On Jun 2, 7:55 am, wrote:
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While the concept of running a gas or diesel engine on a tankful of
water is absurd, there is a long history of water injection to improve
performance. The Germans used this idea during WWII, and it probably
didn't originate with them. I wouldn't personally do it or recommend
it, but it isn't unheard of.

The following is from goodgrease.com

**********

Water injection is a very simple and very safe older technology that
has almost been forgotten. It is so cheap and easy that it is a
miracle that it got lost in time. You can probably build it for free
and even if you buy the parts, it's still cheap (and easy). And it
increases your fuel mileage on gasoline or diesel engines and cleans
the engine and the emissions. If everyone used it the savings in
pollution and fuel costs would probably be in the billions. We don't
know exactly how much because, after all, we're just hillbillies and
them thar statistics are hard to cipher. But it's very green, very
easy, very cheap and will help you pass emissions tests and save you
fuel. It also adds extra power. We even wanted to put one on our mule
when we hitched her up to the plow but she wouldn't have it (probably
because she's been exposed to them thar feminist ideals).

While water injection is great for fuel savings and for clean
emissions it is even better at cleaning BIODIESEL, GREASEL AND
GREASEOLINE arrangements. In fact since alternative fuels deposit more
soot, carbon and coke in an engine, water injection is almost
indispensable if you ain't using store bought fuels. Or even if you
are buying alternative fuels at a store you still should have water
injection. We hillbillies consider it as big a necessity as a still
and a corn cob pipe, if'in yer running bio fuels that is. Hell, every
vehicle will be helped by water injection if'in y'all want better
mileage and cleaner emissions. Well, all right, I'll stop beating
around the bush and get right to how you can make it f'r yerself. Here
it is with most of it recopied from other stuff us hillbillies wrote.
Sorry if it repeats some. That happens when we've been working out on
our still.

WATER INJECTION THEORY AND COMPONENTS
Water injection probably should be placed on every diesel and gasoline
vehicle and it used to be a common feature on many big diesel rigs.
Regrettably, at present, most parts men and many mechanics have either
not heard of it or are not clear about it.

Water injection is a simple system to remove carbon, (and coke) from
your vehicle and to increase fuel mileage. Any gasoline or diesel
engine would be made cleaner and less polluting with this system, yet
the world seems to have forgotten about it's existence. In a time when
we desperately need to lower our fuel consumption and clean our
emissions, it is time to bring back this old system. Regrettably this
methodology is not even detailed well on the internet (we aim to fix
that soon). Alternative fuel systems can create more carbon than
regular diesel and so can be helped more by water injection than other
systems.

Before we continue, let's define a few words for Ya'll. CARBON is a
form of dirt that can mess up any internal combustion engine. It can
cause poor performance, dirty emission and poor gas mileage. Carbon is
removed with water injection. SOOT is the black smoke you see coming
out of a diesel rig. It has all the bad attributes of carbon and it
also has carbon in it. It can get in the oil of a diesel and cause
damage or it can cause Coking or it can cause carbon deposits on the
piston and cylinder walls. COKE is what is made when fuel and carbon
mix. It's in your encyclopedia. Coke can ruin a diesel engine and it
will not help a gasoline engine. Alternative fuels in a diesel cause
more coke, and all greasel and greaseoline arrangements will
eventually be ruined with coke unless you protect them with water
injection. Water injection helps fuels burn in internal combustion
engines and helps against soot, carbon and coke. Often it will remove
all of the carbon deposits, and we think it removes all of the Coke
deposits if'in they ain't too bad. Or more likely there probably will
not be any coke deposits if you have water injection.

In the sixties many, if not most, big rigs had water injection. You
must not pass water through the fuel injectors so the water (or more
accurately water vapor) is fed into the intake manifold of a diesel or
gasoline engine. The method to do this is so simple that a good
handyman can build it in an hour or less. It works because, with the
addition of water vapor, the carbon deposits change temperature and
expand quickly enough to be blasted off of the cylinder wall, thus
cleaning the engine and the emissions, and improving efficiency. Many
mechanics in the old days would squirt water from a water pistol into
carburetors to clean an engine, but water injection works better and
improves mileage. It can be put on every engine that I've ever heard
of and it actually works a little better on gasoline engines than on
diesel. (If you can't wait to get water injection the squirt gun will
work for you a little and you can do that today).

Straight water placed into any engine would fill the combustion
chamber and ruin the engine, so water vapor is used. An overuse of
water would be called over hydration and it must be avoided. It is
easier to over hydrate a diesel engine though it is more common to use
water injection on a diesel than on a gasoline engine because it helps
diesel engines more.

