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Water In Engine Oil
How do you trouble shoot the cause? Intake gasket vs head gasket vs crack
somewhere? Done some searching in this group and hoping exhaust manifold may be the problem but don't want to tear it apart if I can do some diagnostics first. I posted this last summer but problem appears to be back. This is a Mercrusiser (Chevy 350 block in a 1992 boat) that I overheated due to raw water pump failing (now have a buzzer installed). On this occasion, I launched and drove slow for 1/2 mile or so and then pulled a skier 1 mile or so (3200rpm or so) and noticed temp gauge pegged so stopped. At that time,I pulled heads, all pistons pretty much the same black top, had heads milled and valve job (motor has ~1200 hours on it). Cleaned block and intake and put back together. Not sure I wasn't still getting some water in oil after this as I could see some condensation under oil filler cap and either lots of blow by or steam coming out of the valve cover vents but it seemed to get better as the motor warmed up. Assumed it was condensation. Changed oil today and looks like chocolate milk... Without any good diagnostic test I guess I will just start to pull apart and see if I can find anything. Tried to do this last year but the gaskets tear and can't really tell if it was leaking or not. I'd love to just change the exhaust manifold or intake gaskets if that is all that is wrong but if I have to tear down to the heads again, I will probably just go for a complete rebuilld and have everything checked. I really don't think it needs it as there was no ridge ring that I could see or feel. Thanks for any and all advice. Bobby |
Water In Engine Oil-More Info
bob wrote: How do you trouble shoot the cause? Intake gasket vs head gasket vs crack somewhere? Done some searching in this group and hoping exhaust manifold may be the problem but don't want to tear it apart if I can do some diagnostics first. I posted this last summer but problem appears to be back. This is a Mercrusiser (Chevy 350 block in a 1992 boat) that I overheated due to raw water pump failing (now have a buzzer installed). On this occasion, I launched and drove slow for 1/2 mile or so and then pulled a skier 1 mile or so (3200rpm or so) and noticed temp gauge pegged so stopped. At that time,I pulled heads, all pistons pretty much the same black top, had heads milled and valve job (motor has ~1200 hours on it). Cleaned block and intake and put back together. Not sure I wasn't still getting some water in oil after this as I could see some condensation under oil filler cap and either lots of blow by or steam coming out of the valve cover vents but it seemed to get better as the motor warmed up. Assumed it was condensation. Changed oil today and looks like chocolate milk... Without any good diagnostic test I guess I will just start to pull apart and see if I can find anything. Tried to do this last year but the gaskets tear and can't really tell if it was leaking or not. I'd love to just change the exhaust manifold or intake gaskets if that is all that is wrong but if I have to tear down to the heads again, I will probably just go for a complete rebuilld and have everything checked. I really don't think it needs it as there was no ridge ring that I could see or feel. Thanks for any and all advice. Bobby After searching the web some I more found that cracked exhaust manifold can let water in through exhaust valves and this will cause a hydro lock. After thinking about it, after sitting for a few minutes and hitting the starter, the motor spun and hit somehthing hard, stopping the starter. Tried again and it started. I pulled the exhause manifold on left side (port I think) and saw rust in #7 exhaust port (the motor is tilted up 10 degrees or so making this the lowest point). Did compression check and water blew out of spark plug #5. All cylinders checked 175 - 185psi. I cannot see any cracks in the exhaust manifold. Plugged holes with duct tape and filled the water jacket with water but the inside stayed dry. The manifold was very easy to seperate from the riser so maybe it was leaking but cannot see any signs based on gasket and rust tracks. I will try to get the manifold checked today but not sure if it really can be done. I know water enteres #5 cylinder and understand it can come from exhaust. * Would the intake gasket possibly cause this? * Do the intake manifolds sometimes crack and cause this? * Would a head crack cause this and still show 175psi on a compression check? I hope to find a crack in the exhaust manifold but if not, I am tempted to put new gaskets in the exhaust riser and see what happens. Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com |
Water In Engine Oil
A friend just replaced an exhaust manifold with the same problem.
