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Rigging knife
Not sure what a rigging knife is, so my advice may be worthless. But, I keep
a knife on board that's reserved only for a situation when I may have to slice a rope instantly in an emergency. It's the Spyderco model below. It lists for $72.00, but I found it locally for about $50.00 and you can find it online around that price. www.spyderco.com Rescue 93mm - "Saving and Serving Professionals" want specific features in a folding knife. Product ID: C14SBL Emergency cutting requires these experts have a readily accessible knife for quickly separating a variety of materials and a design that safely cuts around people in hectic surroundings. Spyderco's new C14 Rescue 93mm model was built with these needs in mind. A remake of the landmark C14 Spyderco Rescue, the Rescue 93mm has a 3 1/2" cutting edge made from VG-10 stainless steel. The blade is mostly serrated with the last inch at the tip PlainEdged for a broad range of cutting needs. The blade's tip is a rounded sheepfoot design (no sharpened point) that slides safely under seatbelts or clothing. A unique feature is the crescent-shaped portion of steel bitten from the blade's spine just in front of the hole. While cutting, the crescent provides a positioning spot for the index finger giving perfect control over the blade's tip. Behind the round hole a row of textured serrations position the thumb for command over the entire cutting edge. Both positioning points are further refined by a finger Choil cut from the underbelly of the handle where the handle and blade meet. Blade and handle shape collectively, create first-rate control and ergonomic comfort over the entire knife. Made of figerglass reinforced nylon resin the handle is indigo blue, textured with a palm grip-sticking waffle pattern. A tip-up pocket clip fastens to either side of the handle for both right and left-handers and doubles as a lanyard hole. A half-moon of steel removed from the locking lever (called a David Boye indent) makes the knife impossible to accidentally close when gripped very tightly. "Ivan Reborin" wrote in message ... I'm looking for a good rigging pocket knife, which won't fail me when needed, unlike the last one. Any reccomendations ? Ivan Reborin |
Rigging knife
I'm not sure one knife will do it. As Doug points out, sometimes you
want something to cut a line in an emergency. For that, the Spyderco 93m that he recommends looks good -- It will get through almost anything rapidly. On the other hand, if you're working with line -- cutting, splicing, etc. then a knife with a straight blade is much better -- the serrations in the Spyderco will make a mess of any cut and make it much harder to whip or splice. For general use, I carry a Myerchin that has a blade and a spike, both locking. The blade is straight, not serrated, and it works fine for general use with polyester and nylon. It's similar to this: http://www.myerchin.com/A377.html If I'm working with Kevlar, I use utility knife blades (replaceable) in one of several holders -- the best of these is called the Superknife. It's pricey, but convenient. Kevlar is so tough that if you use an ordinary blade, you'll be resharpening after eight or ten cuts -- I'd rather replace blades. Some people sailing on smaller boats carry knives with a shackle key -- I prefer a smooth spike as it's good for pulling apart tight knots without damaging the rope too badly and can be stuck through the hole in the shackle pin for a little leverage if you're careful. Others carry a separate knife and spike in a leather holder on their belts. This gives you a little bigger knife and spike at the cost of more weight. However, it ends up inside your foul weather gear and, therefore, inaccessible when you need it. I prefer my Myerchin on its lanyard which is easy to transfer to an outer pocket when I put on foul weather pants. Jim Woodward www.mvfintry.com "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... Not sure what a rigging knife is, so my advice may be worthless. But, I keep a knife on board that's reserved only for a situation when I may have to slice a rope instantly in an emergency. It's the Spyderco model below. It