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[email protected] November 11th 06 02:35 AM

trailer tires
 
My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


Thanks!


-rick- November 11th 06 05:28 AM

trailer tires
 
wrote:
My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


Thanks!


I've had excellent performance using Goodyear Marathon
radials on a double axle trailer weighing about 4500lbs.
They handle well and have good traction in wet weather. I'm
about to replace them with the same model after 7 years and
~25,000 miles even though I could probably squeeze another
year out of them.

-rick-

http://www.goodyear.com/rv/products/marathon.html


Calif Bill November 11th 06 06:10 AM

trailer tires
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


Thanks!


I have had both on my 4400# rig. Both tow well. Just make sure they are ST
rated (trailer tires) and do not say Carlisle on the sidewall. Goodyear
Marathons seem to be the best from hearsay, but my Towmaster from Les Schwab
have done well. The Carlise had 4 failures in 15 months.



[email protected] November 11th 06 07:00 AM

trailer tires
 
OK, so radials are ok to run.

Carliles. I rememeber a thread about them.

not good.


Calif Bill wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


Thanks!


I have had both on my 4400# rig. Both tow well. Just make sure they are ST
rated (trailer tires) and do not say Carlisle on the sidewall. Goodyear
Marathons seem to be the best from hearsay, but my Towmaster from Les Schwab
have done well. The Carlise had 4 failures in 15 months.



MikeT November 11th 06 12:53 PM

trailer tires
 
Interesting coments on the Carlisle tires.
Although I have had many boats and trailers over the years, I have only
noticed Carlisle to be the same as the other better makes. I had a 22 Trophy
on a single axle that just ate up any tires because of max load for the
tires.

My local tire dealer and front end shop, very reputable in the area, states
they are very good tires, although he sells other brands of ST tires as
well.

The absolute worst I have ever had were Green Ball brand sold by Discount
Tire (had to buy there in a pinch), these pieces of %&&* blew out the side
walls both within 500 miles and were horribly out of round.

Anyway, I run ST 8 ply on my 25 ft Thompson hardtop, tandem, not sure of
brand on there now, but when I bought it there were radials and they were
fine, just got old and dry-rotted.


wrote in message
oups.com...
OK, so radials are ok to run.

Carlisle. I remember a thread about them.

not good.


Calif Bill wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


Thanks!


I have had both on my 4400# rig. Both tow well. Just make sure they are
ST
rated (trailer tires) and do not say Carlisle on the sidewall. Goodyear
Marathons seem to be the best from hearsay, but my Towmaster from Les
Schwab
have done well. The Carlise had 4 failures in 15 months.





[email protected] November 12th 06 04:51 AM

trailer tires
 
Thanks for all comments.

Gene thank you.

The term I used "heavy boat" is rathervague. I supose I was talking in
comparison to my small ChrisCraft. compared to it, it is a lot
heavier.

The trailer was sold with the boat new in 1977 and came factory as OE.
The tires on it are "ok" and did make the trip fine, but are one is a
matched brand and tire profile.Two have mis mached treads. even though
all four have the same load ratings.

I really didn't know there was a difference in "trailer" and
"automotive" tires.

I've seen people use both.

because the Goodyear Marathons have been highly spoken of, , I'm
thinking of persuing them when I put the boat up and do maintenence on
the trailer.



Gene Kearns wrote:
On 10 Nov 2006 18:35:01 -0800, penned the
following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


Oh, yeah.... BIG time......

Let me give you my experiences from the ground up (assuming two
axles):

First, "heavy boat" is a meaningless term. Take the weight on the
tires and divide by four.... that will determine the tire size that
you will need. The radials vs. bias ply debate is logically over
whether the tire has a sidewall that is designed to be towed or
driven. I think the bottom line is to use a tire designed to be used
on a trailer. IMHO, bias ply trailer tires are entirely adequate.
Again, IMHO, do not use auto tires for a towed vehicle.

Axles. Working backwards, if you find tires that will support the load
but do not fit on the wheels attached to the axles.... BEWARE! 5 lug
vs. 6 lug vs. 8 lug is a meaningful argument which I would be glad to
debate. Bottom line, make sure the axle is designed to support at
least the "weight on the tires" divided by 2.

Brakes... if only one axles has brakes.... the reasonable capacity of
the trailer is limited to the capacity of the ONE axle that has
brakes.

Oh, yeah.... I AM SAYING that there is a possibility that the trailer
is undersized if not specifically designed for a HEAVY boat.

FOREWARNED is forearmed.

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats



[email protected] November 12th 06 04:53 AM

trailer tires
 
BTW, the trailer does have hydrolic brakes on all four weels. and works
well.


wrote:
Thanks for all comments.

Gene thank you.

The term I used "heavy boat" is rathervague. I supose I was talking in
comparison to my small ChrisCraft. compared to it, it is a lot
heavier.

