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Posts: 5,515
Default Water Drain Plug

"basskisser" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 2, 9:31 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"basskisser" wrote in message

oups.com...





On Apr 2, 7:50 am, "JimH" wrote:
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message


roups.com...


On Apr 1, 3:52?pm, "JimH" wrote:
"dave_in_mn" wrote in message


groups.com...


Hi all,


I have an old 14' Alumacraft boat. The boat does not have a water
drain plug so if I leave it on the trailer it fills up with
water.
What I would like to do is add a drain plug to it. Has anyone
here
ever done that?


Thanks,


Dave


I have not installed one before but it is an easy $13 fix.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tempo...eiver-Kit_W0QQ...


http://tinyurl.com/2x9goh


What sort of screws would you recommend, Jim?


Actually I would think the installations calls for the use of nuts and
bolts, not screws.


1. Stainless nuts and bolts. The bolt holes in the hull would be
oversized
so the bolts do not touch the hull. I would also use plastic sleeves
to
encase the bolts, ensuring no contact with the aluminum.


or


2. Aluminum nuts/bolts. I would then use JB Weld to reinforce the
outside
edges of the plug frame, both inside and outside the boat.


It is not a difficult fix Chuck.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Jim, what would be wrong about using simple, easy to find aluminum
rivets?


They can't be tightened when necessary. And, to make them watertight,
they'd
need as much fiddling with as nuts & bolts, so he may as well just use
nuts
& bolts.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It's easier to use and find aluminum rivets than aluminum bolts, nuts
and washers. It's also easy to to wring off an aluminum bolt.


Should SS hardware be OK, if the boat's only used in fresh water? The ones I
used to attach my depth finder's sender show no signs of corrosion at all,
or any adverse interaction with the aluminum hull.


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Default Water Drain Plug

On Tue, 03 Apr 2007 12:06:02 GMT, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:

Should SS hardware be OK, if the boat's only used in fresh water? The ones I
used to attach my depth finder's sender show no signs of corrosion at all,
or any adverse interaction with the aluminum hull.


Neither does mine on the Princecraft, but the bracket is non-magnetic
stainless as are the screws. I also sealed the hell out of it.
  #3   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,533
Default Water Drain Plug


"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message
...
"basskisser" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 2, 9:31 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"basskisser" wrote in message

oups.com...





On Apr 2, 7:50 am, "JimH" wrote:
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Apr 1, 3:52?pm, "JimH" wrote:
"dave_in_mn" wrote in message

groups.com...

Hi all,

I have an old 14' Alumacraft boat. The boat does not have a
water
drain plug so if I leave it on the trailer it fills up with
water.
What I would like to do is add a drain plug to it. Has anyone
here
ever done that?

Thanks,

Dave

I have not installed one before but it is an easy $13 fix.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tempo...eiver-Kit_W0QQ...

http://tinyurl.com/2x9goh

What sort of screws would you recommend, Jim?

Actually I would think the installations calls for the use of nuts
and
bolts, not screws.

1. Stainless nuts and bolts. The bolt holes in the hull would be
oversized
so the bolts do not touch the hull. I would also use plastic sleeves
to
encase the bolts, ensuring no contact with the aluminum.

or

2. Aluminum nuts/bolts. I would then use JB Weld to reinforce the
outside
edges of the plug frame, both inside and outside the boat.

It is not a difficult fix Chuck.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Jim, what would be wrong about using simple, easy to find aluminum
rivets?

They can't be tightened when necessary. And, to make them watertight,
they'd
need as much fiddling with as nuts & bolts, so he may as well just use
nuts
& bolts.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It's easier to use and find aluminum rivets than aluminum bolts, nuts
and washers. It's also easy to to wring off an aluminum bolt.


Should SS hardware be OK, if the boat's only used in fresh water? The ones
I used to attach my depth finder's sender show no signs of corrosion at
all, or any adverse interaction with the aluminum hull.


I have had no problems with stainless hardware on my Lund after several
years.


  #4   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 5,515
Default Water Drain Plug

"D.Duck" wrote in message
...

