A question on thermostats
 

Both the 140 and the 160 should work fine. As another poster pointed
out in raw water cooling the use of a 140 helps slow the effects of
salt water. I would install a 160 next time I had a reason to take it
out but I would not make a special exercise out of replacing it. If
you previously have had overheating issues your mechanic may have been
trying to mitigate other problems by running a lower temp thermostat.
The water leaving your engine and going into your manifolds and risers
should be cooler with the 140.

JimH wrote:
JohnH wrote:
On 9 Jul 2006 15:53:13 -0700, "JimH" wrote:


JohnH wrote:
On 9 Jul 2006 05:46:35 -0700, "JimH" wrote:


JohnH wrote:
On Sat, 8 Jul 2006 21:58:21 -0400, " JimH"
jimhUNDERSCOREosudad@yahooDOTcom wrote:


" JimH" jimhUNDERSCOREosudad@yahooDOTcom wrote in message
...
My Seloc repair manual for my 1997 Volvo Penta 4.3L with and SX outdrive
says the engine takes a 160F thermostat. That is what I installed in
spring.

The mechanic who worked on my boat after the overheating incident says it
takes a 140F thermostat and that is what he installed.

Does anyone know the correct thermostat temperature rating for this
engine?

Will running the wrong thermostat temp have a negative effect on the
engine's performance?

TIA!


Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I will be telling the marina to
install a 160F thermostat...........on them. ;-)


No problem, JimH. Glad to help you out.
John H

******************************************
***** Have a Spectacular Day! *****
******************************************


Sorry John, but you did not help out (I failed to find any good and
meaninful advice you offered on the thermostat) and the thanks was
certainly not directed to you.

Have a superfragilistic day!!!!

Well, I'm certainly sorry the web site with the part numbers and the advice
on the manifolds and risers wasn't helpful. Who knows, maybe you'll get 15
years out of them - set a record!

Your response, after I unkillfiled you so I could be helpful, was mean and
spiteful. I thought, since you'd not told any lies or called anyone an
asshole for more than 48 hours, that you'd turned over a new leaf.

I'm glad to hear all is well with the boat, and I hope the problems with
the basement work themselves out. I've thought of getting a generator, but
have decided that the cost and hassle is not worth it. If I lost all the
food in my freezer and refrigerator, it would be nowhere near $4000-5000
worth of food.
--
John H

******************************************
***** Have a Spectacular Day! *****
******************************************

Sorry if I hurt your feeling John. All you did was post a site that
listed thermostats. Prior to that you kept telling me to replace my
risers and manifolds. Can you get it in your head that I boat in
freshwater and the engine has low hours?

You did not help me with this thermostat question and if telling you so
was mean and spiteful then you are one of the most sensitive persons I
have ever met on the net.

Look back at your initial post John to see who made the mean and
spiteful remark.

Keep up with the lies and nasty remarks about me, ..


OK! I'll do that!
--
John H

******************************************
***** Have a Spectacular Day! *****
******************************************



No doubt about it. ;-)

A question on thermostats
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
ups.com...
Both the 140 and the 160 should work fine. As another poster pointed
out in raw water cooling the use of a 140 helps slow the effects of
salt water. I would install a 160 next time I had a reason to take it
out but I would not make a special exercise out of replacing it. If
you previously have had overheating issues your mechanic may have been
trying to mitigate other problems by running a lower temp thermostat.
The water leaving your engine and going into your manifolds and risers
should be cooler with the 140.


Thanks!

I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.

Thanks again for your advice and comments. ;-)

A question on thermostats
 

JimH wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
ups.com...
Both the 140 and the 160 should work fine. As another poster pointed
out in raw water cooling the use of a 140 helps slow the effects of
salt water. I would install a 160 next time I had a reason to take it
out but I would not make a special exercise out of replacing it. If
you previously have had overheating issues your mechanic may have been
trying to mitigate other problems by running a lower temp thermostat.
The water leaving your engine and going into your manifolds and risers
should be cooler with the 140.


Thanks!

I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.

Thanks again for your advice and comments. ;-)



That seems like a wide range of temperatures for a fresh water cooled
engine. Did you mention the wide range of temp. to your mechanic?

