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Michael Daly wrote:
On 15-Mar-2006, Bill Tuthill wrote: Do you have a Werner touring paddle, or something else? Lendal with both length and feather adjustment. The length adjustment comes with feather adjustment but I never use it. I haven't found that I use any length but the shortest. Right. That makes sense. I believe Brian Nystrom has to post a movie on the web (or at least still-picture series) before I can comprehend what he's talking about here. I know what Brian's talking about. He is correct when he says that you don't need a control hand with an unfeathered paddle*. However, most paddlers continue to use the control hand concept regardless of paddle type. Hence, they are stating a myth that no wrist action is involved for unfeathered. No, YOU are starting a myth that one cannot paddle unfeathered without flexing one's wrists. I agree that people who start out paddling feathered have a hard time letting go of the control hand concept, but I've done it and I know a few other people who have, so to claim that it can't be done or isn't done is nonsense. The problem you describe is a residual one from feathered paddling, not an innate charactertistic of unfeathered paddling. When I teach paddling strokes, I specifically teach paddlers to restrict the use of a control hand. Use it for a forward stroke as required but never for bracing, sculling etc. In the latter cases, any control is by the hand closest to the blade in the water. As it should be. It's one of the paradoxes of using a feathered paddle. Maintaining a control hand makes bracing, sculling and rolling far more difficult than necessary. I'm convinced that the "onside/offside" concept is largely due to the use of feathered paddle and the difficulties their asymmetry presents. While it obviously can be overcome, many people struggle for years to do so. If you get used to that concept, you don't have as much of a problem switching between feathered and unfeathered paddles. I also show them how to set up an adjustable paddle for a forward stroke that doesn't need any wrist action at all. That's easy, take the feather out. ;-) *There are paddles that don't work well with no control hand even if unfeathered. Those with odd blades and certain bent shafts can get away from you unless you use a bit of control - they don't tend to line up nicely with the flow over the blade by themselves. Those would be in the minority. I don't doubt that at all, though I haven't experienced it personally. It would seem to indicate a poor paddle design. However, if a paddle needs control, one can simply control the paddle with both hands alternately, rather than one. That's what a person who paddles without a control hand instinctively does in conditions that demand firm control of the paddle. Again, it eliminates the asymmetry of using a single control hand. |
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