Bob wrote:
This thread brings up a good question...

How do you determine the proper length of the chains?

I once read somewhere that the appropriate length is 70 degrees from the
points of attachment meaning that the angle between the tow vehicle
and the trailer is 70 degrees without the chains dragging on the ground.

I don't know if that is correct or not, but it seems right.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
This thread brings up a good question...

How do you determine the proper length of the chains?

I once read somewhere that the appropriate length is 70 degrees from the
points of attachment meaning that the angle between the tow vehicle and
the trailer is 70 degrees without the chains dragging on the ground.

I don't know if that is correct or not, but it seems right.


What about hooking up the chains, taking the hitch off the ball, letting it
rest on the chains, and see if it appears to have enough clearance to deal
with any road irregularities it's likely to encounter if it cuts loose?
Then, test for cornering, and ba da bing.

I guess the other question is this (for me, at least): If you:

- Use a safety link through the lever
- Replace the ball if it looks like the stem's being weakend by rust (or
something)
- Go over all the hardware with a torque wrench regularly

....what's likely to fail?

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
This thread brings up a good question...

How do you determine the proper length of the chains?
I once read somewhere that the appropriate length is 70 degrees from the
points of attachment meaning that the angle between the tow vehicle and
the trailer is 70 degrees without the chains dragging on the ground.

I don't know if that is correct or not, but it seems right.


What about hooking up the chains, taking the hitch off the ball, letting it
rest on the chains, and see if it appears to have enough clearance to deal
with any road irregularities it's likely to encounter if it cuts loose?
Then, test for cornering, and ba da bing.

I guess the other question is this (for me, at least): If you:

- Use a safety link through the lever
- Replace the ball if it looks like the stem's being weakend by rust (or
something)
- Go over all the hardware with a torque wrench regularly

...what's likely to fail?

None of the above.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
Bob wrote:
This thread brings up a good question...

How do you determine the proper length of the chains?
I once read somewhere that the appropriate length is 70 degrees from the
points of attachment meaning that the angle between the tow vehicle and
the trailer is 70 degrees without the chains dragging on the ground.

I don't know if that is correct or not, but it seems right.


What about hooking up the chains, taking the hitch off the ball, letting
it rest on the chains, and see if it appears to have enough clearance to
deal with any road irregularities it's likely to encounter if it cuts
loose? Then, test for cornering, and ba da bing.

I guess the other question is this (for me, at least): If you:

- Use a safety link through the lever
- Replace the ball if it looks like the stem's being weakend by rust (or
something)
- Go over all the hardware with a torque wrench regularly

...what's likely to fail?

None of the above.


Have you seen or heard of failures in other parts of the system? If so,
where?

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

Have you seen or heard of failures in other parts of the system? If so,
where?

Tires - improperly inflated or dry rotted, wheel bearings and brake
systems - surge and electric.

I've seen older trailers with bad bunks and rollers drive a hole in a
hull so I suppose that counts.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
m...
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

Have you seen or heard of failures in other parts of the system? If so,
where?

Tires - improperly inflated or dry rotted, wheel bearings and brake
systems - surge and electric.

I've seen older trailers with bad bunks and rollers drive a hole in a hull
so I suppose that counts.


Whattya think of this:

I've got bearing buddies on my trailer, bought in 1999. My mechanic's a
boater, so during the trailer's NY inspection, he says "Let's jack it up &
listen to the bearings". I know he's not looking for extra work because he
refuses to work on trailers, except his own. His shop's a half mile into
some woods, nice & quiet. He spins the wheels, says "Listen - I don't hear a
thing. I wouldn't clean those bearings. Just keep adding grease when they
need it".

Good advice? Bad advice? Moderately good/bad advice?

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

Whattya think of this:

I've got bearing buddies on my trailer, bought in 1999. My mechanic's a
boater, so during the trailer's NY inspection, he says "Let's jack it up &
listen to the bearings". I know he's not looking for extra work because he
refuses to work on trailers, except his own. His shop's a half mile into
some woods, nice & quiet. He spins the wheels, says "Listen - I don't hear a
thing. I wouldn't clean those bearings. Just keep adding grease when they
need it".

Good advice? Bad advice? Moderately good/bad advice?

I wouldn't buy it.

Visually inspecting the bearings is the only proper way to determine if
there is any damage to the races or bearing assembly themselves. In
particular after seven years.

You may have BB on the bearings, but that doesn't mean that they haven't
picked dust, dirt and other contaminants which hurt bearings. Over
time, even grease can't prevent heat buildup which can also damage
bearings. Also after seven years, the seals are probably worn which
just increases the chances of failure.

On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 17:18:01 GMT, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
om...
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

Have you seen or heard of failures in other parts of the system? If so,
where?

Tires - improperly inflated or dry rotted, wheel bearings and brake
systems - surge and electric.

I've seen older trailers with bad bunks and rollers drive a hole in a hull
so I suppose that counts.


Whattya think of this:

I've got bearing buddies on my trailer, bought in 1999. My mechanic's a
boater, so during the trailer's NY inspection, he says "Let's jack it up &
listen to the bearings". I know he's not looking for extra work because he
refuses to work on trailers, except his own. His shop's a half mile into
some woods, nice & quiet. He spins the wheels, says "Listen - I don't hear a
thing. I wouldn't clean those bearings. Just keep adding grease when they
need it".

Good advice? Bad advice? Moderately good/bad advice?


Did he apply the end of a screwdriver to the hub and place his ear on the
handle while spinning the wheel. Doing this will let him know if the
bearings are making strange noises. A stethoscope will do the same. If he
just spun the wheel and listened from four or five feet away, I'd do it
again.
--
*****Have a Spectacular Day!*****

John H

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

Have you seen or heard of failures in other parts of the system? If so,
where?

Tires - improperly inflated or dry rotted, wheel bearings and brake
systems - surge and electric.

I've seen older trailers with bad bunks and rollers drive a hole in a
hull so I suppose that counts.

The rollers on my trailer on the 23' marquis arn't in good shape, I
noticed that a couple of them look like they're about to break in
two. That's going to get a priority work over, but I gotta get the
boat off the thing, first!

Probably wait till the weather breaks really well and dump it in my
brothers pond for a couple days while I replace the rollers, and paint
it.