Since I'm at the lower end of the RPM range, I'm not sure going up in
pitch
would be a wise choice.

Going down a couple of inches in pitch will get you to the higher end of
your WOT RPM and should help out the top end a bit. Like I said something
else is keeping the speed down. Have you checked it with a GPS? It's
possible that you're going faster than the speedo shows.

--Mike




"Josh Assing" wrote in message
...
Going UP in pitch can help your top end, but will also LOWER the RPMs
(higher gear on a car). Going DOWN in pitch will help your LOW end (hole
shot), and will RAISE ypur RPMs and possible over rev.

Something else is holding your speed down.

Righto.. Thanks.

I knew that going down in pitch would raise the rpm -- but I was wondering
if
the increased RPM would help with the top end at all.

Since I'm at the lower end of the RPM range, I'm not sure going up in
pitch
would be a wise choice.


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Going down a couple of inches in pitch will get you to the higher end of
your WOT RPM and should help out the top end a bit. Like I said something
else is keeping the speed down. Have you checked it with a GPS? It's
possible that you're going faster than the speedo shows.

"A bit" doesn't sound like much. ;-)

GPS verified speed as near accurate (actually slower than what was reported on
the speedo, but considering the tide -- that would be expected)

Any ideas on what could keep the speed down by 10mph?

The original "Matched Options" book has this listed:

High Performance Propellers
V-6, 3.8, 4.3 Litre "1980 thru" OMC Racker14.5x24 = 50-60mph!

Whole cow; that's fast batman

But up 5" in pitch? yikes; that certainly would bog down & overwork the engine.

The prop does have a few dings in the end.

A trial today with glass like water got me to 35mph @ 4600 rpm; so maybe I will
go up in pitch


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"A bit" doesn't sound like much. ;-)

You're right, just tossin' out ideas.

V-6, 3.8, 4.3 Litre "1980 thru" OMC Racker14.5x24 = 50-60mph!
Whole cow; that's fast batman

Atomic batteries to power...turbines to speed... g

Speaking of props, what material is yours? A few dings will make a
difference, but certainly not 10-15mph. A stainless prop gets a better
"bite" on the water, but is also very expensive (compared to aluminum). I
had a 22p stainless prop on my 4.3L 18' reinell, and she got to about 45mph.
Can you turn the prop by hand at all when it is in gear? I don't know if you
can "partially" spin a prop from it's hub, but if it's slipping under load,
that would certainly account for a lower top end. Slower out of the hole as
well.

--Mike


"Josh Assing" wrote in message
news
Going down a couple of inches in pitch will get you to the higher end of
your WOT RPM and should help out the top end a bit. Like I said something
else is keeping the speed down. Have you checked it with a GPS? It's
possible that you're going faster than the speedo shows.

"A bit" doesn't sound like much. ;-)

GPS verified speed as near accurate (actually slower than what was
reported on
the speedo, but considering the tide -- that would be expected)

Any ideas on what could keep the speed down by 10mph?

The original "Matched Options" book has this listed:

High Performance Propellers
V-6, 3.8, 4.3 Litre "1980 thru" OMC Racker14.5x24 = 50-60mph!

Whole cow; that's fast batman

But up 5" in pitch? yikes; that certainly would bog down & overwork the
engine.

The prop does have a few dings in the end.

A trial today with glass like water got me to 35mph @ 4600 rpm; so maybe I
will
go up in pitch


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You're right, just tossin' out ideas.

That's why I'm here -- for ideas!

Speaking of props, what material is yours? A few dings will make a

Aluminum

had a 22p stainless prop on my 4.3L 18' reinell, and she got to about 45mph.

OK -- so that's pretty close to the same boat - right? (18' 4.3L gm motor....)

Can you turn the prop by hand at all when it is in gear? I don't know if you
can "partially" spin a prop from it's hub, but if it's slipping under load,
that would certainly account for a lower top end. Slower out of the hole as

I'll check it out tonight.
Hole shot is very fast tho...

Thanks!

-josh


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Speaking of props, what material is yours? A few dings will make a
difference, but certainly not 10-15mph. A stainless prop gets a better
"bite" on the water, but is also very expensive (compared to aluminum). I
had a 22p stainless prop on my 4.3L 18' reinell, and she got to about 45mph.
Can you turn the prop by hand at all when it is in gear? I don't know if you
can "partially" spin a prop from it's hub, but if it's slipping under load,
that would certainly account for a lower top end. Slower out of the hole as
well.

OK - boat is out of the water -- lots of barnicles (small ones) mostly on the
sides, not on the V part too much. some other round thing guys too.

Lots of algae...

I pressure washed the bottom, then scraped most of the barnicles off -- probably
need to put some bottom paint on -- but I won't be able to get to that tomorrow
(Needs to be really cleaned & sanded 1st)

The prop -- it's pretty dinged along ever edge -- and isn't even at all.

The outdrive -- the fin that goes "down" Looks like it got ground down a bit, I
have no reference for how big that fin should be; but there's some unpained
aluminum and it's rough like it's been pulled out of the water with the outdrive
down. I think that's OK -- and if not; can build up a new fin at a welding shop
I'm sure.

