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#1
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My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any reasonable speed. I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side. dual axle with 15 inch'rs. the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure. If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before I bring it home. Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias ply's? or go radial? I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer. pro's? con's? Thanks! |
#3
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any reasonable speed. I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side. dual axle with 15 inch'rs. the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure. If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before I bring it home. Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias ply's? or go radial? I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer. pro's? con's? Thanks! I have had both on my 4400# rig. Both tow well. Just make sure they are ST rated (trailer tires) and do not say Carlisle on the sidewall. Goodyear Marathons seem to be the best from hearsay, but my Towmaster from Les Schwab have done well. The Carlise had 4 failures in 15 months. |
#4
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OK, so radials are ok to run.
Carliles. I rememeber a thread about them. not good. Calif Bill wrote: wrote in message oups.com... My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any reasonable speed. I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side. dual axle with 15 inch'rs. the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure. If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before I bring it home. Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias ply's? or go radial? I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer. pro's? con's? Thanks! I have had both on my 4400# rig. Both tow well. Just make sure they are ST rated (trailer tires) and do not say Carlisle on the sidewall. Goodyear Marathons seem to be the best from hearsay, but my Towmaster from Les Schwab have done well. The Carlise had 4 failures in 15 months. |
#5
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Interesting coments on the Carlisle tires.
Although I have had many boats and trailers over the years, I have only noticed Carlisle to be the same as the other better makes. I had a 22 Trophy on a single axle that just ate up any tires because of max load for the tires. My local tire dealer and front end shop, very reputable in the area, states they are very good tires, although he sells other brands of ST tires as well. The absolute worst I have ever had were Green Ball brand sold by Discount Tire (had to buy there in a pinch), these pieces of %&&* blew out the side walls both within 500 miles and were horribly out of round. Anyway, I run ST 8 ply on my 25 ft Thompson hardtop, tandem, not sure of brand on there now, but when I bought it there were radials and they were fine, just got old and dry-rotted. wrote in message oups.com... OK, so radials are ok to run. Carlisle. I remember a thread about them. not good. Calif Bill wrote: wrote in message oups.com... My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any reasonable speed. I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side. dual axle with 15 inch'rs. the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure. If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before I bring it home. Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias ply's? or go radial? I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer. pro's? con's? Thanks! I have had both on my 4400# rig. Both tow well. Just make sure they are ST rated (trailer tires) and do not say Carlisle on the sidewall. Goodyear Marathons seem to be the best from hearsay, but my Towmaster from Les Schwab have done well. The Carlise had 4 failures in 15 months. |
#6
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posted to rec.boats
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Thanks for all comments.
Gene thank you. The term I used "heavy boat" is rathervague. I supose I was talking in comparison to my small ChrisCraft. compared to it, it is a lot heavier. The trailer was sold with the boat new in 1977 and came factory as OE. The tires on it are "ok" and did make the trip fine, but are one is a matched brand and tire profile.Two have mis mached treads. even though all four have the same load ratings. I really didn't know there was a difference in "trailer" and "automotive" tires. I've seen people use both. because the Goodyear Marathons have been highly spoken of, , I'm thinking of persuing them when I put the boat up and do maintenence on the trailer. Gene Kearns wrote: On 10 Nov 2006 18:35:01 -0800, penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any reasonable speed. I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side. dual axle with 15 inch'rs. the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure. If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before I bring it home. Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias ply's? or go radial? I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer. pro's? con's? Oh, yeah.... BIG time...... Let me give you my experiences from the ground up (assuming two axles): First, "heavy boat" is a meaningless term. Take the weight on the tires and divide by four.... that will determine the tire size that you will need. The radials vs. bias ply debate is logically over whether the tire has a sidewall that is designed to be towed or driven. I think the bottom line is to use a tire designed to be used on a trailer. IMHO, bias ply trailer tires are entirely adequate. Again, IMHO, do not use auto tires for a towed vehicle. Axles. Working backwards, if you find tires that will support the load but do not fit on the wheels attached to the axles.... BEWARE! 5 lug vs. 6 lug vs. 8 lug is a meaningful argument which I would be glad to debate. Bottom line, make sure the axle is designed to support at least the "weight on the tires" divided by 2. Brakes... if only one axles has brakes.... the reasonable capacity of the trailer is limited to the capacity of the ONE axle that has brakes. Oh, yeah.... I AM SAYING that there is a possibility that the trailer is undersized if not specifically designed for a HEAVY boat. FOREWARNED is forearmed. -- Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC. Homepage http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats |
#7
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BTW, the trailer does have hydrolic brakes on all four weels. and works
well. wrote: Thanks for all comments. Gene thank you. The term I used "heavy boat" is rathervague. I supose I was talking in comparison to my small ChrisCraft. compared to it, it is a lot heavier. The trailer was sold with the boat new in 1977 and came factory as OE. The tires on it are "ok" and did make the trip fine, but are one is a matched brand and tire profile.Two have mis mached treads. even though all four have the same load ratings. I really didn't know there was a difference in "trailer" and "automotive" tires. I've seen people use both. because the Goodyear Marathons have been highly spoken of, , I'm thinking of persuing them when I put the boat up and do maintenence on the trailer. Gene Kearns wrote: On 10 Nov 2006 18:35:01 -0800, penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any reasonable speed. I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side. dual axle with 15 inch'rs. the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure. If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before I bring it home. Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias ply's? or go radial? I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer. pro's? con's? Oh, yeah.... BIG time...... Let me give you my experiences from the ground up (assuming two axles): First, "heavy boat" is a meaningless term. Take the weight on the tires and divide by four.... that will determine the tire size that you will need. The radials vs. bias ply debate is logically over whether the tire has a sidewall that is designed to be towed or driven. I think the bottom line is to use a tire designed to be used on a trailer. IMHO, bias ply trailer tires are entirely adequate. Again, IMHO, do not use auto tires for a towed vehicle. Axles. Working backwards, if you find tires that will support the load but do not fit on the wheels attached to the axles.... BEWARE! 5 lug vs. 6 lug vs. 8 lug is a meaningful argument which I would be glad to debate. Bottom line, make sure the axle is designed to support at least the "weight on the tires" divided by 2. Brakes... if only one axles has brakes.... the reasonable capacity of the trailer is limited to the capacity of the ONE axle that has brakes. Oh, yeah.... I AM SAYING that there is a possibility that the trailer is undersized if not specifically designed for a HEAVY boat. FOREWARNED is forearmed. -- Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC. Homepage http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats |
#8
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![]() "Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 13:02:36 GMT, Gene Kearns wrote: Weightwise it will handle it, but when you hit the brakes, good things don't tend to happen in quantity. My trailer started life with brakes on one axle and I added the other axle's brakes after a few years. Stopping potential was immensely better. That's a logical assumption - adding hardware always increases potential. However, in the case of a trailer, stopping potential isn't really what trailer brakes are designed for. The stopping power is with the tow vehicle, the trailer braking systems, as I understand it, are only for controlling the trailer and do little to stop the tow vehicle. It's not like a tractor trailer combination. Later, I found justification for this in the following quote: "A rule of thumb for brake system capacity is to rate the brake system stopping capacity at the same value as the axle capacities. For example: If you have a tandem axle trailer with two 3500# axles, but only one of them has brakes, then you would be advised to calculate your best stopping capacity at 3500#. " borrowed from this article: http://www.championtrailers.com/Drum...BrakeArtcl.htm Interesting, but I have a couple of questions concerning their assumptions. First of all, the article assumes level roads, level loads and in the real world, in particular with tandem axles, that ain't necessarily so. Loads can be uneven, front to back and side to side which places different loads on all four tires. Uneven surfaces, such as a high crown in the road, place different stresses by shifting loads side-to-side. Corner braking - the list is endless. Additionally, you a dealing with hydrostatic, unboosted pressures on the individual units (in their scenario of four discs) which, to me at least, will introduce some instability in the pressures applied by one single actuation cylinder. Given a potential combination of uneven load, uneven surfaces and uneven brake pressure, I can't see where their assumptions, which are interesting, are accurate. I understand differently. Example: My truck has a GVW of 8,400 lbs. To meet federal stopping distance requirements, the brakes must be capable of stopping that weight in a certain distance from a certain speed. It does not include added weight of a trailer. Adding a trailer requires the trailer brakes to be capable of stopping the *trailer* GVW within the required distance. Most trailers with electric brakes can be *locked* if the gain for the controller is set too high. The fifth wheel I had was a triple axle and it had brakes on all 6 wheels. Eisboch |
#9
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![]() "Eisboch" wrote in message ... My truck has a GVW of 8,400 lbs. To meet federal stopping distance requirements, the brakes must be capable of stopping that weight in a certain distance from a certain speed. It does not include added weight of a trailer. Adding a trailer requires the trailer brakes to be capable of stopping the *trailer* GVW within the required distance. Most trailers with electric brakes can be *locked* if the gain for the controller is set too high. The fifth wheel I had was a triple axle and it had brakes on all 6 wheels. Eisboch Correction .... the truck's GVW is 11,400 lbs. |
#10
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