Shortwave Sportfishing wrote:
On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 19:29:31 -0400, "r_d"
wrote:

To answer your question you should use 30wt oil. I would also tune it
(plugs, rotor, distributor and new fuel filter) before winterizing it. The
fuel filter looks like an oil filter usually mounted somewhere close to the
engine.

If I owned an inboard, I'd do the opposite - fog it, then change
everything in the Spring.

Then again, I'm an outboard guy - what do I know. :)

You definitely want to change the oil when you winterize, you don't want
the "acid oil" sitting around all winter.

Shortwave Sportfishing wrote:
On Mon, 02 Oct 2006 01:22:24 -0400, "Reginald P. Smithers III"
wrote:

Shortwave Sportfishing wrote:
On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 19:29:31 -0400, "r_d"
wrote:

To answer your question you should use 30wt oil. I would also tune it
(plugs, rotor, distributor and new fuel filter) before winterizing it. The
fuel filter looks like an oil filter usually mounted somewhere close to the
engine.
If I owned an inboard, I'd do the opposite - fog it, then change
everything in the Spring.

Then again, I'm an outboard guy - what do I know. :)
You definitely want to change the oil when you winterize, you don't want
the "acid oil" sitting around all winter.

Like I said, I'm a outboard guy. :)

Outboard is definitely easier to winterize. I do the engine maintenance
when i winterize, and then wash and wax the boat in the spring time.
It takes about an hour to flush out the fresh water system and attach
the hoses to the engine. By doing the engine / outdrive work in the
winter, you keep your recommissioning down to one day.

I have always carried my batteries home because someone told me that the
freezing weather is bad for a battery. If this is not the case, it
would be nice to leave the batteries on the boat.