Thru hull exhaust conversion to below the water exhaust
 

We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop on the
I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a do it
yourself project?

It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be lifted to
get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed. There are filler
plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed. Except for lifting
the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip in mufflers but they
will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop on
the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a do it
yourself project?

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be lifted
to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed. There are
filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed. Except for
lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip in mufflers
but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop on
the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a do it
yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with a
switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be lifted
to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed. There are
filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed. Except for
lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip in mufflers
but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop on
the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a do
it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with a
switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim a
noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is being
sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to bring
the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent this
boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.

Check to see if the "Y" pipe is still there, otherwise the engine needs to
be removed to install the system. I was told a 3 db reduction relates to the
a 50% drop to what the ear here's. Go with the mufflers!

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop on
the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a do it
yourself project?

That trailer needs a forward keel roller to protect the front part of the
hull from hitting the trailer frame crosspiece when loading.


"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be
lifted to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed.
There are filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed.
Except for lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip
in mufflers but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull
exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop
on the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a
do it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with
a switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim
a noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is
being sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to
bring the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent
this boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.

"Stanley Barthfarkle" wrote in message
...
That trailer needs a forward keel roller to protect the front part of the
hull from hitting the trailer frame crosspiece when loading.



That was not my question.

There is plenty of protection on the trailer from keeping that from
happening.

That is done with cutouts. Merc and corsa both make them among others.
They are about a grand. I have a set of corsas. Even when in the thru prop
mode you still get some noise out the thru hulls. I added slip-ins and that
made it bearable. Still not nearly as quiet as thru prop alone. If you are
after quiet regular thru prop is the best. Those bolt on mufflers are so so
if you have space. Smaller boats often don't have enough space under the
swim platform for them. They are usually pretty long. Another option is
inside lift mufflers but they have space issues as well. You'll find most
of these options to be quite pricy. You can get a used thru hull Y pipe and
the hook up usually pretty cheaply. You just need to pull the outdrive and
lift the motor.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be lifted
to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed. There are
filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed. Except for
lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip in mufflers
but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop on
the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a do
it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with a
switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?

Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks pretty
old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the top of my
head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be
lifted to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed.
There are filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed.
Except for lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at slip
in mufflers but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull
exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop
on the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a
do it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with
a switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim
a noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is
being sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to
bring the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent
this boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the past
25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:08:26 -0400, "*JimH*" wrote:


"Stanley Barthfarkle" wrote in message
. ..
That trailer needs a forward keel roller to protect the front part of
the
hull from hitting the trailer frame crosspiece when loading.



That was not my question.

There is plenty of protection on the trailer from keeping that from
happening.


Actually, Jim, he may be right. I'm considering just that sort of
change to my trailer... and even dropping the front cross member to
facilitate the change. Due to the angle of my local ramp, my bow
contacts the bow support and goes "high and dry" with the bow, while
the stern floats. After the vessel is solely supported by the trailer,
I find that an inordinate amount of weight is supported by the bow
support.

The practical consideration is that the bow "runs aground" and the
stern "floats around" during the trailering sequence.

It might be worth a "look see."

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/
Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide



I will look to see if there is any deterioration of the keel from the
potential problem you noted. I did not see any when I looked at the boat
this afternoon. I would think that one of the owners would have noted it
over the past 16 years if it were a problem with a fairly simple solution.

We plan to dock the boat during the season and it will see the trailer only
at the end of the season and through winter.

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 20:50:55 -0400, "*JimH*" wrote:


"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
link.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1989! That is old as hell! Rocks don't get that old! Geeze, what an
idiot.... nobody would buy a boat that old......

PS.
Don't tell anybody, but mine is a 1987 model..... and I still get
compliments on the boat....

PPS
Damn nice boat. Go for it. Tell the bubble-boat aficionados to bit
you.... Hope you guys can make the deal and have a great time!

PPPS
Don't tell any body else our boats are OLD!

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/
Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide


Thanks Gene. I was even looking at a 1985 fixer upper that I could make
decent over the winter provided the hull and engine were in good shape. The
thing is that it is a foot smaller, had less horses and needed a replacement
of the entire interior and canvas.....all for an asking price of $4,900.
Who knows what a structural survey would have yielded.

At least with this one I get to test drive it for a full week and then go
through the structural survey and compression check I we decide we like it.
Our surveyor has already given us a thumbs up on the model.

