Keith wrote:
You need to figure out
where the moisture is coming from that allows the mold to grow.
Probably lack of ventilation, or condensation if you're in a cold
climate.

I would guess is it a leak around the rub rail due to the location of
the mold. If it is Black Mold per Tom's post, it has to be due to a
long period of dampness. Black Mold is toxic and needs to be handled
with care, weat a mask, ventilate the area with a fan, and after
cleaning the mold, wipe down the rest of the inside of the cabin.

On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 07:13:35 -0400, RJSmithers
wrote:

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 06:41:39 -0400, RJSmithers
wrote:

Kirk wrote:
On Mar 14, 8:20 pm, RJSmithers
wrote:

DO NOT use bleach, use oxyclean.
I've tried Oxyclean. It didn't cut it.

Spray it with a stronger concentrate of Oxyclean and keep it wet for a
longer period, rubbing it with a cloth, then spraying it with the
Oxyclean. Bleach will "bleach" it white. I have used this to get rid
of mildew on the headliner and the canvas cover.

If it's black mold, it ain't going away period other than removing it
and then using a mold killer.

Mold Killers:

1. Alcohols (ethanol, isopropanol):

Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal. Use a diluted concentration of 60
to 90%.
Advantages - nonstaining and nonirritating
Disadvantages - inactivated by organic matter, highly flammable

2. Quarternary Ammonium Compounds:

Bactericidal and Virucidal with limited effectiveness, Fungicidal. Use a
diluted concentration of 0.4 to 1.6%.
Advantages - inexpensive
Disadvantages - inactivated by organic matter, limited efficacy

3. Phenolics:

Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal. Use a diluted concentration of 0.4
to 0.5%.
Advantages - inexpensive, residual
Disadvantages - toxic, irritating, and corrosive

4. Iodophors:

Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Sporicidal and Tuberculocidal if
contact time is for a prolonged period of time. Use a concentration of
75 ppm.
Advantages - stable, residual action
Disadvantages - inactivated by organic matter, expensive

5. Glutaraldehydes:

Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Sporicidal (prolonged contact time
required), and Tuberculocidal. Use a diluted concentration of 2%.
Advantages - unaffected by organics, noncorrosive
Disadvantages - irritating/damaging vapors, highly toxic, expensive

6. Hypochlorites (Chlorox Bleach):

Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Sporicidal (prolonged contact time
required), and Tuberculocidal. Use a diluted concentartion of 1:10 .
Advantages - inexpensive
Disadvantages - bleaching agent, toxic, corrosive, inactivated by
organic matter; removes color from many interior fabrics; dissolves
protein fibers (i.e. wool, silk); has not shown to be effective against
stachybotrys spores.

7. Hydrogen Peroxide:

Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Sporicidal (prolonged contact time
required), and Tuberculocidal. Use a diluted concentration of 3% or greater.
Advantages - Relatively stable
Disadvantages - corrosive, expensive, degrades in heat or UV light

8 - Pizza.

You'd have to try it in an inconspicuous place and see. Bleach has got it
all over everything else for killing and removing mold but you are right it
will change the color of things. Your location is just going to always be a
problem for mold. I have no idea what your boat looks like but perhaps a
snap in white fabric or vinyl replacement would be the bext long term
solution.

"Kirk" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Mar 14, 6:36 pm, "James" wrote:
Bleach. Rinse well after. Spray with Lysol when dry.


what if the liner isn't pure white? Mine is sort of off-white color.
Will the bleach cause discoloration, or just remove the black stuff?

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:

Mold Killers:

8 - Pizza.

Is that taken internally or just rubbed on the headliner?

On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 08:32:50 -0400, RJSmithers
wrote:

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:

Mold Killers:

8 - Pizza.

Is that taken internally or just rubbed on the headliner?

Neither. You store the pizza behind the headliner.

On Mar 14, 6:24?pm, "Kirk" wrote:
My boat has this fuzzy (aka crappy) headliner material that is showing
blackness in corners, etc. Does anyone have a good cleaner or tips
\tricks for tackling this stuff? A stiff scrub brush won't work as it
will just chew up the material. I've tried canned carpet cleaners, but
they don't make a dent.

Help!!

Signed,
Soggy in Seattle

Sounds like "bunny fur" material.

Might as well pull it down, find and fix whatever leak is creating the
moisture.
You can spend all summer scrubbing that thing, but everytime it rains
(what? in Seattle?) or you wash the boat the mold problem will kick in
again.

My advice would be to eliminate the source of the mold, and then
replace the material. A lot less frustrating than trying to keep up
with a bottle of bleach and a brush.

The bunny fur is probably glued directly to the laminate. Look for a
good spot to make a straight cut when you're removing the old stuff.
When you replace the bunny fur, you can add a teak or even a platic
batten to cover the seam between the new and the old material. You can
add a second batten on the opposite side and the whole works will look
like it was built that way, rather than patched.

Tilex works well for me. Be careful as it will bleach some material
dyes. Test on a small area first. Ventilation is the key for keeping the
mildew down. Anything you can do to assure airflow through the cabin
during storage will help.
JR

Kirk wrote:
My boat has this fuzzy (aka crappy) headliner material that is showing
blackness in corners, etc. Does anyone have a good cleaner or tips
\tricks for tackling this stuff? A stiff scrub brush won't work as it
will just chew up the material. I've tried canned carpet cleaners, but
they don't make a dent.

Help!!

Signed,
Soggy in Seattle



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

On Mar 16, 8:27�am, JR North wrote:
Tilex works well for me. Be careful as it will bleach some material
dyes. Test on a small area first. Ventilation is the key for keeping the
mildew down. Anything you can do to assure airflow through the cabin
during storage will help.
JR

Kirk wrote:
My boat has this fuzzy (aka crappy) headliner material that is showing
blackness in corners, etc. Does anyone have a good cleaner or tips
\tricks for tackling this stuff? A stiff scrub brush won't work as it
will just chew up the material. I've tried canned carpet cleaners, but
they don't make a dent.

Help!!

Signed,
Soggy in Seattle

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
* * * * Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

Do you think its more likely to be a general dampness condition vs. a
leak?
I was taking clues from this comment that the mildew was in a corner,
typically a point where there is going to be a joint nearby. I suppose
that by the same token the air circulation might be worse in the
corner than across the broad section of the headliner....

I would agree that ventilation is the main key to general moisture
control.

On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 18:24:03 -0700, Kirk wrote:

My boat has this fuzzy (aka crappy) headliner material that is showing
blackness in corners, etc. Does anyone have a good cleaner or tips
\tricks for tackling this stuff? A stiff scrub brush won't work as it
will just chew up the material. I've tried canned carpet cleaners, but
they don't make a dent.

Help!!

Signed,
Soggy in Seattle

Bleach. Diluted into a spray-bottle. The Oxy-stuff works just about as
well as the Chlorine stuff, and may be kinder to your material.

druid - knows his mildew!
http://www.bcboatnet.org