|
Stern Drive Conversion
I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive
(the one with loop on the top bearing cover). I have never had this in the water yet. I have never owned a boat before but I am pretty tech savy. I needed to repair a few things including: - the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric fuel pump). - rewired the charging and added an additional battery with optional solar charging. so I took it out and while doing that was surprised to see "REDONE" stamped on the side of the STERN DRIVE. There was an "O" ring when I took the drive off the transom gimbal but I see no rubber hose connecting through to the closed cooling system - It appears to blanked off at the transom end. There is a pipe in through the hull with a valve and that connects via a hose to a seawater pump fitted to the engine.. My assumption is that the pre-Alpha drive has been converted somehow.....!!!!! |
Stern Drive Conversion
Converted to what?
Alpha's still have a built in raw water pump. Both alphas and pre-alphas can be used with out the built in raw water pump if a suitable pump is driven by the engine that uses a thru-hull pickup. What you have is not unheard of. "Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddb9fae75174@uwe... I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive (the one with loop on the top bearing cover). I have never had this in the water yet. I have never owned a boat before but I am pretty tech savy. I needed to repair a few things including: - the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric fuel pump). - rewired the charging and added an additional battery with optional solar charging. so I took it out and while doing that was surprised to see "REDONE" stamped on the side of the STERN DRIVE. There was an "O" ring when I took the drive off the transom gimbal but I see no rubber hose connecting through to the closed cooling system - It appears to blanked off at the transom end. There is a pipe in through the hull with a valve and that connects via a hose to a seawater pump fitted to the engine.. My assumption is that the pre-Alpha drive has been converted somehow.....!!!!! |
Stern Drive Conversion
"Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddb9fae75174@uwe... I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive (the one with loop on the top bearing cover). I have never had this in the water yet. I have never owned a boat before but I am pretty tech savy. I needed to repair a few things including: - the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric fuel pump). How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't .... consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this is accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch. Eisboch |
Stern Drive Conversion
I don't know......It is stamped redone on the outside of the stern drive. Is
it OK just to run the Sterndrive without pipes hooked up since the water route through the Transom goes to a blank off plate? I was worried about the stern-drive it's self needing cooled.... The boat definitely has a through hull raw water pickup that flows through the heat exchanger and out via the exhaust. Remember I am OK with anything mechanical (engines, gearboxes etc) but I am unfamiliar with the needs of sterndrives.... James wrote: Converted to what? Alpha's still have a built in raw water pump. Both alphas and pre-alphas can be used with out the built in raw water pump if a suitable pump is driven by the engine that uses a thru-hull pickup. What you have is not unheard of. I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive (the one with loop on the top bearing cover). [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] My assumption is that the pre-Alpha drive has been converted somehow.....!!!!! |
Stern Drive Conversion
It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel....
Eisboch wrote: I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive (the one with loop on the top bearing cover). [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] - the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric fuel pump). How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't .... consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this is accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch. Eisboch |
Stern Drive Conversion
Sorry for being a bit slow but I thought there was a potential problem if the
RAW water pump on the Stern Drive was just ignored.... Hopefully I can learn this stuff quickly. Bennie wrote: I don't know......It is stamped redone on the outside of the stern drive. Is it OK just to run the Sterndrive without pipes hooked up since the water route through the Transom goes to a blank off plate? I was worried about the stern-drive it's self needing cooled.... The boat definitely has a through hull raw water pickup that flows through the heat exchanger and out via the exhaust. Remember I am OK with anything mechanical (engines, gearboxes etc) but I am unfamiliar with the needs of sterndrives.... Converted to what? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] My assumption is that the pre-Alpha drive has been converted somehow.....!!!!! |
Stern Drive Conversion
"Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddc5da40cf71@uwe... It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel.... Eisboch wrote: How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't .... consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this is accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch. I suspected that might have been the case when you mentioned that you were new to boats. I've been advised by someone far more knowledgeable than I that it should only be powered if the engine is running .... via oil switch or other sensor ... and not powered from the ignition switch only. Unlike a car or truck, on a boat you don't want the potential of the fuel pump pouring fuel on a fire. If carbureted, you also want the bowl overflow to be plumbed back to the fuel supply line before the pump and not simply dumped into the bilge like an automotive carb would do. Just stuff to think about. Eisboch |
Stern Drive Conversion
Bennie wrote:
It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel.... You'd better get that fixed pretty quick. It wouldn't pass a CG inspection as it is. Your insurance won't pay for the ensuing fire damage either(I've denied claims for fires from faulty owner repairs or mods - many boat policies specifically exclude coverage). Rob Eisboch wrote: I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive (the one with loop on the top bearing cover). [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] - the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric fuel pump). How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't .... consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this is accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch. Eisboch |
Stern Drive Conversion
When ign switch is off - no fuel....