The trailer was sold with the boat new in 1977 and came factory as OE.
The tires on it are "ok" and did make the trip fine, but are one is a
matched brand and tire profile.Two have mis mached treads. even though
all four have the same load ratings.

I really didn't know there was a difference in "trailer" and
"automotive" tires.

I've seen people use both.

because the Goodyear Marathons have been highly spoken of, , I'm
thinking of persuing them when I put the boat up and do maintenence on
the trailer.



Gene Kearns wrote:
On 10 Nov 2006 18:35:01 -0800, penned the
following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


Oh, yeah.... BIG time......

Let me give you my experiences from the ground up (assuming two
axles):

First, "heavy boat" is a meaningless term. Take the weight on the
tires and divide by four.... that will determine the tire size that
you will need. The radials vs. bias ply debate is logically over
whether the tire has a sidewall that is designed to be towed or
driven. I think the bottom line is to use a tire designed to be used
on a trailer. IMHO, bias ply trailer tires are entirely adequate.
Again, IMHO, do not use auto tires for a towed vehicle.

Axles. Working backwards, if you find tires that will support the load
but do not fit on the wheels attached to the axles.... BEWARE! 5 lug
vs. 6 lug vs. 8 lug is a meaningful argument which I would be glad to
debate. Bottom line, make sure the axle is designed to support at
least the "weight on the tires" divided by 2.

Brakes... if only one axles has brakes.... the reasonable capacity of
the trailer is limited to the capacity of the ONE axle that has
brakes.

Oh, yeah.... I AM SAYING that there is a possibility that the trailer
is undersized if not specifically designed for a HEAVY boat.

FOREWARNED is forearmed.

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats



Eisboch November 12th 06 01:59 PM

trailer tires
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...

On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 13:02:36 GMT, Gene Kearns
wrote:

Weightwise it will handle it, but when you hit the brakes, good things
don't tend to happen in quantity. My trailer started life with brakes
on one axle and I added the other axle's brakes after a few years.
Stopping potential was immensely better.


That's a logical assumption - adding hardware always increases
potential.

However, in the case of a trailer, stopping potential isn't really
what trailer brakes are designed for. The stopping power is with the
tow vehicle, the trailer braking systems, as I understand it, are only
for controlling the trailer and do little to stop the tow vehicle.
It's not like a tractor trailer combination.

Later, I found justification for this in the following quote:

"A rule of thumb for brake system capacity is to rate the brake system
stopping capacity at the same value as the axle capacities.
For example: If you have a tandem axle trailer with two 3500# axles,
but only one of them has brakes, then you would be advised to
calculate your best stopping capacity at 3500#. "

borrowed from this article:

http://www.championtrailers.com/Drum...BrakeArtcl.htm


Interesting, but I have a couple of questions concerning their
assumptions.

First of all, the article assumes level roads, level loads and in the
real world, in particular with tandem axles, that ain't necessarily
so. Loads can be uneven, front to back and side to side which places
different loads on all four tires. Uneven surfaces, such as a high
crown in the road, place different stresses by shifting loads
side-to-side. Corner braking - the list is endless.

Additionally, you a dealing with hydrostatic, unboosted pressures on
the individual units (in their scenario of four discs) which, to me at
least, will introduce some instability in the pressures applied by one
single actuation cylinder. Given a potential combination of uneven
load, uneven surfaces and uneven brake pressure, I can't see where
their assumptions, which are interesting, are accurate.



I understand differently. Example:

My truck has a GVW of 8,400 lbs. To meet federal stopping distance
requirements, the brakes must be capable of stopping that weight in a
certain distance from a certain speed. It does not include added weight of
a trailer.

Adding a trailer requires the trailer brakes to be capable of stopping the
*trailer* GVW within the required distance.

Most trailers with electric brakes can be *locked* if the gain for the
controller is set too high.
The fifth wheel I had was a triple axle and it had brakes on all 6 wheels.

Eisboch






Eisboch November 12th 06 02:06 PM

trailer tires
 

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...


My truck has a GVW of 8,400 lbs. To meet federal stopping distance
requirements, the brakes must be capable of stopping that weight in a
certain distance from a certain speed. It does not include added weight
of a trailer.

Adding a trailer requires the trailer brakes to be capable of stopping the
*trailer* GVW within the required distance.

Most trailers with electric brakes can be *locked* if the gain for the
controller is set too high.
The fifth wheel I had was a triple axle and it had brakes on all 6 wheels.

Eisboch


Correction .... the truck's GVW is 11,400 lbs.



Jack Redington November 12th 06 07:05 PM

trailer tires
 
wrote:

My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


Thanks!


