"Reginald P. Smithers III" wrote in message
. ..

The reason I did, was
my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was emphatic that
the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the tire over the
winter, would cause the tire to become permanently unbalanced (I think
he said a "flat spot".


I think it really depends on the type of tire and it's construction. Not to
doubt your Dad, but your average, regular duty tires won't become
permanently "unbalanced" due to flat spots. Although they may take a small
temporary set, it's usually too little to notice and it goes away quickly
when driving.

High performance tires, like those on the Porsche, will develop flat spot
overnight sitting in the garage. It is very noticeable when you first start
driving and it takes several miles to "round out". These tires, unlike
regular tires, are very soft and "gummy" to permit high adhesion to the road
or track. They also don't last very long either ... 25K-30K miles is about
it.

Eisboch

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I
did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also
(based upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered
with a tarp to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation.
Both were very easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for
three or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires
don't develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers
at the distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my
dealer stores on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on
blocks and jacks, too.

Harry,

As I said, he could be wrong, but I was purchasing his boat and it was
in perfect condition so I followed his maintenance recommendations and
procedure. I not only jacked the tires off the ground, but also put a
jack under the tongue so the adjustable trailer jack was not supporting
the weight.

Whatever floats your boat. You didn't jack the tires off the
ground...you probably jacked the axles off the ground. That might work
with "solid" axles, but I'd be wary of trying it with a torsion bar axle
system, and if you jacked up the frame, the torsion axles would sag, I
would think.

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look clean,
not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over soldered
wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced with
crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that
for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But
it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the joint
for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and file or
clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly designed
tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on most tools don't
shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them, because the jaws are
almost flat, with slight curves carved into them. That's useless. At
this links below, check out the tool, and click on the picture for a
closer look at what the jaws should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but
the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the
key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the
tire was probably flat then also; good thing I didn't need it.
Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make
sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the
tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels,
if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I
did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also (based
upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered with a tarp
to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation. Both were very
easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20 yrs
old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for three
or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires don't
develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers at the
distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my dealer stores
on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on blocks and jacks, too.


Damn, I normally didn't double check my father on engineering type
recommendations, but I just did on this. It looks like not only did my
Dad recommend it, but so do Trailer Mfg'ers:

http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover or
tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do not
come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when a
trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely closed
position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the elements -
clouds do not inhibit UV rays.

"HK" wrote in message
. ..

Whatever floats your boat. You didn't jack the tires off the
ground...you probably jacked the axles off the ground.

One major advantage of leaving the trailer with the tires *on* the ground is
that in the spring you will notice that they are flat before taking the
jackstands out, only to have to jack it back up again.

Saves time.


Eisboch

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look
clean, not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over
soldered wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced
with crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that
for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But
it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the
joint for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and
file or clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a properly
designed tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on most tools
don't shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them, because the
jaws are almost flat, with slight curves carved into them. That's
useless. At this links below, check out the tool, and click on the
picture for a closer look at what the jaws should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but
the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have the
key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either, and the
tire was probably flat then also; good thing I didn't need it.
Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I make
sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and that the
tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels,
if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason I
did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also
(based upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered
with a tarp to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation.
Both were very easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for
three or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires
don't develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers
at the distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my
dealer stores on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on
blocks and jacks, too.


Damn, I normally didn't double check my father on engineering type
recommendations, but I just did on this. It looks like not only did my
Dad recommend it, but so do Trailer Mfg'ers:

http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover or
tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do not
come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when a
trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely closed
position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the elements -
clouds do not inhibit UV rays.




Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up your
tires.

HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it is
exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not a
metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look
clean, not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over
soldered wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced
with crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did that
for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still okay. But
it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the
joint for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and
file or clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a
properly designed tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on
most tools don't shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them,
because the jaws are almost flat, with slight curves carved into
them. That's useless. At this links below, check out the tool, and
click on the picture for a closer look at what the jaws should
look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a cable
lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked and
found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure okay; but
the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I didn't have
the key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the key either,
and the tire was probably flat then also; good thing I didn't
need it. Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I
make sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and that
the tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own wheels,
if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason
I did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He was
emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of the
tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become permanently
unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also said the tires
would crack prematurely, where they sat on the ground. I also
(based upon his recommendations) made sure the tires were covered
with a tarp to make sure they did not dry rot from UV degradation.
Both were very easy to do and took less than 5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for
three or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires
don't develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers
at the distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my
dealer stores on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on
blocks and jacks, too.


