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On 2 May 2007 09:35:01 -0700, Chuck Gould
wrote: What do oceanologists say about the generation of a rogue wave? Anybody know? When conditions are fairly benign, say maybe 8-10 foot swells, what oddball force kicks up a single, 40-foot, steep and cresting wave? I'm not an oceanologist but I think I understand the process. On the open ocean 10 to 12 foot waves are not at all uncommon, especially if an active weather front has passed through recently. These waves are fairly benign, i.e., they are not usually steep or breaking in deep water. They do travel a long way before dissipating however. As a result it is not uncommon to have 2 or 3 different wave trains passing through an area at the same time, frequently from different directions. Peak wave height then becomes a statistical probability excercise of computing the chances that these multiple wave trains will all happen to coincide at a given time and place. When that happens, either a much larger than average wave is created, or just as probable, a deep hole. Either the wave or hole is an anomaly which gravity will try to destroy as quickly as possible with collapsing/breaking water. |
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