How can you go wrong on a basic 21 footer in good shape and a hefty engine
for $5,000 with trailer?

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 21:02:34 -0400, "*JimH*" wrote:


I will look to see if there is any deterioration of the keel from the
potential problem you noted. I did not see any when I looked at the boat
this afternoon. I would think that one of the owners would have noted it
over the past 16 years if it were a problem with a fairly simple solution.

We plan to dock the boat during the season and it will see the trailer
only
at the end of the season and through winter.


Ooops... didn't mean to imply structural problems... frankly, there
might not an deterioration... it is just a matter of making it an
easier matter of re-trailering...

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/
Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide



Thanks Gene. What sort of modifications to the trailer would you suggest
based on the picture?

We will be trailering this boat to Kelleys Island next week and dropping it
in the water on Sunday, retrieving it back onto the trailer after a full
week in the water the following Sunday. I can make note of any retrieval
problems then.

The lack of bottom paint and my ability to properly clean the hull after
sitting a full week in the water concerns me though.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
It almost always is an option. In most cases the engine has to be
lifted to get the pipe that routes down to the lower unit installed.
There are filler plates to cover where the thru hull tips are removed.
Except for lifting the engine it is simple work. You might look at
slip in mufflers but they will still be a lot louder than thru prop.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...
We are looking at a nice 21 footer to use for water skiing, tubing and
general use on Lake Erie. The problem is that it has thru hull
exhaust.

Is it easy to convert to an below the water exhaust (through the prop
on the I/O)? How much money in materials would be involved? Is it a
do it yourself project?






I have seen boats that can transfer from thru hull to thru the prop with
a switch. Any idea the cost of such conversion?


Also...do you have any experience with the screw on mufflers? Some claim
a noise reduction of 12 dBA which is quite significant.

Here are some I am looking at:

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/cata...%2 DFull+Time

I am not a go fast boater. I don't like loud boats. But this boat is
being sold at a bargain price as the owner needs the cash. All I want to
bring the noise from this 260 hp 5.7L down to a nice purr.

To make the deal even more attractive the owner is renting the boat to us
for a week during our trip to Kelley's Island next week, with the rental
applied towards the purchase if it passes structural and mechanical
(including compression test) surveys.

Even if the surveys fall through we would have spent only $400 to rent
this boat for a full week. Quite a bargain.

Here is the boat: http://tinyurl.com/9cen8

The registration numbers on the hull have been blurred/paintshop sprayed
over for privacy reasons.




Boat may not be as loud as you think it will be. I have thru hull exhaust.
Jetboat. And the new 350 MPI engine is a lot quieter than the former 351W.
so it may be with a 260 HP motor may not be loud at all. Drive it an try
it. Look at some of the tourny ski boats and you can see the exhaust
muffler system. Maybe you could find a wrecked skiboat and buy the muffler.

Around 8/2/2005 6:00 PM, Gene Kearns wrote:

PPPS
Don't tell any body else our boats are OLD!

Well, they're not *that* old...


:P
--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 21:59:48 -0700, Garth Almgren
wrote:

Around 8/2/2005 6:00 PM, Gene Kearns wrote:

PPPS
Don't tell any body else our boats are OLD!

Well, they're not *that* old...

Really, no.... when I see quite a few 2-3 times that old... in daily
service.... and they are wooden!

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/
Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide



We are headed out later today for an early evening cruise tonight on our
friend's 1966 26 foot Lyman (wood). A wood boat almost 40 years
old.........I shall fear for my life (while having a fun time on it). ;-)

That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k estimate
is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture. Does sound like you're
getting a decent price on it. I don't need an optometrist. The
construction techniques employed about that time do not particularly make
for a long life expectancy. It has nothing to do with the hours on the
motor. The encapsulated wood is usually well soaked after the first 5 years
or so. I would check the transom, floor, and if possible stringers closely.
It's not a bargain of you find that the transom is rotted.

And I did answer your question on switchable exhaust. It was in my prior
post.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the
past 25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?

40 is not old for a wood boat. But 15 is old for a wood encapsulated
fiberglass boat.

I think if you do some research on fiberglass boats you'll learn that
fiberglass turned out to be not really very water proof. Over years
continual exposure to water results in the transoms, stringers and floors
becoming water saturated. This predicament was made worse when laws passed
requiring boats under 25' to float even when filled with water. The
solution to that was to inject expanding foam under the floors. The foam
further traps the water against the floor and stringers worsening the
situation. If you drill into many older fiberglass boats you'll find most
of the wood is completely wet. And it will not dry out.

