Charles T. Low wrote:

Just to increase the odds that I'm not missing anything: I have condensation
inside my distributor cap. (This on a Chrysler 318, 1978,
www.ctlow.ca/Trojan26). Needless to say, it runs poorly that way! The seal
is old and brittle, and I have a new, marine cap on its way. We dried it out
the other day (after which it ran well), and I'm trying to leave the engine
hatch a tad open to improve ventilation (having put weather-stripping and
sound-insulation under it over the past few years...), and today it's wet
again. My bilges are always wet, long story, but they are.

I found an article on Car Talk
(http://www.cartalk.com/content/colum...ctober/06.html) about this.



Lots of people have scratched their heads over this. We didn't notice the
distributor cap condensation, though, until this year, and I'm hoping that's
it. But, from Car Talk, perhaps I should get a ventilated one, if such
exists...

Am I missing something obvious?

Thanks to all in advance.

Charles

Charles, you don't mention what you've done with the points & condenser.
I'm assuming this is the Prestolite distributor?

Do not "make" a vent as outlined in the Click & Clack article. The
distributor is the ignition-protected variety and the housing itself
should have a screen, a vent if you wish, for flame suppression.

A good, new cap, base gasket, and the electronic conversion (I use Retro
Rockets to source the Pertronix units - Sierra also has them) should
take care of the problem except in extreme situations... it worked for me.

Rob

Thank you, Rob,

This 1978 engine, Chrysler 318 V-8, is semi-electronic. Their are no points,
but there is a distributor. Does this change your advice at all?

Also, from the Car Talk article, I wonder about moisture coming up from
below (old worn parts ...). If so, the new cap might not solve the problem.
My plan is to wait and see (and try to remember always to open the engine
hatch just a hair before I leave the boat).

====

Charles T. Low
www.boatdocking.com

====

"trainfan1" wrote in message
et...
Charles, you don't mention what you've done with the points & condenser.
I'm assuming this is the Prestolite distributor?

Do not "make" a vent as outlined in the Click & Clack article. The
distributor is the ignition-protected variety and the housing itself
should have a screen, a vent if you wish, for flame suppression.

A good, new cap, base gasket, and the electronic conversion (I use Retro
Rockets to source the Pertronix units - Sierra also has them) should take
care of the problem except in extreme situations... it worked for me.

Rob

Charles T. Low wrote:
Thank you, Rob,

This 1978 engine, Chrysler 318 V-8, is semi-electronic. Their are no points,
but there is a distributor. Does this change your advice at all?

Also, from the Car Talk article, I wonder about moisture coming up from
below (old worn parts ...). If so, the new cap might not solve the problem.
My plan is to wait and see (and try to remember always to open the engine
hatch just a hair before I leave the boat).

It seems most problems of this type I had was when the boat(inboard
Ford) was brought out of the cold, damp garage. I would run it on the
fake-a-lake on the trailer, while cleaning, prepping, & inspecting, and
it would run perfectly.

A 30 minute shutdown for a trip to the boat launch would render the
engine DOA at the ramp, the cap soaking on the underside. Dry it out,
and that was the last problem for the season aside from one points
adjustment mid-season(now eliminated with the Pertronix Ignitor).

I think the subsequent heat/cool & humidity cycles were uniform, and we
didn't get any more condensation under the cap for the season. Boat is
kept outside, full mooring cover, 4-5 days a week, & uncovered 2-3 days
a week for the summer.

I think the Chrysler Marine engines went electronic('73/'74) a year or
two after the cars did - ('72(340)/'73(remaining V-8s) - 1-2 years ahead
of Ford('74) & GM(''75)!).

Try the cap & base gasket, & check the spark/vent screen to be sure it's
clear.



Rob


====

Charles T. Low
www.boatdocking.com

====

"trainfan1" wrote in message
et...

Charles, you don't mention what you've done with the points & condenser.
I'm assuming this is the Prestolite distributor?

Do not "make" a vent as outlined in the Click & Clack article. The
distributor is the ignition-protected variety and the housing itself
should have a screen, a vent if you wish, for flame suppression.

A good, new cap, base gasket, and the electronic conversion (I use Retro
Rockets to source the Pertronix units - Sierra also has them) should take
care of the problem except in extreme situations... it worked for me.

