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#1
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() Does anyone have experience with V/P I/O Marine engines? I have a newly rebuilt '84 Volvo Penta I/O marine 350 in my 84 Bayliner. About 10 hrs on it since the rebuild. I think / hope that it was winterized correctly- oil change, ran anti-freeze through the system, etc. . When commissioning the boat a week ago, we checked the oil before starting it. It looked OK. After running the engine for about 3 minutes, we checked the oil again and it looked like a vanilla milk shake (water in oil!). I pumped it out, fogged it, pumped that out, put in 5 qts of new oil, put the ears on, ran it again.... Same problem. No freeze plugs popped. Do you think the block is cracked? If not, can anyone tell me what potential areas I should look at to find the contamination point (water leak to block / oil)? I only spent $3K for the boat and now have about $9K into it. It's getting frustrating. |
#2
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On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 00:01:40 -0700, "
wrote: I only spent $3K for the boat and now have about $9K into it. It's getting frustrating. Well, you are stuck now. There is water in the oil and it could be anything from a head gasket to a cracked block. Did it misfire at all? Sound like one cylinder isn't firing? Any other symptoms? |
#3
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posted to rec.boats
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On Jul 11, 5:39 am, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 00:01:40 -0700, " wrote: I only spent $3K for the boat and now have about $9K into it. It's getting frustrating. Well, you are stuck now. There is water in the oil and it could be anything from a head gasket to a cracked block. Did it misfire at all? Sound like one cylinder isn't firing? Any other symptoms? agreed, and one step further. possibly a bad head. When engine was rebuilt, did the mechanics check the heads for cracks by magnaflux treatment? Regardless, not a good sign. |
#4
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posted to rec.boats
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On Jul 11, 2:01 am, " i...@viking-
logistics.com wrote: Does anyone have experience with V/P I/O Marine engines? I have a newly rebuilt '84 Volvo Penta I/O marine 350 in my 84 Bayliner. About 10 hrs on it since the rebuild. I think / hope that it was winterized correctly- oil change, ran anti-freeze through the system, etc. . When commissioning the boat a week ago, we checked the oil before starting it. It looked OK. After running the engine for about 3 minutes, we checked the oil again and it looked like a vanilla milk shake (water in oil!). I pumped it out, fogged it, pumped that out, put in 5 qts of new oil, put the ears on, ran it again.... Same problem. No freeze plugs popped. Do you think the block is cracked? If not, can anyone tell me what potential areas I should look at to find the contamination point (water leak to block / oil)? I only spent $3K for the boat and now have about $9K into it. It's getting frustrating. I may be wrong, but It doesn't sound like a block to me, but more in the head[s] and/or head gaskets. |
#5
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() " wrote in message ups.com... Does anyone have experience with V/P I/O Marine engines? I have a newly rebuilt '84 Volvo Penta I/O marine 350 in my 84 Bayliner. About 10 hrs on it since the rebuild. I think / hope that it was winterized correctly- oil change, ran anti-freeze through the system, etc. . When commissioning the boat a week ago, we checked the oil before starting it. It looked OK. After running the engine for about 3 minutes, we checked the oil again and it looked like a vanilla milk shake (water in oil!). I pumped it out, fogged it, pumped that out, put in 5 qts of new oil, put the ears on, ran it again.... Same problem. No freeze plugs popped. Do you think the block is cracked? If not, can anyone tell me what potential areas I should look at to find the contamination point (water leak to block / oil)? I only spent $3K for the boat and now have about $9K into it. It's getting frustrating. trade in time... a marina could fix it pretty cheaply with young labor. of course the end users are charged 50-80/ hour. personally i would try & trade it in ASAP. |
#6
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posted to rec.boats
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Do you think the block is cracked? If not, can anyone tell me what
potential areas I should look at to find the contamination point (water leak to block / oil)? First step, pull the plugs and examine them to see which cylinder(s) is leaking. The next step, assuming that you find a suspicious cylinder, is to pull that head, examine for cracks, and check/change the gasket. A new water leak may be almost invisible on the gasket, so look closely, especially around the problem cylinders, and hopefully you'll be able to check both sides of it. Someone else will have to give you furthur diagnostic advice pending your results. |
#7
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posted to rec.boats
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![]() " wrote in message ups.com... Does anyone have experience with V/P I/O Marine engines? I have a newly rebuilt '84 Volvo Penta I/O marine 350 in my 84 Bayliner. About 10 hrs on it since the rebuild. I think / hope that it was winterized correctly- oil change, ran anti-freeze through the system, etc. . When commissioning the boat a week ago, we checked the oil before starting it. It looked OK. After running the engine for about 3 minutes, we checked the oil again and it looked like a vanilla milk shake (water in oil!). I pumped it out, fogged it, pumped that out, put in 5 qts of new oil, put the ears on, ran it again.... Same problem. No freeze plugs popped. Do you think the block is cracked? If not, can anyone tell me what potential areas I should look at to find the contamination point (water leak to block / oil)? I only spent $3K for the boat and now have about $9K into it. It's getting frustrating. Run (don't walk) away from this thing. db |
#8
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On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 16:02:48 -0400, "D-unit" cof42_AT_earthlink.net
wrote: Run (don't walk) away from this thing. Good advice. If you are really in love with the boat you might consider repowering with a new long block but the boat is not really worth that kind of investment. |
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