200 hp Johnson smoking like a train
 

Hello group,

I just purchased a boat with a '91 200 hp Johnson. Been doing some
work on the boat and now have moved onto the engine. I test drove the
boat and it ran fine. Had lots of power and got on plane fast. Idle
fine, but smoked more than I liked. This week I started to do some
work on the engine. I changed the plugs (NGK), water pump, gear lube,
and some fuel line. I did put some regular hose clamps on the fuel
lines. I go to start the engine and it fires up, but starts to smoke
REAL bad. Clouds of white/blue smoke and oily water pouring out of the
hub. It will not idle, but will run above 1200 rpms. So much smoke
that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I
did reading in the Seloc manual and figure that I have some air leaks
in the fuel line.

I took a look at the fuel lines today. They look wet, so I must be
sucking in air right? My first plan is to put new hoses and clamps in
and hope it solves the problem. Where do I find those oem fuel clamps?
Where else should I look for problems?

I did read about taking the VRO out, but I would like to keep it. I
want to run a 4 stroke 9.9 off the main tank and pre mix would kill
this idea.

TIA,
-Terry Quan

I just purchased a boat with a '91 200 hp Johnson.

I go to start the engine and it fires up, but starts to smoke
REAL bad. Clouds of white/blue smoke and oily water pouring out of the
hub. It will not idle, but will run above 1200 rpms. So much smoke
that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I
did reading in the Seloc manual and figure that I have some air leaks
in the fuel line.


Get rid of the NGK plugs and use the Champion QL77JC4 gapped at .030" for
best results. Check the cylinderheads to make sure the motor is coming up to
temperature at idle to about 140 degrees or so. If not, change the
thermostats and check the rest of the cooling system.

From your description, it sounds like you have a leaky oil outlet check
valve inside the "VRO" pump. The only fix, if that is the case, is to
replace the pump. The latest ones, 1998 and later, are completely repairable
and rebuildable, and are simpler inside. For more information on the "VRO"
and troubleshooting, go to:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

Bill Grannis
service manager

that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I



Are you running it in the bathtub?

Thanks Bill,

I took the pump out and waiting on a new one to come. Even if it
worked the unit is 10+ years old, so probably will be a good idea to
replace it.

-Terry Quan

Running it on the garden hose right now. I know it will run different
with water, but it's puffing LOTS of smoke on land. I've seen outboads
(Johnson's) after a days fishing flushing engines at the marina. They
don't seem to smoke like mine.

One more question. I took the VRO pump out to replace it and noticed a
little "thing" below it. It's round and has a small red handle with a
schrader valve (sp?) on it. What is it and what does it do?

thank,
-Terry Quan

Tquan wrote:

I noticed a little "thing" below it. It's round and has a small red handle with a
schrader valve (sp?) on it. What is it and what does it do?

thank,
-Terry Quan


Manual choke.

Or, more precisely, manual fuel enrichment for cold start.

Rob

go here www.screamandfly.com for your outboard help.

"Tquan" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello group,

I just purchased a boat with a '91 200 hp Johnson. Been doing some
work on the boat and now have moved onto the engine. I test drove the
boat and it ran fine. Had lots of power and got on plane fast. Idle
fine, but smoked more than I liked. This week I started to do some
work on the engine. I changed the plugs (NGK), water pump, gear lube,
and some fuel line. I did put some regular hose clamps on the fuel
lines. I go to start the engine and it fires up, but starts to smoke
REAL bad. Clouds of white/blue smoke and oily water pouring out of the
hub. It will not idle, but will run above 1200 rpms. So much smoke
that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I
did reading in the Seloc manual and figure that I have some air leaks
in the fuel line.

I took a look at the fuel lines today. They look wet, so I must be
sucking in air right? My first plan is to put new hoses and clamps in
and hope it solves the problem. Where do I find those oem fuel clamps?
Where else should I look for problems?

