Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

After many trips on rental boats, we finally purchased a used Pamlico
160T, which was our favorite of all of the boats that we rented. The
Phase3 seats are sure comfy. We plan to use it on flat water (lakes)
and calm rivers.

Anyhow, now that I have it, I need a better way to carry it. I got it
home using some of those pool noodles and cam buckle straps, but want
to build something better. I'd appreciate it if anybody could take a
look at my ideas and give me feedback.

http://twowheels.us/blog/?p=25

Thanks!

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

On Mon, 30 Jul 2007 17:14:09 -0700, Rex Kerr
wrote:

After many trips on rental boats, we finally purchased a used Pamlico
160T, which was our favorite of all of the boats that we rented. The
Phase3 seats are sure comfy. We plan to use it on flat water (lakes)
and calm rivers.

Anyhow, now that I have it, I need a better way to carry it. I got it
home using some of those pool noodles and cam buckle straps, but want
to build something better. I'd appreciate it if anybody could take a
look at my ideas and give me feedback.

http://twowheels.us/blog/?p=25

Thanks!

I think you could get the same result using a lot less wood if you
just drilled your 2 long peices to acept U bolts that would go around
the subaru bars.

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

On Jul 30, 6:28 pm, (Drew Dalgleish)
wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jul 2007 17:14:09 -0700, Rex Kerr
wrote:

After many trips on rental boats, we finally purchased a used Pamlico
160T, which was our favorite of all of the boats that we rented. The
Phase3 seats are sure comfy. We plan to use it on flat water (lakes)
and calm rivers.

Anyhow, now that I have it, I need a better way to carry it. I got it
home using some of those pool noodles and cam buckle straps, but want
to build something better. I'd appreciate it if anybody could take a
look at my ideas and give me feedback.

http://twowheels.us/blog/?p=25

Thanks!

I think you could get the same result using a lot less wood if you
just drilled your 2 long peices to acept U bolts that would go around
the subaru bars.

Interesting idea, though I'm not sure that they'd be spaced far
enough. The boat is wide, at 33". I'd have to measure the roof
rack. Good idea though... I'll think about it.

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

Per Rex Kerr:
http://twowheels.us/blog/?p=25

You mentioned oil-canning.

What about carrying it upside-down, directly on the Subaru's
bars?
--
PeteCresswell

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

On Jul 31, 8:10 am, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per Rex Kerr:

http://twowheels.us/blog/?p=25

You mentioned oil-canning.

What about carrying it upside-down, directly on the Subaru's
bars?
--
PeteCresswell

This is how we move our kayaks on my GF's subaru legacy wagon. We can
get 2 on there if we angle one onto the other, but it's not the
easiest setup. Tossing one onto the rack and strapping it down,
however, takes about a minute and is easy as pie. We've done ~300
mile (each way) trips like this, at highway speeds and then @ 50mph on
the dirt logging roads, without problems. I have a friend who does
the same with a large canoe on top of his SUV, and it's just as easy
for him.

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

On Jul 31, 5:10 am, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
What about carrying it upside-down, directly on the Subaru's
bars?

I tried that, but the seats stuck down enough to put pressure onto the
roof of the car. I'd have to somehow strap them into the down
position, which can be done, but then it brings up the issue that
since it's a long open cockpit, the boat is only supported by the edge
of the cockpit, which isn't very rigid either. A smaller cockpit on a
single would have more deck area and that'd probably work. Maybe
something like my current idea, but with no straps in the center,
which would lift the boat higher to give clearance for the seats, and
support the boat by its deck.

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

Per :
Tossing one onto the rack and strapping it down,
however, takes about a minute and is easy as pie. We've done ~300
mile (each way) trips like this, at highway speeds and then @ 50mph on
the dirt logging roads, without problems.

That takes care of my afterthought then - which was around the
strength of the Subie's racks themselves.
--
PeteCresswell

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

Per Rex Kerr:
Maybe
something like my current idea, but with no straps in the center,
which would lift the boat higher to give clearance for the seats, and
support the boat by its deck.

Maybe somebody could comment on the use of J-Racks on a Subaru.

I know you're biased towards building your own... but that's a
*lot* of wood up there and I would expect it to take it's toll in
gas mileage when you're just driving around without anything else
up there.
--
PeteCresswell

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

On Jul 31, 1:14 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per Rex Kerr:

Maybe
something like my current idea, but with no straps in the center,
which would lift the boat higher to give clearance for the seats, and
support the boat by its deck.

