Those articles are the reasons I don't fish after catching my limit, or whatever I
plan to eat right away. Sometimes this ****es off the people fishing with me, who
think that as long as the bite is hot we should keep fishing. But, what the hell!

On Thu, 5 Jan 2006 09:43:33 -0500, "Reggie Smithers"
wrote:

Harry's comments referenced my questions concerning removing the hook from
the fish (and the hook rusting away) and what some fisherman are doing to
minimize the damage to fish caused by the hook, but they did not reference
Doug's comment about Lactic Acid. I did a quick search on "Catch and
Release Lactic Acid" and found

http://seagrant.gso.uri.edu/factshee...elease_fs.html

See article below. After reading this article, I think I understand why I
see so many dead fish floating around my lake. Catch and Release can be
very tramatic on the fish. It allows a fisherman to continue to legally
fish after catching many fish, but may still be devastating on the
fisheries. If lake fishing using catch and release is tough on the fish, I
can't imagine what the survivor rate for a large billfish or a shark is.
They have to not only contend with the wound damage, but the lactic acid and
"decompression" problems. The article states " barbless hooks ... for
reasons still unclear, may not significantly reduce mortality, especially
when used with bait."


http://seagrant.gso.uri.edu/factshee...elease_fs.html

Why Do Hooked Fish Die?
Fish that are caught and released may die for several reasons, but the two
primary causes are stress and wounding. Stress results from the fish
fighting after being hooked. Internally, the physical exertion causes an
oxygen deficit in the tissues, forcing the muscles to function anaerobically
(without oxygen). This causes lactic acid to build up in the muscle tissue,
and then to diffuse into the blood. Lactic acid acts as an acid in the
blood, causing the pH of the blood to drop. Even slight changes in pH can
cause major disruptions of the metabolic processes, ultimately killing the
fish. If the fish is quickly released, its blood pH usually returns to
normal and the fish will be unaffected. Some fish, after a long tow, may
appear to live once released, but the imbalance in the blood chemistry may
kill them as late as three days after being caught. In most cases, the means
of preventing this type of mortality is to not keep the fish in action for a
long period of time, unless the intent is to keep it.

The other primary cause of mortality is wounding by the hook. Injuries
caused by hooks can range from very minor to lethal. The degree of injury is
dependent on the location of the hook wound. Higher mortalities will occur
in fish that are hooked in the gill or stomach areas, while lower
mortalities occur in fish that are hooked in the lip, jaw, or cheek areas.
Baited hooks are more likely to result in a gill or stomach hooking that
artificial lures. Treble hooks, for obvious reasons, will result in more
puncture wounds and subsequently higher mortalities. Barbless hooks
facilitate release and decrease "out-of-water" time, but for reasons yet
unclear, may not significantly reduce mortality, especially when used with
bait.

There are other kinds of physiological stress that can lead to higher
mortalities in released fish. Fish may not be able to adjust to changes in
pressure or to higher surface water temperatures. Also, when a fish is
handled or comes in contact with dry surfaces, such as landing nets or dry
hands, its mucous layers - commonly called slime layers - may be partially
removed, presenting an opportunity for bacteria or pathogens to invade the
skin.

Burping and Puncturing

When certain fish are brought up from depths greater than 40 feet too
quickly, their swim bladders, which normally control buoyancy, can
overinflate from rapid depressurization. Burping is a technique used on a
fish with an overinflated swim bladder. The fish is massaged in the belly
region in an attempt to release the excess air in the swim bladder.
Puncturing involves using a needle or ice pick to poke a hole in the fish's
exposed swim bladder. Both of these techniques are currently being advocated
in other parts of the country. However, if the procedure is not carried out
correctly, more damage than good may be done to the fish.

The success of burping depends on the species of fish. Some fish, such as
largemouth bass, perch, striped bass, cod, hake, and black sea bass, do not
have a connection from their gut to their swim bladder. If a fish's gut is
not connected to its swim bladder, then burping is impossible. Puncturing is
a very controversial technique. To date, there is no evidence that
puncturing will increase a fish's chance of survival.

The best advice for releasing fish with overinflated swim bladders is to let
them go as quickly as possible.

NEVER ATTEMPT TO BURP OR PUNCTURE A FISH WITHOUT KNOWING WHAT TO DO!

Catch-and-Release Guidelines

These guidelines provide basic information on the most beneficial
catch-and-release methods for most small- to medium-sized freshwater and
marine fish:

a.. If you plan to fish with artificial lures, such as plugs and spoons,
consider replacing treble hooks with single hooks. Single hooks are quicker
and easier to remove, especially when dealing with such predatory fish as
bluefish and northern pike. Consider pinching the barb on your hooks, since
this will make releasing the fish much easier.
b.. Plan your release strategy. Decide whether to keep or release any fish
prior to angling or at least before removing the fish from the water.
Familiarize yourself with any regulations in effect for the species
targeted, and gather any items that will facilitate handling and releasing
the fish.
c.. When a fish is hooked, use a steady, deliberate retrieval technique.
This can reduce the amount of stress a hooked fish undergoes when pulled up
from the depths too quickly, or when physically exhausted from an overly
slow retrieve.
d.. Once you have decided on releasing the fish, avoid netting or even
removing it from the water if possible. Use needle-nosed pliers to pry the
hook from the fish while it is still in the water. Fish that can be lifted
by the leader - the short length of line used to attach the end of the
fishing line to the lure or hook - can easily be released over the rail
using a "dehooker." These devices, whether homemade or purchased, are
gaining in popularity in the bluefish industry - to avoid the fish's nasty
teeth - and are useful for releasing a number of other species. A dehooker
may simply be a metal rod with a handle at one end and a small upturned hook
at the other end. If live bait or a lure is deeply embedded in the fish's
gullet, cut the leader close to the fish's mouth and let the fish keep the
hook. Studies have shown that fish can get rid of the hook up to 120 days
later.
e.. When landing the fish, it is important to minimize out-of-water time
and any fish contact with surrounding surfaces or objects.
a.. Avoid using landing nets if possible. If a landing net must be used,
one with a neoprene bag rather than natural twine should be used. Neoprene
removes less of the fish's mucous coat.

b.. Do not use a gaff!

a.. Keep hands moistened. This helps prevent removal of the fish's
natural protective mucous layer, and reduces the chance of subsequent
infections in the fish's skin.

b.. Minimize handling, particularly of the gills and soft underbelly.
Gently prevent the fish from battering itself on surrounding hard surfaces.
Place the fish on an old piece of foam cushion and place a wet rag or gloved
hand over the fish's eye. These two actions can do much to subdue even
unruly tuna and bluefish.

a.. Return the fish to the water headfirst. In most cases, it is best to
point the fish's head straight down and allow the fish to plunge down into
the water.


--
John H.

"Divide each difficulty into as many parts as is feasible and necessary to resolve it."
Rene Descartes