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Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good
season. Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to be solid and I am pleased with the boat. However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts. The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because of the flexing. During any kind of chop, the bimini oscillates port and starboard, and causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull attach points. The bimini is a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward). Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show where the bimini attaches: http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of the windshield. Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do. http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif Getting rid of the bimini is not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun here in the south. Suggestions appreciated. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Bottom of page:
http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/bimtop6.html JR rbstern wrote: Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good season. Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to be solid and I am pleased with the boat. However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts. The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because of the flexing. During any kind of chop, the bimini oscillates port and starboard, and causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull attach points. The bimini is a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward). Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show where the bimini attaches: http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of the windshield. Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do. http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif Getting rid of the bimini is not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun here in the south. Suggestions appreciated. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"rbstern" wrote in message ups.com... Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good season. Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to be solid and I am pleased with the boat. However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts. The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because of the flexing. During any kind of chop, the bimini oscillates port and starboard, and causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull attach points. The bimini is a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward). Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show where the bimini attaches: http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of the windshield. Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do. http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif Getting rid of the bimini is not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun here in the south. Suggestions appreciated. We have a 20 foot runabout and I installed the bimini myself. I attached the bimini frame to the gunnel area outside of the windshield. I then attached rubber spacers between the frame and the vertical fiberglass area running under the windshield to the gunnel. Anchor points for the fore and aft straps are attached to that same fiberglass area running under the windshield. I still get some sway in the frame (when not up or not deployed) but at least it is not flexing the windshield as in your case. As and easy fix you may want to put the bimini up (deployed) when running as the forward and aft securement straps will stop the sway (at least it does in our case.). If you want I can post link to a pic of our setup. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"JR North" wrote in message .. . Bottom of page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/bimtop6.html JR Not relevant as I am sure he does not have a radar arch on his 22 foot bowrider. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"Vic Smith" wrote in message ... On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 19:50:39 -0400, "JimH" ask wrote: "JR North" wrote in message ... Bottom of page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/bimtop6.html JR Not relevant as I am sure he does not have a radar arch on his 22 foot bowrider. Why not relevant? The lateral brace doesn't care about the arch. Probably doesn't even know it exists. --Vic Your frame is partially attached to the radar arch. The arch also prevents significant sway of the frame. ;-) |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
The Arch does nothing to prevent sway, except get in the way. The
attachments of the frame to the Arch do not affect it's stability, pro or con. Vic is right. JR JimH wrote: "Vic Smith" wrote in message ... On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 19:50:39 -0400, "JimH" ask wrote: "JR North" wrote in message m... Bottom of page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/bimtop6.html JR Not relevant as I am sure he does not have a radar arch on his 22 foot bowrider. Why not relevant? The lateral brace doesn't care about the arch. Probably doesn't even know it exists. --Vic Your frame is partially attached to the radar arch. The arch also prevents significant sway of the frame. ;-) -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"JR North" wrote in message ... The Arch does nothing to prevent sway, except get in the way. The attachments of the frame to the Arch do not affect it's stability, pro or con. Vic is right. JR Your frame is inside the confines of your radar arch. It certainly does add to the stability of the frame and prevents radical sway. Enjoy the evening JR. I am waiting for a phone call from my son on Parris Island. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 16:26:20 -0700, rbstern wrote:
there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts. The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because of the flexing. It needs more bracing, attached to something solid. I'd make an issue out of it with the dealer before the windshield frame breaks or is distorted. Any good boat canvas shop should be able to give you a quote on what is required. |