lists for $72.00, but I found it locally for about $50.00 and you can find it online around that price. www.spyderco.com Rescue 93mm - "Saving and Serving Professionals" want specific features in a folding knife. Product ID: C14SBL Emergency cutting requires these experts have a readily accessible knife for quickly separating a variety of materials and a design that safely cuts around people in hectic surroundings. Spyderco's new C14 Rescue 93mm model was built with these needs in mind. A remake of the landmark C14 Spyderco Rescue, the Rescue 93mm has a 3 1/2" cutting edge made from VG-10 stainless steel. The blade is mostly serrated with the last inch at the tip PlainEdged for a broad range of cutting needs. The blade's tip is a rounded sheepfoot design (no sharpened point) that slides safely under seatbelts or clothing. A unique feature is the crescent-shaped portion of steel bitten from the blade's spine just in front of the hole. While cutting, the crescent provides a positioning spot for the index finger giving perfect control over the blade's tip. Behind the round hole a row of textured serrations position the thumb for command over the entire cutting edge. Both positioning points are further refined by a finger Choil cut from the underbelly of the handle where the handle and blade meet. Blade and handle shape collectively, create first-rate control and ergonomic comfort over the entire knife. Made of figerglass reinforced nylon resin the handle is indigo blue, textured with a palm grip-sticking waffle pattern. A tip-up pocket clip fastens to either side of the handle for both right and left-handers and doubles as a lanyard hole. A half-moon of steel removed from the locking lever (called a David Boye indent) makes the knife impossible to accidentally close when gripped very tightly. "Ivan Reborin" wrote in message ... I'm looking for a good rigging pocket knife, which won't fail me when needed, unlike the last one. Any reccomendations ? Ivan Reborin |
Rigging knife
"Jack Rye" wrote in message
news:20e_a.56630$Ne.21173@fed1read03... I like to carry the Gerber E-Z out Rescue for serious cutting. The removable belt clip and yellow handles makes for a great general purpose rigging, cutting knife. Also the Gerber utility with sharpened tip. They both sell for about $40.00. Jack Here's a question that only a curmudgeon would ask: Are the blades stainless steel, or can they be sharpened quickly with a stone, WITHOUT electricity? |
Rigging knife
Good question. Trouble is, there's no right answer.
Now, I think I'm with Doug -- I don't really like stainless blades -- my carving knife is not stainless and keeps a wonderful edge in a kitchen drawer. It's easy to resharpen. But, IMHO stainless is better for a sea knife. As I said earlier, I carry a stainless Myerchin any time I'm aboard a boat. I sharpen this at home with a red diamond stone from DMT and finish it with a buffing wheel (as I do all my tools, which have to able to shave my arm clean with one pass). Because it's stainless, it holds an edge for a long time unless I cut Kevlar. Because I don't actually use it much, ease of sharpening is not a big issue. If I'm going on passage, I'll carry DMT red and green stones, which will do the same thing, albeit taking longer -- but on passage, you have time. And, as I said, if I'm doing something that dulls the blade -- cutting Kevlar or a lot of rope work -- I'll use replaceable blades -- at $9.00/100 I don't care what your time is worth, it's easier and cheaper to use replaceables and save the time for something better. Jim Woodward www.mvfintry.com "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "Jack Rye" wrote in message news:20e_a.56630$Ne.21173@fed1read03... I like to carry the Gerber E-Z out Rescue for serious cutting. The removable belt clip and yellow handles makes for a great general purpose rigging, cutting knife. Also the Gerber utility with sharpened tip. They both sell for about $40.00. Jack Here's a question that only a curmudgeon would ask: Are the blades stainless steel, or can they be sharpened quickly with a stone, WITHOUT electricity? |
Rigging knife
Everyone makes a good point, but here is how I feel about "my knife".