--
Reggie

That's my story and I am sticking to it!

A question on thermostats
 

Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
JimH wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
ups.com...
Both the 140 and the 160 should work fine. As another poster pointed
out in raw water cooling the use of a 140 helps slow the effects of
salt water. I would install a 160 next time I had a reason to take it
out but I would not make a special exercise out of replacing it. If
you previously have had overheating issues your mechanic may have been
trying to mitigate other problems by running a lower temp thermostat.
The water leaving your engine and going into your manifolds and risers
should be cooler with the 140.


Thanks!

I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.

Thanks again for your advice and comments. ;-)



That seems like a wide range of temperatures for a fresh water cooled
engine. Did you mention the wide range of temp. to your mechanic?

--
Reggie

That's my story and I am sticking to it!

Give it up Reggie. Then understand this message..........as I told you
before I would never consider any boating or mechanical advice you
offer. You have chosen to keep quiet about your boating background,
the boat you own, where you boat, amongst other things. For all I know
the only boat you own is the one you take a bath with.

Try opening up and folks might start listening to you. Until then,
please stop cluttering up this thread.

A question on thermostats
 

JimH wrote:
Reginald P. Smithers III wrote:
JimH wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
ups.com...
Both the 140 and the 160 should work fine. As another poster pointed
out in raw water cooling the use of a 140 helps slow the effects of
salt water. I would install a 160 next time I had a reason to take it
out but I would not make a special exercise out of replacing it. If
you previously have had overheating issues your mechanic may have been
trying to mitigate other problems by running a lower temp thermostat.
The water leaving your engine and going into your manifolds and risers
should be cooler with the 140.

Thanks!

I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.

Thanks again for your advice and comments. ;-)


That seems like a wide range of temperatures for a fresh water cooled
engine. Did you mention the wide range of temp. to your mechanic?

--
Reggie

That's my story and I am sticking to it!

Give it up Reggie. Then understand this message..........as I told you
before I would never consider any boating or mechanical advice you
offer. You have chosen to keep quiet about your boating background,
the boat you own, where you boat, amongst other things. For all I know
the only boat you own is the one you take a bath with.

Try opening up and folks might start listening to you. Until then,
please stop cluttering up this thread.


JimH,
I am not offering any advice, I made the observation that that seems
like a wide range of temp for a fresh water cooled engine, and thought
you might want to mention it to your mechanic. My boats temp never
ranged more than 10 degrees.

Really I am not cluttering up this thread, I am doing my best to try to
open this thread to discussion from other boaters and those with
mechanical skills way beyond yours and mine. If everyone keeps the
personal attacks out of threads we would have more boating discussions
and less name calling.

--
Reggie

That's my story and I am sticking to it!

A question on thermostats
 

"JimH" wrote in message
oups.com...


I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at
cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower
temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.



Is that engine raw water cooled or does it have a heat exchanger and closed
loop cooling?

Eisboch

A question on thermostats
 

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"JimH" wrote in message
oups.com...


I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at
cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower
temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.



Is that engine raw water cooled or does it have a heat exchanger and
closed loop cooling?

Eisboch


Raw (fresh) water cooled. The good news is that the temp never got above
165. The bad news is that it fluctuated to an extreme. I am concerned
about the way the temperature is bouncing around as I am used to seeing it
rise to a certain temp and stay there.

I will definitely be bringing the boat to a reputable mechanic at the end of
the season to take a close look at the engine, knowing a rebuild or
replacement may be the result. I don't, however, want to throw away the
rest of the season by doing that now if I can limp through this problem
without causing further damage to the engine or causing another overheat
situation.

A question on thermostats
 

" JimH" jimhUNDERSCOREosudad@yahooDOTcom wrote in message
...

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"JimH" wrote in message
oups.com...


I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at
cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower
temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.



Is that engine raw water cooled or does it have a heat exchanger and
closed loop cooling?

Eisboch


Raw (fresh) water cooled. The good news is that the temp never got above
165. The bad news is that it fluctuated to an extreme. I am concerned
about the way the temperature is bouncing around as I am used to seeing it
rise to a certain temp and stay there.