No good! There should only be fuel when the engine is cranking (to start), or there is oil pressure (engine running). The latter could save your engine as well. If the oil pressure drops for any reason, the fuel pump will cut out, and the engine will stop before you melt the block. If the ign switch is simply on, and the engine isn't running, the fuel pump should NOT be moving fuel. --Mike "Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddc5da40cf71@uwe... It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel.... Eisboch wrote: I have inherited a 25' MirroCruiser with a 305 and a pre-Alpha Stern Drive (the one with loop on the top bearing cover). [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] - the motor (new pistons and valves and I converted it to an electric fuel pump). How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't .... consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this is accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch. Eisboch |
Stern Drive Conversion
I suspect you will find it does not have a raw water pump in the outdrive.
The raw water pump is just to supply cooling water to the engine. I gather you have not taken the outdrive apart. No real reason to if it does not supply cooling water. You should change it's fluid and check the old fluid for signs of water. You need to wire your electric fuel pump to the cranking terminal of the starter and to an oil pressure switch. Best of luck with your new boat :-) "Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddc6c80655ed@uwe... Sorry for being a bit slow but I thought there was a potential problem if the RAW water pump on the Stern Drive was just ignored.... Hopefully I can learn this stuff quickly. Bennie wrote: I don't know......It is stamped redone on the outside of the stern drive. Is it OK just to run the Sterndrive without pipes hooked up since the water route through the Transom goes to a blank off plate? I was worried about the stern-drive it's self needing cooled.... The boat definitely has a through hull raw water pickup that flows through the heat exchanger and out via the exhaust. Remember I am OK with anything mechanical (engines, gearboxes etc) but I am unfamiliar with the needs of sterndrives.... Converted to what? [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] My assumption is that the pre-Alpha drive has been converted somehow.....!!!!! |
Stern Drive Conversion
Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running while
OUT the water I can leave it alone but I will definitely work out away to either relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Again brilliant advice from you all. Thanks. Anyone have more thoughts about the raw water pump and the possible need to cool the stern leg? I don' know if I need that...... I am a going mechanical and electronics guy - planes .....yes. Boats....not yet!! I did see that that alternator was not a Marine version but I have worked out a way to "seal" it so no sparks get out. The starter looks like a marine version though. Thanks again on the pump issue - almost certainley save me a bit of grief! Mike wrote: When ign switch is off - no fuel.... No good! There should only be fuel when the engine is cranking (to start), or there is oil pressure (engine running). The latter could save your engine as well. If the oil pressure drops for any reason, the fuel pump will cut out, and the engine will stop before you melt the block. If the ign switch is simply on, and the engine isn't running, the fuel pump should NOT be moving fuel. --Mike It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel.... [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] Eisboch -- Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com |
Stern Drive Conversion
Hi James,
I have drained the old oil and refilled it - from the bottom up I understood was the way to do it, Didn't see any emulsified oil or traces of water. The skeg is a bit damaged - do you know where you can buy these things that fit over the damage - without welding? Thanks... James wrote: I suspect you will find it does not have a raw water pump in the outdrive. The raw water pump is just to supply cooling water to the engine. I gather you have not taken the outdrive apart. No real reason to if it does not supply cooling water. You should change it's fluid and check the old fluid for signs of water. You need to wire your electric fuel pump to the cranking terminal of the starter and to an oil pressure switch. Best of luck with your new boat :-) Sorry for being a bit slow but I thought there was a potential problem if the [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] My assumption is that the pre-Alpha drive has been converted somehow.....!!!!! -- Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com |
Stern Drive Conversion
do you know where you can buy these things that fit