NOW, the real question is -- should it "curve" to the side (just a bit)? or
should it be straight down?

The prop's hub was in tact, it doesn't appear to have slipped at all.

Thanks for the advice
-josh


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Ok, we're cutting to the chase now. The bottom of the boat should be clean
and SMOOTH. Even a little build up of crud will affect performance. Even a
fresh coat of wax on a clean hull helps. It sounds like you have more than a
little bit of crud. The skeg sounds like it got dragged coming out of the
water more than once. It should be perfectly vertical, not bent to one side
or the other...that will slow you down. If not too much is taken off, you
can just bend it back yourself...file/sand the edges smooth, and give it a
coat of paint. The prop...sounds like it's time for retirement. Since it's
aluminum...just replace it. it's not worth getting it repaired. If you have
the $$ go with stainless, for better performance. There are cons with
stainless as well, but I ran with one for years with no problems.

I'll bet ya, if you do those three things, that boat will perform as it
should (or close to it).

--Mike


"Josh Assing" wrote in message
...
Speaking of props, what material is yours? A few dings will make a
difference, but certainly not 10-15mph. A stainless prop gets a better
"bite" on the water, but is also very expensive (compared to aluminum). I
had a 22p stainless prop on my 4.3L 18' reinell, and she got to about
45mph.
Can you turn the prop by hand at all when it is in gear? I don't know if
you
can "partially" spin a prop from it's hub, but if it's slipping under
load,
that would certainly account for a lower top end. Slower out of the hole
as
well.

OK - boat is out of the water -- lots of barnicles (small ones) mostly on
the
sides, not on the V part too much. some other round thing guys too.

Lots of algae...

I pressure washed the bottom, then scraped most of the barnicles off --
probably
need to put some bottom paint on -- but I won't be able to get to that
tomorrow
(Needs to be really cleaned & sanded 1st)

The prop -- it's pretty dinged along ever edge -- and isn't even at all.

The outdrive -- the fin that goes "down" Looks like it got ground down a
bit, I
have no reference for how big that fin should be; but there's some
unpained
aluminum and it's rough like it's been pulled out of the water with the
outdrive
down. I think that's OK -- and if not; can build up a new fin at a
welding shop
I'm sure.

NOW, the real question is -- should it "curve" to the side (just a bit)?
or
should it be straight down?

The prop's hub was in tact, it doesn't appear to have slipped at all.

Thanks for the advice
-josh


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Thanks mike -- I priced props, can't afford SS right now. for less than a SS I
can get a 19 and 22 pitch prop (for pullin skiers & cruising/top end)

Now that it's light out; I took another look -- and yea; there's still more on
it; I got almost all the barnicles off - amazing that people would keep a boat
in salt water & not have a good coat of bottom paint on it. I guess I'm just
used to the sailboat -- I keep her in year round and only paint the bottom once
ever 2 years -- this has been in the water 6 months -- I guess that paint really
does work well! g

I tried to bend the skeg back to verticle; but it's just so slight to the side;
I'm afraid I'll break it -- maybe a bit of heat?

Any reference/clues to how far down it should go? It's about even with the prop
blade.

for fun..
http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/skegrear.jpg
http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/skegside.jpg
http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/prop.jpg

The shots of the bottom weren't good enough to post -- especially since I got
90% of the crud off...

Thanks for the advice/help!

-josh
(My last power boat was a small thing that I hauled out after each use with an
outboard, so while a small boat, it's a new world to me)

On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 05:41:49 GMT, "MGG" wrote:

Ok, we're cutting to the chase now. The bottom of the boat should be clean
and SMOOTH. Even a little build up of crud will affect performance. Even a
fresh coat of wax on a clean hull helps. It sounds like you have more than a
little bit of crud. The skeg sounds like it got dragged coming out of the
water more than once. It should be perfectly vertical, not bent to one side
or the other...that will slow you down. If not too much is taken off, you
can just bend it back yourself...file/sand the edges smooth, and give it a
coat of paint. The prop...sounds like it's time for retirement. Since it's
aluminum...just replace it. it's not worth getting it repaired. If you have
the $$ go with stainless, for better performance. There are cons with
stainless as well, but I ran with one for years with no problems.

I'll bet ya, if you do those three things, that boat will perform as it
should (or close to it).

--Mike


"Josh Assing" wrote in message
.. .
Speaking of props, what material is yours? A few dings will make a
difference, but certainly not 10-15mph. A stainless prop gets a better
"bite" on the water, but is also very expensive (compared to aluminum). I
had a 22p stainless prop on my 4.3L 18' reinell, and she got to about
45mph.
Can you turn the prop by hand at all when it is in gear? I don't know if
you
can "partially" spin a prop from it's hub, but if it's slipping under
load,
that would certainly account for a lower top end. Slower out of the hole
as
well.

OK - boat is out of the water -- lots of barnicles (small ones) mostly on
the
sides, not on the V part too much. some other round thing guys too.

