What Does "Self Bailing" Mean for a 18-ft Center Console?
 

Sorry you couldn't find the right sized CS boat. CS is coming out with some
new models that have V bows, and will, no doubt, increase ownership of these
tough little boats. We would have enjoyed your company, I'm sure.

with regard to putting your live wells in etc..... a couple of five gallon
buckets full of water strategically placed should give you a quick look at
what will happen to your balance when add ANYTHING to any part of the boat.
That goes for extra batteries; live wells; center consoles etc.. It is a
cheap and easy way to see what's going to happen with a new install of
anything heavy.

RichG manager, Carolina Skiff Owners Group on MSN
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffOwners
..

wrote in message
oups.com...
RichG wrote:
Lloyd's answer is very complete.

I would only add, since the topic comes up often on the CS group, is
that
many boats claim "self bailing" but rarely deliver fully on that
promise.

If a heavier engine is put on the transom ( often a 4 cycle instead of
the
designed for 2 cycle) it can cause the stern to be heavier than the
original
design. If one stores their batteries; gasoline tanks; baitwells, etc.
near
the stern... often that weight will put a drain under water. If it rains
a
lot, and the boat is left in a slip, lots of time leaves or other debris
will block the drain holes, and the boat will fill and can sink. If a
heavier than designed boater runs the boat, and he steps near the
stern...
often the boat will be below the designed level.

In the case of a Carolina Skiff; a Boston Whaler; or other fully foamed
hulls, sinking isn't the normal result. However, they, too, can still
allow
a lot of water to get in... if the stern gets too heavy.

Lloyd's comments about boats ( such as yours... apparently,) that have
bilges below their "self bailing " decks can go under if the
"self-bailing"
doesn't work well. Water, sooner or later, can work its way below and
sooner
or later the battery will run down after pumping that water out. This
is
assuming that a boat is left for a long time moored or tied to a dock,
and
lots of rainfall is present.

I installed "flapper" and "ball type" fittings on the drain openings on
my
former boats, to allow water out, but not in. They didn't work
perfectly,
since the seal is not compete. Water would leak in if I stood near the
stern. Not a lot of water, but enough to have to clear the decks with a
run
forward, allowing the "self bailing" hulls to finally, self bail.

Certainly, most self-bailing hulls will clear their decks while you are
under way. Not quickly, but they will clear. If you took a heavy wave
over
the bow, the long drain time can be disconcerting.

I hope all of this isn't too discouraging,...but I haven't found a
perfect
"self bailing" hull yet. RG
--
RichG manager, Carolina Skiff Owners Group on MSN
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffOwners

Not discouraging at all -- I know nothing is perfect. I just want to
know what my boat can do in term of self-bailing, and I think I have
got the info that I need here. Thanks.

Next time when I bring the boat out in the water, I will try moving
people and coolers around to see how far I can go without upsetting the
balance or flooding the drain hole. I want to put a live-well and a
second cooler right behind the cockpit where no one is supposed to stay
there when the boat is in motion and therefore is a wasted space.
Therefore, I want to make sure I won't upset the self-bailing function
of the boat by adding the live well and the cooler there. Thanks for
pointing this out.

Talking about CarolinaSkill, I almost bought a 2001 (or 2003?) center
console from CarolinaSkill at a reasonable price if not for the fact
that the one that I saw was only 16-1/2-ft when I was looking for a
18-ft boat. A couple weeks later when I got back to the same marina
where the boat was, it was gone. This means I almost joined your
owners-group.

Jay Chan