The mechanic looked at my boat today. As I explained before, trim and
tilt acting up. Progressively worse over a period of few weeks. Just
bought boat.

Anyway, mechanic says the seals need replaced in both trim cylinders
and the tilt cylinder as well to the tune of $300 per cylinder.

He said it'd probably be cheaper to get a whole new unit. I've been
checking and it's definitely cheaper to get a whole used unit either a
rebuilt one (~500-600) or just straight used (~300). I'm not sure
what labor costs would be associated with swapping out the unit. Does
the outboard have to be removed to do that? 115 hp Yamaha on a 16'
McKee Craft. Also not sure if I can offset the cost by selling the
core unit back out.

The good news is that the motor itself checks out okay.

Trolling trolling hooking up I replyed and now it's your turn

Charlie Brown wrote:

The mechanic looked at my boat today. As I explained before, trim and
tilt acting up. Progressively worse over a period of few weeks. Just
bought boat.

Anyway, mechanic says the seals need replaced in both trim cylinders
and the tilt cylinder as well to the tune of $300 per cylinder.

He said it'd probably be cheaper to get a whole new unit. I've been
checking and it's definitely cheaper to get a whole used unit either a
rebuilt one (~500-600) or just straight used (~300). I'm not sure
what labor costs would be associated with swapping out the unit. Does
the outboard have to be removed to do that? 115 hp Yamaha on a 16'
McKee Craft. Also not sure if I can offset the cost by selling the
core unit back out.

The good news is that the motor itself checks out okay.

"Charlie Brown" wrote in message
...
The mechanic looked at my boat today. As I explained before, trim and
tilt acting up. Progressively worse over a period of few weeks. Just
bought boat.

Anyway, mechanic says the seals need replaced in both trim cylinders
and the tilt cylinder as well to the tune of $300 per cylinder.

He said it'd probably be cheaper to get a whole new unit. I've been
checking and it's definitely cheaper to get a whole used unit either a
rebuilt one (~500-600) or just straight used (~300). I'm not sure
what labor costs would be associated with swapping out the unit. Does
the outboard have to be removed to do that? 115 hp Yamaha on a 16'
McKee Craft. Also not sure if I can offset the cost by selling the
core unit back out.

The good news is that the motor itself checks out okay.



Why so much, the seal kit for a Mercruiser I/O is $27.00 per cyl. I rebuilt
mine for the cost of the parts.

On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 07:12:59 -0500, "Jeff Rigby"
wrote:




Why so much, the seal kit for a Mercruiser I/O is $27.00 per cyl. I rebuilt
mine for the cost of the parts.

Well that's one of my questions as I thought it sounded high too.

"Charlie Brown" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 07:12:59 -0500, "Jeff Rigby"
wrote:




Why so much, the seal kit for a Mercruiser I/O is $27.00 per cyl. I
rebuilt
mine for the cost of the parts.

Well that's one of my questions as I thought it sounded high too.


It's most certainly for labor. Of course the parts are relatively
inexpensive.
I have Yamy 150. I have a leak in one of my units and have been
trying to figure out a way to swap the unit out without pulling the engine
for a couple years now. Im not sure if its possible. If it is,,, it would
probably
be more trouble than just pulling the engine.

btw,

The *trim* cylinders have a seal and an o-ring that *can* be replaced
without
pulling the engine now that I think about it. You just need a special tool
to
unscrew the cap. Its a four prong job. I had a machine shop make one for
me a few years back.


Is the leak coming from the top of the trim cylinder??

db

The labor sounds way too much... Where are you located?? What is their
hourly rate??

To do a reseal you will not have to remove the engine, and IIRC you should
not have to pull that little v4 to replace the tnt..

How corroded up is your tnt unit anyways?

"Charlie Brown" wrote in message
...
The mechanic looked at my boat today. As I explained before, trim and
tilt acting up. Progressively worse over a period of few weeks. Just
bought boat.

Anyway, mechanic says the seals need replaced in both trim cylinders
and the tilt cylinder as well to the tune of $300 per cylinder.

He said it'd probably be cheaper to get a whole new unit. I've been
checking and it's definitely cheaper to get a whole used unit either a
rebuilt one (~500-600) or just straight used (~300). I'm not sure
what labor costs would be associated with swapping out the unit. Does
the outboard have to be removed to do that? 115 hp Yamaha on a 16'
McKee Craft. Also not sure if I can offset the cost by selling the
core unit back out.

