is noticeable for a couple of miles, then
they round out.

Eisboch

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:

Harry,

I remembered one of the other reasons my father recommended jacking the
trailer off so the tires did not sit on the ground. Since I didn't
check the air pressure of the tires during the winter, he said it was
common for the tires to become low in pressure, with would cause
additional stress on the sideways, and cause the sidewalls to crack
prematurely. I had a tank of air I would bring up in the spring to fill
the tires before the first time I used it. You have stated many times,
that you don't keep your boats for more than a few years (after only
using them for very few hours), so it really isn't important for you.

But the original poster was wondering what the recommendation of the
experts are, here is another one who recommends jacking the tires off
the ground.

http://www.maxrules.com/storeit.html

As I stated, you are free to jack up or off as you wish. As usual, you
are working much to hard to try to prove you have a point.

You have no knowledge of my boating pattern of use. I have low hours on
my previous Parker for reasons of which you have no knowledge. I've had
my current Parker since just before Labor Day and I'm sure I've put more
engine hours on that boat than you have on yours.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Eisboch wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
. ..

I've got an old sports car sitting in a garage. It is sitting on its
Dunlop tires. The car sits for six months at a time. I have never
noticed any "flat spots" on the tires related to storage. Car spends
most of its life under a couple of sewn-together bedsheets.

My '67 GTO has Coker Redlines on it. After sitting for several months they
develop a small flat spot that is noticeable for a couple of miles, then
they round out.

Eisboch



My old car is a 1959-60 model, and British, so there's no assurance that
even if the tires were round, the wheels would be.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:


Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up
your tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on
a trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.


Gosh, I wonder what that alleged boat of yours weighs now, compared to
when it was hatched from the mold.

Harry,
I have never understood why anyone in their right mind would make up
boat ownership. Since you have fabricated so many boat ownership
stories, (that no one every believes), why do you do it?

The one story I liked best when you posted a wav file of your boat horn
to prove you actually owned a Lobster boat.

I really don't care if anyone believes I own a boat or not, it really
isn't important


I made a decision not to post particular photos, and I haven't. It
delights me that that decision of mine has driven so many of this
newsgroup's a**holes, people like you, nuts.

I not only posted that horn sound, I posted photos of the horn being
sodablasted and rebuilt and powdercoated and more.

Frankly, Reggie, I've thought you a useless turd ever since you began to
pollute this newsgroup with your 50 different handles. Nothing you have
done since has caused me to change my mind about you.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:

Harry,

I remembered one of the other reasons my father recommended jacking
the trailer off so the tires did not sit on the ground. Since I
didn't check the air pressure of the tires during the winter, he said
it was common for the tires to become low in pressure, with would
cause additional stress on the sideways, and cause the sidewalls to
crack prematurely. I had a tank of air I would bring up in the spring
to fill the tires before the first time I used it. You have stated
many times, that you don't keep your boats for more than a few years
(after only using them for very few hours), so it really isn't
important for you.

But the original poster was wondering what the recommendation of the
experts are, here is another one who recommends jacking the tires off
the ground.

http://www.maxrules.com/storeit.html

As I stated, you are free to jack up or off as you wish. As usual, you
are working much to hard to try to prove you have a point.

You have no knowledge of my boating pattern of use. I have low hours on
my previous Parker for reasons of which you have no knowledge. I've had
my current Parker since just before Labor Day and I'm sure I've put more
engine hours on that boat than you have on yours.

I probably have 10-15 hrs since labor day, so you probably have used
your boat more this fall. I hope you keep using it, it looks like a
nice fishing boat for the bay. I am always amazed at how many boats
either sit in dry storage or in their slip for years without anyone
using them.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:


Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up
your tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored
on a trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for
maintenance.


Gosh, I wonder what that alleged boat of yours weighs now, compared
to when it was hatched from the mold.

Harry,
I have never understood why anyone in their right mind would make up
boat ownership. Since you have fabricated so many boat ownership
stories, (that no one every believes), why do you do it?

The one story I liked best when you posted a wav file of your boat
horn to prove you actually owned a Lobster boat.

I really don't care if anyone believes I own a boat or not, it really
isn't important


I made a decision not to post particular photos, and I haven't. It
delights me that that decision of mine has driven so many of this
newsgroup's a**holes, people like you, nuts.

