Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
 

".JIMinFL" wrote:

"bob" wrote in message
...


".JIMinFL" wrote:

I've seen this many times. It's time to change the exhaust risers, Bob.
Make
sure you use OEM gaskets too. Some of the aftermarket stuff is garbage.
JIMinFL


I think I eliminated this as a possible cause by removing the exhause
manifold
and reinstalling but didn't connect the hoses on this side but still got
the
cylinder full of water after running for 2-3 minutes on the trailer.

Got to be a cracked head then.
JIMinFL

I dropped the head off yesterday for testing. There is rust in the combustion
chamber and you can see a line where the head is the reddest. Hoping that line
tests to be a crack. I'll post results when I get them..

Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
 

HLAviation wrote:

Dude, stop right there, go to junk yard, buy a decent long block, you'll
save a ton of money in the longrun.

I don't know much about the differences between marine and automotive engines
but are you suggesting a boat junk yard or an automotive? If atomotive, where
can I get a cross reference of the automotive long blocks that will fit my
application (engine mounts, transmission bolt up, etc.). Maybe a chevy 350 is
basically a chevy 350....within certain years anyway?

Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
 

Dude, as my Japanese friend Hiro say, "Same Same". You can bolt any small
block Chevy from a 265 to a 400 in there using all the same stuff. There's
only one thing to watch for is that later model motors will have the Vortc
heads which require a diferent intake manifold. If you have the four bolts
around the valve cover, look for an engine with that configuration. If
you're valve covers have the bolts through the middle of the top look for
those. I'd look for the engine out of a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup since it
"should" have a 4 bolt main block in it as well as a forged rather than cast
crank. The way to look for this without pulling the oil pan off the engine
is to look at the flange of the crank. If it has a narrow ridge down running
lengthwise with the crank, that is a casting mark, ok, but not the best and
probably has a 2 bolt main. If instead of the narrow peak, it has about a
1/2" wide flattened raised area, that is a forged crank, stronger, and
generally triced up in a 4 bolt main block. With this bottom end
configuration, you can build a very reliable 400hp engine should you choose,
or you can just stick it in the boat as is. The differences (with the
exception of some old Chris Crafts who had special blocks cast to bolt the
trans to the timing chain end of the engine) with marine engines are for the
most part the accessories being spark-proofed. If you are raw water cooled
in salt, you may consider popping in a set of brass freeze plugs, available
from Chevrolet if you can't find them elsewhere.
"bob" wrote in message
...


HLAviation wrote:

Dude, stop right there, go to junk yard, buy a decent long block, you'll
save a ton of money in the longrun.

I don't know much about the differences between marine and automotive
engines
but are you suggesting a boat junk yard or an automotive? If atomotive,
where
can I get a cross reference of the automotive long blocks that will fit my
application (engine mounts, transmission bolt up, etc.). Maybe a chevy
350 is
basically a chevy 350....within certain years anyway?

Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
 

Actually in 1987 the small block changed from a two piece to a one piece
real seal. At the same time the end of the crank changed and the flywheels
are not interchangable from pre87 and post87. Very late in the 90's lot so
things happened to some of the small blocks but you chances of getting one
of those from a junk yard are slimmer.

"HLAviation" wrote in message
link.net...
Dude, as my Japanese friend Hiro say, "Same Same". You can bolt any small
block Chevy from a 265 to a 400 in there using all the same stuff. There's
only one thing to watch for is that later model motors will have the Vortc
heads which require a diferent intake manifold. If you have the four bolts
around the valve cover, look for an engine with that configuration. If
you're valve covers have the bolts through the middle of the top look for
those. I'd look for the engine out of a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup since it
"should" have a 4 bolt main block in it as well as a forged rather than
cast
crank. The way to look for this without pulling the oil pan off the engine
is to look at the flange of the crank. If it has a narrow ridge down
running
lengthwise with the crank, that is a casting mark, ok, but not the best
and
probably has a 2 bolt main. If instead of the narrow peak, it has about a
1/2" wide flattened raised area, that is a forged crank, stronger, and
generally triced up in a 4 bolt main block. With this bottom end
configuration, you can build a very reliable 400hp engine should you
choose,
or you can just stick it in the boat as is. The differences (with the
exception of some old Chris Crafts who had special blocks cast to bolt the
trans to the timing chain end of the engine) with marine engines are for
the
most part the accessories being spark-proofed. If you are raw water cooled
in salt, you may consider popping in a set of brass freeze plugs,
available
from Chevrolet if you can't find them elsewhere.
"bob" wrote in message
...


HLAviation wrote:

Dude, stop right there, go to junk yard, buy a decent long block,
you'll
save a ton of money in the longrun.

I don't know much about the differences between marine and automotive
engines
but are you suggesting a boat junk yard or an automotive? If atomotive,
where
can I get a cross reference of the automotive long blocks that will fit
my
application (engine mounts, transmission bolt up, etc.). Maybe a chevy
350 is
basically a chevy 350....within certain years anyway?

Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
 

Good catch, forgot about the flywheel, but they are readily available for
either crank. As for the late 90s change, I don't consider the LS series
engines as "Small Block Chevys". There's a lot of things they did with them
that I like, especially the intake ports in the head, but there's some
bottom end things they couldhave done better.

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Actually in 1987 the small block changed from a two piece to a one piece
real seal. At the same time the end of the crank changed and the
flywheels
are not interchangable from pre87 and post87. Very late in the 90's lot
so
things happened to some of the small blocks but you chances of getting one
of those from a junk yard are slimmer.

"HLAviation" wrote in message
link.net...
Dude, as my Japanese friend Hiro say, "Same Same". You can bolt any
small
block Chevy from a 265 to a 400 in there using all the same stuff.
There's
only one thing to watch for is that later model motors will have the
Vortc
heads which require a diferent intake manifold. If you have the four
bolts
around the valve cover, look for an engine with that configuration. If
you're valve covers have the bolts through the middle of the top look
for
those. I'd look for the engine out of a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup since it
"should" have a 4 bolt main block in it as well as a forged rather than
cast
crank. The way to look for this without pulling the oil pan off the
engine
is to look at the flange of the crank. If it has a narrow ridge down
running
lengthwise with the crank, that is a casting mark, ok, but not the best
and
probably has a 2 bolt main. If instead of the narrow peak, it has about
a
1/2" wide flattened raised area, that is a forged crank, stronger, and
generally triced up in a 4 bolt main block. With this bottom end
configuration, you can build a very reliable 400hp engine should you
choose,
or you can just stick it in the boat as is. The differences (with the
exception of some old Chris Crafts who had special blocks cast to bolt
the
trans to the timing chain end of the engine) with marine engines are for
the
most part the accessories being spark-proofed. If you are raw water
cooled
in salt, you may consider popping in a set of brass freeze plugs,
available
from Chevrolet if you can't find them elsewhere.
"bob" wrote in message
...


HLAviation wrote:

Dude, stop right there, go to junk yard, buy a decent long block,
you'll
save a ton of money in the longrun.

I don't know much about the differences between marine and automotive
engines
but are you suggesting a boat junk yard or an automotive? If
atomotive,
where
can I get a cross reference of the automotive long blocks that will
fit
my
application (engine mounts, transmission bolt up, etc.). Maybe a
chevy
350 is
basically a chevy 350....within certain years anyway?

Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 2
 

bob wrote:

bob wrote:

bob wrote:

How do you trouble shoot the cause? Intake gasket vs head gasket vs crack
somewhere? Done some searching in this group and hoping exhaust manifold may
be the problem but don't want to tear it apart if I can do some diagnostics
first.

I posted this last summer but problem appears to be back. This is a
Mercrusiser (Chevy 350 block in a 1992 boat) that I overheated due to raw water

pump failing (now have a buzzer installed). On this occasion, I launched and
drove slow for 1/2 mile or so and then pulled a skier 1 mile or so (3200rpm or
so) and noticed temp gauge pegged so stopped.

At that time,I pulled heads, all pistons pretty much the same black top, had
heads
milled and valve job (motor has ~1200 hours on it). Cleaned block and intake
and put back together. Not sure I wasn't still getting some water in oil after

this as I could see some condensation under oil filler cap and either lots of
blow by or steam coming out of the valve cover vents but it seemed to get
better as the motor warmed up. Assumed it was condensation. Changed oil today
and
looks like chocolate milk...

Without any good diagnostic test I guess I will just start to pull apart and
see if I can find anything. Tried to do this last year but the gaskets tear
and can't really tell if it was leaking or not. I'd love to just change the
exhaust manifold or intake gaskets if that is all that is wrong but if I have
to tear down to the heads again, I will probably just go for a complete
rebuilld and have
everything checked. I really don't think it needs it as there was no ridge
ring that I could see or feel.

Thanks for any and all advice.
Bobby

After searching the web some I more found that cracked exhaust manifold can let
water in through exhaust valves and this will cause a hydro lock. After thinking
about it, after sitting for a few minutes and hitting the starter, the motor spun
and hit somehthing hard, stopping the starter. Tried again and it started.

I pulled the exhause manifold on left side (port I think) and saw rust in #7
exhaust port (the motor is tilted up 10 degrees or so making this the lowest
point). Did compression check and water blew out of spark plug #5. All cylinders
checked 175 - 185psi. I cannot see any cracks in the exhaust manifold. Plugged
holes with duct tape and filled the water jacket with water but the inside stayed
dry. The manifold was very easy to seperate from the riser so maybe it was leaking
but cannot see any signs based on gasket and rust tracks. I will try to get the
manifold checked today but not sure if it really can be done.

I know water enteres #5 cylinder and understand it can come from exhaust.