Measuiriing stretch from bending tubing was Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
JR, since you built your own bimini frame, how did you get the width
correct when bending the tubing? If I had a length of tubing and needed two bends, such as a bimini frame, and I need a height of 49" and width of 88" and the tubing was of appropriate length, where would I start the 90d bends? John |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
On Aug 13, 11:06 pm, "Midlant" wrote:
JR, since you built your own bimini frame, how did you get the width correct when bending the tubing? If I had a length of tubing and needed two bends, such as a bimini frame, and I need a height of 49" and width of 88" and the tubing was of appropriate length, where would I start the 90d bends? John John- Any chance you can start a separate thread so I can continue to receive responses under the original title? Thanks! JR, my boat doesn't have as many attach point options as your boat. if there was a nearby fixture or railing for an easy brace point, I'd use it. I'm going to have to add something. Jim, when deployed (with further bracing action from the forward straps) the oscillating is cut down somewhat, but it is still pretty hard on the windshield. Wayne, the dealer's service department is proving to be fairly marginal. They had a lot of trouble getting the 20 hour service and a very simple warranty punch list right. I don't know that I'd trust them with this issue, either as advisors or as implementers. |
Measuiriing stretch from bending tubing was Need some helpstabilizing a bimini top
Go back to the link, and start at the beginning of the series. All your
Q's answered. JR Midlant wrote: JR, since you built your own bimini frame, how did you get the width correct when bending the tubing? If I had a length of tubing and needed two bends, such as a bimini frame, and I need a height of 49" and width of 88" and the tubing was of appropriate length, where would I start the 90d bends? John -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Thank you, I will. Content and secure in the knowledge that the Lateral
Brace is the ONLY (read O-N-L-Y) thing stabilizing the frame laterally. "It serves to prevent the Bimini Frame from occillating side to side, and banging against the Arch." JR here's hoping your boy is on top of everything. JimH wrote: "JR North" wrote in message ... The Arch does nothing to prevent sway, except get in the way. The attachments of the frame to the Arch do not affect it's stability, pro or con. Vic is right. JR Your frame is inside the confines of your radar arch. It certainly does add to the stability of the frame and prevents radical sway. Enjoy the evening JR. I am waiting for a phone call from my son on Parris Island. -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
There's nothing that says it will be easy. Get creative and add a hard
point that will work for mounting a brace. West Marine catalog-bimini and railing fittings. I'm SURE there is something there that will work. Before I built my new frame, I used to stabilize the lateral sway of the old frame with a simple tie-off of line from one corner of the frame to a low point. Worked well. JR wrote: JR, my boat doesn't have as many attach point options as your boat. if there was a nearby fixture or railing for an easy brace point, I'd use it. I'm going to have to add something. -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Move your attachment points to the boat and off the windshield. You may
have enough height with you currrent frame to do that. Keep in mind that you don't need it to be much taller than 6'6" from the boat floor inside. The longer the frame the more it will sway. "rbstern" wrote in message ups.com... Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good season. Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to be solid and I am pleased with the boat. However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts. The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because of the flexing. During any kind of chop, the bimini oscillates port and starboard, and causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull attach points. The bimini is a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward). Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show where the bimini attaches: http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of the windshield. Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do. http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif Getting rid of the bimini is not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun here in the south. Suggestions appreciated. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
|
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:00:46 -0700, wrote: Wayne, the dealer's service department is proving to be fairly marginal. They had a lot of trouble getting the 20 hour service and a very simple warranty punch list right. I don't know that I'd trust them with this issue, either as advisors or as implementers. As long as you are prepared to pay for it yourself, I'd just find a good boat canvas shop then and let them take care of it. They'll know how to fix it but it may be a do over. This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
HK wrote:
Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:00:46 -0700, wrote: Wayne, the dealer's service department is proving to be fairly marginal. They had a lot of trouble getting the 20 hour service and a very simple warranty punch list right. I don't know that I'd trust them with this issue, either as advisors or as implementers. As long as you are prepared to pay for it yourself, I'd just find a good boat canvas shop then and let them take care of it. They'll know how to fix it but it may be a do over. This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d Sure it doesn't wobble. It never sees the water. It also looks like it wasn't constructed very well or it's not installed correctly. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
On Aug 14, 2:42 pm, HK wrote:
Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:00:46 -0700, wrote: Wayne, the dealer's service department is proving to be fairly marginal. They had a lot of trouble getting the 20 hour service and a very simple warranty punch list right. I don't know that I'd trust them with this issue, either as advisors or as implementers. As long as you are prepared to pay for it yourself, I'd just find a good boat canvas shop then and let them take care of it. They'll know how to fix it but it may be a do over. This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d The bimini in the picture (your boat?) is not designed to be stowed in an upright position. So instead of two hard attach points on each side, there is only the center point, with the tension provided by four adjustable straps, probably counteracting the lateral forces. When I put a lot of pressure on the front straps (bimini deployed), it does cut down on the oscillating quite a bit. Not entirely to my satisfaction, but much better than when the bimini is stowed. Another two straps leading to the back would probably cut it further still, but that's not a desirable solution. Too much docking, swimming and water sports from that part of the boat to want another pair of straps. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
On Aug 14, 8:09 am, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
Move your attachment points to the boat and off the windshield. You may have enough height with you currrent frame to do that. Keep in mind that you don't need it to be much taller than 6'6" from the boat floor inside. The longer the frame the more it will sway. Probably the best choice. Just need to do it neatly. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
wrote in message ups.com... On Aug 14, 8:09 am, "jamesgangnc" wrote: Move your attachment points to the boat and off the windshield. You may have enough height with you currrent frame to do that. Keep in mind that you don't need it to be much taller than 6'6" from the boat floor inside. The longer the frame the more it will sway. Probably the best choice. Just need to do it neatly. My top snaps to the top of the windshield and has a zippered door at the walk through. Only have straps to the back. About the back edge of the top is the distance back. The 2nd from the left in the lower pictures is the type top. http://www.northriverboats.com/seahawk_21.html |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:42:57 -0400, HK wrote:
This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d For fishing a center console I still prefer a large T-top. What's the point if you can't walk a fish around the boat? |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"HK" wrote in message . .. Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:00:46 -0700, wrote: Wayne, the dealer's service department is proving to be fairly marginal. They had a lot of trouble getting the 20 hour service and a very simple warranty punch list right. I don't know that I'd trust them with this issue, either as advisors or as implementers. As long as you are prepared to pay for it yourself, I'd just find a good boat canvas shop then and let them take care of it. They'll know how to fix it but it may be a do over. This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d Maybe it's the camera angle but from the picture it appears that the top doesn't extend over the chairs. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Wayne.B wrote:
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:42:57 -0400, HK wrote: This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d For fishing a center console I still prefer a large T-top. What's the point if you can't walk a fish around the boat? Yes, indeed, that's something I've had to do twice in 50+ years of sal****er fishing, and its at the top of the list of techniques on 54' Bertrams, too. I don't like tee-tops. Never have. First, they're always there, even when you don't want them there, second, they're a constant windage problem on the water, third, they act like drogues when you're trailering, fourth, they're a pain in the ass when you're trying to put on a full boat cover, fifth, they increase rocking motion on smaller boats, and so forth and so on. But I'm sure they have a lot of appeal to the floating Winnebago crowd. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
D.Duck wrote:
"HK" wrote in message . .. Wayne.B wrote: On Mon, 13 Aug 2007 21:00:46 -0700, wrote: Wayne, the dealer's service department is proving to be fairly marginal. They had a lot of trouble getting the 20 hour service and a very simple warranty punch list right. I don't know that I'd trust them with this issue, either as advisors or as implementers. As long as you are prepared to pay for it yourself, I'd just find a good boat canvas shop then and let them take care of it. They'll know how to fix it but it may be a do over. This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d Maybe it's the camera angle but from the picture it appears that the top doesn't extend over the chairs. It does look that way, but it's not as pronounced when on board. Besides, I have the seats pushed way back for access to the center console. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
HK wrote: This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d I thought CC always used T Tops so you can easily walk around the boat following the fish. Doesn't a bimini negate the benefit of having a CC? |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"HK" wrote in message . .. Wayne.B wrote: On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:42:57 -0400, HK wrote: This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d For fishing a center console I still prefer a large T-top. What's the point if you can't walk a fish around the boat? Yes, indeed, that's something I've had to do twice in 50+ years of sal****er fishing, and its at the top of the list of techniques on 54' Bertrams, too. I don't like tee-tops. Never have. First, they're always there, even when you don't want them there, second, they're a constant windage problem on the water, third, they act like drogues when you're trailering, fourth, they're a pain in the ass when you're trying to put on a full boat cover, fifth, they increase rocking motion on smaller boats, and so forth and so on. Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Eisboch wrote:
"HK" wrote in message . .. Wayne.B wrote: On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:42:57 -0400, HK wrote: This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d For fishing a center console I still prefer a large T-top. What's the point if you can't walk a fish around the boat? Yes, indeed, that's something I've had to do twice in 50+ years of sal****er fishing, and its at the top of the list of techniques on 54' Bertrams, too. I don't like tee-tops. Never have. First, they're always there, even when you don't want them there, second, they're a constant windage problem on the water, third, they act like drogues when you're trailering, fourth, they're a pain in the ass when you're trying to put on a full boat cover, fifth, they increase rocking motion on smaller boats, and so forth and so on. Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch Interesting idea, but I wonder if it is rigid enough for a tee-top. Those tubes look pretty thin. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch Interesting idea, but I wonder if it is rigid enough for a tee-top. Those tubes look pretty thin. The write-up claims that unlike a regular bimini, the tee-top can be left up for high speed running (tested to 68 mph). Downside is you can't stand on it (comparing it to a hard top). Tubing is available in either aluminum or stainless. Eisboch |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: "HK" wrote in message . .. Wayne.B wrote: On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:42:57 -0400, HK wrote: This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d For fishing a center console I still prefer a large T-top. What's the point if you can't walk a fish around the boat? Yes, indeed, that's something I've had to do twice in 50+ years of sal****er fishing, and its at the top of the list of techniques on 54' Bertrams, too. I don't like tee-tops. Never have. First, they're always there, even when you don't want them there, second, they're a constant windage problem on the water, third, they act like drogues when you're trailering, fourth, they're a pain in the ass when you're trying to put on a full boat cover, fifth, they increase rocking motion on smaller boats, and so forth and so on. Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch Interesting idea, but I wonder if it is rigid enough for a tee-top. Those tubes look pretty thin. Check out the first two photos on this page ... Shows the bimiteetop installed on your boat.(Click to enlarge)... Eisboch |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"Eisboch" wrote in message ... "HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: "HK" wrote in message . .. Wayne.B wrote: On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:42:57 -0400, HK wrote: This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d For fishing a center console I still prefer a large T-top. What's the point if you can't walk a fish around the boat? Yes, indeed, that's something I've had to do twice in 50+ years of sal****er fishing, and its at the top of the list of techniques on 54' Bertrams, too. I don't like tee-tops. Never have. First, they're always there, even when you don't want them there, second, they're a constant windage problem on the water, third, they act like drogues when you're trailering, fourth, they're a pain in the ass when you're trying to put on a full boat cover, fifth, they increase rocking motion on smaller boats, and so forth and so on. Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch Interesting idea, but I wonder if it is rigid enough for a tee-top. Those tubes look pretty thin. Check out the first two photos on this page ... Shows the bimiteetop installed on your boat.(Click to enlarge)... Eisboch Forgot the link ... http://www.bimiteetop.com/photos.html# Eisboch |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Eisboch wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch Interesting idea, but I wonder if it is rigid enough for a tee-top. Those tubes look pretty thin. The write-up claims that unlike a regular bimini, the tee-top can be left up for high speed running (tested to 68 mph). Downside is you can't stand on it (comparing it to a hard top). Tubing is available in either aluminum or stainless. Eisboch As I said, it is an interesting idea...but not one that interests me. My new boat has a 6' long perfectly flat deck forward of the center console for flyfishing, which is all the room I need. No need to "walk around the boat" chasing a bonefish, because, well, we don't have any bonefish up here. If I want to liveline or troll or bottom fish, I can do that from the stern without having to "walk" a fish around the boat. It's not a technique that occurs around here that often. Most fish can be controlled from the stern and released near the stern. If I feel like sightfishing or casting, I can do that from the front of the boat. The bimini is there simply to fend off the sun on those really hot sunny days when we're drift fishing or anchored. Most of the time it will be folded flat, out of the way. Like you and a couple of others here, I've had a lot of experience in boats and with a wide variety of boats. What I want in a small fishing boat has evolved over these many years. This time around, I wanted a smallish but deep vee center console, high quality but minimalist in features (stuff I don't need that requires maintenance). There are a kazillion boat dealers within 50 miles of where I am right now, so my choices were virtually unlimited. I picked the boat I did for a lot of reasons, all based upon what *I* wanted, as opposed to what to what some boat manufacturers think I need or, ever sillier, what some of the landlocked "boaters" here read somewhere. Oh...I cut a 2-1/4" hole in a non-structural part of my Parker to install an accessory. The circle I cut out is 7/16" thick, and consists of gelcoat and layer after layer of glass cloth and resin. No filler, no balsa, no foam, no crap. Gelcoat on the outside where you can see it, and on the inside, where you can't see it unless you cut a hole. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Eisboch wrote:
"Eisboch" wrote in message ... "HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: "HK" wrote in message . .. Wayne.B wrote: On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:42:57 -0400, HK wrote: This sort of bimini doesn't wobble because it is properly supported. http://tinyurl.com/3bqs5d For fishing a center console I still prefer a large T-top. What's the point if you can't walk a fish around the boat? Yes, indeed, that's something I've had to do twice in 50+ years of sal****er fishing, and its at the top of the list of techniques on 54' Bertrams, too. I don't like tee-tops. Never have. First, they're always there, even when you don't want them there, second, they're a constant windage problem on the water, third, they act like drogues when you're trailering, fourth, they're a pain in the ass when you're trying to put on a full boat cover, fifth, they increase rocking motion on smaller boats, and so forth and so on. Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch Interesting idea, but I wonder if it is rigid enough for a tee-top. Those tubes look pretty thin. Check out the first two photos on this page ... Shows the bimiteetop installed on your boat.(Click to enlarge)... Eisboch Forgot the link ... http://www.bimiteetop.com/photos.html# Eisboch I like the Norwegian fishing boat at the bottom center. Great lines. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch Interesting idea, but I wonder if it is rigid enough for a tee-top. Those tubes look pretty thin. The write-up claims that unlike a regular bimini, the tee-top can be left up for high speed running (tested to 68 mph). Downside is you can't stand on it (comparing it to a hard top). Tubing is available in either aluminum or stainless. Eisboch As I said, it is an interesting idea...but not one that interests me. My new boat has a 6' long perfectly flat deck forward of the center console for flyfishing, which is all the room I need. No need to "walk around the boat" chasing a bonefish, because, well, we don't have any bonefish up here. If I want to liveline or troll or bottom fish, I can do that from the stern without having to "walk" a fish around the boat. It's not a technique that occurs around here that often. Most fish can be controlled from the stern and released near the stern. If I feel like sightfishing or casting, I can do that from the front of the boat. The bimini is there simply to fend off the sun on those really hot sunny days when we're drift fishing or anchored. Most of the time it will be folded flat, out of the way. Like you and a couple of others here, I've had a lot of experience in boats and with a wide variety of boats. What I want in a small fishing boat has evolved over these many years. This time around, I wanted a smallish but deep vee center console, high quality but minimalist in features (stuff I don't need that requires maintenance). There are a kazillion boat dealers within 50 miles of where I am right now, so my choices were virtually unlimited. I picked the boat I did for a lot of reasons, all based upon what *I* wanted, as opposed to what to what some boat manufacturers think I need or, ever sillier, what some of the landlocked "boaters" here read somewhere. Oh...I cut a 2-1/4" hole in a non-structural part of my Parker to install an accessory. The circle I cut out is 7/16" thick, and consists of gelcoat and layer after layer of glass cloth and resin. No filler, no balsa, no foam, no crap. Gelcoat on the outside where you can see it, and on the inside, where you can't see it unless you cut a hole. I hear you, and a Parker is indeed a well built boat. I just wasn't sure if you were aware of other options for the bimini. BTW though ... I may be wrong, but if your intention is to use the forward section of the boat for fly-fishing ... isn't the bimini installed backwards? Seems to me it should fold up aft, rather than forward, leaving the area forward of the console clear. The way the braces are set up in your installation, I think it's designed to fold forward. Just a thought. Eisboch |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Eisboch wrote:
"HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: "HK" wrote in message ... Eisboch wrote: Check this out: http://www.bimiteetop.com/ Eisboch Interesting idea, but I wonder if it is rigid enough for a tee-top. Those tubes look pretty thin. The write-up claims that unlike a regular bimini, the tee-top can be left up for high speed running (tested to 68 mph). Downside is you can't stand on it (comparing it to a hard top). Tubing is available in either aluminum or stainless. Eisboch As I said, it is an interesting idea...but not one that interests me. My new boat has a 6' long perfectly flat deck forward of the center console for flyfishing, which is all the room I need. No need to "walk around the boat" chasing a bonefish, because, well, we don't have any bonefish up here. If I want to liveline or troll or bottom fish, I can do that from the stern without having to "walk" a fish around the boat. It's not a technique that occurs around here that often. Most fish can be controlled from the stern and released near the stern. If I feel like sightfishing or casting, I can do that from the front of the boat. The bimini is there simply to fend off the sun on those really hot sunny days when we're drift fishing or anchored. Most of the time it will be folded flat, out of the way. Like you and a couple of others here, I've had a lot of experience in boats and with a wide variety of boats. What I want in a small fishing boat has evolved over these many years. This time around, I wanted a smallish but deep vee center console, high quality but minimalist in features (stuff I don't need that requires maintenance). There are a kazillion boat dealers within 50 miles of where I am right now, so my choices were virtually unlimited. I picked the boat I did for a lot of reasons, all based upon what *I* wanted, as opposed to what to what some boat manufacturers think I need or, ever sillier, what some of the landlocked "boaters" here read somewhere. Oh...I cut a 2-1/4" hole in a non-structural part of my Parker to install an accessory. The circle I cut out is 7/16" thick, and consists of gelcoat and layer after layer of glass cloth and resin. No filler, no balsa, no foam, no crap. Gelcoat on the outside where you can see it, and on the inside, where you can't see it unless you cut a hole. I hear you, and a Parker is indeed a well built boat. I just wasn't sure if you were aware of other options for the bimini. BTW though ... I may be wrong, but if your intention is to use the forward section of the boat for fly-fishing ... isn't the bimini installed backwards? Seems to me it should fold up aft, rather than forward, leaving the area forward of the console clear. The way the braces are set up in your installation, I think it's designed to fold forward. Just a thought. Eisboch It folds flat and rests on the small forward deck. It has a cover. It won't be in my way; I went flyfishing a few weeks ago with a fellow who has the same set up. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 06:22:08 -0400, HK wrote:
But I'm sure they have a lot of appeal to the floating Winnebago crowd. That's just my summer job. :-) |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
Wayne.B wrote:
On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 06:22:08 -0400, HK wrote: But I'm sure they have a lot of appeal to the floating Winnebago crowd. That's just my summer job. :-) Just so you know I am consistent, I have no use for wheel-based RV condos, either. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
On Wed, 15 Aug 2007 19:28:33 -0400, HK wrote:
Just so you know I am consistent, I have no use for wheel-based RV condos, either. Well, we sort of agree on that one. Conceptually I can see the potential appeal, but the reality looks quite different, at least in south Florida. Almost all of the RV parks that I see are so jammed that they look like parking lots, very unappealing for the most part. There are a few exceptions but not that many. The difference between rolling and floating is that the "wheel RVs" are highly restricted in where they can park. Not true on a liveaboard boat although there are those who would like fewer anchorages. |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
"rbstern" wrote in message ups.com... Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good season. Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to be solid and I am pleased with the boat. However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts. The bimini top: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because of the flexing. During any kind of chop, the bimini oscillates port and starboard, and causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull attach points. The bimini is a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward). Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show where the bimini attaches: http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of the windshield. Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do. http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif Getting rid of the bimini is not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun here in the south. Suggestions appreciated. Good thread! I have been shopping for a bimini for my 19 footer. I have mount points in the same position as you do on the windshield. I have two options - windshield mount or using longer tubes and mounting it directly to the boat. I do not know which would be the best way to attach the bimini. The problem that I have is that to mount it outside of the windshield, the ledge is less than an inch wide horizontally. Question - what does the actual mount for bimini look like? How wide are the actual mounts? Can they be mounted in off positions, such as on a 45 degree angle on the outside of the boat? |
Need some help stabilizing a bimini top
On Aug 20, 3:55 pm, "john" wrote:
"rbstern" wrote in message ups.com... Hello rec.boaters. Hope all is well and everyone is having a good season. Bought a Larson 22' bowrider earlier this year and had a very enjoyable summer of cruising and water sports with family and friends. Couple of small warranty issues, but overall she proved to be solid and I am pleased with the boat. However, there is one thing about the boat that is driving me nuts. Thebiminitop: How it is attached to the boat, how much it flexes the windshield at the attach points, and how much noise it makes because of the flexing. During any kind of chop, thebiminioscillates port and starboard, and causes the windshield sides to flex very noticably. It's flexing enough that I am concerned about gelcoat damage at the windshield/hull attach points. Thebiminiis a typical stainless tube structure. The base fixtures are well attached to the gunnel (aft) and windshield frame (forward). Here's a stock photo, and I've added a crude wireframe diagram to show where thebiminiattaches: http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim1.gif When deployed, two straps attach to anchor points at the corners of the windshield. Here's another stock photo showing the detail just inside the windshield. The gunnel is several inches wide. The green lines represent what I think is a logical place to put some type of support post. I think it would look bad, breaking up the clean lines of the gunnel, but I am at a loss for what else to do. http://www.zjstech.net/larson/larsonbim2.gif Getting rid of thebiminiis not an option. Too much 12 o'clock sun here in the south. Suggestions appreciated. Good thread! I have been shopping for abiminifor my 19 footer. I have mount points in the same position as you do on the windshield. I have two options - windshield mount or using longer tubes and mounting it directly to the boat. I do not know which would be the best way to attach thebimini. The problem that I have is that to mount it outside of the windshield, the ledge is less than an inch wide horizontally. Question - what does the actual mount forbiminilook like? How wide are the actual mounts? Can they be mounted in off positions, such as on a 45 degree angle on the outside of the boat?- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - If you are still looking for a Bimini top, that's my specialty. Visit our site http://www.BiminiTops.biz or www.BiminiTops.biz or give me a call 1-888-458-BOAT I can look it up for you. |
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