I will definitely be bringing the boat to a reputable mechanic at the end
of the season to take a close look at the engine, knowing a rebuild or
replacement may be the result. I don't, however, want to throw away the
rest of the season by doing that now if I can limp through this problem
without causing further damage to the engine or causing another overheat
situation.



My memory is bad, but if I recall correctly the raw water cooled 350
Mercruiser clone engine that I had in an old 26' Century 10-11 years ago
normally ran at about 140-145 degrees, even at full throttle. Then one day,
out of the blue, it suddenly started to climb up to the 160 -165 degree
range. Manifolds were shot. I realize you run in fresh water and the
manifolds should last a little longer, but something sounds familiar here.
Sorry to give you more to worry about, but the manifold failure can be
sudden and disastrous for the engine under the right (or wrong)
circumstances.

Maybe someone with more accurate knowledge or memory will elaborate.

Eisboch

A question on thermostats
 

Eisboch wrote:
" JimH" jimhUNDERSCOREosudad@yahooDOTcom wrote in message
...

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"JimH" wrote in message
oups.com...


I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at
cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower
temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.



Is that engine raw water cooled or does it have a heat exchanger and
closed loop cooling?

Eisboch


Raw (fresh) water cooled. The good news is that the temp never got above
165. The bad news is that it fluctuated to an extreme. I am concerned
about the way the temperature is bouncing around as I am used to seeing it
rise to a certain temp and stay there.

I will definitely be bringing the boat to a reputable mechanic at the end
of the season to take a close look at the engine, knowing a rebuild or
replacement may be the result. I don't, however, want to throw away the
rest of the season by doing that now if I can limp through this problem
without causing further damage to the engine or causing another overheat
situation.



My memory is bad, but if I recall correctly the raw water cooled 350
Mercruiser clone engine that I had in an old 26' Century 10-11 years ago
normally ran at about 140-145 degrees, even at full throttle. Then one day,
out of the blue, it suddenly started to climb up to the 160 -165 degree
range. Manifolds were shot. I realize you run in fresh water and the
manifolds should last a little longer, but something sounds familiar here.
Sorry to give you more to worry about, but the manifold failure can be
sudden and disastrous for the engine under the right (or wrong)
circumstances.

Maybe someone with more accurate knowledge or memory will elaborate.

Eisboch

Thanks Richard!

A question on thermostats
 

On Mon, 10 Jul 2006 18:11:08 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:


" JimH" jimhUNDERSCOREosudad@yahooDOTcom wrote in message
...

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"JimH" wrote in message
oups.com...


I did notice the temperature ran at 135 when at idle, at 140~145 at
cruise
and at 160~165 at WOT, then back down immediately to a lower
temperature
when at cruise or idle.

I plan to keep the 140 in the rest of the season.



Is that engine raw water cooled or does it have a heat exchanger and
closed loop cooling?

Eisboch


Raw (fresh) water cooled. The good news is that the temp never got above
165. The bad news is that it fluctuated to an extreme. I am concerned
about the way the temperature is bouncing around as I am used to seeing it
rise to a certain temp and stay there.

I will definitely be bringing the boat to a reputable mechanic at the end
of the season to take a close look at the engine, knowing a rebuild or
replacement may be the result. I don't, however, want to throw away the
rest of the season by doing that now if I can limp through this problem
without causing further damage to the engine or causing another overheat
situation.



My memory is bad, but if I recall correctly the raw water cooled 350
Mercruiser clone engine that I had in an old 26' Century 10-11 years ago
normally ran at about 140-145 degrees, even at full throttle. Then one day,
out of the blue, it suddenly started to climb up to the 160 -165 degree
range. Manifolds were shot. I realize you run in fresh water and the
manifolds should last a little longer, but something sounds familiar here.
Sorry to give you more to worry about, but the manifold failure can be
sudden and disastrous for the engine under the right (or wrong)
circumstances.

Maybe someone with more accurate knowledge or memory will elaborate.

Eisboch


When they decide to go, it can be a costly mess.
--
******************************************
***** Have a Spectacular Day! *****
******************************************

John