Hi guys thanks for all the advice
posted in the past.

well me and the guys at the maria were discussing oil.

Some use "marine" grade while others do not

Some use Valvoline strait 50 weigh "racing" oil

was wonder what every ones thoughts were?

Thanks
m

I use the multi grade 10-40 HD oil. Usually labeled for Trucks or
4x4s. I only boat in warm weather.

wrote:
In my GM 140 (3.0) I use Havaline 15-40 That's the same stuff that was
recomended in the Mustang 5.0 H.O. engines. I've used it for quite a
while. I know there's probably better oils out there, but theres
lesser oils too.


Big gus wrote:
Hi guys thanks for all the advice
posted in the past.

well me and the guys at the maria were discussing oil.

Some use "marine" grade while others do not

Some use Valvoline strait 50 weigh "racing" oil

was wonder what every ones thoughts were?

Thanks
m

"Big gus" wrote in message
...
Hi guys thanks for all the advice
posted in the past.

well me and the guys at the maria were discussing oil.

Some use "marine" grade while others do not

Some use Valvoline strait 50 weigh "racing" oil

was wonder what every ones thoughts were?

Thanks
m




What does your engine manufacturer recommend? If cars are any sort of
analogy, I've heard some interesting stories from my mechanic about people
who used 50W "cause mah daddy said it wuz a good idea", only to find out
that there was a good reason why the manufacturer specified 5W30. "Good
reason" can mean an engine that's old before its time.

Big gus wrote:
Hi guys thanks for all the advice
posted in the past.

well me and the guys at the maria were discussing oil.

Some use "marine" grade while others do not

Some use Valvoline strait 50 weigh "racing" oil

was wonder what every ones thoughts were?

Thanks
m



For the rather minimal cost, & maximum protection, I use 5W-30 or 10W-30
Mobil 1 synthetic in the inboard. That engine is as clean as a whistle
and extremely quiet - the loudest noise with the exhaust under water is
a tie, with the belts going around the pullies, or the bubbles at the
transom.

Rob

I agree about the single viscosty but it's just hard to find good
single grade oil at the local discount stores like wally world. And no
one recommends single viscosity in your car for summer. Even though
you will change it again before winter.

On the water issue I am skeptical that "marine" oils have anything
specific in them to improve their ability to deal with water. Water
and oil don't mix and you don't want them to mix. Motor oil does not
"attract" water like brake fluid does. Beat them together for a while
and you get a nasty white mixture that is not good for lubricating.
I'll have to hear some details before I believe this one.

Gene Kearns wrote:
On Mon, 05 Jun 2006 06:19:08 -0400, Big gus
wrote:

Hi guys thanks for all the advice
posted in the past.

well me and the guys at the maria were discussing oil.

Some use "marine" grade while others do not

Some use Valvoline strait 50 weigh "racing" oil

was wonder what every ones thoughts were?

Thanks
m


Marine grade oils are formulated for a damp environment. Not a bad
idea.

Using a straight weight oil in warm climates is probably preferable to
a multi viscosity oil. If you don't need cold weather starting
formulation, why give up superior EP lubricity?

Before you feel the need to give the dry start lecture, consider that
the first number in a multi-viscosity oil has nothing to do with
viscosity. If it did, there wouldn't be any 0W-40 oils... which there
are.

IMHO, synthetics are preferable.

Modern engines are built with such tight tolerances, using a thick oil
probably does more harm than good.

"Gene Kearns" wrote
Marine grade oils are formulated for a damp environment. Not a bad
idea.

Using a straight weight oil in warm climates is probably preferable to
a multi viscosity oil. If you don't need cold weather starting
formulation, why give up superior EP lubricity?

Before you feel the need to give the dry start lecture, consider that
the first number in a multi-viscosity oil has nothing to do with
viscosity. If it did, there wouldn't be any 0W-40 oils... which there
are.

IMHO, synthetics are preferable.

Modern engines are built with such tight tolerances, using a thick oil
probably does more harm than good.

I'd use multiweights on any reasonably modern water cooled gasoline engine.
Have not yet become a user of synthetics. Tend to change oil more by date
than hours. Twice a year for cars and boats. Believe strongly in changing
oil filters with each oil change and sometimes wonder if more often might be
better.

Starts, condensation, and poor oil circulation are probably greater concern
than viscosity breakdown for marine engines.