Harry,
You have to trust me on this one, the fact that you don't own a Lobster
boat has not driven me nuts. I just wish you would take me up on my bet
about who owns what boat. I would split my money with the Salvation Army
and still have enough to buy my youngest a used car for her to drive.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 10:38:10 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

I hope you keep using it, it looks like a
nice fishing boat for the bay.

Actually Harry's previous boat, the pilot house Parker, was much
better suited to Chesapeake Bay. Except on the calmest days you don't
see many boats under 24 or 25 feet out there. We spent 4 weeks and
about 500 nautical miles criss crossing the Chesapeake in late
September through mid-October. There are some days when anything less
than 35 to 40 ft would be inappropriate.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am have my first trailered boat; before now my boats were small enough to
just store upside down on the dock for the winter.

Someone told me it I should put the back up on blocks to take the load off
the tires, so I have done that. How about the front. Must that be
propped up also, or is the crank thing okay?

The guy I bought it from lubed everything last April. The trailer has
only been in the water twice since then. Does it need any maintenance?

Thanks much

I jack up the boat trailer and put blocks at three points... frame near each
wheek (single axle) and near where the tongue joins the trailer body.
This relieves the springs and wheels plus the 'tongue jack' for our long 6
or 7 month layup.
If our boating season was longer and the layup shorter, I might just move
the trailer around on occasion. (if not burried under ice & snow)

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Wayne.B wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 10:38:10 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

I hope you keep using it, it looks like a
nice fishing boat for the bay.

Actually Harry's previous boat, the pilot house Parker, was much
better suited to Chesapeake Bay. Except on the calmest days you don't
see many boats under 24 or 25 feet out there.


When the wind blows, Wayne's b.s. flows. On any weekend morning, there
are three to four dozen trucks with empty trailers near the launch ramp
at BP Marina, indicating guys out fishing, and at least half the slips
are empty, too. The trailerboats are for mostly 17-22' boats. When I
tried to raise you on the VHF last week, I was over on the other side of
the Bay, and for a while was in the middle of at least 40 small boats
and some larger boats, all bottom or drift fishing. Every day I've been
out in September and October, and I was out many times, there were
plenty of small boats out on the Bay.


We spent 4 weeks and
about 500 nautical miles criss crossing the Chesapeake in late
September through mid-October. There are some days when anything less
than 35 to 40 ft would be inappropriate.


There were very days in the time period you mentioned when a 35-40
footer was necessary to be safe on the water.

I think you've spent so much time on that overstuffed, old,
energy-wasting, slow-moving barge of yours, you have no idea of what fun
being out in a small boat can be.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Don White wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am have my first trailered boat; before now my boats were small enough to
just store upside down on the dock for the winter.

Someone told me it I should put the back up on blocks to take the load off
the tires, so I have done that. How about the front. Must that be
propped up also, or is the crank thing okay?

The guy I bought it from lubed everything last April. The trailer has
only been in the water twice since then. Does it need any maintenance?

Thanks much

I jack up the boat trailer and put blocks at three points... frame near each
wheek (single axle) and near where the tongue joins the trailer body.
This relieves the springs and wheels plus the 'tongue jack' for our long 6
or 7 month layup.
If our boating season was longer and the layup shorter, I might just move
the trailer around on occasion. (if not burried under ice & snow)



That's all I really do...just move the trailer back or forward on its
wheels.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

On Oct 23, 8:14 am, HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel bearings? Do
you see something like this in the centers of your wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is exposed
to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover Bearing
Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a metal cover under
the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak option in a place that could
brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or replaced the
bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so you've got a starting
point for a maintenance schedule.

- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a good look
at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean, not corroded. If
they're made with electrical tape over soldered wire joints, that's
sloppy and they should be replaced with crimped connections covered with
heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling off;
expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also. Wouldn't soldered
joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that for my invisible fence 15
years ago and they are still okay. But it is probably easier to crimp
them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the joint for
sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and file or clip them.
Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly designed tool, and they not
so easy to find. The jaws on most tools don't shape the crimp correctly as
it squeezes them, because the jaws are almost flat, with slight curves
carved into them. That's useless. At this links below, check out the tool,
and click on the picture for a closer look at what the jaws should look
like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...rimp+tool&N=50...

or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f

- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable lock or
some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and found
the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but the bigger
problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the key! When I put
the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the tire was probably flat
then also; good thing I didn't need it. Came off in 2 seconds with an
angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.