Maybe somebody could comment on the use of J-Racks on a Subaru.

I can comment on J-racks! They are a PITA to load boats on and off!!
Especially long heavy boats like plastic sea kayaks. Pretty much have
to lift the boat up and set it in the J-rack, cause if you try to
slide it in from the end, the damn J-racks rotate on the bar and get
all out of proper alignment!

John Kuthe...

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

"John Kuthe" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 31, 1:14 pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per Rex Kerr:

Maybe
something like my current idea, but with no straps in the center,
which would lift the boat higher to give clearance for the seats, and
support the boat by its deck.

Maybe somebody could comment on the use of J-Racks on a Subaru.

I can comment on J-racks! They are a PITA to load boats on and off!!
Especially long heavy boats like plastic sea kayaks. Pretty much have
to lift the boat up and set it in the J-rack, cause if you try to
slide it in from the end, the damn J-racks rotate on the bar and get
all out of proper alignment!

John Kuthe...


Not a problem with my Volkswagen Jetta. The CRV's a little worse, have to
open a door to step up, but basically put one end in first, then hoist the
other. Some swearing is (sometimes) involved. My kayak's a 55 lb 14.5 foot
Perception. The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led
to permanent damage thus far.

--
www.mattclara.com

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The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led
to permanent damage thus far.

I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was
supposed to prevent that!

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

On Aug 1, 12:37 pm, Rex Kerr wrote:
The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led
to permanent damage thus far.

I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was
supposed to prevent that!

I have little respect for Yakima ever since they went from their
original kayak stackers (straight bars, $40 a pair) to those
ridiculous overpriced ($70 a pair) U-shaped things for people that do
not know how to tie a trucker's hitch and loop it over the top of a
straight bar to hold stacked kayaks when tying them down.

John Kuthe...

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

On Aug 1, 2:27 pm, John Kuthe wrote:
I have little respect for Yakima ever since they went from their
original kayak stackers (straight bars, $40 a pair) to those
ridiculous overpriced ($70 a pair) U-shaped things for people that do
not know how to tie a trucker's hitch and loop it over the top of a
straight bar to hold stacked kayaks when tying them down.

John, it's safe to back into the REI. Yakima abandoned the U-shaped
things about 6 years ago. The stackers are vertical bars now. Bad news
is they now cost $100 :-(

I'm afraid I got lost in your comment about trucker's hitches and
loops.

Steve

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

Funny thing about a trucker's hitch... When I bought my kayak last
weekend I was tying it on top of my car and couldn't for the life of
me seem to figure out which way that last loop went. I've done so
many of those in my life (my dad drives a truck and taught me as a
child) that I was quite embarassed when the guy who I bought it from
came over to help. Thing is... next time I tried, it worked the first
time. Brain fart I guess.

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

"Rex Kerr" wrote in message
oups.com...
The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led
to permanent damage thus far.

I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was
supposed to prevent that!

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

"Rex Kerr" wrote in message
oups.com...
The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led
to permanent damage thus far.

I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was
supposed to prevent that!


You're still strapping it to something, in this case, two things, the front
and back j racks. Cinch it down tight enough, and the bottom beer cans
where it meets the racks. I suppose I could let off some, but I like my
kayak to not move when I try to wiggle it.

--
www.mattclara.com

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

"Matt Clara" wrote in message
...
"Rex Kerr" wrote in message
oups.com...
The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led
to permanent damage thus far.

I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was
supposed to prevent that!


You're still strapping it to something, in this case, two things, the
front and back j racks. Cinch it down tight enough, and the bottom beer
cans where it meets the racks. I suppose I could let off some, but I like
my kayak to not move when I try to wiggle it.



In regards to your homebrew setup, then, I suppose it means four or five
straps, such as your image shows, would stop the beer canning of the kayak.

One added thing I'll say about homebrew, your insurance won't likely cover
it if something goes wrong.

--
www.mattclara.com

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

John Kuthe wrote:
On Aug 1, 12:37 pm, Rex Kerr wrote:
The J racks do dent the bottom of the kayak, but it hasn't led
to permanent damage thus far.
I thought that the whole point of those J racks was that it was
supposed to prevent that!

I have little respect for Yakima ever since they went from their
original kayak stackers (straight bars, $40 a pair) to those
ridiculous overpriced ($70 a pair) U-shaped things for people that do
not know how to tie a trucker's hitch and loop it over the top of a
straight bar to hold stacked kayaks when tying them down.