Imagine a plastic bottle (like a radiator overflow tank) with a tight
seal on the top (if it doesn't have a tight seal, make it tight, with
a rubber gasket). A tube or hose should be placed someplace on the top
of the bottle or in the cap. Another tube or hose should be placed at
the bottom of the bottle with the inlet just inside the bottom. Tube
mountings of this kind are common on radiator overflow tanks. The
other end of the bottom hose, should be placed above the bottle or, at
least, even with the top of the bottle. Now, mount the bottle in the
engine compartment and fill it ¾ of the way with water. On a gasoline
engine, run the tube from the top of the bottle to vacuum on the
intake manifold. Let the other tube run from the bottom of the bottle
to atmosphere above the bottle. Now when the engine is started, the
vacuum tube to the intake manifold will suck air out of the top of the
water bottle which should be filled 3/4s with water (or a little more
than 3/4). The only way the air can be replaced is if it comes through
the other tube which runs out the bottom of the bottle to the
atmosphere above the bottle. This will make a roar of bubbles in the
air chamber coming from the bottom tube. When the bubbles burst on
reaching the top of the water, each bubble will propel a near
microscopic droplet of water into the air chamber. With hundreds, or
thousands, of droplets bursting on the surface, the air chamber will
become super humid. It will become so wet that the air chamber will be
all water vapor. The water vapor will of course be sucked into the
intake manifold. Thus, water injection has been achieved without using
the fuel injectors. Dirty emissions, soot, carbon, pollution and coke,
will all be removed or at least be greatly decreased. Note: There is
another kind of water injection that goes through injectors placed in
the intake, but that is a racing application for power. Our water
injection will add some power, but that is not its main purpose.

Well, that's it if you're working with gasoline though we will give
more information on where to buy the equipment later on down the
page*. Now, if you have a diesel, it will all still work -you'll just
have to rig it differently.

On a diesel engine, what I have described above becomes only slightly
more complicated. Since diesel engines have less room in the
combustion chamber when the piston is at the top, too much water can
fill this small area. No, I've never heard of it happening, and as
long as one leaves some air in the bottle, it should not happen. But,
one should know of the possibility so as not to over hydrate a diesel
engine. This same condition is possible on a gasoline engine, but
there is a greater protection from the larger space when the piston is
at top dead center. Using a clear tube to the intake manifold will
give you an idea of how much water you are putting through your
system. If you have (just a few) tiny droplets of water on the walls
of the tube, it's enough.

The other slight difficulty, to be addressed with a diesel engine,
involves the nature of the vacuum in a diesel manifold. This vacuum is
much less than in a car and can seem to be almost non-existent.
Therefore, the system described above will work as explained only on
diesels with turbo chargers. Here you place your vacuum line on the
high vacuum side of the turbo charger. You will know if you have
hooked it to the right side by whether or not there is a roar of
bubbles in your bottle. If you can't get a roar of bubbles you will
have to do it as it is described immediately below.

In diesels without a turbo charger (like mine) you need to blow your
water vapor into the intake manifold. I used the bypass gasses in the
rocker cover assembly to do this. This is accomplished by hooking the
tube from the bottom of the water bottle (the one usually running to
atmosphere) to the rocker cover. Of course you must be sure that by
harnessing the blowby gasses in the rocker cover you do not create
pressure in the rocker cover or too much pressure in your bottle. You
may blow seals unless you keep an extra vent. I addressed this by
having two vents for the rocker cover. The tube from the rocker cover
goes to a T fitting, with one passage to the water bottle and one to
atmosphere. What I don't use goes out the other side of the T fitting
to atmosphere (running a tube to below the car). Thus there is a vent
so that when pressure is built up in the water bottle the blowby
gasses would not build up in the rocker cover. Yes, oil from the
blowby does get into my water bottle but it has never caused any
trouble and no significant amount of oil seems to get into the intake
manifold. Of course, if it did, it wouldn't hurt anything. I make sure
that there is no hiss of air when I turn off the engine so that I am
sure that I have not created too much back pressure. I listen for the
hiss when I shut it off. Hiss time should be less than one second
though it need not be non existent.

In the 70s, when engines had a lot of trouble with carbon deposits, I
used to whip up water injection for my customers in short order from
old window washer bottles or radiator overflow bottles (Hillbilly
ingenuity). If you don't want to make your own water injection bottle
you can buy a radiator overflow bottle to make water injection.

******************

Every mechanic knows all about water injection. Any car that has blown a
head gasket shows evidence as *very* clean piston/combustion chamber.
JR

Chuck Gould wrote:


Water injection is a very simple and very safe older technology that
has almost been forgotten.
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