* Would the intake gasket possibly cause this?
* Do the intake manifolds sometimes crack and cause this?
* Would a head crack cause this and still show 175psi on a compression check?

I hope to find a crack in the exhaust manifold but if not, I am tempted to put new
gaskets in the exhaust riser and see what happens.

Again, any thoughts or comments welcome.
Bobby
bbusselman at hotmail dot com

Spun motor with plugs out to blow water out of cylinder. Pulled block drains to drain
water. Pulled intake manifold and head. The intake manifold shows some internal rust
and the runner going to #5 cylinder shows the most. Cannot see any crack. With the
head still attached, looking into the intake port of #5 can see red rusty water sitting
on top of the valve. Pullled head and there was about a cup of water on top of piston
5 and 7. Could not see any evidence of water leaking from intake gaskets or head
gaskets.

Will look for place to test intake manifold today (lots of places test heads) and get
both tested for leaks. Hope to find something cracked but if not, can a leaking intake
manifold gasket leak into cylinder #5 only? I will check again but I don't think there
is a water port close to the intake for #5 ...

Again, any thoughts or comments welcome.
Bobby
bbusselman at hotmail dot com

Thanks to all who have posted. Head testing found #5 and #7 cracked... Just got in from a
long weekend trip but picked up a pair of heads with the bolts on the valve cover flange.
My original heads had them down the center. He threw in some old valve covers also so and
he said they should fit.

Some of the advice I got was that all small blocks are basically the same except the vortec
heads need different intake. I thought the vortec didn't get into the 350 until 1996 (boat
built in 92) so I should be OK. Will check tomorrow..

Thanks again for all of the info and advice.

bbusselman at hotmail. dot com

Water In Engine Oil-More Info - 3
 

HLAviation wrote:

Good catch, forgot about the flywheel, but they are readily available for
either crank. As for the late 90s change, I don't consider the LS series
engines as "Small Block Chevys". There's a lot of things they did with them
that I like, especially the intake ports in the head, but there's some
bottom end things they couldhave done better.

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Actually in 1987 the small block changed from a two piece to a one piece
real seal. At the same time the end of the crank changed and the
flywheels
are not interchangable from pre87 and post87. Very late in the 90's lot
so
things happened to some of the small blocks but you chances of getting one
of those from a junk yard are slimmer.

"HLAviation" wrote in message
link.net...
Dude, as my Japanese friend Hiro say, "Same Same". You can bolt any
small
block Chevy from a 265 to a 400 in there using all the same stuff.
There's
only one thing to watch for is that later model motors will have the
Vortc
heads which require a diferent intake manifold. If you have the four
bolts
around the valve cover, look for an engine with that configuration. If
you're valve covers have the bolts through the middle of the top look
for
those. I'd look for the engine out of a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup since it
"should" have a 4 bolt main block in it as well as a forged rather than
cast
crank. The way to look for this without pulling the oil pan off the
engine
is to look at the flange of the crank. If it has a narrow ridge down
running
lengthwise with the crank, that is a casting mark, ok, but not the best
and
probably has a 2 bolt main. If instead of the narrow peak, it has about
a
1/2" wide flattened raised area, that is a forged crank, stronger, and
generally triced up in a 4 bolt main block. With this bottom end
configuration, you can build a very reliable 400hp engine should you
choose,
or you can just stick it in the boat as is. The differences (with the
exception of some old Chris Crafts who had special blocks cast to bolt
the
trans to the timing chain end of the engine) with marine engines are for
the
most part the accessories being spark-proofed. If you are raw water
cooled
in salt, you may consider popping in a set of brass freeze plugs,
available
from Chevrolet if you can't find them elsewhere.
"bob" wrote in message
...


HLAviation wrote:

Dude, stop right there, go to junk yard, buy a decent long block,
you'll
save a ton of money in the longrun.

I don't know much about the differences between marine and automotive
engines
but are you suggesting a boat junk yard or an automotive? If
atomotive,
where
can I get a cross reference of the automotive long blocks that will
fit
my
application (engine mounts, transmission bolt up, etc.). Maybe a
chevy
350 is
basically a chevy 350....within certain years anyway?






Head shop says it was cracked at #5 and #7 so got my answer on where the water
came from. Shop says "looks like it froze". I doubt that is what happened
(failed in July in Texas).. but I did overheat it last summer and replaced both
head gaskets and had both heads checked and rebuilt. Maybe overheating caused
a small crack to form that wasn't detected by magnaflux...

Anyway, found 2 "old style" heads (valve cover bolts on outside rim but mine
has bolts down center) from a marine engine that the guy said would fit. Paid
$200 so if they don't fit I should be able to sell easy enough. From the advice
I've gotten so far, the only problem would be if they were vortec heads as they
intake fits different, but I'm pretty sure vortec 350s came out in 1996 (the
boat was built in 1992).

Again, any comments or advice appreciated.
Thanks,
Bobby
bbusselman at hotmail dot com