I did read about taking the VRO out, but I would like to keep it. I
want to run a 4 stroke 9.9 off the main tank and pre mix would kill
this idea.

TIA,
-Terry Quan

"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
Tquan wrote:

I noticed a little "thing" below it. It's round and has a small red
handle with a
schrader valve (sp?) on it. What is it and what does it do?

thank,
-Terry Quan


Manual choke.

Or, more precisely, manual fuel enrichment for cold start.

Rob


Make sure the red lever is turned fulley clockwise so the lever is in line
with the length of the primer solenoid. If it is turned, it would be like
running with the choke on and the motor would run rough and smoke a lot.

Bill Grannis
service manager

"Tquan" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks Bill,

I took the pump out and waiting on a new one to come. Even if it
worked the unit is 10+ years old, so probably will be a good idea to
replace it.

-Terry Quan


Be sure that you ordered the whole pump KIT and not just the pump itself.
The price is about the same but the kit includes more parts and the pulse
limiter that needs to be changed.

Bill Grannis
service manager

On 31 Aug 2005 05:38:32 -0700, "Tquan" wrote:

One more question. I took the VRO pump out to replace it and noticed a
little "thing" below it. It's round and has a small red handle with a
schrader valve (sp?) on it. What is it and what does it do?

The Schrader valve is for injecting a couple of things
that they recommend at times:

A fogging oil for seasonal storage (instructions on
the can of fogging oil).

A decarbonizing fluid (again, instructions are
on the can).

I've used both in my '91 Evinrude and found the
fogging oil delivery to be convenient compared
to squirting it directly into the carb mouths.

I also found that the decarbonizing fluid left
me with a much cleaner engine -- free floating
rings, mostly -- than comparable engines that
had not done this regularly. I think that
modern gasolines and the mixed in oils are
prone to leaving carbon deposits around the
rings if not treated regularly. Do follow
the instructions, especially as to timing,
engine temperature and burn-out for the
decarbonizing fluid.

Yes, I purchased a 5004558 kit with the pulse limiter.

-Terry

Just went out to check on that red handle. It was turned fully counter
clockwise! I just turned it fully clockwise and will wait on the new
pump kit to come. It should be running like a champ when I put it back
together.

BTW, thanks to all that have replied

-Terry

Make sure the red lever is turned fulley clockwise so the lever is in line
with the length of the primer solenoid. If it is turned, it would be like
running with the choke on and the motor would run rough and smoke a lot.

Bill Grannis
service manager

In article . com,
"Tquan" wrote:

Yes, I purchased a 5004558 kit with the pulse limiter.

-Terry

How much was the kit?

In article . com,
says...
Hello group,

I just purchased a boat with a '91 200 hp Johnson. Been doing some
work on the boat and now have moved onto the engine. I test drove the
boat and it ran fine. Had lots of power and got on plane fast. Idle
fine, but smoked more than I liked. This week I started to do some
work on the engine. I changed the plugs (NGK), water pump, gear lube,
and some fuel line. I did put some regular hose clamps on the fuel
lines. I go to start the engine and it fires up, but starts to smoke
REAL bad. Clouds of white/blue smoke and oily water pouring out of the
hub. It will not idle, but will run above 1200 rpms. So much smoke
that the cloud of oil takes 5 minutes to clear the house, yikes!! I
did reading in the Seloc manual and figure that I have some air leaks
in the fuel line.

I took a look at the fuel lines today. They look wet, so I must be
sucking in air right? My first plan is to put new hoses and clamps in
and hope it solves the problem. Where do I find those oem fuel clamps?
Where else should I look for problems?

I did read about taking the VRO out, but I would like to keep it. I
want to run a 4 stroke 9.9 off the main tank and pre mix would kill
this idea.

TIA,
-Terry Quan



Was out a couple of weeks ago and had some trouble restarting the
engine. When it did catch it wouldn't idle, was pouring out smoke like
crazy and by the time I got back to the dock I'd used more then twice
the usual amount of oil I would normally have.