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message
...
"basskisser" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 2, 9:31 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"basskisser" wrote in message

oups.com...





On Apr 2, 7:50 am, "JimH" wrote:
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Apr 1, 3:52?pm, "JimH" wrote:
"dave_in_mn" wrote in message

groups.com...

Hi all,

I have an old 14' Alumacraft boat. The boat does not have a
water
drain plug so if I leave it on the trailer it fills up with
water.
What I would like to do is add a drain plug to it. Has anyone
here
ever done that?

Thanks,

Dave

I have not installed one before but it is an easy $13 fix.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tempo...eiver-Kit_W0QQ...

http://tinyurl.com/2x9goh

What sort of screws would you recommend, Jim?

Actually I would think the installations calls for the use of nuts
and
bolts, not screws.

1. Stainless nuts and bolts. The bolt holes in the hull would be
oversized
so the bolts do not touch the hull. I would also use plastic
sleeves to
encase the bolts, ensuring no contact with the aluminum.

or

2. Aluminum nuts/bolts. I would then use JB Weld to reinforce the
outside
edges of the plug frame, both inside and outside the boat.

It is not a difficult fix Chuck.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Jim, what would be wrong about using simple, easy to find aluminum
rivets?

They can't be tightened when necessary. And, to make them watertight,
they'd
need as much fiddling with as nuts & bolts, so he may as well just use
nuts
& bolts.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's easier to use and find aluminum rivets than aluminum bolts, nuts
and washers. It's also easy to to wring off an aluminum bolt.


Should SS hardware be OK, if the boat's only used in fresh water? The
ones I used to attach my depth finder's sender show no signs of corrosion
at all, or any adverse interaction with the aluminum hull.


I have had no problems with stainless hardware on my Lund after several
years.


Maybe it's because like my yacht, yours is a Lund, a yacht much better than
any other. And, you have exquisite taste in yachts. :-)


  #5   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,533
Default Water Drain Plug


"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message
...
"D.Duck" wrote in message
...

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message
...
"basskisser" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Apr 2, 9:31 am, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"basskisser" wrote in message

oups.com...





On Apr 2, 7:50 am, "JimH" wrote:
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Apr 1, 3:52?pm, "JimH" wrote:
"dave_in_mn" wrote in message

groups.com...

Hi all,

I have an old 14' Alumacraft boat. The boat does not have a
water
drain plug so if I leave it on the trailer it fills up with
water.
What I would like to do is add a drain plug to it. Has anyone
here
ever done that?

Thanks,

Dave

I have not installed one before but it is an easy $13 fix.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tempo...eiver-Kit_W0QQ...

http://tinyurl.com/2x9goh

What sort of screws would you recommend, Jim?

Actually I would think the installations calls for the use of nuts
and
bolts, not screws.

1. Stainless nuts and bolts. The bolt holes in the hull would be
oversized
so the bolts do not touch the hull. I would also use plastic
sleeves to
encase the bolts, ensuring no contact with the aluminum.

or

2. Aluminum nuts/bolts. I would then use JB Weld to reinforce
the
outside
edges of the plug frame, both inside and outside the boat.

It is not a difficult fix Chuck.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Jim, what would be wrong about using simple, easy to find aluminum
rivets?

They can't be tightened when necessary. And, to make them watertight,
they'd
need as much fiddling with as nuts & bolts, so he may as well just use
nuts
& bolts.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's easier to use and find aluminum rivets than aluminum bolts, nuts
and washers. It's also easy to to wring off an aluminum bolt.


Should SS hardware be OK, if the boat's only used in fresh water? The
ones I used to attach my depth finder's sender show no signs of
corrosion at all, or any adverse interaction with the aluminum hull.


I have had no problems with stainless hardware on my Lund after several
years.


Maybe it's because like my yacht, yours is a Lund, a yacht much better
than any other. And, you have exquisite taste in yachts. :-)


Never really thought of it as yacht (1900 Pro-V SE), but it's a great
fishing platform.




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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Apr 2007
Posts: 2
Default Water Drain Plug

I just wanted to say thanks to all who replied.

Thanks much!

Dave

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