Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left in
the block. Thanks in advance. David

That's the theory but I don't subscribe to it. For one thing you need
to make sure the thermostat is open and that's hard to do idling in the
drive. The merc cooling system thermostat bypasses the block when
closed and the incoming raw water goes straight to the exhaust
manifolds.

The only thing I use the pink stuff for is our jetski. The boat I
drain the block, manifolds, and the power steering cooler and leave the
plugs out till spring.

D&LBusch wrote:
Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left in
the block. Thanks in advance. David

On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 03:55:09 GMT, "D&LBusch" wrote:

Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left in
the block. Thanks in advance. David


Once the anti-freeze is running out the exhaust, you're good to go.

"JohnH" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 03:55:09 GMT, "D&LBusch"
wrote:

Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left in
the block. Thanks in advance. David


Once the anti-freeze is running out the exhaust, you're good to go.

Not necessarily so. The cooling system is designed so that the majority of
the water that comes in, goes straight to the manifolds and or risers, then
out the exhaust. That is true even if the thermostat is wide open, which it
almost never is, while idling. The question is: How much of that -50 doo doo
do you have to use to displace all of the water in the engine using the
engine running, flush method with the "engine winterizing kit".
Jim

"D&LBusch" wrote in message
...
Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left in
the block. Thanks in advance. David



I used that method 2 years ago. I ran the engine above idle for about 10
minutes until the engine temp gauge was a 170F. I then diverted the cooling
water to the tank storing the 50/50. I think it took about 3 1/2 gallons
of 50/50 before I was confident that it was through the engine so I fogged
and stalled it. Lastly I removed the thermostat and poured a gallon of
50/50 down the thermostat housing.....just to make sure. ;-)

It was a fairly cold winter and the engine survived just fine.

This year I let the marina take care of it and will do so in the
future.........too much to lose if you goof up while winterizing the engine
yourself. It's not rocket science but why take the chance?

D&LBusch wrote:
Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left in
the block. Thanks in advance. David



For my I/O & inboard customers, I drain everything, every petcock, and
then go w/ 100 percent anti-freeze at the water pump / muffs. There is
no way to get ALL the water out of all jackets/manifolds/block, so I get
some intermix, to less than 100 percent A/F, and run it until I get a
good A/F discharge at the exhaust.

Never a failure. Worst case scenario in -30F storage would be a little
"slush" in the engine, causing no damage.

Rob

"trainfan1" wrote in message
news

For my I/O & inboard customers, I drain everything, every petcock, and
then go w/ 100 percent anti-freeze at the water pump / muffs. There is no
way to get ALL the water out of all jackets/manifolds/block, so I get some
intermix, to less than 100 percent A/F, and run it until I get a good A/F
discharge at the exhaust.

Never a failure. Worst case scenario in -30F storage would be a little
"slush" in the engine, causing no damage.

Rob


Obviously you have never met Skipper. If he were here, he'd jump right in
and correct you on your method.

Eisboch

D&LBusch wrote:
Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left in
the block. Thanks in advance. David




We run water through the muffs until the engine gets up to operating
temp. Then shut down and drain the risers and block (4 plugs). Then run
the "red pop" (you can use the purple stuff if you are way up north)
until it is flowing out the exhaust.....takes about 5-6 gallons for a
5.0 mercruiser. Then fog it. Haven't had a problem.

The marina service charges about 200 and engine and another 150 to
"recommision" in the spring. (they don't run the "red pop" through
it,...just drain the lines and pull off the hoses)

Total cost is about $30 compared to $700 through the marina.

"P Fritz" wrote in message
...
D&LBusch wrote:
Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left
in the block. Thanks in advance. David

what I do is after my motors are warmed I pull the plugs to drain the water
and any sediment that you have sucked up. then reinstall the plugs and suck
up 5 gal of the pink stuff and fogg then go the extra mile and pull the
plugs to drain the pink stuff. I have done this for 8 years in northern Iowa
with no problems.

D&LBusch wrote:
Do I need to drain the block and hoses if I'm using one of those coolant
kits that attaches to the muffs on the outdrive? It would appear not.
since it is sucking in the Anti Freeze and will displace any water left in
the block. Thanks in advance. David

On my 3.0 alpha1, I drain the block via the petcock on the side of the
engine, also pull the little brass plug from the bottom of the exhaust
manifold and drain it. Then pull the radiator hoses, and dump in the
pink stuff untill I see it running out of the block and the manifold.
leave them un capped and the hoses off.

Then pull the water hose going down to the impeller and flush the pink
stuff to it, untill it is draining out of the water intake.

I've done that for two years and no problems, even when here in the
midwest, we had some "record" sustaining cold.

I also pull the battery and put it in the log splitter, where it gets
charged and ran quite regularly.