Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi all,
I have a small (14 ft) wood boat that I built myself. I put a 25 HP (Suzuki 4 stroke, manual trim) outboard on it. The angle of the transom is such that the outboard is always trimmed in (even when I adjust the bracket to the most trimmed out pin). The outboard may also be a little bit high. The cavitation plate is at an angle in the water, the front is lower than the back, the front is probably level with the keel or 1/4" high, while the back is higher than the keel. What I have noticed in the water is that the boat creates a lot of spray, a big rooster tail appears behind the boat (maybe 4-6 ft behind), and the performance seems quite sluggish. I am a little confused as I expected that a trimmed in motor would not generate a rooster-tail of water coming up, quite to the contrary that it would push water down. Could the trim angle or the motor height be causing this problem? Thanks --Hector |
#2
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jun 15, 8:57 pm, wrote:
Hi all, I have a small (14 ft) wood boat that I built myself. I put a 25 HP (Suzuki 4 stroke, manual trim) outboard on it. The angle of the transom is such that the outboard is always trimmed in (even when I adjust the bracket to the most trimmed out pin). The outboard may also be a little bit high. The cavitation plate is at an angle in the water, the front is lower than the back, the front is probably level with the keel or 1/4" high, while the back is higher than the keel. What I have noticed in the water is that the boat creates a lot of spray, a big rooster tail appears behind the boat (maybe 4-6 ft behind), and the performance seems quite sluggish. I am a little confused as I expected that a trimmed in motor would not generate a rooster-tail of water coming up, quite to the contrary that it would push water down. Could the trim angle or the motor height be causing this problem? Thanks --Hector One correction to my post, the cavitation plate is at an angle, the front of the cavitation plate is higher than the back (I wrote the opposite in my post). |
#4
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jun 15, 9:44 pm, trainfan1 wrote:
wrote: On Jun 15, 8:57 pm, wrote: Hi all, I have a small (14 ft) wood boat that I built myself. I put a 25 HP (Suzuki 4 stroke, manual trim) outboard on it. The angle of the transom is such that the outboard is always trimmed in (even when I adjust the bracket to the most trimmed out pin). The outboard may also be a little bit high. The cavitation plate is at an angle in the water, the front is lower than the back, the front is probably level with the keel or 1/4" high, while the back is higher than the keel. What I have noticed in the water is that the boat creates a lot of spray, a big rooster tail appears behind the boat (maybe 4-6 ft behind), and the performance seems quite sluggish. I am a little confused as I expected that a trimmed in motor would not generate a rooster-tail of water coming up, quite to the contrary that it would push water down. Could the trim angle or the motor height be causing this problem? Thanks --Hector One correction to my post, the cavitation plate is at an angle, the front of the cavitation plate is higher than the back (I wrote the opposite in my post). Hi Rob, Thanks for your reply. I was about to call you on your contradiction. You need a transom wedge to correct your geometry problem. What you really want is the cavitation plate surface parallel to the water, or slightly the opposite of what you have now. With your negative trim situation now, the bow of the boat is being forced down & plowing into/through the water. To get the boat on plane, you need bow lift. http://www.brokeboats.com/trim.jpg Your rooster tail is probably spray off the cavitation plate. This is a very good idea, I will install a wedge and see how the proper angle improves things. What is the height of your transom? Is your Suzuki a 15" shaft model or a 20" shaft model? The transom was originally 20", I cut it out to around 17" given that the engine is 15". I feel that I may also need to cut further, but I may want to first correct the trim before cutting more into the transom. --Hector |
#5
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]() wrote in message oups.com... On Jun 15, 9:44 pm, trainfan1 wrote: wrote: On Jun 15, 8:57 pm, wrote: Hi all, I have a small (14 ft) wood boat that I built myself. I put a 25 HP (Suzuki 4 stroke, manual trim) outboard on it. The angle of the transom is such that the outboard is always trimmed in (even when I adjust the bracket to the most trimmed out pin). The outboard may also be a little bit high. The cavitation plate is at an angle in the water, the front is lower than the back, the front is probably level with the keel or 1/4" high, while the back is higher than the keel. What I have noticed in the water is that the boat creates a lot of spray, a big rooster tail appears behind the boat (maybe 4-6 ft behind), and the performance seems quite sluggish. I am a little confused as I expected that a trimmed in motor would not generate a rooster-tail of water coming up, quite to the contrary that it would push water down. Could the trim angle or the motor height be causing this problem? Thanks --Hector One correction to my post, the cavitation plate is at an angle, the front of the cavitation plate is higher than the back (I wrote the opposite in my post). Hi Rob, Thanks for your reply. I was about to call you on your contradiction. You need a transom wedge to correct your geometry problem. What you really want is the cavitation plate surface parallel to the water, or slightly the opposite of what you have now. With your negative trim situation now, the bow of the boat is being forced down & plowing into/through the water. To get the boat on plane, you need bow lift. http://www.brokeboats.com/trim.jpg Your rooster tail is probably spray off the cavitation plate. This is a very good idea, I will install a wedge and see how the proper angle improves things. What is the height of your transom? Is your Suzuki a 15" shaft model or a 20" shaft model? The transom was originally 20", I cut it out to around 17" given that the engine is 15". I feel that I may also need to cut further, but I may want to first correct the trim before cutting more into the transom. --Hector Does sound like you should have the 'long shaft' motor. |