I had radials (daal axle) on the trailer that I used for a 21 ft
Crownline cuddy (210ccr) 3900lbs dry. Originally It had bias plys, they
were looking poorly so I replaced them with radials. The whole rig just
towed nicer with the radials. But in the end if you are not going to tow
it a lot after you get the boat home I think I would just stick with the
less expensive tires.

Capt Jack R..


RG November 14th 06 07:09 PM

trailer tires
 

However, in the case of a trailer, stopping potential isn't really
what trailer brakes are designed for. The stopping power is with the
tow vehicle, the trailer braking systems, as I understand it, are only
for controlling the trailer and do little to stop the tow vehicle.
It's not like a tractor trailer combination.


It might start to lean in that direction in certain situations. My truck
weighs about 7,200 pounds empty. The boat and trailer weigh in at 14,200
pounds, or about double the weight of the tow vehicle. While that ratio is
not as extreme as a loaded tractor/trailer combo, it's starting to move in
that direction, and I damn sure expect the six braking wheels on the trailer
to do their part in stopping the entire rig in addition to providing trailer
control.



RG November 14th 06 07:11 PM

trailer tires
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
My little 18 ft ChrisCraft has a single axle shoreline trailer, which
was evidently standard with this model of boat. it has 14" tires. the
previous owner installed new Radials on it. and it tows nicely at any
reasonable speed.

I'm about to go get a 22 ft. Marquis cuddy. kind of on the heavy side.
dual axle with 15 inch'rs.

the tires are 4 ply Bias-ply tires, which supossedly arnt rotted, and I
think will make the 300 mi trip ok. But then again, I'm not sure.


If I thinkt he tires are questionable in any way, I'll reshoe it before
I bring it home.

Out of curiosity, this is a heavy boat. should I go back to the bias
ply's? or go radial?

I've heard some people say not to use radials on a dual axle trailer.

pro's? con's?


These are quite good, and available in just about any size and load rating
you would need.

http://www.titantires.com/trailertires.htm



[email protected] November 14th 06 09:35 PM

trailer tires
 
You must have quite a boat!

Thanks for the link....


RG wrote:
These are quite good, and available in just about any size and load rating
you would need.

http://www.titantires.com/trailertires.htm



Calif Bill November 14th 06 11:29 PM

trailer tires
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 19:09:27 GMT, "RG" wrote:


However, in the case of a trailer, stopping potential isn't really
what trailer brakes are designed for. The stopping power is with the
tow vehicle, the trailer braking systems, as I understand it, are only
for controlling the trailer and do little to stop the tow vehicle.
It's not like a tractor trailer combination.


It might start to lean in that direction in certain situations. My truck
weighs about 7,200 pounds empty. The boat and trailer weigh in at 14,200
pounds, or about double the weight of the tow vehicle. While that ratio
is
not as extreme as a loaded tractor/trailer combo, it's starting to move in
that direction, and I damn sure expect the six braking wheels on the
trailer
to do their part in stopping the entire rig in addition to providing
trailer
control.


I accept that trailers in most situations need stopping power and I
agree that in larger trailers, they are part of the stopping solution.

What I disagree with is boats like my Ranger which has rear mounted
surge disc brakes and as far as I can tell, have very little effect on
braking - the truck does most of the "braking".


That is because you got crappy, out of adjustment drum brakes. I changed to
disk brakes, Kodiak, and you can definitely tell the difference. And that
is towing 4400# with a 3/4 diesel.



Calif Bill November 15th 06 12:46 AM

trailer tires
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 23:29:26 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 19:09:27 GMT, "RG" wrote:


However, in the case of a trailer, stopping potential isn't really
what trailer brakes are designed for. The stopping power is with the
tow vehicle, the trailer braking systems, as I understand it, are only
for controlling the trailer and do little to stop the tow vehicle.
It's not like a tractor trailer combination.


It might start to lean in that direction in certain situations. My
truck
weighs about 7,200 pounds empty. The boat and trailer weigh in at
14,200
pounds, or about double the weight of the tow vehicle. While that ratio
is
not as extreme as a loaded tractor/trailer combo, it's starting to move
in
that direction, and I damn sure expect the six braking wheels on the
trailer
to do their part in stopping the entire rig in addition to providing
trailer
control.

I accept that trailers in most situations need stopping power and I
agree that in larger trailers, they are part of the stopping solution.

What I disagree with is boats like my Ranger which has rear mounted
surge disc brakes and as far as I can tell, have very little effect on
braking - the truck does most of the "braking".


That is because you got crappy, out of adjustment drum brakes.


BBBZZZZTTTT!!! Wrong.

I changed to disk brakes, Kodiak, and you can definitely tell the
difference. And that is towing 4400# with a 3/4 diesel.


That's what I have on the trailer now. I retro fitted two years ago.

And I still can't tell the difference.


Are they working. Or your boat is light weight. Or you are towing with a
Geo Metro and can not get the brakes to actuate.




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