Lots of algae...

I pressure washed the bottom, then scraped most of the barnicles off --
probably
need to put some bottom paint on -- but I won't be able to get to that
tomorrow
(Needs to be really cleaned & sanded 1st)

The prop -- it's pretty dinged along ever edge -- and isn't even at all.

The outdrive -- the fin that goes "down" Looks like it got ground down a
bit, I
have no reference for how big that fin should be; but there's some
unpained
aluminum and it's rough like it's been pulled out of the water with the
outdrive
down. I think that's OK -- and if not; can build up a new fin at a
welding shop
I'm sure.

NOW, the real question is -- should it "curve" to the side (just a bit)?
or
should it be straight down?

The prop's hub was in tact, it doesn't appear to have slipped at all.

Thanks for the advice
-josh


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I tried to bend the skeg back to verticle; but it's just so slight to the
side;
I'm afraid I'll break it -- maybe a bit of heat?

Heating it up would help, but be careful not to overheat it. The shape of
the skeg (from the side) looks good apart from the chunk taken out of the
back. I would just grind down those rough corners (kind of round off the
broken part), grind the bottom smooth, and paint it. That is *if* you can
get the twist out. If you can't get the twist out, then she needs to see a
prop shop. That twist *will* slow you down. I'll bet the boat pulls to the
right, so you need to steer left to compensate. That sort of cross control
aint good for speed.

I can get a 19 and 22 pitch prop (for pullin skiers & cruising/top end)

That's the exact same setup I had on my Reinell...except the 22 was
stainless.

A picture is worth a thousand words, and I think we've nailed your problem.

--Mike

"Josh Assing" wrote in message
...
Thanks mike -- I priced props, can't afford SS right now. for less than a
SS I
can get a 19 and 22 pitch prop (for pullin skiers & cruising/top end)

Now that it's light out; I took another look -- and yea; there's still
more on
it; I got almost all the barnicles off - amazing that people would keep a
boat
in salt water & not have a good coat of bottom paint on it. I guess I'm
just
used to the sailboat -- I keep her in year round and only paint the bottom
once
ever 2 years -- this has been in the water 6 months -- I guess that paint
really
does work well! g

I tried to bend the skeg back to verticle; but it's just so slight to the
side;
I'm afraid I'll break it -- maybe a bit of heat?

Any reference/clues to how far down it should go? It's about even with
the prop
blade.

for fun..
http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/skegrear.jpg
http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/skegside.jpg
http://jassing.com/josh/images/fourwinns/prop.jpg

The shots of the bottom weren't good enough to post -- especially since I
got
90% of the crud off...

Thanks for the advice/help!

-josh
(My last power boat was a small thing that I hauled out after each use
with an
outboard, so while a small boat, it's a new world to me)

On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 05:41:49 GMT, "MGG" wrote:

Ok, we're cutting to the chase now. The bottom of the boat should be clean
and SMOOTH. Even a little build up of crud will affect performance. Even a
fresh coat of wax on a clean hull helps. It sounds like you have more than
a
little bit of crud. The skeg sounds like it got dragged coming out of the
water more than once. It should be perfectly vertical, not bent to one
side
or the other...that will slow you down. If not too much is taken off, you
can just bend it back yourself...file/sand the edges smooth, and give it a
coat of paint. The prop...sounds like it's time for retirement. Since it's
aluminum...just replace it. it's not worth getting it repaired. If you
have
the $$ go with stainless, for better performance. There are cons with
stainless as well, but I ran with one for years with no problems.

I'll bet ya, if you do those three things, that boat will perform as it
should (or close to it).

--Mike


"Josh Assing" wrote in message
. ..
Speaking of props, what material is yours? A few dings will make a
difference, but certainly not 10-15mph. A stainless prop gets a better
"bite" on the water, but is also very expensive (compared to aluminum).
I
had a 22p stainless prop on my 4.3L 18' reinell, and she got to about
45mph.
Can you turn the prop by hand at all when it is in gear? I don't know if
you
can "partially" spin a prop from it's hub, but if it's slipping under
load,
that would certainly account for a lower top end. Slower out of the hole
as
well.

OK - boat is out of the water -- lots of barnicles (small ones) mostly
on
the
sides, not on the V part too much. some other round thing guys too.

Lots of algae...

I pressure washed the bottom, then scraped most of the barnicles off --
probably
need to put some bottom paint on -- but I won't be able to get to that
tomorrow
(Needs to be really cleaned & sanded 1st)

The prop -- it's pretty dinged along ever edge -- and isn't even at all.

The outdrive -- the fin that goes "down" Looks like it got ground down
a
bit, I
have no reference for how big that fin should be; but there's some
unpained
aluminum and it's rough like it's been pulled out of the water with the
outdrive
down. I think that's OK -- and if not; can build up a new fin at a
welding shop
I'm sure.

NOW, the real question is -- should it "curve" to the side (just a bit)?
or
should it be straight down?

The prop's hub was in tact, it doesn't appear to have slipped at all.

Thanks for the advice
-josh


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