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Default Propeller shaft stuffing box

Hello:
I have a 34' Columbia, 1974 with a Volvo/Penta MD-11C Diesel Engine.
The problem that I need some advice on is that my stuffing box is
leaking like a sive. The propeller shaft is 1 inch and I have backed of
the locknut and seen that there is absolutely nothing inside the
stuffing box/nut. So how do I know what size Teflon square cord to
buy. It could be 1/8th or 3/16th or 1/4 inch. Sombody told me to take a
tape measure and place it against the shaft and measure the distance to
the threads of the nut, but this is very inaccurate, it wiggles. Any
advice???

Thanks
Tyler Nelson

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Default Propeller shaft stuffing box

Tyler,
When you pulled the nut back, there was a sleeve that you had to pull
back to look into where the packing is (should be - it must be, it can't
get out). You need to buy packing that fits well in that space.
Measuring (if you even need to) it is usually easy. Then you have to
decide if you are going to cut rings or wrap the new packing.

Matt Colie



wrote:
Hello:
I have a 34' Columbia, 1974 with a Volvo/Penta MD-11C Diesel Engine.
The problem that I need some advice on is that my stuffing box is
leaking like a sive. The propeller shaft is 1 inch and I have backed of
the locknut and seen that there is absolutely nothing inside the
stuffing box/nut. So how do I know what size Teflon square cord to
buy. It could be 1/8th or 3/16th or 1/4 inch. Sombody told me to take a
tape measure and place it against the shaft and measure the distance to
the threads of the nut, but this is very inaccurate, it wiggles. Any
advice???

Thanks
Tyler Nelson

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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Nov 2006
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Default Propeller shaft stuffing box

The stuffing box nut has a recess that holds the packing. Its the
distance from the shaft to the inner surface of the recess that matters.
It can be hard to measure - you may need trial and error. You
normally put three layers of packing into the cup. If it doesn't look
like you can, I suspect there is old packing still in the cup, which
you will need to dig out. You cut the packing at an angle for each
layer, so the ends miter into each other. You arrange the joints to
be at different positions - usually about 120 degrees apart.

Once you tighten things up, it will still leak until the packing sets
and you get the right tension. It will run hot at first while the
packing is setting.

I run mine so it does not drip at all when not running, and drips a
few times a minute when running. You must have a drip when running - the
water lubricates the bearing surface.

Good luck.
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