I would like to know if this is a good idea to buy a 19 or 20 year old
outboard motor. I am planning to buy a used boat, and add a new motor
in it. But most used boats come with old motor -- not that many places
sell only the hull. I am wondering whether those old motors are any
good in general.

The one that I am looking at has a 1986 Evinrude 90HP outboard motor.
Does this specific model of old motor have a good track record?

I know I will need to ask a mechanic to take a look of the motor before
accepting the motor. But I need to know if this is a good idea before I
spend the time and money to ask a mechanic to look at the motor.

Is a "rebuilt" motor better or worse than a plain old used motor?

You see. If I should avoid old motors (given the fact that I am willing
to buy a new motor), I will concentrate on "hull only" deals, and don't
bother with boats that come with motor.

Thanks for any info in advance.

Jay Chan

wrote:
: I would like to know if this is a good idea to buy a 19 or 20 year old
: outboard motor. I am planning to buy a used boat, and add a new motor
: in it. But most used boats come with old motor -- not that many places
: sell only the hull. I am wondering whether those old motors are any
:
good in general.

I'd worry about the hull before I worried about the outboard. If you buy
a 90 HP Mercury outboard, for example, you'll be in for a cost of about
$5,500 new. If you later find rot in the transom or the stringers, you
may be in for a $7,000 rebuild job on the hull.

My approach would be to have an expert examine the boat hull (a local
boat hull repair person or a marine surveyor). If it's good, don't
worry about th engine if it also appears in good shape (the surveyor
could tell you). Then later if you need to buy a new motor, at least you're
putting it on a hull that is of good condition.

It's typical for many hulls to show their "weaknesses" after 20 years
in the form of rotting floorboards, rotting transoms and rotting stringers.
The guy who rebuilt my hull simply got a 3/4" socket (from a socket wrench
set) and tapped in various places of the hull. If it made a sharp sound
the wood wasn't rotten. If it sounded dull, it was.

There are some very reliable, old outboard motors out there. Yes, the
newer ones run much more smoothly and efficiently, mostly due to
environmental law changes but I wouldn't jump too quickly at the
idea of buying a 20 year boat without thoroughly exammining the hull
along with the engine and keeping it "as is" if it appears to be in
good condition.

barry

I don't know if this engine is old enough to have been derated by the
use of a thicker head gasket to compensate for poor quality fuel. So,
you may not get the 90 HP you're expecting.

If it hasn't been rebuilt yet, it's a ticking time bomb. Factor in the
cost of a rebuilt power head ($1800 - $2000) when negotiating final
price. The good news is, if it lasted this long, the previous owner
took care of it.

If it has been rebuilt, don't forget all the other original and
expensive to replace parts that were reused, i.e. the starter ($200),
alternator ($300), lower unit ($1000).

Now that OMC has changed hands, I don't know how long spare parts will
be available. Don't forget, 90 HP Evinrudes were available with the
FICHT nightmare. If it's a FICHT, that should be the deal breaker,
unless he's willing to deduct the full value of that motor from the
sale price.

John

I don't know if this engine is old enough to have been derated by the
use of a thicker head gasket to compensate for poor quality fuel. So,
you may not get the 90 HP you're expecting.

I don't understand what this means. Please clarify. Thanks.

If it hasn't been rebuilt yet, it's a ticking time bomb. Factor in the
cost of a rebuilt power head ($1800 - $2000) when negotiating final
price. The good news is, if it lasted this long, the previous owner
took care of it.

I see. This means a rebuilt motor is better than an old motor that has
not been rebuilt yet.

If it has been rebuilt, don't forget all the other original and
expensive to replace parts that were reused, i.e. the starter ($200),
alternator ($300), lower unit ($1000).

I see. This means a rebuilt motor is a good value, and I should
consider it.

Now that OMC has changed hands, I don't know how long spare parts will
be available. Don't forget, 90 HP Evinrudes were available with the
FICHT nightmare. If it's a FICHT, that should be the deal breaker,
unless he's willing to deduct the full value of that motor from the
sale price.

I will have to research on this FICHT issue to know what this is all
about. Thanks for bring this to my attention.

Jay Chan

Jay,
Due to the lower quality of fuel, OMC decided to lower compression by
replacing cylinder head gaskets with thicker ones. The lower
compression lowered the horsepower rating a bit.

John

Due to the lower quality of fuel, OMC decided to lower compression by
replacing cylinder head gaskets with thicker ones. The lower
compression lowered the horsepower rating a bit.

Thanks for the explanation. Seem like this is not something that I need
to worry about because I don't really care about having a lot of
horsepower.

Jay Chan

John wrote:
I don't know if this engine is old enough to have been derated by the
use of a thicker head gasket to compensate for poor quality fuel. So,
you may not get the 90 HP you're expecting.

If it hasn't been rebuilt yet, it's a ticking time bomb. Factor in the
cost of a rebuilt power head ($1800 - $2000) when negotiating final
price. The good news is, if it lasted this long, the previous owner
took care of it.

You don't know that! It may have low hours, and been maintained very
well. The year that it was made has nothing to do with anything!

Let me guess, you think he should take the seller's word for the
quality and quantity of maintenance it received. If it "looks" well
maintained, all it means that it's possible that the seller could
afford some spray paint and some degreaser.

Assume the worst, and hope for the best is the safest way to go.

John

John wrote:
Let me guess, you think he should take the seller's word for the
quality and quantity of maintenance it received. If it "looks" well
maintained, all it means that it's possible that the seller could
afford some spray paint and some degreaser.

Spray paint and degreaser doesn't do much for maintainence records,
compression tests, pressure leak down tests, etc. Research, ask his
mechanic about the motor, then have your mechanic look at it, if you
don't know what to look for.

Assume the worst, and hope for the best is the safest way to go.

Must be terrible going through life in such a negative manner.

John wrote:
Let me guess, you think he should take the seller's word for the
quality and quantity of maintenance it received. If it "looks" well
maintained, all it means that it's possible that the seller could
afford some spray paint and some degreaser.

Where to hell did I say such a thing? Some spray paint and degreaser
wouldn't do **** for the compression. It wouldn't do **** for a trial
run to see how it runs and performs. Some spray paint wouldn't do
anything for the maintainence records, would it? Research! Go to the
guy's service man, and ask questions.

Assume the worst, and hope for the best is the safest way to go.


Must be crappy going through life like that!