200 hp Johnson smoking like a train
 

Hello group,

I just purchased a boat with a '91 200 hp Johnson. Been doing some
work on the boat and now have moved onto the engine. I test drove the
boat and it ran fine. Had lots of power and got on plane fast. Idle
fine, but smoked more than I liked. This week I started to do some
work on the engine. I changed the plugs (NGK), water pump, gear lube,
and some fuel line. I did put some regular hose clamps on the fuel
lines. I go to start the engine and it fires up, but starts to smoke
REAL bad. Clouds of white/blue smoke and oily water pouring out of the
hub. It will not idle, but will run above 1200 rpms. So much smoke
that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I
did reading in the Seloc manual and figure that I have some air leaks
in the fuel line.

I took a look at the fuel lines today. They look wet, so I must be
sucking in air right? My first plan is to put new hoses and clamps in
and hope it solves the problem. Where do I find those oem fuel clamps?
Where else should I look for problems?

I did read about taking the VRO out, but I would like to keep it. I
want to run a 4 stroke 9.9 off the main tank and pre mix would kill
this idea.

TIA,
-Terry Quan

I just purchased a boat with a '91 200 hp Johnson.

I go to start the engine and it fires up, but starts to smoke
REAL bad. Clouds of white/blue smoke and oily water pouring out of the
hub. It will not idle, but will run above 1200 rpms. So much smoke
that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I
did reading in the Seloc manual and figure that I have some air leaks
in the fuel line.


Get rid of the NGK plugs and use the Champion QL77JC4 gapped at .030" for
best results. Check the cylinderheads to make sure the motor is coming up to
temperature at idle to about 140 degrees or so. If not, change the
thermostats and check the rest of the cooling system.

From your description, it sounds like you have a leaky oil outlet check
valve inside the "VRO" pump. The only fix, if that is the case, is to
replace the pump. The latest ones, 1998 and later, are completely repairable
and rebuildable, and are simpler inside. For more information on the "VRO"
and troubleshooting, go to:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

Bill Grannis
service manager

that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I



Are you running it in the bathtub?

Thanks Bill,

I took the pump out and waiting on a new one to come. Even if it
worked the unit is 10+ years old, so probably will be a good idea to
replace it.

-Terry Quan

Running it on the garden hose right now. I know it will run different
with water, but it's puffing LOTS of smoke on land. I've seen outboads
(Johnson's) after a days fishing flushing engines at the marina. They
don't seem to smoke like mine.

One more question. I took the VRO pump out to replace it and noticed a
little "thing" below it. It's round and has a small red handle with a
schrader valve (sp?) on it. What is it and what does it do?

thank,
-Terry Quan

Tquan wrote:

I noticed a little "thing" below it. It's round and has a small red handle with a
schrader valve (sp?) on it. What is it and what does it do?

thank,
-Terry Quan


Manual choke.

Or, more precisely, manual fuel enrichment for cold start.

Rob

go here www.screamandfly.com for your outboard help.

"Tquan" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello group,

I just purchased a boat with a '91 200 hp Johnson. Been doing some
work on the boat and now have moved onto the engine. I test drove the
boat and it ran fine. Had lots of power and got on plane fast. Idle
fine, but smoked more than I liked. This week I started to do some
work on the engine. I changed the plugs (NGK), water pump, gear lube,
and some fuel line. I did put some regular hose clamps on the fuel
lines. I go to start the engine and it fires up, but starts to smoke
REAL bad. Clouds of white/blue smoke and oily water pouring out of the
hub. It will not idle, but will run above 1200 rpms. So much smoke
that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I
did reading in the Seloc manual and figure that I have some air leaks
in the fuel line.

I took a look at the fuel lines today. They look wet, so I must be
sucking in air right? My first plan is to put new hoses and clamps in
and hope it solves the problem. Where do I find those oem fuel clamps?
Where else should I look for problems?

I did read about taking the VRO out, but I would like to keep it. I
want to run a 4 stroke 9.9 off the main tank and pre mix would kill
this idea.

TIA,
-Terry Quan

"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
Tquan wrote:

I noticed a little "thing" below it. It's round and has a small red
handle with a
schrader valve (sp?) on it. What is it and what does it do?

thank,
-Terry Quan


Manual choke.

Or, more precisely, manual fuel enrichment for cold start.

Rob


Make sure the red lever is turned fulley clockwise so the lever is in line
with the length of the primer solenoid. If it is turned, it would be like
running with the choke on and the motor would run rough and smoke a lot.

Bill Grannis
service manager

"Tquan" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks Bill,

I took the pump out and waiting on a new one to come. Even if it
worked the unit is 10+ years old, so probably will be a good idea to
replace it.

-Terry Quan


Be sure that you ordered the whole pump KIT and not just the pump itself.
The price is about the same but the kit includes more parts and the pulse
limiter that needs to be changed.

Bill Grannis
service manager

On 31 Aug 2005 05:38:32 -0700, "Tquan" wrote:

One more question. I took the VRO pump out to replace it and noticed a
little "thing" below it. It's round and has a small red handle with a
schrader valve (sp?) on it. What is it and what does it do?

The Schrader valve is for injecting a couple of things
that they recommend at times:

A fogging oil for seasonal storage (instructions on
the can of fogging oil).

A decarbonizing fluid (again, instructions are
on the can).

I've used both in my '91 Evinrude and found the
fogging oil delivery to be convenient compared
to squirting it directly into the carb mouths.

I also found that the decarbonizing fluid left
me with a much cleaner engine -- free floating
rings, mostly -- than comparable engines that
had not done this regularly. I think that
modern gasolines and the mixed in oils are
prone to leaving carbon deposits around the
rings if not treated regularly. Do follow
the instructions, especially as to timing,
engine temperature and burn-out for the
decarbonizing fluid.