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I'm not an oceanologist but I think I understand the process. On the
open ocean 10 to 12 foot waves are not at all uncommon, especially if an active weather front has passed through recently. These waves are fairly benign, i.e., they are not usually steep or breaking in deep water. They do travel a long way before dissipating however. As a result it is not uncommon to have 2 or 3 different wave trains passing through an area at the same time, frequently from different directions. Peak wave height then becomes a statistical probability excercise of computing the chances that these multiple wave trains will all happen to coincide at a given time and place. When that happens, either a much larger than average wave is created, or just as probable, a deep hole. Either the wave or hole is an anomaly which gravity will try to destroy as quickly as possible with collapsing/breaking water. So if this is true then a system, in the future, could be developed to map the probability of encountering this phenomenon in a given area based off the prescence of certain criteria. It could work like a weather map but show basic probablity of encounter in a given area. This would at least give some way of increasing safety by planning a route or time change. Of course it would only be a probability and not a gauranteed incident of encounter. |
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