Actually they stopped making the U's and went to straight bars (there's
a joke there somewhere) some time ago.

Steve - still using U shaped stackers and a trucker's hitch.

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

On Aug 1, 3:04 pm, " wrote:
On Aug 1, 2:27 pm, John Kuthe wrote:

I have little respect for Yakima ever since they went from their
original kayak stackers (straight bars, $40 a pair) to those
ridiculous overpriced ($70 a pair) U-shaped things for people that do
not know how to tie a trucker's hitch and loop it over the top of a
straight bar to hold stacked kayaks when tying them down.

John, it's safe to back into the REI. Yakima abandoned the U-shaped
things about 6 years ago. The stackers are vertical bars now. Bad news
is they now cost $100 :-(

I have a pair of the original $40 a par Yakima stackers, and I guard
them very jealously. They rock, do everything a pair of stackers
should do.

I'm gonna have to replace my crossbars pretty soon. Water got in, and
they are rusting at the ends. Gonna have to cut 'em and pull 'em
through the little cast aluminum thingies that hold them to the
towers! Hee hee! I'd say 13 years is a pretty good lifespan. Maybe
I'll move up to the 88 inchers! My 66" bars have almost always been
long enough, but... ;-)

John Kuthe...

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

Per John Kuthe:
I'm gonna have to replace my crossbars pretty soon. Water got in, and
they are rusting at the ends.

Which begs a question: anybody know if SS bar tubes are
available?

On the fact of it, seems pretty simple: SS tubing cut to
length...

Maybe there's a diameter issue? (i.e. Yak's steel tubes plus the
coating they put on them might be some orphan size)
--
PeteCresswell

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

Per Matt Clara:
I suppose I could let off some, but I like my
kayak to not move when I try to wiggle it.

OTOH, speaking from surf-ski experience, if it wiggles a little
from time-to-time, much fewer people tailgate you.... -)
--
PeteCresswell

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

One added thing I'll say about homebrew, your insurance won't likely cover
it if something goes wrong.

Dang... that's a good point. In this litigation happy society, if
ANYTHING went wrong, no matter how little the homebrew design
mattered, they'd claim it was my fault. Hrm. So, buying a weaker off-
the-shelf attachment could shield one from liability. Ugh. That
almost makes me consider giving up on the idea, even though I think it
could be better.

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

I've just been in email contact with Yakima, and asked what was
the longest track and longest bar they sold. I've got Yakima racks
on two vehicles already, so now want to do an installation on a camper
roof which is ~84" wide by 190" long. The answer from Yakima was
that the longest track they sell is 60" and the longest crossbar is
78", but they suggested I check on Fleetwood, which has a 98"
crossbar. Haven't done that yet, but SS tube, if it is thick
enough and available, would be a good solution to the crossbar
problem. Yakima bars, even with plastic coating, are incredibly
slippery. SS could not be worse. Tom McCloud


On Thu, 02 Aug 2007 13:44:10 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)"
wrote:
: anybody know if SS bar tubes are available?
On the fact of it, seems pretty simple: SS tubing cut to
length...
Maybe there's a diameter issue? (i.e. Yak's steel tubes plus the
coating they put on them might be some orphan size)

Feedback on my homebrew roofrack
 

If you can find the yellow coated gas pipe, it works great in Yakima
towers, and you can cut it to any length your heart desires at a fraction of
the cost of Yakima bars..

Carol


"John Kuthe" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Aug 1, 3:04 pm, " wrote:
On Aug 1, 2:27 pm, John Kuthe wrote:

I have little respect for Yakima ever since they went from their
original kayak stackers (straight bars, $40 a pair) to those
ridiculous overpriced ($70 a pair) U-shaped things for people that do
not know how to tie a trucker's hitch and loop it over the top of a
straight bar to hold stacked kayaks when tying them down.

John, it's safe to back into the REI. Yakima abandoned the U-shaped
things about 6 years ago. The stackers are vertical bars now. Bad news
is they now cost $100 :-(

I have a pair of the original $40 a par Yakima stackers, and I guard
them very jealously. They rock, do everything a pair of stackers
should do.

I'm gonna have to replace my crossbars pretty soon. Water got in, and
they are rusting at the ends. Gonna have to cut 'em and pull 'em
through the little cast aluminum thingies that hold them to the
towers! Hee hee! I'd say 13 years is a pretty good lifespan. Maybe
I'll move up to the 88 inchers! My 66" bars have almost always been
long enough, but... ;-)

John Kuthe...