Mick "bob" wrote in message ... How do you trouble shoot the cause? Intake gasket vs head gasket vs crack somewhere? Done some searching in this group and hoping exhaust manifold may be the problem but don't want to tear it apart if I can do some diagnostics first. I posted this last summer but problem appears to be back. This is a Mercrusiser (Chevy 350 block in a 1992 boat) that I overheated due to raw water pump failing (now have a buzzer installed). On this occasion, I launched and drove slow for 1/2 mile or so and then pulled a skier 1 mile or so (3200rpm or so) and noticed temp gauge pegged so stopped. At that time,I pulled heads, all pistons pretty much the same black top, had heads milled and valve job (motor has ~1200 hours on it). Cleaned block and intake and put back together. Not sure I wasn't still getting some water in oil after this as I could see some condensation under oil filler cap and either lots of blow by or steam coming out of the valve cover vents but it seemed to get better as the motor warmed up. Assumed it was condensation. Changed oil today and looks like chocolate milk... Without any good diagnostic test I guess I will just start to pull apart and see if I can find anything. Tried to do this last year but the gaskets tear and can't really tell if it was leaking or not. I'd love to just change the exhaust manifold or intake gaskets if that is all that is wrong but if I have to tear down to the heads again, I will probably just go for a complete rebuilld and have everything checked. I really don't think it needs it as there was no ridge ring that I could see or feel. Thanks for any and all advice. Bobby |
Water In Engine Oil
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 22:14:22 -0700, something compelled "Mickey"
, to say: A friend just replaced an exhaust manifold with the same problem. He should have gotten a new one. |
Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
bob wrote: bob wrote: How do you trouble shoot the cause? Intake gasket vs head gasket vs crack somewhere? Done some searching in this group and hoping exhaust manifold may be the problem but don't want to tear it apart if I can do some diagnostics first. I posted this last summer but problem appears to be back. This is a Mercrusiser (Chevy 350 block in a 1992 boat) that I overheated due to raw water pump failing (now have a buzzer installed). On this occasion, I launched and drove slow for 1/2 mile or so and then pulled a skier 1 mile or so (3200rpm or so) and noticed temp gauge pegged so stopped. At that time,I pulled heads, all pistons pretty much the same black top, had heads milled and valve job (motor has ~1200 hours on it). Cleaned block and intake and put back together. Not sure I wasn't still getting some water in oil after this as I could see some condensation under oil filler cap and either lots of blow by or steam coming out of the valve cover vents but it seemed to get better as the motor warmed up. Assumed it was condensation. Changed oil today and looks like chocolate milk... Without any good diagnostic test I guess I will just start to pull apart and see if I can find anything. Tried to do this last year but the gaskets tear and can't really tell if it was leaking or not. I'd love to just change the exhaust manifold or intake gaskets if that is all that is wrong but if I have to tear down to the heads again, I will probably just go for a complete rebuilld and have everything checked. I really don't think it needs it as there was no ridge ring that I could see or feel. Thanks for any and all advice. Bobby After searching the web some I more found that cracked exhaust manifold can let water in through exhaust valves and this will cause a hydro lock. After thinking about it, after sitting for a few minutes and hitting the starter, the motor spun and hit somehthing hard, stopping the starter. Tried again and it started. I pulled the exhause manifold on left side (port I think) and saw rust in #7 exhaust port (the motor is tilted up 10 degrees or so making this the lowest point). Did compression check and water blew out of spark plug #5. All cylinders checked 175 - 185psi. I cannot see any cracks in the exhaust manifold. Plugged holes with duct tape and filled the water jacket with water but the inside stayed dry. The manifold was very easy to seperate from the riser so maybe it was leaking but cannot see any signs based on gasket and rust tracks. I will try to get the manifold checked today but not sure if it really can be done. I know water enteres #5 cylinder and understand it can come from exhaust. * Would the intake gasket possibly cause this? * Do the intake manifolds sometimes crack and cause this? * Would a head crack cause this and still show 175psi on a compression check? I hope to find a crack in the exhaust manifold but if not, I am tempted to put new gaskets in the exhaust riser and see what happens. Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com Spun motor with plugs out to blow water out of cylinder. Pulled block drains to drain water. Pulled intake manifold and head. The intake manifold shows some internal rust and the runner going to #5 cylinder shows the most. Cannot see any crack. With the head still attached, looking into the intake port of #5 can see red rusty water sitting on top of the valve. Pullled head and there was about a cup of water on top of piston 5 and 7. Could not see any evidence of water leaking from intake gaskets or head gaskets. Will look for place to test intake manifold today (lots of places test heads) and get both tested for leaks. Hope to find something cracked but if not, can a leaking intake manifold gasket leak into cylinder #5 only? I will check again but I don't think there is a water port close to the intake for #5 ... Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com |
Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
I've seen this many times. It's time to change the exhaust risers, Bob. Make
sure you use OEM gaskets too. Some of the aftermarket stuff is garbage. JIMinFL "bob" wrote in message ... bob wrote: bob wrote: How do you trouble shoot the cause? Intake gasket vs head gasket vs crack somewhere? Done some searching in this group and hoping exhaust manifold may be the problem but don't want to tear it apart if I can do some diagnostics first. I posted this last summer but problem appears to be back. This is a Mercrusiser (Chevy 350 block in a 1992 boat) that I overheated due to raw water pump failing (now have a buzzer installed). On this occasion, I launched and drove slow for 1/2 mile or so and then pulled a skier 1 mile or so (3200rpm or so) and noticed temp gauge pegged so stopped. At that time,I pulled heads, all pistons pretty much the same black top, had heads milled and valve job (motor has ~1200 hours on it). Cleaned block and intake and put back together. Not sure I wasn't still getting some water in oil after this as I could see some condensation under oil filler cap and either lots of blow by or steam coming out of the valve cover vents but it seemed to get better as the motor warmed up. Assumed it was condensation. Changed oil today and looks like chocolate milk... Without any good diagnostic test I guess I will just start to pull apart and see if I can find anything. Tried to do this last year but the gaskets tear and can't really tell if it was leaking or not. I'd love to just change the exhaust manifold or intake gaskets if that is all that is wrong but if I have to tear down to the heads again, I will probably just go for a complete rebuilld and have everything checked. I really don't think it needs it as there was no ridge ring that I could see or feel. Thanks for any and all advice. Bobby After searching the web some I more found that cracked exhaust manifold can let water in through exhaust valves and this will cause a hydro lock. After thinking about it, after sitting for a few minutes and hitting the starter, the motor spun and hit somehthing hard, stopping the starter. Tried again and it started. I pulled the exhause manifold on left side (port I think) and saw rust in #7 exhaust port (the motor is tilted up 10 degrees or so making this the lowest point). Did compression check and water blew out of spark plug #5. All cylinders checked 175 - 185psi. I cannot see any cracks in the exhaust manifold. Plugged holes with duct tape and filled the water jacket with water but the inside stayed dry. The manifold was very easy to seperate from the riser so maybe it was leaking but cannot see any signs based on gasket and rust tracks. I will try to get the manifold checked today but not sure if it really can be done. I know water enteres #5 cylinder and understand it can come from exhaust. * Would the intake gasket possibly cause this? * Do the intake manifolds sometimes crack and cause this? * Would a head crack cause this and still show 175psi on a compression check? I hope to find a crack in the exhaust manifold but if not, I am tempted to put new gaskets in the exhaust riser and see what happens. Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com Spun motor with plugs out to blow water out of cylinder. Pulled block drains to drain water. Pulled intake manifold and head. The intake manifold shows some internal rust and the runner going to #5 cylinder shows the most. Cannot see any crack. With the head still attached, looking into the intake port of #5 can see red rusty water sitting on top of the valve. Pullled head and there was about a cup of water on top of piston 5 and 7. Could not see any evidence of water leaking from intake gaskets or head gaskets. Will look for place to test intake manifold today (lots of places test heads) and get both tested for leaks. Hope to find something cracked but if not, can a leaking intake manifold gasket leak into cylinder #5 only? I will check again but I don't think there is a water port close to the intake for #5 ... Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com |
Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
On Tue, 27 Jul 2004 08:13:33 -0500, bob wrote:
Will look for place to test intake manifold today (lots of places test heads) and get both tested for leaks. Hope to find something cracked but if not, can a leaking intake manifold gasket leak into cylinder #5 only? I will check again but I don't think there is a water port close to the intake for #5 ... ======================================== I had a situation earlier this year where the mating surfaces of the cylinder head had become sufficiently rusted that they would no longer seal effectively against the gasket. Rebuilt heads are available at reasonable prices and you get a valve job thrown in as part of the deal. |
Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
Dude, stop right there, go to junk yard, buy a decent long block, you'll
save a ton of money in the longrun. "bob" wrote in message ... bob wrote: bob wrote: How do you trouble shoot the cause? Intake gasket vs head gasket vs crack somewhere? Done some searching in this group and hoping exhaust manifold may be the problem but don't want to tear it apart if I can do some diagnostics first. I posted this last summer but problem appears to be back. This is a Mercrusiser (Chevy 350 block in a 1992 boat) that I overheated due to raw water pump failing (now have a buzzer installed). On this occasion, I launched and drove slow for 1/2 mile or so and then pulled a skier 1 mile or so (3200rpm or so) and noticed temp gauge pegged so stopped. At that time,I pulled heads, all pistons pretty much the same black top, had heads milled and valve job (motor has ~1200 hours on it). Cleaned block and intake and put back together. Not sure I wasn't still getting some water in oil after this as I could see some condensation under oil filler cap and either lots of blow by or steam coming out of the valve cover vents but it seemed to get better as the motor warmed up. Assumed it was condensation. Changed oil today and looks like chocolate milk... Without any good diagnostic test I guess I will just start to pull apart and see if I can find anything. Tried to do this last year but the gaskets tear and can't really tell if it was leaking or not. I'd love to just change the exhaust manifold or intake gaskets if that is all that is wrong but if I have to tear down to the heads again, I will probably just go for a complete rebuilld and have everything checked. I really don't think it needs it as there was no ridge ring that I could see or feel. Thanks for any and all advice. Bobby After searching the web some I more found that cracked exhaust manifold can let water in through exhaust valves and this will cause a hydro lock. After thinking about it, after sitting for a few minutes and hitting the starter, the motor spun and hit somehthing hard, stopping the starter. Tried again and it started. I pulled the exhause manifold on left side (port I think) and saw rust in #7 exhaust port (the motor is tilted up 10 degrees or so making this the lowest point). Did compression check and water blew out of spark plug #5. All cylinders checked 175 - 185psi. I cannot see any cracks in the exhaust manifold. Plugged holes with duct tape and filled the water jacket with water but the inside stayed dry. The manifold was very easy to seperate from the riser so maybe it was leaking but cannot see any signs based on gasket and rust tracks. I will try to get the manifold checked today but not sure if it really can be done. I know water enteres #5 cylinder and understand it can come from exhaust. * Would the intake gasket possibly cause this? * Do the intake manifolds sometimes crack and cause this? * Would a head crack cause this and still show 175psi on a compression check? I hope to find a crack in the exhaust manifold but if not, I am tempted to put new gaskets in the exhaust riser and see what happens. Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com Spun motor with plugs out to blow water out of cylinder. Pulled block drains to drain water. Pulled intake manifold and head. The intake manifold shows some internal rust and the runner going to #5 cylinder shows the most. Cannot see any crack. With the head still attached, looking into the intake port of #5 can see red rusty water sitting on top of the valve. Pullled head and there was about a cup of water on top of piston 5 and 7. Could not see any evidence of water leaking from intake gaskets or head gaskets. Will look for place to test intake manifold today (lots of places test heads) and get both tested for leaks. Hope to find something cracked but if not, can a leaking intake manifold gasket leak into cylinder #5 only? I will check again but I don't think there is a water port close to the intake for #5 ... Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com |
Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
