|
Removing a bolt
I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat
engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. |
Removing a bolt
|
Removing a bolt
wrote in message
ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. Check out this very cool tool. It's saved me a few times over the years. Home Depot might carry them, but good luck getting one of their idiots on the phone to go check for you. Try tool specialty stores, plumbing supply places, etc. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html |
Removing a bolt
JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. Check out this very cool tool. It's saved me a few times over the years. Home Depot might carry them, but good luck getting one of their idiots on the phone to go check for you. Try tool specialty stores, plumbing supply places, etc. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html I've got a whole set commonly called easy outs! But in his case it sounds like it hasn't broken off flush, yet! |
Removing a bolt
wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. six sided 1/2 inch drive socket and a long breaker bar. Since it is a donor anyway, what does it matter if you break the bolt? |
Removing a bolt
"basskisser" wrote in message
ups.com... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. Check out this very cool tool. It's saved me a few times over the years. Home Depot might carry them, but good luck getting one of their idiots on the phone to go check for you. Try tool specialty stores, plumbing supply places, etc. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html I've got a whole set commonly called easy outs! But in his case it sounds like it hasn't broken off flush, yet! It may still work, though. If he drills deep enough into the bolt, most of the turning force would be within the shaft, not the head of the bolt. |
Removing a bolt
Heat the block around the bolt and hammer on the head. Not so much
hammering that you damage it but enough to break loose the rust some. If you have to dril it out start with a small bit and try to get as exactly in the middle and drill as straight as possible. Then work up the drill bits sizes. wrote: I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. |
Removing a bolt
basskisser wrote: wrote: I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. Provide a picture, please. And knowing what we are working with will help too. Outboard? sorry, I was in a bit of a rush when I wrote the first post. it's on a 65 Evrinrude, outboard (75 horse). The pictures are of a 62 Johnson (same hp). http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...n/HPIM1935.jpg |
Removing a bolt
gorf wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. six sided 1/2 inch drive socket and a long breaker bar. Since it is a donor anyway, what does it matter if you break the bolt? tried that, and it just rounded over the bolt (and then I did more rounding over with the vice grips, intermixed with four letter words). |
Removing a bolt
JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. Check out this very cool tool. It's saved me a few times over the years. Home Depot might carry them, but good luck getting one of their idiots on the phone to go check for you. Try tool specialty stores, plumbing supply places, etc. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html I just found out my dad has some of those, so I'll try to borrow his. |
Removing a bolt
wrote in message
oups.com... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. Check out this very cool tool. It's saved me a few times over the years. Home Depot might carry them, but good luck getting one of their idiots on the phone to go check for you. Try tool specialty stores, plumbing supply places, etc. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html I just found out my dad has some of those, so I'll try to borrow his. If access to the bolt is difficult (and when do problems occur in easy places anyway?), you might want to practice a couple of times on one that's more accessible. By the way, these tools are also great for removing stuck valve seats in old style faucets, when the previous handyman has stripped out the surfaces that the valve seat tool would normally grab. |
Removing a bolt
JoeSpareBedroom wrote: If access to the bolt is difficult (and when do problems occur in easy places anyway?), you might want to practice a couple of times on one that's more accessible. By the way, these tools are also great for removing stuck valve seats in old style faucets, when the previous handyman has stripped out the surfaces that the valve seat tool would normally grab. I removed the part that was in the way of the lowest bolt (seen in the picture I linked. I didn't remove it on this engine, as I was able to get that bolt out easily. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../HPIM1935.jpg). Im sure I'll be able to figure something out, as thankfully I don't need to "fix" this boat till next year (in the sense that I'm not paying $$ to registure it for 4 months. I know in Oregon (atleast) you pay for 2 years...and they don't pro-rate it.) So if it sits for a while, I'll be ok with it. I'll just cover up the engines, and take out my frustrations on something else. ;) To all those who provided some, thanks for the info. |
Removing a bolt
JoeSpareBedroom wrote: "basskisser" wrote in message ups.com... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. Check out this very cool tool. It's saved me a few times over the years. Home Depot might carry them, but good luck getting one of their idiots on the phone to go check for you. Try tool specialty stores, plumbing supply places, etc. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html I've got a whole set commonly called easy outs! But in his case it sounds like it hasn't broken off flush, yet! It may still work, though. If he drills deep enough into the bolt, most of the turning force would be within the shaft, not the head of the bolt. And what happens a lot is just the drilling into the shaft loosens the bolt some from vibration. As someone else has posted here, it also helps to heat the portion of metal that is surrounding the bolt. Thermal expansion is your friend! |
Removing a bolt
|
Removing a bolt
JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. Check out this very cool tool. It's saved me a few times over the years. Home Depot might carry them, but good luck getting one of their idiots on the phone to go check for you. Try tool specialty stores, plumbing supply places, etc. http://www.mytoolstore.com/hanson/extractr.html I bought the Mickey Mouse 'Craftsman' version that Bob Vila flogs. The one time I tried to use a bit... it was useless. |
Removing a bolt
Don't confuse WD-40 or Liquid Wrench with PB Blaster. That stuff
works like nothing I have ever seen. I'll second that. PB beats the others. One other approach you might want to take, is to turn the engine on it's side, put a wrench on the bolt and rig a 20 pound weight on one end being very liberal with the PB Blaster. Tap on the head of the bolt a few times with a hammer, apply the PB, rig up the wrench/weight and wait a few hours. Repeat. Give it about twelve hours and it will come free. Yep, got some seriously frozen brake caliper bolts loose this way. Otherwise, if you can remove the item with the bolt shaft still in the block then drill or grind off the head of the bolt. That's assuming torque doesn't snap it off anyway. |
Removing a bolt
"basskisser" wrote in message oups.com... wrote: gorf wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. six sided 1/2 inch drive socket and a long breaker bar. Since it is a donor anyway, what does it matter if you break the bolt? tried that, and it just rounded over the bolt (and then I did more rounding over with the vice grips, intermixed with four letter words). Craftsman makes some sockets that are made to work on rounded bolts. They are really nice. The more torque the tighter they grasp. Nice series of positive contributions Kevin. Good advice! ;-) |
Removing a bolt
I went out today, and bought some of the BP Blaster stuff. The guy at
GI Joes (the store I got it from) was very adiment that it was the best stuff out there. So hopefully I'll have another bolt off tonite. thanks again guys. |
Removing a bolt
wrote in message oups.com... I went out today, and bought some of the BP Blaster stuff. The guy at GI Joes (the store I got it from) was very adiment that it was the best stuff out there. So hopefully I'll have another bolt off tonite. thanks again guys. I have heard the same thing about PB Blaster. |
Removing a bolt
JimH wrote: "basskisser" wrote in message oups.com... wrote: gorf wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. six sided 1/2 inch drive socket and a long breaker bar. Since it is a donor anyway, what does it matter if you break the bolt? tried that, and it just rounded over the bolt (and then I did more rounding over with the vice grips, intermixed with four letter words). Craftsman makes some sockets that are made to work on rounded bolts. They are really nice. The more torque the tighter they grasp. Nice series of positive contributions Kevin. Good advice! ;-) I'm not Kevin, you twit. Grow up. |
Removing a bolt
JimH wrote: wrote in message oups.com... I went out today, and bought some of the BP Blaster stuff. The guy at GI Joes (the store I got it from) was very adiment that it was the best stuff out there. So hopefully I'll have another bolt off tonite. thanks again guys. I have heard the same thing about PB Blaster. There is nothing better than Mouse Milk. My uncle used it when he was a aviation machinist many years ago, told me about it, I found out they still make the stuff. I only use it when nothing else works because it's mail order. |
Removing a bolt
"basskisser" wrote in message oups.com... JimH wrote: "basskisser" wrote in message oups.com... wrote: gorf wrote: wrote in message ups.com... I have an issue with a bolt on one of the cylinder heads on one boat engine I have. I need to swap cylinder heads on the boats, and the donor boat is fighting me tooth and nail. The problem is that 1 bolt will not come off. It's towards the bottom of the engine (I had to take off part of the engine cover part) and no matter what I do (vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I can provide pictures to better explain where the bolt is. six sided 1/2 inch drive socket and a long breaker bar. Since it is a donor anyway, what does it matter if you break the bolt? tried that, and it just rounded over the bolt (and then I did more rounding over with the vice grips, intermixed with four letter words). Craftsman makes some sockets that are made to work on rounded bolts. They are really nice. The more torque the tighter they grasp. Nice series of positive contributions Kevin. Good advice! ;-) I'm not Kevin, you twit. Grow up. Kevin, you are the only person I know who could come back with an insult after I complimented you. Oh my. |
Removing a bolt
Gene wrote: Why fight it? If it is a donor motor.... center punch the head of the bolt head and carefully drill it out with a drill a few thousandths smaller than the size of the bolt threads. Once the head is off... you can probably remove the remainder of the bolt with a stud extractor, anyway.... -- Id rather not make the donor motor 100% donor motor. It ran the last time I checked it (a few years ago now) and my goal is to get it up and running too (why, tho, I'm not sure) on a boat of it's own. |
Removing a bolt
wrote in message
... On 9 Sep 2006 07:13:27 -0700, wrote: Id rather not make the donor motor 100% donor motor. It ran the last time I checked it (a few years ago now) and my goal is to get it up and running too (why, tho, I'm not sure) on a boat of it's own. If you grind the head off the bolt you will be able to get a better grab on it once the cylinder head is off. Then you can work the blaster or whayever around the base of the threads. I doubt a screw extractor will be much help. Heat is usually the trick that works. Aluminum expands faster than steel. I'm curious why you doubt a screw extractor will help. This is exactly what they're designed for. I've used them and they work. |
Removing a bolt
wrote in message
... On Sat, 09 Sep 2006 15:19:46 GMT, "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote: I'm curious why you doubt a screw extractor will help. This is exactly what they're designed for. I've used them and they work. If you couldn't break the bolt loose with a properly sized SIX POINT socket, how is a smaller extractor which tends to make the bolt bigger going to do anything? If it's stuck, 12 point sockets suck!!! If you did the same amount of prep work (heat, solvent etc) as people use by the time they get to the extractor stage, before you rounded the head off in the first place, the bolt would have come out with the socket. When you are working on an outboard, or anything with steel threaded into aluminum, if it isn't coming out easy, STOP! Use the heat and solvent before you trash the bolt. At a certain point, grinding the head off may be the easiest option. Then you have something to grab onto and you can get to the base of the trhreads. Extractrors are for bolts broken off flush and if it was that easy you wouldn't have broken the bolt in the first place. Use antisieze on everything when you go back together. I guess the several successes I've had were hallucinations, caused by an overdose of Cheerios & strawberries, or whatever I had for breakfast when I used extractors in the past. In the cartoons and childrens' books where extractors are used, they work because they exert their force over a much larger surface area than a socket on the head of the offending bolt. But, this is just a fantasy. And you have cooties. |
Removing a bolt
On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 10:15:42 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
Heat the block around the bolt and hammer on the head. Not so much hammering that you damage it but enough to break loose the rust some. If you have to dril it out start with a small bit and try to get as exactly in the middle and drill as straight as possible. Then work up the drill bits sizes. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned an impact wrench. Pneumatic is nice, but not necessary. There are manual impact wrenches. http://www.mysimon.com/Tools-and-Har...mlpid=31740648 |
Removing a bolt
(vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I see BP Blaster suggested I am not familiar with that product. I am familiar with Kroil/AeroKroil from kanolabs.com , which to me is FM*! Try taking apart a diesel turbine mount Impossible without this stuff. It is a superpenetrant, Spray on a few times a day, and tap with a hammer, or try heating the block (heat lamp a few hours), and dry iceing the bolt, guaranteed removel. Just be patient, and save the grinder/dynamite/etc for last resort. Good luck, time works. Please take reasonable fire precautions. http://www.kanolabs.com/ *friggin magic Den |
Removing a bolt
On Sat, 09 Sep 2006 13:29:36 -0700, den wrote:
(vice grips, socket, soak it with liquid wrench) nothing will budge this thing. Any suggestions? I see BP Blaster suggested I am not familiar with that product. I am familiar with Kroil/AeroKroil from kanolabs.com , which to me is FM*! Try taking apart a diesel turbine mount Impossible without this stuff. It is a superpenetrant, Spray on a few times a day, and tap with a hammer, or try heating the block (heat lamp a few hours), and dry iceing the bolt, guaranteed removel. Just be patient, and save the grinder/dynamite/etc for last resort. Good luck, time works. Please take reasonable fire precautions. http://www.kanolabs.com/ *friggin magic Den Kroil *is* great stuff, but Kanolabs doesn't seem overly interested in retail sales. BP Blaster, on the other hand, is readily available at the local auto-parts store. |
Removing a bolt
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On 9 Sep 2006 07:13:27 -0700, penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: Gene wrote: Why fight it? If it is a donor motor.... center punch the head of the bolt head and carefully drill it out with a drill a few thousandths smaller than the size of the bolt threads. Once the head is off... you can probably remove the remainder of the bolt with a stud extractor, anyway.... -- Id rather not make the donor motor 100% donor motor. It ran the last time I checked it (a few years ago now) and my goal is to get it up and running too (why, tho, I'm not sure) on a boat of it's own. I say again.... Once the head is off... you can probably remove the remainder of the bolt with a stud extractor, anyway.... with over thirty years experience in machine shop I can assure you that your approach to removal with lock grip pliers and other implements of destruction will only yield.... well..... JUST a donor motor... -- Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC. Homepage http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats |
Removing a bolt
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On 9 Sep 2006 07:13:27 -0700, penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: Gene wrote: Why fight it? If it is a donor motor.... center punch the head of the bolt head and carefully drill it out with a drill a few thousandths smaller than the size of the bolt threads. Once the head is off... you can probably remove the remainder of the bolt with a stud extractor, anyway.... -- Id rather not make the donor motor 100% donor motor. It ran the last time I checked it (a few years ago now) and my goal is to get it up and running too (why, tho, I'm not sure) on a boat of it's own. I say again.... Once the head is off... you can probably remove the remainder of the bolt with a stud extractor, anyway.... with over thirty years experience in machine shop I can assure you that your approach to removal with lock grip pliers and other implements of destruction will only yield.... well..... JUST a donor motor... -- Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC. Homepage http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats BlazerFanDan.......take a minute to read Gene's credentials listed on his homepage.........pretty impressive. When Gene speaks on matter relating to machining and tooling everyone stops and listens. ;-) |
Removing a bolt
thunder wrote: On Fri, 08 Sep 2006 10:15:42 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote: Heat the block around the bolt and hammer on the head. Not so much hammering that you damage it but enough to break loose the rust some. If you have to dril it out start with a small bit and try to get as exactly in the middle and drill as straight as possible. Then work up the drill bits sizes. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned an impact wrench. Pneumatic is nice, but not necessary. There are manual impact wrenches. http://www.mysimon.com/Tools-and-Har...mlpid=31740648 Wouldn't do any good on a bolt with a rounded off head as he has described. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:13 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com