It has to be cheap enough that I'm not worried about loosing it or damaging it doing the urgent but unconventional task, like prying something open.. It must keep a fairly sharp edge. Often a expensive knife can be made razor sharp but the first time you cut a synthetic line or have to scrap a little paint off something (unconvential task), the edge is nicked or dulled. I generally go with a utility edge that cuts well enough for line splicing, etc. (but if I want to shave my arm, I'll get a razor). It should have some utility tools built in so you don't abuse the blade. But let's not go overboard with the tools. My personal knife is a West Marine SS (but it's magnetic for some reason). It has one wide blade, a marlin spike, slotted tool for turning shackle pins and a flat piece sticking out of the cheeks that server as a screw driver. I don't think I paid more that $8-10 for it but that was over 10 years ago. My kid have given me the expensive, fancy tool kit in a knife but they have been to heavy and bulky to keep on my pocket. If you opt for a sheath on the belt, sooner or later you will get tired of strapping it on and won't have it when you need it. I always end up carrying the knife I discribed previously when on the boat or when ashore.. I have a habit of checking that it is there everytime a move from one place to another (kinda like when you check for your glasses or wallet). Just part of my attire.. A knife like this meets all of my requirements without weighting me down or wearing holes in my pocket. If I need tools, I keep a few in the cockpit (away from the compass) and even more in a lockers down below. A final note, as long as I'm on the stump! Every crew member should have a knife and if they arrive onboard without one, have a few good ones, like mine that you can offer them. Then remind them that they should get their own at the first opportunity. I know I don't want to loan my knife, not because it is anything fancy or I'm afraid they might damage it, but because loaning it out would mean I wouldn't have it with me and that is like loaning glasses or wallet. Now for my usual disclaimer: My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
Rigging knife
I believe that the knife should be of good quality. I have a Riggers Knife
purchased 30 years ago, a G. Ibberson & Co. which I consider to have one of the best stainless blades I have owned. The blade must be sharp to cut any sheet or line in an emergency. But there is one other knife I carry just about everywhere ,except at airports, it the Leatherman! It was a gift over and over from getting a car going to repair anything else I just wish it had a better blade like my G.Ibberson & Co. If you need a pry bar then keep a cheap flat head screw driver. I recommend having the sharpest and easy to sharp blade for times of need remember good knife steel is "worth it's weight in gold." A good tool will most of the time be respected and cared for. J "Steve" wrote in message ... Everyone makes a good point, but here is how I feel about "my knife". It has to be cheap enough that I'm not worried about loosing it or damaging it doing the urgent but unconventional task, like prying something open.. It must keep a fairly sharp edge. Often a expensive knife can be made razor sharp but the first time you cut a synthetic line or have to scrap a little paint off something (unconvential task), the edge is nicked or dulled. I generally go with a utility edge that cuts well enough for line splicing, etc. (but if I want to shave my arm, I'll get a razor). It should have some utility tools built in so you don't abuse the blade. But let's not go overboard with the tools. My personal knife is a West Marine SS (but it's magnetic for some reason). It has one wide blade, a marlin spike, slotted tool for turning shackle pins and a flat piece sticking out of the cheeks that server as a screw driver. I don't think I paid more that $8-10 for it but that was over 10 years ago. My kid have given me the expensive, fancy tool kit in a knife but they have been to heavy and bulky to keep on my pocket. If you opt for a sheath on the belt, sooner or later you will get tired of strapping it on and won't have it when you need it. I always end up carrying the knife I discribed previously when on the boat or when ashore.. I have a habit of checking that it is there everytime a move from one place to another (kinda like when you check for your glasses or wallet). Just part of my attire.. A knife like this meets all of my requirements without weighting me down or wearing holes in my pocket. If I need tools, I keep a few in the cockpit (away from the compass) and even more in a lockers down below. A final note, as long as I'm on the stump! Every crew member should have a knife and if they arrive onboard without one, have a few good ones, like mine that you can offer them. Then remind them that they should get their own at the first opportunity. I know I don't want to loan my knife, not because it is anything fancy or I'm afraid they might damage it, but because loaning it out would mean I wouldn't have it with me and that is like loaning glasses or wallet. Now for my usual disclaimer: My opinion and experience. FWIW Steve s/v Good Intentions |
Rigging knife
"Steve" wrote in message
Every crew member should have a knife and if they arrive onboard without one, have a few good ones, like mine that you can offer them. Then remind them that they should get their own at the first opportunity. Yikes; I'm still gettin' 'em to bring clean shoes! I've got a collection of knives (including the WM SS), but rarely wear one aboard now after permanently fixing a knife in sheath to the mast. It's only a few steps away from anywhere on deck, and there's another hanging on a lanyard inside the companionway. Best thing is they're *always* there, big enough to do the job, don't catch on things, require a belt, go overboard or get lost. |
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