Damn, I normally didn't double check my father on engineering type
recommendations, but I just did on this. It looks like not only did
my Dad recommend it, but so do Trailer Mfg'ers:

http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover or
tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do
not come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when a
trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely closed
position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the elements
- clouds do not inhibit UV rays.




Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up your
tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on a
trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.

Eisboch wrote:
"HK" wrote in message
. ..
Whatever floats your boat. You didn't jack the tires off the
ground...you probably jacked the axles off the ground.

One major advantage of leaving the trailer with the tires *on* the ground is
that in the spring you will notice that they are flat before taking the
jackstands out, only to have to jack it back up again.

Saves time.


Eisboch



That, too, though surprisingly the radials on my last trailer and on the
new one don't seem to lose much air. Over the winter, the last trailer's
tires lost maybe a pound over the winter. I know, because I checked the
tires when I stored the boat and when I took it out of storage.

I do try to park in areas where there is at least partial shade,
especially for the tires, and when I store for the winter, I duct tape
plastic bags on the sides of the fenders so that the tires are screened
from the sun.

I've got an old sports car sitting in a garage. It is sitting on its
Dunlop tires. The car sits for six months at a time. I have never
noticed any "flat spots" on the tires related to storage. Car spends
most of its life under a couple of sewn-together bedsheets.

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
HK wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message
...
- Did the previous owner tell you anything about the wheel
bearings? Do you see something like this in the centers of your
wheels?
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/ Or, do you just see a metal cap?

There is a plastic cover over them. Is that adequate since it
is exposed to water so little?

Unless you're talking about the soft plastic cover that can cover
Bearing Buddies, I honestly don't know. Are you sure there's not
a metal cover under the plastic thing? Plastic seems like a weak
option in a place that could brush against a curb.

If the original owner didn't mention when he last repacked or
replaced the bearings, it's probably worthwhile to get it done so
you've got a starting point for a maintenance schedule.



- Before it's too cold to work outdoors without gloves, take a
good look at all wire junctions. Make sure all splices look
clean, not corroded. If they're made with electrical tape over
soldered wire joints, that's sloppy and they should be replaced
with crimped connections covered with heat shrink tubing.

Yeah, they are all covered with electrical tape that is falling
off; expect the connections are pretty bad underneath also.
Wouldn't soldered joints covered with shrink be okay? I did
that for my invisible fence 15 years ago and they are still
okay. But it is probably easier to crimp them anyhow if that is
better.

Solder + shrink tubing isn't too bad, as long as you check the
joint for sharp edges that might puncture the shrink tubing, and
file or clip them. Crimps are easier, but you should use a
properly designed tool, and they not so easy to find. The jaws on
most tools don't shape the crimp correctly as it squeezes them,
because the jaws are almost flat, with slight curves carved into
them. That's useless. At this links below, check out the tool,
and click on the picture for a closer look at what the jaws
should look like:

http://www.panduit.com/search/produc...2D1570&Ntk=All


or:

http://tinyurl.com/3dmk8f



- Spare ti Got one? Is it secured to the trailer with a
cable lock or some other method?

That's funny actually. Before pulling the boat out I checked
and found the spare was flat. Fortunately it held pressure
okay; but the bigger problem was that it was locked on and I
didn't have the key! When I put the boat in I didn't have the
key either, and the tire was probably flat then also; good thing
I didn't need it. Came off in 2 seconds with an angle grinder.

What about propping the front up?!

Someone else chimed in on that last question.



I've never propped up any of my boat trailers so the tires are off
the ground. The trailer is designed so that the weight is borne by
the the suspension and tires, and I doubt whether the tires "know"
whether they have been sitting for two weeks or three months. I
make sure the bearings are properly packed before storage, and
that the tires are properly inflated, and that's it for the trailer.

