Gene Kearns wrote:
On 19 Apr 2006 11:11:00 -0700, "
wrote:

I would like to de-attach and re-attach the T-top of my boat. But
before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach
it. The problem is that I have very little access to the under-deck
area right under the legs of the T-top. There is only around 2" to 3"
space underneat the deck -- I can stick my hand into it, but I cannot
turn my hand to do any work. Therefore, I am looking for a way to
attach the T-top onto my deck from above the deck.

Any trick that people can offer? Thanks.

Jay Chan

It isn't clear whether you want to do this more than once.....

If you intend to do this on a regular basis, I'd consider having some
stainless plates made to go on the back side... you really do want
through-bolts. Drill and tap the plates to match the existing holes
and attach the plates with countersunk stainless screws.

Once installed access to the back side becomes unnecessary....

I only intend to re-attach it once.

Why do I need a stainless steel backing plate (instead of a regular
galvonized plate) if I need to re-attach the T-top frequently?

Jay Chan

wrote:
Gene Kearns wrote:

On 19 Apr 2006 11:11:00 -0700, "
wrote:


I would like to de-attach and re-attach the T-top of my boat. But
before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach
it. The problem is that I have very little access to the under-deck
area right under the legs of the T-top. There is only around 2" to 3"
space underneat the deck -- I can stick my hand into it, but I cannot
turn my hand to do any work. Therefore, I am looking for a way to
attach the T-top onto my deck from above the deck.

Any trick that people can offer? Thanks.

Jay Chan

It isn't clear whether you want to do this more than once.....

If you intend to do this on a regular basis, I'd consider having some
stainless plates made to go on the back side... you really do want
through-bolts. Drill and tap the plates to match the existing holes
and attach the plates with countersunk stainless screws.

Once installed access to the back side becomes unnecessary....


I only intend to re-attach it once.

Why do I need a stainless steel backing plate (instead of a regular
galvonized plate) if I need to re-attach the T-top frequently?

Jay Chan


Here on the salt water we only use stainless steel or aluminum backing
plates. Why ask for trouble?

I use a stainless backing plate on anything that is boat thru, even on
the cleats.

wrote:
I use a stainless backing plate on anything that is boat thru, even on
the cleats.

I was asking why I definitely need a stainless steel backing plate if I
intend to re-attach the T-top frequently. I believe you have answered
my question. If I am going to re-attach the T-top very often, the area
where the bolt gets through the desk will not likely to be very
water-tight, and will tend to rust the backing plate if the backing
plate is not stainless steel. Thanks for giving me the hint to figure
this out.

Althought I am not planning to re-attach the T-top repeatedly, I will
still use a stainless steel backing plate -- This is kind of a "get it
done and don't want to re-visit" kind of task.

Jay Chan

wrote:
wrote:

I use a stainless backing plate on anything that is boat thru, even on
the cleats.


I was asking why I definitely need a stainless steel backing plate if I
intend to re-attach the T-top frequently. I believe you have answered
my question. If I am going to re-attach the T-top very often, *the area
where the bolt gets through the desk will not likely to be very
water-tight, and will tend to rust the backing plate if the backing
plate is not stainless steel*. Thanks for giving me the hint to figure
this out.

Althought I am not planning to re-attach the T-top repeatedly, I will
still use a stainless steel backing plate -- This is kind of a "get it
done and don't want to re-visit" kind of task.

Jay Chan

Say what?
You don't want leaking around screws/plates. Use 3M 4200 bedding compound.

I started using pieces of kitchen cutting boards as backing plates. The
ones that are about a 1/2 inch thick. They cut with regular saws and will
never rust.

"Don White" wrote in message
...
wrote:
wrote:

I use a stainless backing plate on anything that is boat thru, even on
the cleats.


I was asking why I definitely need a stainless steel backing plate if I
intend to re-attach the T-top frequently. I believe you have answered
my question. If I am going to re-attach the T-top very often, *the area
where the bolt gets through the desk will not likely to be very
water-tight, and will tend to rust the backing plate if the backing
plate is not stainless steel*. Thanks for giving me the hint to figure
this out.

Althought I am not planning to re-attach the T-top repeatedly, I will
still use a stainless steel backing plate -- This is kind of a "get it
done and don't want to re-visit" kind of task.

Jay Chan

Say what?
You don't want leaking around screws/plates. Use 3M 4200 bedding
compound.

I never thought about using HDPE as a backing plate, thats a great
idea. Thanks