The good news is that the motor itself checks out okay.

On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 22:02:55 GMT, "Bruce" wrote:

The labor sounds way too much... Where are you located?? What is their
hourly rate??

To do a reseal you will not have to remove the engine, and IIRC you should
not have to pull that little v4 to replace the tnt..

How corroded up is your tnt unit anyways?

Didn't look too bad too me, but I don't know much. I can see the
little o rings around where the rods come out and the one trim side is
pretty ate up looking, the other side not bad and the tilt rod so-so.

I talked to the mechanic again today and he said that the parts alone
for each cylinder are $300 a piece. It sounds like a completel
rebuild...not just the seals...not sure why they haven't indicated to
just do the seals???

They say they should be able to get me a complete used unit of good
quality for $350 and about 6 hours labor to remove the motor and swap
the trim. $68 per hour, so probably looking at $700-800 for this
repair.

"Charlie Brown" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 22:02:55 GMT, "Bruce" wrote:

The labor sounds way too much... Where are you located?? What is their
hourly rate??

To do a reseal you will not have to remove the engine, and IIRC you should
not have to pull that little v4 to replace the tnt..

How corroded up is your tnt unit anyways?

Didn't look too bad too me, but I don't know much. I can see the
little o rings around where the rods come out and the one trim side is
pretty ate up looking, the other side not bad and the tilt rod so-so.

I talked to the mechanic again today and he said that the parts alone
for each cylinder are $300 a piece. It sounds like a completel
rebuild...not just the seals...not sure why they haven't indicated to
just do the seals???

They say they should be able to get me a complete used unit of good
quality for $350 and about 6 hours labor to remove the motor and swap
the trim. $68 per hour, so probably looking at $700-800 for this
repair.

Again, why so expensive. It takes 30 min per cyl and $27 in parts for each
cyl to replace the O-rings. That includes the time to wire brush the
corrosion out of the wiper slot and replace the wiper rubber ring. That's
the part you can see around the shaft. When those go it's important that
you rebuild as the next O-ring inside when it goes bad will allow the tilt
cyl to suck water into the hydraulic fluid.

Except for the special tool to remove the screw in end cap out, no special
tools are required.

On Fri, 6 Jan 2006 06:20:40 -0500, "Jeff Rigby"
wrote:



Again, why so expensive. It takes 30 min per cyl and $27 in parts for each
cyl to replace the O-rings. That includes the time to wire brush the
corrosion out of the wiper slot and replace the wiper rubber ring. That's
the part you can see around the shaft. When those go it's important that
you rebuild as the next O-ring inside when it goes bad will allow the tilt
cyl to suck water into the hydraulic fluid.

Except for the special tool to remove the screw in end cap out, no special
tools are required.

I'm looking at the service manual and see that it appears to be an
easy job. I've called the local Yamaha dealer and the o ring kit will
cost $30 just like you guys said. I'm real confused as to why I've
been quoted $300 per cylinder. It sounds like they are planning on
replacing all the parts but I don't understand why that would be
needed?

I've taken some photos of the trim rods. They are visible at:

http://home.sc.rr.com/linusb212/main/trim/trim1.jpg
http://home.sc.rr.com/linusb212/main/trim/trim2.jpg

The mechanic did refil the cylinders when doing the diagnostic and the
trim is operating correctly now. I don't see any substantial amount
of fluid leakage from around the dust seals. I'm thinking I'm going
to try this job myself of replacing the trim o rings.

I'm a little confused about the o-ring on the tilt rod. The service
manual says:

"If the tilt piston must be removed from the cylinder for servicing,
the trim/tilt unit must be removed from the clamp bracket assembly.
This task is accomplsiehd by first removing the end caps from both
ends of the pivot pin and then removing the pin. The pin can only be
removed from the port side out the starboard side. After the pin is
free, remove the attaching hardware securing the trim/tilt assembly in
the clamp bracket, and remove the assembly. "

I assume that this can all be done with the motor still mounted? My
mechanical skills are not that great and I'm a little hesitant about
removing the unit from the bracket assembly. I'm thinking that I
should just do the trim cylinders and see how that puts me.

The only thing I'm lacking is the special tool to remove the cylinder
caps.