Rob

Thank you Rob and to the others who have replied. I'm learning by leaps.

By the way, someone asked if it's a Prestolite - don't know, no name shown
that I've seen.

While waiting for my new cap/rotor, I sprayed it with pressurized "air" from
a can because it still _looked_ damp, sprayed some oil in there (I have some
generic brand which says "penetrating and water-dispersing..." ???), waited
a while, wiped out the small amount remaining, and ran it again.

It was still horrible. I thought I would try detaching and reattaching leads
one by one from the distributor to see if any particular ones were at fault,
and it didn't make a noticeable difference running it on 7 cylinders only,
except that gradually, barely noticeably, by the time I had finished, it was
running almost normally. As if each lead connection needed air ... ???

Anyway, when the cap comes, I'm also going to install upgraded spark plugs,
new leads, and will take it from there.

I will check under the oil cap for milkiness. Don't think so. (Distributor
open to crankcase ... would not have thought of that! And why are they
designed that way ... ???)

Where would I see a spark/vent screen on the distributor mechanism? Haven't
come across it so far.

Again, thanks to all. Much appreciated.

Charles

====

Charles T. Low
www.boatdocking.com

====

"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
It seems most problems of this type I had was when the boat(inboard Ford)
was brought out of the cold, damp garage. I would run it on the
fake-a-lake on the trailer, while cleaning, prepping, & inspecting, and it
would run perfectly.

A 30 minute shutdown for a trip to the boat launch would render the engine
DOA at the ramp, the cap soaking on the underside. Dry it out, and that
was the last problem for the season aside from one points adjustment
mid-season(now eliminated with the Pertronix Ignitor).

I think the subsequent heat/cool & humidity cycles were uniform, and we
didn't get any more condensation under the cap for the season. Boat is
kept outside, full mooring cover, 4-5 days a week, & uncovered 2-3 days a
week for the summer.

I think the Chrysler Marine engines went electronic('73/'74) a year or two
after the cars did - ('72(340)/'73(remaining V-8s) - 1-2 years ahead of
Ford('74) & GM(''75)!).

Try the cap & base gasket, & check the spark/vent screen to be sure it's
clear.



Rob


====

Charles T. Low
www.boatdocking.com

====

"trainfan1" wrote in message
et...

Charles, you don't mention what you've done with the points & condenser.
I'm assuming this is the Prestolite distributor?

Do not "make" a vent as outlined in the Click & Clack article. The
distributor is the ignition-protected variety and the housing itself
should have a screen, a vent if you wish, for flame suppression.

A good, new cap, base gasket, and the electronic conversion (I use Retro
Rockets to source the Pertronix units - Sierra also has them) should take
care of the problem except in extreme situations... it worked for me.

Rob

Charles T. Low wrote:
Thank you Rob and to the others who have replied. I'm learning by leaps.

By the way, someone asked if it's a Prestolite - don't know, no name shown
that I've seen.

While waiting for my new cap/rotor, I sprayed it with pressurized "air" from
a can because it still _looked_ damp, sprayed some oil in there (I have some
generic brand which says "penetrating and water-dispersing..." ???), waited
a while, wiped out the small amount remaining, and ran it again.

It was still horrible. I thought I would try detaching and reattaching leads
one by one from the distributor to see if any particular ones were at fault,
and it didn't make a noticeable difference running it on 7 cylinders only,
except that gradually, barely noticeably, by the time I had finished, it was
running almost normally. As if each lead connection needed air ... ???

Sounds like the cap is carbon tracked. Check the plug wire continuity &
resistance, too. Swap out a known good coil - coil could be weak. On
the Chrysler ignition, I always carry a spare ballast resistor, &
ignition/amplifier module, either of which can give similar
problems(resistor usually is no start or runs while cranking only).


Anyway, when the cap comes, I'm also going to install upgraded spark plugs,
new leads, and will take it from there.

I will check under the oil cap for milkiness. Don't think so. (Distributor
open to crankcase ... would not have thought of that! And why are they
designed that way ... ???)

Where would I see a spark/vent screen on the distributor mechanism? Haven't
come across it so far.

Picture C, the round "spot", is a screen:

http://marinemechanic.com/merc/distr...-ford-dist.jpg

Rob