Today a number of companies have eliminated wood entirely from their
fiberglass boats.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 21:59:48 -0700, Garth Almgren
wrote:

Around 8/2/2005 6:00 PM, Gene Kearns wrote:

PPPS
Don't tell any body else our boats are OLD!

Well, they're not *that* old...

Really, no.... when I see quite a few 2-3 times that old... in daily
service.... and they are wooden!

--

_ ___c
\ _| \_
__\_| oooo \_____
~~~~|______________/ ~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~~
~~~ ~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/ Homepage*
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide



We are headed out later today for an early evening cruise tonight on our
friend's 1966 26 foot Lyman (wood). A wood boat almost 40 years
old.........I shall fear for my life (while having a fun time on it).
;-)

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
. net...
40 is not old for a wood boat. But 15 is old for a wood encapsulated
fiberglass boat.

I think if you do some research on fiberglass boats you'll learn that
fiberglass turned out to be not really very water proof. Over years
continual exposure to water results in the transoms, stringers and floors
becoming water saturated. This predicament was made worse when laws
passed requiring boats under 25' to float even when filled with water.
The solution to that was to inject expanding foam under the floors. The
foam further traps the water against the floor and stringers worsening the
situation. If you drill into many older fiberglass boats you'll find most
of the wood is completely wet. And it will not dry out.

Today a number of companies have eliminated wood entirely from their
fiberglass boats.

Jamesgang...I know about fiberglass boats and do not need a lecture from you
about them. I am, however, glad to see you are an *expert* on fiberglass
and wood boat construction......I may defer to you later asking for your
expert opinion. ;-)

Just so you know, my friend with the 1966 Lyman (we were on it just tonight)
has spent over $30,000 in structural and top side repairs on his wood boat
over the past 4 years, a price far exceeding what the boat is actually
worth. Some folks, however, just love their boats and do not consider the
cost of repairs. He admitted so tonight. Yet this is a boat built for Lake
Erie and known for it's quality construction and ability to take on the
rough Lake Erie seas. The funny thing is that he always had to follow me in
my fiberglass boat when the lake got rough and we had to high tail it back
home, including an especially bad Lake during a passage from Leaminton,
Canada to Huron, OH. Imagine that. ;-)

I do not know whether or not this boat we are considering has wood
encapsulate stringers. If you can provide some information to that effect
it would be greatly appreciated. Regardless, if we consider buying this
boat after our one week *trial and water test* we will certainly have it
surveyed by one of the best surveyors in our area, and have a compression
test done on the engine.

If you can supply other specifics on the boat's construction and quality it
would really be appreciated.

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k
estimate is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture. Does sound
like you're getting a decent price on it. I don't need an optometrist.
The construction techniques employed about that time do not particularly
make for a long life expectancy. It has nothing to do with the hours on
the motor. The encapsulated wood is usually well soaked after the first 5
years or so. I would check the transom, floor, and if possible stringers
closely. It's not a bargain of you find that the transom is rotted.

And I did answer your question on switchable exhaust. It was in my prior
post.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
nk.net...
Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the
past 25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k
estimate is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture.

Thanks for your advice but I would not consider an appraisal of a boats
worth based only on a picture.

Thanks for your opinion..............but no thanks. ;-)

*JimH* wrote:
"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...

That would be about how old I would have figured. I'd say my $5-6k
estimate is still pretty darn close based on one 3x5 picture. Does sound
like you're getting a decent price on it. I don't need an optometrist.
The construction techniques employed about that time do not particularly
make for a long life expectancy. It has nothing to do with the hours on
the motor. The encapsulated wood is usually well soaked after the first 5
years or so. I would check the transom, floor, and if possible stringers
closely. It's not a bargain of you find that the transom is rotted.

And I did answer your question on switchable exhaust. It was in my prior
post.

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
hlink.net...

Nothing personal but what do you consider a bargain? That boat looks
pretty old. What year is it? Have you checked the blue book? Off the
top of my head I'd bet something around 5 or 6 grand.


The boat looks old? May I suggest that you see your optometrist?

It is a 1989 with low hours.

1990 models are selling (not retailing) for $8,500.

I can get this one for $5,000, including a weeks use on vacation prior to
the survey.