The problem was simply that the electrical connection controlling the
the VRO had worked loose and the unregulated flow was giving me a super
high oil mix to the engine.

Check yours for connection and possible corrosion interfering with the
control signals.

As for the fuel lines. If you have to prime the engine to start it by
squeezing the bulb till it is hard do so then let it sit. If you have an
air leak in the system you will lose pressure in the system and the bulb
will get squeezable quickly rather then holding the pressure.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

James Hebert wrote:
In article . com,
"Tquan" wrote:

Yes, I purchased a 5004558 kit with the pulse limiter.

-Terry

How much was the kit?

The kit was $200. Came with a new blue pulse valve, and a bunch of
elbow hose ends.

-Terry

Mike,

I will also check out the plug and connection, thanks! I had a bunch
of small problems that probably caused the motor to run bad.

Here is a list of some of the things I did so far:
1.)Put the manual primer valve in the "run" position.
2.)Bought a new VRO pump kit
3.)Removed the Walmart TCW3 and replaced with Quicksilver Premium Plus
4.)Put the new pulse valve in
5.)Bought new OEM lines, tee's, rachet clamps, and primer bulbs for the
gas and oil

I'm still waiting for the lines and fittings to get here. It should be
running like a champ in a few days. I'll post the results later.

-Terry Quan

Was out a couple of weeks ago and had some trouble restarting the
engine. When it did catch it wouldn't idle, was pouring out smoke like
crazy and by the time I got back to the dock I'd used more then twice
the usual amount of oil I would normally have.

The problem was simply that the electrical connection controlling the
the VRO had worked loose and the unregulated flow was giving me a super
high oil mix to the engine.

Check yours for connection and possible corrosion interfering with the
control signals.

As for the fuel lines. If you have to prime the engine to start it by
squeezing the bulb till it is hard do so then let it sit. If you have an
air leak in the system you will lose pressure in the system and the bulb
will get squeezable quickly rather then holding the pressure.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

[This followup was posted to rec.boats and a copy was sent to the cited
author.]

In article . com,
says...
Mike,

I will also check out the plug and connection, thanks! I had a bunch
of small problems that probably caused the motor to run bad.

Here is a list of some of the things I did so far:
1.)Put the manual primer valve in the "run" position.
2.)Bought a new VRO pump kit
3.)Removed the Walmart TCW3 and replaced with Quicksilver Premium Plus
4.)Put the new pulse valve in
5.)Bought new OEM lines, tee's, rachet clamps, and primer bulbs for the
gas and oil

I'm still waiting for the lines and fittings to get here. It should be
running like a champ in a few days. I'll post the results later.

-Terry Quan


Good luck, will be looking forward to seeing how you make out.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

I posted a few weeks ago about my 200 hp Johnson smoking bad and
running crappy. The engine is running great now! I replaced the VRO
pump, all of the hoses, clamps, filters, and primer bulbs with oem
parts. Took out the Walmart oil and replaced with some quicksilver
premium plus along with a fresh tank of gas.

Before starting the motor I was very nervous "please run without
smoking" I kept thinking. I got into the boat and primed the gas
untill hard and made sure that oil was in the sight tube. I also made
sure the little red knob was in the run position. Went up to the
console and gave it try. Held the key in a bit while cranking and it
started right up. For the first few seconds it needed some priming,
but soon it started run. I idled the engine for 20 minutes on the
driveway and the smoke was "normal" looking. No more clouds of thick
smoke with oil dumping out of the hub. The motor idles at around 900
rpm and starts with a flick of the key.

I'm taking it out on Sunday for a shake down run in the San Francisco
bay. If everything is running nice I'll take a ride out to the ocean
for some fishing.

I want to thank everybody the helped me get my motor running again. I
think it was a combination of problems. I might have not needed to
replace everything, but it sures feels better when everything is new
and working.

Thanks again,

-Terry Quan