Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I agree about getting water to it. Also that you can break things if
you don't understand how they work. These things are a bit of a rube goldburg with basically the bottom half of an outboard attached to the end of a car engine and how they are put together is sometimes not what you would think it would be. For example it needs to be in gear (forward I think) to remove the outdrive. You do not want to run it for any time at all without water. The way they work is that the outdrive gets power all the time and the actual gear engagement/disengagement is in the bottom of the outdrive right behind the prop. In the shaft in the ourdrive going down to that area is a rubber impeller pump that should not be run dry. You should see some water pickup ports on the sides of the outdrive. That is how they pump lake water up to cool the engine and exhaust. After the water cools the engine it gets dumped into the exhaust to cool it. The outdrive has a lube plug on the side near the top and another down at the bottom. It is filled with marine 90wt. You really need some muffs and you can get them at a boat store pretty cheap. It is worrying that it makes a noise between the engine and the prop. Did you get any indication from the person that gave it to you that it should work? It might have shifting problems and you are hearing the gears skipping. It has no clutches, you just engage the gears when you shift it. Or one of the gear sets could be shot. As is obvious it has to transfer the engine spin from horzontal to vertical and then back to horizontal. There is a rubber coupling on the flywheel where you would expect to find a clutch in a car. These strip out sometimes and that's another possibility. A service manual would really help you. The details have changed a bit but even if you borrow a newer service manual for a merc alpha from a friend it would give you a general idea of how the thing works. Rand_man50 via BoatKB.com wrote: Ok, I pulled the fuel filter water seperator apart and it had gas coming to it, and there was also gas getting to the carb, I guess it just took it a while to get through the lines to the carb. For a while it would start for about 2 seconds and die, so I tried it with the throttle up a little. It started like that, so I figured it just wasn't getting enough gas at idle so I turned up the idle on the carb. Now it runs! It makes a clattery noise that sounds like its coming from somewhere between the engine and the propellor. I don't think it's the engine but I dont want to leave it on too long because I don't have one of those muff things. I also don't know where to look for that lube plug thing you were talking about. Is that to lubricate the transmission or something? I checked out the floor and it seems pretty solid, not too much bounce. I ripped out all the interior since it had been sitting in somebody's yard for 3 years, and I don't see any sagging spots. Also the hull looks pretty solid. There seems to be a lot I don't know about boat engines that could get me in trouble. I don't wan't to get it running and then blow it up. Is there any web site or something I could check out to make sure I don't screw up too bad? Thanks a lot for your help so far, I didn't even know where to start. -- Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com |
#2
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I got some muffs and ran it for a while. I found the source of the clattering.
It's coming from right behind the prop, like you said. It only does it in neutral. Every time it clatters you can see the prop hop forward a little. When I engage it in forward it stops making noise and the prop starts spinning. when I try to put it in reverse at low rpm it clatters even more. If I turn up the throttle some it finally seems to drop into gear and starts spinning in reverse. I'll look for those grease plugs like you said. -- Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com |
#3
![]()
posted to rec.boats
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Shift cable adjustment. That's can be a bit tricky too as it not only puts
it into gear but to get them out of gear there are a couple switches that interupt the ignition. Another rube goldburg if you ask me. The gears are cut so the engine torque holds them in. But then when the prop is pushing against the water you can't get it out of gear worth a damn. So they put switches in that actually stall the engine for a second so you can get the gears apart. The whole deal only works when it is in the water too. When it is on land there is no resistance pushing back on the prop. Try just adjusting the cable that goes to the out drive and not the one that comes from the shifter. The plugs are screw in plugs, not grease fittings. They will be flush. Sounds like you're doing pretty good so far :-) That free boat might just be all right. "Rand_man50 via BoatKB.com" u26765@uwe wrote in message news:667d99a762e85@uwe... I got some muffs and ran it for a while. I found the source of the clattering. It's coming from right behind the prop, like you said. It only does it in neutral. Every time it clatters you can see the prop hop forward a little. When I engage it in forward it stops making noise and the prop starts spinning. when I try to put it in reverse at low rpm it clatters even more. If I turn up the throttle some it finally seems to drop into gear and starts spinning in reverse. I'll look for those grease plugs like you said. -- Message posted via http://www.boatkb.com |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Help please on Bravo stern drive water pump | Cruising | |||
Does anyone know how to manually lower the stern Drive | Boat Building | |||
Volvo Penta Stern Drive | Boat Building | |||
Volvo Penta Stern Drive | General | |||
Info on SportCraft C-Eagle w/ mercruiser i/o stern drive | General |