360,000 km so far on Chev Blazer V6, too soon to conclude about old 165 Merc
I/O.

Used to put 50W into old British motorcycles, but they never ran enough to
test longevity.

surfnturf

surfnturf

jamesgangnc wrote:
I agree about the single viscosty but it's just hard to find good
single grade oil at the local discount stores like wally world. And no
one recommends single viscosity in your car for summer. Even though
you will change it again before winter.

On the water issue I am skeptical that "marine" oils have anything
specific in them to improve their ability to deal with water. Water
and oil don't mix and you don't want them to mix. Motor oil does not
"attract" water like brake fluid does. Beat them together for a while
and you get a nasty white mixture that is not good for lubricating.
I'll have to hear some details before I believe this one.

Gene Kearns wrote:
On Mon, 05 Jun 2006 06:19:08 -0400, Big gus
wrote:

Hi guys thanks for all the advice
posted in the past.

well me and the guys at the maria were discussing oil.

Some use "marine" grade while others do not

Some use Valvoline strait 50 weigh "racing" oil

was wonder what every ones thoughts were?

Thanks
m


Marine grade oils are formulated for a damp environment. Not a bad
idea.

Using a straight weight oil in warm climates is probably preferable to
a multi viscosity oil. If you don't need cold weather starting
formulation, why give up superior EP lubricity?

Before you feel the need to give the dry start lecture, consider that
the first number in a multi-viscosity oil has nothing to do with
viscosity. If it did, there wouldn't be any 0W-40 oils... which there
are.

IMHO, synthetics are preferable.

Modern engines are built with such tight tolerances, using a thick oil
probably does more harm than good.

From what I've gleaned looking into this, is that they do actually
handle moisture better. One thing that keeps coming up is that they
typically have no chlorine in them, and that the additives in oil break
down and change because of moisture, and these marine oils are more
stable if they get moisture.

For diesel engines, it's tough to beat Delo 100 or Delo 400.
I use a single weight oil (30), because it's almost never colder than
50 degrees in the engine room when I start my boat. I also want as much
"oil" in my oil as possible, not all the parrafins and other junk they
add to runny, low viscosity oil to make "multigrade".

If you get lazy about following the recommended oil change intervals,
it's a bad idea to use a multigrade. All the viscosity improvers break
down over a period of time, and you are then left with only the lowest
number on a multi-grade oil. Pull the dip stick on an engine that has
gone way too long without an oil change at the black goo runs off like
dirty water.

But always follow the mfgr recommendation. If the builder says to use a
multi, use a multi- but be sure you also follow the recommended change
intervals or change even more frequently.

wrote:
For diesel engines, it's tough to beat Delo 100 or Delo 400.
I use a single weight oil (30), because it's almost never colder than
50 degrees in the engine room when I start my boat. I also want as much
"oil" in my oil as possible, not all the parrafins and other junk they
add to runny, low viscosity oil to make "multigrade".

If you get lazy about following the recommended oil change intervals,
it's a bad idea to use a multigrade. All the viscosity improvers break
down over a period of time, and you are then left with only the lowest
number on a multi-grade oil. Pull the dip stick on an engine that has
gone way too long without an oil change at the black goo runs off like
dirty water.

But always follow the mfgr recommendation. If the builder says to use a
multi, use a multi- but be sure you also follow the recommended change
intervals or change even more frequently.

Paraffin occurs naturally to some extent in oil. My uncle was an
aviation machinist and being before they added alot of junk to oil, new
the differences in amounts of paraffin in California, Texas, and Penn.
crude

Gene Kearns wrote:
On 5 Jun 2006 09:33:12 -0700, "basskisser" wrote:



Paraffin occurs naturally to some extent in oil. My uncle was an
aviation machinist and being before they added alot of junk to oil, new
the differences in amounts of paraffin in California, Texas, and Penn.
crude

There are two types of crudes: naphthenic and paraffinic. Naphthenic
crudes contain very little paraffin. Paraffinic crudes have most of
the paraffin removed in a de-waxing process.

True, however, there is still paraffin in naphthenic crude. But not in
amounts significant to have to take out. Pennsylvania crude has a lot
of paraffin in it, for one. There are many, many types of crude from
around the world, all of them are different.



Aviation oils designed for recip. engines have very few additives... ,
they don't even contain detergents, relying on an ashless dispersant
package....

That's why in the '40's they were quite worried about where the crude
came from because of it's content.