I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off the
ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by the the
suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know" whether they
have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make sure the
bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the tires are
properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are removed, I
have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels, if I
have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Neither have I. My boat and trailer sat in my driveway one year for 4
months. Now, when I hooked it up, and took it to the lake, I noticed
in the first few miles that the tires seemed to have a flat spot,
feeling like they were out of balance. It smoothed out almost
immediately.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

DUH... how big of a boat?


"Toller" wrote in message
...
I am have my first trailered boat; before now my boats were small enough to
just store upside down on the dock for the winter.

Someone told me it I should put the back up on blocks to take the load off
the tires, so I have done that. How about the front. Must that be
propped up also, or is the crank thing okay?

The guy I bought it from lubed everything last April. The trailer has
only been in the water twice since then. Does it need any maintenance?

Thanks much

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:25:24 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:


Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.

He had it all correct!
http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-112102.pdf
http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rvbrochure.pdf

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://pamandgene.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats

Contradictory to most of the "experts" here.... :-)

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 04:37:22 GMT, JoeSpareBedroom penned the following
well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

Only crimps & heat shrink
tubing are allowed in this universe, for boats & other toys that live
outdoors.

Absolutely true. This is the preferred type of butt connector:
http://tinyurl.com/3d49so


Oooh....those are even better than what I was thinking of.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Gene Kearns wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:25:24 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.

He had it all correct!
http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-112102.pdf
http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rvbrochure.pdf


I would have been very surprised if he wasn't. ;).

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

JimH wrote:
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:25:24 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.
He had it all correct!
http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-112102.pdf


What is "long term storage"?


http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rvbrochure.pdf


RV tires?




Undefined, I am sure. I store for about four months up here, maybe four
and a half, and move the trailer around. If I were ReggieReturdo,
though, I'd find some non-issue to make an issue of, and push it for all
it was worth. What else has he?

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:
JimH wrote:
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:25:24 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.
He had it all correct!
http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-112102.pdf


What is "long term storage"?


http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rvbrochure.pdf


RV tires?



Undefined, I am sure. I store for about four months up here, maybe four
and a half, and move the trailer around. If I were ReggieReturdo,
though, I'd find some non-issue to make an issue of, and push it for all
it was worth. What else has he?

Harry,
Someone asked for recommendations, I told him what I did based upon my
father recommendations. If you review this thread, you will see you are
the one who tried to make an issue of it. Heck, I really don't care
what anyone else does with their boat or trailer. You seemed to be
insulted because my father and the trailer and tire mfg'ers didn't agree
with you. As I said, I never researched the subject, I just assumned
he knew what he was talking about. While he was not always correct
about all subjects, if he pertained to a mechanical issue, he was very
rarely wrong.

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JimH wrote:
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:25:24 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.
He had it all correct!
http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-112102.pdf


What is "long term storage"?


http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rvbrochure.pdf


RV tires?



Undefined, I am sure. I store for about four months up here, maybe
four and a half, and move the trailer around. If I were ReggieReturdo,
though, I'd find some non-issue to make an issue of, and push it for
all it was worth. What else has he?

Harry,
Someone asked for recommendations, I told him what I did based upon my
father recommendations.

You don't have to rationalize yourself to me, ReggieReturdo. Using your
imaginary boat this week? Next week? The week after?

Keeping a boat/trailer over the winter...
 

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JimH wrote:
"Gene Kearns" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 09:25:24 -0400, Reginald P. Smithers III penned
the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.
He had it all correct!
http://www.yokohamatire.com/pdf/tsb-112102.pdf


What is "long term storage"?


http://www.goodyear.com/rv/pdf/rvbrochure.pdf


RV tires?



Undefined, I am sure. I store for about four months up here, maybe
four and a half, and move the trailer around. If I were
ReggieReturdo, though, I'd find some non-issue to make an issue of,
and push it for all it was worth. What else has he?

Harry,
Someone asked for recommendations, I told him what I did based upon my
father recommendations.

You don't have to rationalize yourself to me, ReggieReturdo. Using your
imaginary boat this week? Next week? The week after?

Harry,
Nope, this weekend my marina asked me if they could pull my boat and
store it on the hard, so they could move a larger boat into my slip, due
to low water. Since I am a nice guy and understood their problem, I
told them sure, no problem. They then agreed to winterize the the
engine and fresh water system for free. It is amazing how good karma
begets good karma. On the plus side, I can change my outdrive boots
this winter without paying for a haul.

You seem to have an anger management issue. What seems to be the problem?