#6
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jun 15, 10:11 pm, "Don White" wrote:
wrote in message oups.com... On Jun 15, 9:44 pm, trainfan1 wrote: wrote: On Jun 15, 8:57 pm, wrote: Hi all, I have a small (14 ft) wood boat that I built myself. I put a 25 HP (Suzuki 4 stroke, manual trim) outboard on it. The angle of the transom is such that the outboard is always trimmed in (even when I adjust the bracket to the most trimmed out pin). The outboard may also be a little bit high. The cavitation plate is at an angle in the water, the front is lower than the back, the front is probably level with the keel or 1/4" high, while the back is higher than the keel. What I have noticed in the water is that the boat creates a lot of spray, a big rooster tail appears behind the boat (maybe 4-6 ft behind), and the performance seems quite sluggish. I am a little confused as I expected that a trimmed in motor would not generate a rooster-tail of water coming up, quite to the contrary that it would push water down. Could the trim angle or the motor height be causing this problem? Thanks --Hector One correction to my post, the cavitation plate is at an angle, the front of the cavitation plate is higher than the back (I wrote the opposite in my post). Hi Rob, Thanks for your reply. I was about to call you on your contradiction. You need a transom wedge to correct your geometry problem. What you really want is the cavitation plate surface parallel to the water, or slightly the opposite of what you have now. With your negative trim situation now, the bow of the boat is being forced down & plowing into/through the water. To get the boat on plane, you need bow lift. http://www.brokeboats.com/trim.jpg Your rooster tail is probably spray off the cavitation plate. This is a very good idea, I will install a wedge and see how the proper angle improves things. What is the height of your transom? Is your Suzuki a 15" shaft model or a 20" shaft model? The transom was originally 20", I cut it out to around 17" given that the engine is 15". I feel that I may also need to cut further, but I may want to first correct the trim before cutting more into the transom. --Hector Does sound like you should have the 'long shaft' motor. Yes, a long shaft motor would have been better but I could only get a short shaft motor. The boat is in Colombia (South America) and here almost every motor sold is short shaft. But I made a cut out on the transom of around 3" to lower the engine. |
#7
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
wrote:
On Jun 15, 9:44 pm, trainfan1 wrote: wrote: On Jun 15, 8:57 pm, wrote: Hi all, I have a small (14 ft) wood boat that I built myself. I put a 25 HP (Suzuki 4 stroke, manual trim) outboard on it. The angle of the transom is such that the outboard is always trimmed in (even when I adjust the bracket to the most trimmed out pin). The outboard may also be a little bit high. The cavitation plate is at an angle in the water, the front is lower than the back, the front is probably level with the keel or 1/4" high, while the back is higher than the keel. What I have noticed in the water is that the boat creates a lot of spray, a big rooster tail appears behind the boat (maybe 4-6 ft behind), and the performance seems quite sluggish. I am a little confused as I expected that a trimmed in motor would not generate a rooster-tail of water coming up, quite to the contrary that it would push water down. Could the trim angle or the motor height be causing this problem? Thanks --Hector One correction to my post, the cavitation plate is at an angle, the front of the cavitation plate is higher than the back (I wrote the opposite in my post). Hi Rob, Thanks for your reply. I was about to call you on your contradiction. You need a transom wedge to correct your geometry problem. What you really want is the cavitation plate surface parallel to the water, or slightly the opposite of what you have now. With your negative trim situation now, the bow of the boat is being forced down & plowing into/through the water. To get the boat on plane, you need bow lift. http://www.brokeboats.com/trim.jpg Your rooster tail is probably spray off the cavitation plate. This is a very good idea, I will install a wedge and see how the proper angle improves things. What is the height of your transom? Is your Suzuki a 15" shaft model or a 20" shaft model? The transom was originally 20", I cut it out to around 17" given that the engine is 15". I feel that I may also need to cut further, but I may want to first correct the trim before cutting more into the transom. --Hector When you get that sorted out, you might have to play with different props to get the best result. Dan |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Whale tail vs Trim Tabs | General | |||
Trim / Tilt issue on Outboard | General | |||
Trim Issue/Wired Incorrectily Maybe | General | |||
Trim Woes | General | |||
Angle of prop shaft - theoretical question. | General |