over the damage - without welding? Google is your friend. Search on 'skeg guard' --Mike "Bennie via BoatKB.com" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddf86de648a4@uwe... Hi James, I have drained the old oil and refilled it - from the bottom up I understood was the way to do it, Didn't see any emulsified oil or traces of water. The skeg is a bit damaged - do you know where you can buy these things that fit over the damage - without welding? Thanks... James wrote: I suspect you will find it does not have a raw water pump in the outdrive. The raw water pump is just to supply cooling water to the engine. I gather you have not taken the outdrive apart. No real reason to if it does not supply cooling water. You should change it's fluid and check the old fluid for signs of water. You need to wire your electric fuel pump to the cranking terminal of the starter and to an oil pressure switch. Best of luck with your new boat :-) Sorry for being a bit slow but I thought there was a potential problem if the [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] My assumption is that the pre-Alpha drive has been converted somehow.....!!!!! -- Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com |
Stern Drive Conversion
I should have explained this thing is a long term project. It was all siezed
up due to the engine not being covered. The guy who tried to fix it was a mechanical moron with even less electronics/electrical experience. The wiring loom engine and to the panel was totally fried and I have had to rewire 80% of this thing. It it not wrotten anywhere and the interior was all in good shape so that is why I have been spending time on it. The motor now runs like a sewing machine with good compression. What I did have to do was swop the carb with a van carb since it was corroded completely. My intention was to make a good one out the the original body and the levers etc from the van carb - but it seems to and run well with the van carb.... I have had to rebuild the remote motor control - it was siezed up too. The plate on the back that covers the gearing in the control and holds the two cables was broken. I am looking for a new one - any ideas? As a temporary measure I have plastered the back with JB weld and aluminium mesh and the put an extra mount for the cable extension onto the support panel. Am I making stupid assumptions? Additionally, I have made an engine alignment to so the crank/adaptor/stern shaft are all aligned well - within about 2mm in straight line and in height - am I correct with that? Thanks to you all for your "expert" advice. Bennie wrote: Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running while OUT the water I can leave it alone but I will definitely work out away to either relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Again brilliant advice from you all. Thanks. Anyone have more thoughts about the raw water pump and the possible need to cool the stern leg? I don' know if I need that...... I am a going mechanical and electronics guy - planes .....yes. Boats....not yet!! I did see that that alternator was not a Marine version but I have worked out a way to "seal" it so no sparks get out. The starter looks like a marine version though. Thanks again on the pump issue - almost certainley save me a bit of grief! When ign switch is off - no fuel.... [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] Eisboch -- Message posted via BoatKB.com http://www.boatkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/boats/200702/1 |
Stern Drive Conversion
relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only
feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Ok, I want to make sure you really understand this... it's important. The fuel pump should only be working when the engine is cranking to *start*, OR there is oil pressure. When you're cranking the engine to start it, there is no oil pressure, but you need fuel. Once it's started, AND you have oil pressure, the fuel pump works as well. The scenario you want to avoid is a running engine, being fed fuel, with NO oil pressure. James' advice is dead on. The pump needs to be wired to the cranking terminal of the starter *AND* (not OR) to an oil pressure switch. --Mike "Bennie via BoatKB.com" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddf7681e40a8@uwe... Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running while OUT the water I can leave it alone but I will definitely work out away to either relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Again brilliant advice from you all. Thanks. Anyone have more thoughts about the raw water pump and the possible need to cool the stern leg? I don' know if I need that...... I am a going mechanical and electronics guy - planes .....yes. Boats....not yet!! I did see that that alternator was not a Marine version but I have worked out a way to "seal" it so no sparks get out. The starter looks like a marine version though. Thanks again on the pump issue - almost certainley save me a bit of grief! Mike wrote: When ign switch is off - no fuel.... No good! There should only be fuel when the engine is cranking (to start), or there is oil pressure (engine running). The latter could save your engine as well. If the oil pressure drops for any reason, the fuel pump will cut out, and the engine will stop before you melt the block. If the ign switch is simply on, and the engine isn't running, the fuel pump should NOT be moving fuel. --Mike It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel.... [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] Eisboch -- Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com |
Stern Drive Conversion
On Feb 15, 10:13 pm, "Mike" wrote:
relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Ok, I want to make sure you really understand this... it's important. The fuel pump should only be working when the engine is cranking to *start*, OR there is oil pressure. When you're cranking the engine to start it, there is no oil pressure, but you need fuel. Once it's started, AND you have oil pressure, the fuel pump works as well. The scenario you want to avoid is a running engine, being fed fuel, with NO oil pressure. James' advice is dead on. The pump needs to be wired to the cranking terminal of the starter *AND* (not OR) to an oil pressure switch. better yet, On a Delco starter, That is, if it's a GM motor, the Delco starter should have two small terminals on the solenoid switch. one for "start" (S) and the other is "relay" (R) . Instead of wiring the fuel pump to the (S) terminal as perscribed, wire it to the (R) terminal which is an inner switch, that when the starter is cranking it will provide a full 12v shot to your fuel pump. If you wire the pump to the (S) terminal, the voltage pull from the pump itself, can rob you of power to the pull-in coil[s] in the solenoid, giving weak solenoid performance, causing the starter not to work properly. |
Stern Drive Conversion
"Eisboch" wrote in message . .. "Bennie" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddc5da40cf71@uwe... It is on the same circuit as the coil...When ign switch is off - no fuel.... Eisboch wrote: How did you power the electric fuel pump? In the event that you didn't .... consider providing it's power in a manner that the power is removed if the engine is not running, even though the ignition may be "on". Often, this is accomplished by powering it through an oil pressure switch. I suspected that might have been the case when you mentioned that you were new to boats. I've been advised by someone far more knowledgeable than I that it should only be powered if the engine is running .... via oil switch or other sensor ... and not powered from the ignition switch only. Unlike a car or truck, on a boat you don't want the potential of the fuel pump pouring fuel on a fire. If carbureted, you also want the bowl overflow to be plumbed back to the fuel supply line before the pump and not simply dumped into the bilge like an automotive carb would do. Just stuff to think about. Eisboch The bowl overflow should be handled by the vent tubes. They are J tubes and dump the extra fuel into the carb throat. If a ford, the engine will still use all the fuel and keep running as Fords love gas. |
Stern Drive Conversion
Mike wrote:
do you know where you can buy these things that fit over the damage - without welding? Google is your friend. Hey!! That's my line!! :) |
Stern Drive Conversion
Bennie via BoatKB.com wrote:
As a temporary measure I have plastered the back with JB weld and aluminium mesh and the put an extra mount for the cable extension onto the support panel. That's a good fix and it will probably last you for a while. I used JB weld to form a mount for a down draft carb on my International Super MTA and after ten years, it's still working. :) |
Stern Drive Conversion
You should look at the float bowl vent tube on the old carb. Often on boats
they are shaped like an upsidedown J rather than a straight tube. This causes the fuel to go down the throat of the carb if the float gets stuck. Instead of spilling around the intake. If you can swap the vent tube that would be good. Occasionally marine carbs have o-rings on the throttle shaft as well to further limit fuel leaking but that is not so common. My holley is a marine carb but the only difference is the J tubes, it does not have o-rings on the shafts. Also any rubber fuel lines you use should be from your local boat store. All rubber fuel lines for boats are double walled. The thing with gas and boats is that if it leaks anywhere the gas vapors will collect in the bottom of the hull. Then a spark and kaboom. I'm not surpirsed about your alternator, I can not see anything about mine that makes it marine and I know for a fact it is the original merc alternatior. You'll probably want to get another shifter plate. That whole shift mechanism is a real rube goildburg on mercs. It uses the tension on the cable housing to activate the stall switches. This momentarily stalls the ignition so it will come out of gear. Yiou can tell when it's not working right as the boat will be almost impossible to get out of gear. Usually you pull so hard that when it finally comes out it goes into the opposite gear. You have to be in the water to check as on land it will shift fine without the interupt working. The gears are designed so that the pressure against the prop causes them to want to stay engaged. Also important that the shift cable housing be free to move, not wiretied or otherwise fastened at the engine end except where it is mounted to that plate. It can be real finicky to get working and having the plate broken will just make it harder. You could fabricate one if you're really into that sort of thing. If you search online you will find that there are a number of boat salvage places that sell used parts. "Bennie via BoatKB.com" u31788@uwe wrote in message news:6ddfad6d9bcb4@uwe... I should have explained this thing is a long term project. It was all siezed up due to the engine not being covered. The guy who tried to fix it was a mechanical moron with even less electronics/electrical experience. The wiring loom engine and to the panel was totally