Removing a bolt
 

JimH wrote:
"basskisser" wrote in message
oups.com...

wrote:
gorf wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat
engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the
donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail.

The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom
of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and
no
matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench)
nothing will budge this thing.

Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the
bolt is.


six sided 1/2 inch drive socket and a long breaker bar. Since it is a
donor
anyway, what does it matter if you break the bolt?

tried that, and it just rounded over the bolt (and then I did more
rounding over with the vice grips, intermixed with four letter words).

Craftsman makes some sockets that are made to work on rounded bolts.
They are really nice. The more torque the tighter they grasp.


Nice series of positive contributions Kevin. Good advice! ;-)

I'm not Kevin, you twit. Grow up.

Removing a bolt
 

JimH wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...
I went out today, and bought some of the BP Blaster stuff. The guy at
GI Joes (the store I got it from) was very adiment that it was the best
stuff out there. So hopefully I'll have another bolt off tonite.

thanks again guys.


I have heard the same thing about PB Blaster.

There is nothing better than Mouse Milk. My uncle used it when he was a
aviation machinist many years ago, told me about it, I found out they
still make the stuff. I only use it when nothing else works because
it's mail order.

Removing a bolt
 

"basskisser" wrote in message
oups.com...

JimH wrote:
"basskisser" wrote in message
oups.com...

wrote:
gorf wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one
boat
engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the
donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail.

The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the
bottom
of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part)
and
no
matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench)
nothing will budge this thing.

Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where
the
bolt is.


six sided 1/2 inch drive socket and a long breaker bar. Since it is
a
donor
anyway, what does it matter if you break the bolt?

tried that, and it just rounded over the bolt (and then I did more
rounding over with the vice grips, intermixed with four letter words).

Craftsman makes some sockets that are made to work on rounded bolts.
They are really nice. The more torque the tighter they grasp.


Nice series of positive contributions Kevin. Good advice! ;-)

I'm not Kevin, you twit. Grow up.


Kevin, you are the only person I know who could come back with an insult
after I complimented you.

Oh my.

Removing a bolt
 

Gene wrote:

Why fight it? If it is a donor motor.... center punch the head of the
bolt head and carefully drill it out with a drill a few thousandths
smaller than the size of the bolt threads.

Once the head is off... you can probably remove the remainder of the
bolt with a stud extractor, anyway....
--

Id rather not make the donor motor 100% donor motor. It ran the last
time I checked it (a few years ago now) and my goal is to get it up and
running too (why, tho, I'm not sure) on a boat of it's own.

Removing a bolt
 

wrote in message
...
On 9 Sep 2006 07:13:27 -0700, wrote:

Id rather not make the donor motor 100% donor motor. It ran the last
time I checked it (a few years ago now) and my goal is to get it up and
running too (why, tho, I'm not sure) on a boat of it's own.

If you grind the head off the bolt you will be able to get a better
grab on it once the cylinder head is off. Then you can work the
blaster or whayever around the base of the threads. I doubt a screw
extractor will be much help. Heat is usually the trick that works.
Aluminum expands faster than steel.

I'm curious why you doubt a screw extractor will help. This is exactly what
they're designed for. I've used them and they work.

Removing a bolt
 

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 09 Sep 2006 15:19:46 GMT, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote:

I'm curious why you doubt a screw extractor will help. This is exactly
what
they're designed for. I've used them and they work.

If you couldn't break the bolt loose with a properly sized SIX POINT
socket, how is a smaller extractor which tends to make the bolt bigger
going to do anything?
If it's stuck, 12 point sockets suck!!!
If you did the same amount of prep work (heat, solvent etc) as people
use by the time they get to the extractor stage, before you rounded
the head off in the first place, the bolt would have come out with the
socket.
When you are working on an outboard, or anything with steel threaded
into aluminum, if it isn't coming out easy, STOP!
Use the heat and solvent before you trash the bolt.
At a certain point, grinding the head off may be the easiest option.
Then you have something to grab onto and you can get to the base of
the trhreads. Extractrors are for bolts broken off flush and if it was
that easy you wouldn't have broken the bolt in the first place.

Use antisieze on everything when you go back together.

I guess the several successes I've had were hallucinations, caused by an
overdose of Cheerios & strawberries, or whatever I had for breakfast when I
used extractors in the past.

In the cartoons and childrens' books where extractors are used, they work
because they exert their force over a much larger surface area than a socket
on the head of the offending bolt. But, this is just a fantasy. And you have
cooties.

Removing a bolt
 

On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 10:15:42 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:

Heat the block around the bolt and hammer on the head. Not so much
hammering that you damage it but enough to break loose the rust some.
If you have to dril it out start with a small bit and try to get as
exactly in the middle and drill as straight as possible. Then work up
the drill bits sizes.

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned an impact wrench. Pneumatic is nice,
but not necessary. There are manual impact wrenches.

http://www.mysimon.com/Tools-and-Har...mlpid=31740648

Removing a bolt
 

(vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench)
nothing will budge this thing.

Any suggestions?

I see BP Blaster suggested I am not familiar with that product. I am
familiar with Kroil/AeroKroil from kanolabs.com , which to me is FM*!
Try taking apart a diesel turbine mount Impossible without this stuff.
It is a superpenetrant, Spray on a few times a day, and tap with a
hammer, or try heating the block (heat lamp a few hours), and dry
iceing the bolt, guaranteed removel. Just be patient, and save the
grinder/dynamite/etc for last resort. Good luck, time works. Please
take reasonable fire precautions.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

*friggin magic
Den

Removing a bolt
 

On Sat, 09 Sep 2006 13:29:36 -0700, den wrote:

(vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench)
nothing will budge this thing.

Any suggestions?

I see BP Blaster suggested I am not familiar with that product. I am
familiar with Kroil/AeroKroil from kanolabs.com , which to me is FM*!
Try taking apart a diesel turbine mount Impossible without this stuff.
It is a superpenetrant, Spray on a few times a day, and tap with a
hammer, or try heating the block (heat lamp a few hours), and dry
iceing the bolt, guaranteed removel. Just be patient, and save the
grinder/dynamite/etc for last resort. Good luck, time works. Please
take reasonable fire precautions.

http://www.kanolabs.com/

*friggin magic
Den

Kroil *is* great stuff, but Kanolabs doesn't seem overly interested in
retail sales. BP Blaster, on the other hand, is readily available at the
local auto-parts store.

Removing a bolt
 

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On 9 Sep 2006 07:13:27 -0700, penned the
following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:


Gene wrote:

Why fight it? If it is a donor motor.... center punch the head of the
bolt head and carefully drill it out with a drill a few thousandths
smaller than the size of the bolt threads.

Once the head is off... you can probably remove the remainder of the
bolt with a stud extractor, anyway....
--

Id rather not make the donor motor 100% donor motor. It ran the last
time I checked it (a few years ago now) and my goal is to get it up and
running too (why, tho, I'm not sure) on a boat of it's own.

I say again.... Once the head is off... you can probably remove the
remainder of the bolt with a stud extractor, anyway....

with over thirty years experience in machine shop I can assure you
that your approach to removal with lock grip pliers and other
implements of destruction will only yield.... well..... JUST a donor
motor...

--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats