jamesgangnc wrote:

This is an interesting topic. I've always thought the add to the gas
cleaners were sort of snake oil. After all gas it's self is a pretty
good dissolver, what could be in these cleaners that would do it better
but still not be so corrosive that it ate up all the gaskets. Anyone
really take a carb apart, look at, put it back together, run a can of
cleaner through, and then take it back apart and see what got cleaned?
That would really tell the tale.

I have pulled my carbs and cleaned the jets with fine wire, and that seems
to do the job. I have used Stabil and SeaFoam(cleaner and gas stabilizer), but
for season use, I'm just adding Mercury's Quick Silver solvent to the gas. Works

for me, but the true test is when you take the engine out of storage to start it.



I've always been in a quandry about carbs with float bowls too. I add
stabilizer to my boat gas and fill the tank as winterizing but it
mostly evaporates from the float bowls over the winter anyway.
Merc/chevy small block with a holley on it. I figure the stabilizer is
good for the gas in the tank but the carb problems are typically
because the gas evaporates and leaves crud on the inside of the jets.

On my generator, which we only use once in a rare while, I shut the
fuel valve at the tank and let the engine burn as much as it can from
the float bowl. I do periodically run the thing but I always shut it
down by turning off the fuel.

I've thought about adding a valve to the boat gas line right at the
carb so I could do the same thing to it.

Most carbs on marine engines, lawn mowers, and generators have a
drain screw for that purpose. A few of the cheaper models don't have it.


I hope Steve is running his engine dry before storage and opening this
drain plug to purge any remaining gas.

Sherwin D.



basskisser wrote:
Roadrunner Newsgroup wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good carb cleaner fuel additive that works? I try to
run out all my fuel after use (with stabil in it) but I would like to know
if there is an additive that can remove the gum from the idle circuit and
float needle that eventually builds up. I have a 1972 50hp Johnson and I
have rebuilt the 2 carbs but it is starting to get a little gunked up again.
It's been 4 years since the rebuild. It is a freshwater Northern boat that
sits for the winter. One of the 2 float needles seems to stick and free up
now and then. Unfortunately it only gets used about 25 hours per year.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

If they are gunked up, I'd rebuild them again, then use preventative
measures to keep them that way, using Stabil and starting once in
awhile as Clams has said.

I do run the engine dry of fuel with stabil mixed but don't drain the bowls.
I will check to see if there are accessible screws at the bottom of the
bowls. I had thought that the stabil would keep the fuel in the bowls
"stabil" as per the stabil 800 line, but I would rather remove as much fuel
as possible.

Steve


"sherwindu" wrote in message
...


jamesgangnc wrote:

This is an interesting topic. I've always thought the add to the gas
cleaners were sort of snake oil. After all gas it's self is a pretty
good dissolver, what could be in these cleaners that would do it better
but still not be so corrosive that it ate up all the gaskets. Anyone
really take a carb apart, look at, put it back together, run a can of
cleaner through, and then take it back apart and see what got cleaned?
That would really tell the tale.

I have pulled my carbs and cleaned the jets with fine wire, and that
seems
to do the job. I have used Stabil and SeaFoam(cleaner and gas
stabilizer), but
for season use, I'm just adding Mercury's Quick Silver solvent to the
gas. Works

for me, but the true test is when you take the engine out of storage to
start it.



I've always been in a quandry about carbs with float bowls too. I add
stabilizer to my boat gas and fill the tank as winterizing but it
mostly evaporates from the float bowls over the winter anyway.
Merc/chevy small block with a holley on it. I figure the stabilizer is
good for the gas in the tank but the carb problems are typically
because the gas evaporates and leaves crud on the inside of the jets.

On my generator, which we only use once in a rare while, I shut the
fuel valve at the tank and let the engine burn as much as it can from
the float bowl. I do periodically run the thing but I always shut it
down by turning off the fuel.

I've thought about adding a valve to the boat gas line right at the
carb so I could do the same thing to it.

Most carbs on marine engines, lawn mowers, and generators have a
drain screw for that purpose. A few of the cheaper models don't have
it.


I hope Steve is running his engine dry before storage and opening this
drain plug to purge any remaining gas.

Sherwin D.



basskisser wrote:
Roadrunner Newsgroup wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good carb cleaner fuel additive that works? I
try to
run out all my fuel after use (with stabil in it) but I would like to
know
if there is an additive that can remove the gum from the idle circuit
and
float needle that eventually builds up. I have a 1972 50hp Johnson
and I
have rebuilt the 2 carbs but it is starting to get a little gunked up
again.
It's been 4 years since the rebuild. It is a freshwater Northern boat
that
sits for the winter. One of the 2 float needles seems to stick and
free up
now and then. Unfortunately it only gets used about 25 hours per
year.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

If they are gunked up, I'd rebuild them again, then use preventative
measures to keep them that way, using Stabil and starting once in
awhile as Clams has said.

Roadrunner Newsgroup wrote:
I do run the engine dry of fuel with stabil mixed but don't drain the bowls.
I will check to see if there are accessible screws at the bottom of the
bowls. I had thought that the stabil would keep the fuel in the bowls
"stabil" as per the stabil 800 line, but I would rather remove as much fuel
as possible.

I'm not sure that Stabil will do anything in regards to evaporation,
and what's left over from that evaporation. I do know that it does work
in keeping gas that's left in a tank getting "stale" as it is generally
called.

Stabil treatment will not last forever. Certainly it will lose potency over a
winter
layup. Getting out all the gas is good insurance. I have more confidence in
products
like Mercury Quick Silver Cleaner, than I do in Stabil, although I still use
Stabil in my
lawnmower gas. Maybe using both will be helpful.

Sherwin D.

Roadrunner Newsgroup wrote:

I do run the engine dry of fuel with stabil mixed but don't drain the bowls.
I will check to see if there are accessible screws at the bottom of the
bowls. I had thought that the stabil would keep the fuel in the bowls
"stabil" as per the stabil 800 line, but I would rather remove as much fuel
as possible.

Steve

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...


jamesgangnc wrote:

This is an interesting topic. I've always thought the add to the gas
cleaners were sort of snake oil. After all gas it's self is a pretty
good dissolver, what could be in these cleaners that would do it better
but still not be so corrosive that it ate up all the gaskets. Anyone
really take a carb apart, look at, put it back together, run a can of
cleaner through, and then take it back apart and see what got cleaned?
That would really tell the tale.

I have pulled my carbs and cleaned the jets with fine wire, and that
seems
to do the job. I have used Stabil and SeaFoam(cleaner and gas
stabilizer), but
for season use, I'm just adding Mercury's Quick Silver solvent to the
gas. Works

for me, but the true test is when you take the engine out of storage to
start it.



I've always been in a quandry about carbs with float bowls too. I add
stabilizer to my boat gas and fill the tank as winterizing but it
mostly evaporates from the float bowls over the winter anyway.
Merc/chevy small block with a holley on it. I figure the stabilizer is
good for the gas in the tank but the carb problems are typically
because the gas evaporates and leaves crud on the inside of the jets.

On my generator, which we only use once in a rare while, I shut the
fuel valve at the tank and let the engine burn as much as it can from
the float bowl. I do periodically run the thing but I always shut it
down by turning off the fuel.

I've thought about adding a valve to the boat gas line right at the
carb so I could do the same thing to it.

Most carbs on marine engines, lawn mowers, and generators have a
drain screw for that purpose. A few of the cheaper models don't have
it.


I hope Steve is running his engine dry before storage and opening this
drain plug to purge any remaining gas.

Sherwin D.



basskisser wrote:
Roadrunner Newsgroup wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good carb cleaner fuel additive that works? I
try to
run out all my fuel after use (with stabil in it) but I would like to
know
if there is an additive that can remove the gum from the idle circuit
and
float needle that eventually builds up. I have a 1972 50hp Johnson
and I
have rebuilt the 2 carbs but it is starting to get a little gunked up
again.
It's been 4 years since the rebuild. It is a freshwater Northern boat
that
sits for the winter. One of the 2 float needles seems to stick and
free up
now and then. Unfortunately it only gets used about 25 hours per
year.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

If they are gunked up, I'd rebuild them again, then use preventative
measures to keep them that way, using Stabil and starting once in
awhile as Clams has said.

Go to your local NAPA store and pick up a can of Sea Foam and dump the whole
can in the tank. It might take a couple of tanks to clean out the really
dirty systems. It'll keep your fuel system happy, and once you've cleaned
the system out, a few ounces every other tank will keep it clean.




"Roadrunner Newsgroup" wrote in message
...
Can anyone recommend a good carb cleaner fuel additive that works? I try
to run out all my fuel after use (with stabil in it) but I would like to
know if there is an additive that can remove the gum from the idle circuit
and float needle that eventually builds up. I have a 1972 50hp Johnson and
I have rebuilt the 2 carbs but it is starting to get a little gunked up
again. It's been 4 years since the rebuild. It is a freshwater Northern
boat that sits for the winter. One of the 2 float needles seems to stick
and free up now and then. Unfortunately it only gets used about 25 hours
per year.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Better have some good filters inline to catch all the junk that breaks off. The
carb
jets on a 4-stroke outboard are quite fine and it doesn't take much to block
them up.

Sherwin D.

Jack/Cast-Aways wrote:

Go to your local NAPA store and pick up a can of Sea Foam and dump the whole
can in the tank. It might take a couple of tanks to clean out the really
dirty systems. It'll keep your fuel system happy, and once you've cleaned
the system out, a few ounces every other tank will keep it clean.

"Roadrunner Newsgroup" wrote in message
...
Can anyone recommend a good carb cleaner fuel additive that works? I try
to run out all my fuel after use (with stabil in it) but I would like to
know if there is an additive that can remove the gum from the idle circuit
and float needle that eventually builds up. I have a 1972 50hp Johnson and
I have rebuilt the 2 carbs but it is starting to get a little gunked up
again. It's been 4 years since the rebuild. It is a freshwater Northern
boat that sits for the winter. One of the 2 float needles seems to stick
and free up now and then. Unfortunately it only gets used about 25 hours
per year.

Thanks in advance,

Steve