fried and I have had to rewire 80% of this thing. It it not wrotten anywhere and the interior was all in good shape so that is why I have been spending time on it. The motor now runs like a sewing machine with good compression. What I did have to do was swop the carb with a van carb since it was corroded completely. My intention was to make a good one out the the original body and the levers etc from the van carb - but it seems to and run well with the van carb.... I have had to rebuild the remote motor control - it was siezed up too. The plate on the back that covers the gearing in the control and holds the two cables was broken. I am looking for a new one - any ideas? As a temporary measure I have plastered the back with JB weld and aluminium mesh and the put an extra mount for the cable extension onto the support panel. Am I making stupid assumptions? Additionally, I have made an engine alignment to so the crank/adaptor/stern shaft are all aligned well - within about 2mm in straight line and in height - am I correct with that? Thanks to you all for your "expert" advice. Bennie wrote: Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running while OUT the water I can leave it alone but I will definitely work out away to either relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Again brilliant advice from you all. Thanks. Anyone have more thoughts about the raw water pump and the possible need to cool the stern leg? I don' know if I need that...... I am a going mechanical and electronics guy - planes .....yes. Boats....not yet!! I did see that that alternator was not a Marine version but I have worked out a way to "seal" it so no sparks get out. The starter looks like a marine version though. Thanks again on the pump issue - almost certainley save me a bit of grief! When ign switch is off - no fuel.... [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] Eisboch -- Message posted via BoatKB.com http://www.boatkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/boats/200702/1 |
Stern Drive Conversion
James wrote: I'm not surpirsed about your alternator, I can not see anything about mine that makes it marine and I know for a fact it is the original merc alternatior. Depending on the set up. If the alternator is a Motorola (maybe labeled as "Prestolite" or "Leece Neville") ,Those little units are marine aproved because the brush assembly is totally enclosed and there is no way for sparks to "kaboom" any gas fumes. If it's a typical Delco car job, What the difference is, that the alternators are "hollow" and fumes enter the unit and with brushes exposed to air, you can get a spark. What is done to cure this is, to install a (Spark arrestor) screen kit, which has some fine mesh screening that bolts to the inside of the front housing (disassembly required) then a screened back cover. I suppose it works. Anyhow the screen kit isn't expensive. It's been a while since I bought one but it's less than $20.00. No rocket science to install, but takes 15-20 min. if you've never done one before. Only thing to remember, is to pin the brushs for assembly,put the housings together, but make sure you pull the pin before installing the back cap. The only reason I'm mentioning this, is if your alternator is a Delco, you should have a screen kit installed. In my area, I've never known of a boat blowing up because the Delco alt didn't have the screen kit installed, but if by chance there was an engine fire, and the ins. co. investigated, and the kit wasn't installed, the ins. co would probably have second thoughts for honoring a claim. |
Stern Drive Conversion
On Feb 16, 1:22 pm, "Tim" wrote:
James wrote: I'm not surpirsed about your alternator, I can not see anything about mine that makes it marine and I know for a fact it is the original merc alternatior. Depending on the set up. If the alternator is a Motorola (maybe labeled as "Prestolite" or "Leece Neville") ,Those little units are marine aproved because the brush assembly is totally enclosed and there is no way for sparks to "kaboom" any gas fumes. If it's a typical Delco car job, What the difference is, that the alternators are "hollow" and fumes enter the unit and with brushes exposed to air, you can get a spark. What is done to cure this is, to install a (Spark arrestor) screen kit, which has some fine mesh screening that bolts to the inside of the front housing (disassembly required) then a screened back cover. I suppose it works. Anyhow the screen kit isn't expensive. It's been a while since I bought one but it's less than $20.00. No rocket science to install, but takes 15-20 min. if you've never done one before. Only thing to remember, is to pin the brushs for assembly,put the housings together, but make sure you pull the pin before installing the back cap. The only reason I'm mentioning this, is if your alternator is a Delco, you should have a screen kit installed. In my area, I've never known of a boat blowing up because the Delco alt didn't have the screen kit installed, but if by chance there was an engine fire, and the ins. co. investigated, and the kit wasn't installed, the ins. co would probably have second thoughts for honoring a claim. I know my alternator is the original merc one so I think I'm ok as far as it being marine. |
Stern Drive Conversion
Really, the question was....... can I run a pre-Alpha with no water pump.