".JIMinFL" wrote: I've seen this many times. It's time to change the exhaust risers, Bob. Make sure you use OEM gaskets too. Some of the aftermarket stuff is garbage. JIMinFL "bob" wrote in message ... bob wrote: bob wrote: How do you trouble shoot the cause? Intake gasket vs head gasket vs crack somewhere? Done some searching in this group and hoping exhaust manifold may be the problem but don't want to tear it apart if I can do some diagnostics first. I posted this last summer but problem appears to be back. This is a Mercrusiser (Chevy 350 block in a 1992 boat) that I overheated due to raw water pump failing (now have a buzzer installed). On this occasion, I launched and drove slow for 1/2 mile or so and then pulled a skier 1 mile or so (3200rpm or so) and noticed temp gauge pegged so stopped. At that time,I pulled heads, all pistons pretty much the same black top, had heads milled and valve job (motor has ~1200 hours on it). Cleaned block and intake and put back together. Not sure I wasn't still getting some water in oil after this as I could see some condensation under oil filler cap and either lots of blow by or steam coming out of the valve cover vents but it seemed to get better as the motor warmed up. Assumed it was condensation. Changed oil today and looks like chocolate milk... Without any good diagnostic test I guess I will just start to pull apart and see if I can find anything. Tried to do this last year but the gaskets tear and can't really tell if it was leaking or not. I'd love to just change the exhaust manifold or intake gaskets if that is all that is wrong but if I have to tear down to the heads again, I will probably just go for a complete rebuilld and have everything checked. I really don't think it needs it as there was no ridge ring that I could see or feel. Thanks for any and all advice. Bobby After searching the web some I more found that cracked exhaust manifold can let water in through exhaust valves and this will cause a hydro lock. After thinking about it, after sitting for a few minutes and hitting the starter, the motor spun and hit somehthing hard, stopping the starter. Tried again and it started. I pulled the exhause manifold on left side (port I think) and saw rust in #7 exhaust port (the motor is tilted up 10 degrees or so making this the lowest point). Did compression check and water blew out of spark plug #5. All cylinders checked 175 - 185psi. I cannot see any cracks in the exhaust manifold. Plugged holes with duct tape and filled the water jacket with water but the inside stayed dry. The manifold was very easy to seperate from the riser so maybe it was leaking but cannot see any signs based on gasket and rust tracks. I will try to get the manifold checked today but not sure if it really can be done. I know water enteres #5 cylinder and understand it can come from exhaust. * Would the intake gasket possibly cause this? * Do the intake manifolds sometimes crack and cause this? * Would a head crack cause this and still show 175psi on a compression check? I hope to find a crack in the exhaust manifold but if not, I am tempted to put new gaskets in the exhaust riser and see what happens. Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com Spun motor with plugs out to blow water out of cylinder. Pulled block drains to drain water. Pulled intake manifold and head. The intake manifold shows some internal rust and the runner going to #5 cylinder shows the most. Cannot see any crack. With the head still attached, looking into the intake port of #5 can see red rusty water sitting on top of the valve. Pullled head and there was about a cup of water on top of piston 5 and 7. Could not see any evidence of water leaking from intake gaskets or head gaskets. Will look for place to test intake manifold today (lots of places test heads) and get both tested for leaks. Hope to find something cracked but if not, can a leaking intake manifold gasket leak into cylinder #5 only? I will check again but I don't think there is a water port close to the intake for #5 ... Again, any thoughts or comments welcome. Bobby bbusselman at hotmail dot com I think I eliminated this as a possible cause by removing the exhause manifold and reinstalling but didn't connect the hoses on this side but still got the cylinder full of water after running for 2-3 minutes on the trailer. |
Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
"bob" wrote in message ... ".JIMinFL" wrote: I've seen this many times. It's time to change the exhaust risers, Bob. Make sure you use OEM gaskets too. Some of the aftermarket stuff is garbage. JIMinFL I think I eliminated this as a possible cause by removing the exhause manifold and reinstalling but didn't connect the hoses on this side but still got the cylinder full of water after running for 2-3 minutes on the trailer. Got to be a cracked head then. JIMinFL |
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