Once the boat and engine are winterized and the batteries are
removed, I have the boat shrinkwrapped.

I do check on the boat every month. With the rig on its own
wheels, if I have to move it for some reason, it's no big deal to
do so.

Harry,

When I had a runabout, and kept the boat stored on the trailer, I
ALWAYS kept the trailer propped up using trailer jacks. The reason
I did, was my father (a mechanic engineer) told me to do it. He
was emphatic that the weight of the tires sitting on one section of
the tire over the winter, would cause the tire to become
permanently unbalanced (I think he said a "flat spot". He also
said the tires would crack prematurely, where they sat on the
ground. I also (based upon his recommendations) made sure the
tires were covered with a tarp to make sure they did not dry rot
from UV degradation. Both were very easy to do and took less than
5 minutes.

Now was he correct, heck, I don't know, but the tires were over 20
yrs old when I sold the boat and trailer.


Yes, I'm sure that all the cars sitting in dealer storage lots for
three or four months are propped up on frame jacks so their tires
don't develop flat spots. So are all the new RVs and travel trailers
at the distribution centers. And of course, the 150 boats that my
dealer stores on trailers over the winter, they're all stored on
blocks and jacks, too.


Damn, I normally didn't double check my father on engineering type
recommendations, but I just did on this. It looks like not only did
my Dad recommend it, but so do Trailer Mfg'ers:

http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover
or tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do
not come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when
a trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely
closed position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the
elements - clouds do not inhibit UV rays.




Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up your
tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on a
trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.


Gosh, I wonder what that alleged boat of yours weighs now, compared to
when it was hatched from the mold.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on a
trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.

I would like to do that, but you would be very surprised at what our water
does to stuff left in it over the winter.
I left a 400 pound sailboat in a large hoist. Come Spring it was 30' away,
turned 180 degrees (at least; maybe 900, who knows) and one hoist leg was
bent. I was happy the boat was out of the water.
My neighbors run pumps under their docks all winter so they don't get ripped
out; but I don't have electricity. I have had some boards ripped off it,
but thankfully the dock has held up.

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:


http://www.tidewatertrailers.com/wst_page10.html

Winterizing Your Trailer

1. Park in a protected area or cover your trailer with a boat cover
or tarp. Cover tires to protect from UV rays of the sun.
2. Block the wheels, or better, jack up the trailer so the tires do
not come in contact with the ground
3. Fill / repack wheel bearings via Sure Lube
Moisture can cause rust and possible bearing damage, especially when
a trailer sits idle.
4. Lubricate moving parts such as roller bushings, winches and other
rolling parts with lightweight household oil.
5. Tighten loose nuts and bolts.

6. Block the tongue and crank the tongue jack to the completely
closed position.

http://www.discoverboating.com/resou...cle.aspx?id=93

Also

Store boat in a garage or other temperature controlled facility if
possible. If not, cover the boat with shrink-wrap or a large tarp.
If your boat is stored on a trailer, block the wheels so they are off
the ground and loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.
Store your inflatables away from rodents, who love to eat hypalon and
PVC fabrics. Also, do not leave the inflatable exposed to the
elements - clouds do not inhibit UV rays.




Well, Reggies, if and when you ever have a boat, you can block up your
tires.

I sold my runabout many years ago, and I don't keep my boat stored on a
trailer, it says in the water unless I have it hauled for maintenance.


Harry,

I remembered one of the other reasons my father recommended jacking the
trailer off so the tires did not sit on the ground. Since I didn't
check the air pressure of the tires during the winter, he said it was
common for the tires to become low in pressure, with would cause
additional stress on the sideways, and cause the sidewalls to crack
prematurely. I had a tank of air I would bring up in the spring to fill
the tires before the first time I used it. You have stated many times,
that you don't keep your boats for more than a few years (after only
using them for very few hours), so it really isn't important for you.

But the original poster was wondering what the recommendation of the
experts are, here is another one who recommends jacking the tires off
the ground.

http://www.maxrules.com/storeit.html