The closed cooling seems to have an engine driven raw water pump sucking through the hull. From the consensus here seems like I don't need to bother about it. I had been worried about the stern unit being cooled but I suppose it is pretty well submersed in the lake water anyway... Don Dando wrote: I tend to agree with you, what is your concern or question ? I would suspect that you may not find a water pump impeller either. Don Dando -- Message posted via BoatKB.com http://www.boatkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/boats/200702/1 |
Stern Drive Conversion
Got it...
Mike wrote: relay it via the oil pressure switch or something similar so it only feeds fuel if the crank is rotating. Ok, I want to make sure you really understand this... it's important. The fuel pump should only be working when the engine is cranking to *start*, OR there is oil pressure. When you're cranking the engine to start it, there is no oil pressure, but you need fuel. Once it's started, AND you have oil pressure, the fuel pump works as well. The scenario you want to avoid is a running engine, being fed fuel, with NO oil pressure. James' advice is dead on. The pump needs to be wired to the cranking terminal of the starter *AND* (not OR) to an oil pressure switch. --Mike Thanks for all that info - for the time being while I get this running while [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] Eisboch -- Message posted via BoatKB.com http://www.boatkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/boats/200702/1 |
Stern Drive Conversion
On Feb 16, 1:54 pm, "Bennie via BoatKB.com" u31788@uwe wrote:
Really, the question was....... can I run a pre-Alpha with no water pump. The closed cooling seems to have an engine driven raw water pump sucking through the hull. From the consensus here seems like I don't need to bother about it. I had been worried about the stern unit being cooled but I suppose it is pretty well submersed in the lake water anyway... Don Dando wrote: I tend to agree with you, what is your concern or question ? I would suspect that you may not find a water pump impeller either. Don Dando -- Message posted via BoatKB.comhttp://www.boatkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/boats/200702/1 Yes, the outdrive is cooled by being in the water. The water pump is to supply cooling water to the engine, not the drive. Some people add a drive shower for cooling the upper bearings in performance applications but that would not be your situation. |
Stern Drive Conversion
On Feb 16, 12:41 pm, "jamesgangnc" wrote:
On Feb 16, 1:22 pm, "Tim" wrote: James wrote: I'm not surpirsed about your alternator, I can not see anything about mine that makes it marine and I know for a fact it is the original merc alternatior. Depending on the set up. If the alternator is a Motorola (maybe labeled as "Prestolite" or "Leece Neville") ,Those little units are marine aproved because the brush assembly is totally enclosed and there is no way for sparks to "kaboom" any gas fumes. If it's a typical Delco car job, What the difference is, that the alternators are "hollow" and fumes enter the unit and with brushes exposed to air, you can get a spark. What is done to cure this is, to install a (Spark arrestor) screen kit, which has some fine mesh screening that bolts to the inside of the front housing (disassembly required) then a screened back cover. I suppose it works. Anyhow the screen kit isn't expensive. It's been a while since I bought one but it's less than $20.00. No rocket science to install, but takes 15-20 min. if you've never done one before. Only thing to remember, is to pin the brushs for assembly,put the housings together, but make sure you pull the pin before installing the back cap. The only reason I'm mentioning this, is if your alternator is a Delco, you should have a screen kit installed. In my area, I've never known of a boat blowing up because the Delco alt didn't have the screen kit installed, but if by chance there was an engine fire, and the ins. co. investigated, and the kit wasn't installed, the ins. co would probably have second thoughts for honoring a claim. I know my alternator is the original merc one so I think I'm ok as far as it being marine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I understand that, but many people don't. i thought I'd make my posting hoping somebody would read it, that is, before they took their typical Delco "car job" and "Marine--ized" it, by pumping the recitifier ports etc, full of Silicon sealer. Yes, I've seen that done before! |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:33 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com