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#1
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posted to rec.boats
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On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:00:27 -0400, HK wrote:
...one I can install in a compartment in the center console of my new boat and hardwire direct to one of the batteries. I'm not looking for a lot of power...enough to run a laptop, a small "boombox" type FM radio, et cetera. Clean power is important, but not current draw. I'd like something that isn't going to corrode out on me in a season. It won't be directly exposed to the elements. Under $100. Suggestions? Oh...if you are in my killfile, don't waste your time responding. I won't see it. Well, seeing as how your killfile is as honest as you are, here you go: http://tinyurl.com/2m9asj -- John H |
#2
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "John H." wrote in message ... On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 13:00:27 -0400, HK wrote: ...one I can install in a compartment in the center console of my new boat and hardwire direct to one of the batteries. I'm not looking for a lot of power...enough to run a laptop, a small "boombox" type FM radio, et cetera. Clean power is important, but not current draw. I'd like something that isn't going to corrode out on me in a season. It won't be directly exposed to the elements. Under $100. Suggestions? Oh...if you are in my killfile, don't waste your time responding. I won't see it. Well, seeing as how your killfile is as honest as you are, here you go: http://tinyurl.com/2m9asj -- John H He won't shop there ;) but I bought a 200W continuous / 400W peak inverter at Wal-Mart for about $25 a year ago. Plugs into the cigarette lighter receptacle. Works fine for running and charging the laptop while traveling in the truck. Has 2 outlets, so could also charge the phone and GRS radios on the trip to Alaska at the same time. As to an FM radio. For less than a $100 you can buy a nice FM/AM/CD radio. |
#3
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posted to rec.boats
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He won't shop there ;) but I bought a 200W continuous / 400W peak
inverter at Wal-Mart for about $25 a year ago. Plugs into the cigarette lighter receptacle. Which no doubt isn't rated to handle that much draw. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats
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On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 08:25:09 -0400, "Bill Kearney"
wkearney-99@hot-mail-com wrote: He won't shop there ;) but I bought a 200W continuous / 400W peak inverter at Wal-Mart for about $25 a year ago. Plugs into the cigarette lighter receptacle. Which no doubt isn't rated to handle that much draw. Check your fuse and you'll probably find that your average cigarette lighter is at least 15 amps, maybe 20. If it's 20, you should have no problem with a 200w continuous/400w peak load. 15 is probably not enough since that's 204 watts at 13.6 volts but you have to take into account inverter inefficiency so it's probably drawing more than 15 amps to supply the 200 watts. But no one says you have to actually use that much out of it. And if you use too much, you'll just blow the fuse so you know for next time. Now the problem comes when people replace the OEM fuse rating with a higher one to keep it from blowing. Steve |
#5
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() "Steve" wrote in message ... On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 08:25:09 -0400, "Bill Kearney" wkearney-99@hot-mail-com wrote: He won't shop there ;) but I bought a 200W continuous / 400W peak inverter at Wal-Mart for about $25 a year ago. Plugs into the cigarette lighter receptacle. Which no doubt isn't rated to handle that much draw. Check your fuse and you'll probably find that your average cigarette lighter is at least 15 amps, maybe 20. If it's 20, you should have no problem with a 200w continuous/400w peak load. 15 is probably not enough since that's 204 watts at 13.6 volts but you have to take into account inverter inefficiency so it's probably drawing more than 15 amps to supply the 200 watts. But no one says you have to actually use that much out of it. And if you use too much, you'll just blow the fuse so you know for next time. Now the problem comes when people replace the OEM fuse rating with a higher one to keep it from blowing. Steve Most are 20 amps and never blew a fuse in the car for the lighter, but have turned on the red light signifying overload in the inverter. |
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