NADA lists it at $7,000 without trailer, average retail. This boat has a
trailer.

I did not check BUC but I will prior to the purchase.

I did not just fall out of the turnip truck. I have owned boat for the
past 25 years and know what is a good buy.

So back to my original question.. Can you answer it?


Hold on a sec...weren't you the same elitist non-boater who trashed me
for spending "my life's savings on a 19' sailboat? Now you turn around
and consider buying a similar sized boat for the same price.
My my...!

Your original post led me to believe you might not know very much about this
kind of boat as you appeared to be unfamiliar with how thru prop exhaust is
accomplished. It's been done the same way on just about all of them for
about 20 years up to now. I'm not an expert on fiberglass/wood construction
but I do know more about it than you. It is pretty much a certainty that
this boat contains encapsulated wood stringers, transom, and floor. When
your surveyor looks at it I suggest you ask him about the topic.

And I believe I was the only person to answer your question about switchable
exhaust. Here's what it looks like.
http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/corsa.jpg If you look towards the
left side of the picture you will see that the cutout coming off the riser
connects both to the Y pipe behind the exhaust manifold and also goes back
to the transom. If you look very closely you can see the lever and solenoid
on the side that opens it. There is an identical setup on the other side of
the engine.

I built this engine and installed it in this boat in case you are wondering
about what I know ;-) lol

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
. net...
40 is not old for a wood boat. But 15 is old for a wood encapsulated
fiberglass boat.

I think if you do some research on fiberglass boats you'll learn that
fiberglass turned out to be not really very water proof. Over years
continual exposure to water results in the transoms, stringers and floors
becoming water saturated. This predicament was made worse when laws
passed requiring boats under 25' to float even when filled with water.
The solution to that was to inject expanding foam under the floors. The
foam further traps the water against the floor and stringers worsening
the situation. If you drill into many older fiberglass boats you'll find
most of the wood is completely wet. And it will not dry out.

Today a number of companies have eliminated wood entirely from their
fiberglass boats.

Jamesgang...I know about fiberglass boats and do not need a lecture from
you about them. I am, however, glad to see you are an *expert* on
fiberglass and wood boat construction......I may defer to you later asking
for your expert opinion. ;-)

Just so you know, my friend with the 1966 Lyman (we were on it just
tonight) has spent over $30,000 in structural and top side repairs on his
wood boat over the past 4 years, a price far exceeding what the boat is
actually worth. Some folks, however, just love their boats and do not
consider the cost of repairs. He admitted so tonight. Yet this is a boat
built for Lake Erie and known for it's quality construction and ability to
take on the rough Lake Erie seas. The funny thing is that he always had
to follow me in my fiberglass boat when the lake got rough and we had to
high tail it back home, including an especially bad Lake during a passage
from Leaminton, Canada to Huron, OH. Imagine that. ;-)

I do not know whether or not this boat we are considering has wood
encapsulate stringers. If you can provide some information to that effect
it would be greatly appreciated. Regardless, if we consider buying this
boat after our one week *trial and water test* we will certainly have it
surveyed by one of the best surveyors in our area, and have a compression
test done on the engine.

If you can supply other specifics on the boat's construction and quality
it would really be appreciated.

Thanks Jamesgang. ;-)


"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
k.net...
Your original post led me to believe you might not know very much about
this kind of boat as you appeared to be unfamiliar with how thru prop
exhaust is accomplished. It's been done the same way on just about all of
them for about 20 years up to now. I'm not an expert on fiberglass/wood
construction but I do know more about it than you. It is pretty much a
certainty that this boat contains encapsulated wood stringers, transom,
and floor. When your surveyor looks at it I suggest you ask him about the
topic.

And I believe I was the only person to answer your question about
switchable exhaust. Here's what it looks like.
http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/corsa.jpg If you look towards the
left side of the picture you will see that the cutout coming off the riser
connects both to the Y pipe behind the exhaust manifold and also goes back
to the transom. If you look very closely you can see the lever and
solenoid on the side that opens it. There is an identical setup on the
other side of the engine.

I built this engine and installed it in this boat in case you are
wondering about what I know ;-) lol

"*JimH*" wrote in message
...

"JamesgangNC" wrote in message
. net...
40 is not old for a wood boat. But 15 is old for a wood encapsulated
fiberglass boat.

I think if you do some research on fiberglass boats you'll learn that
fiberglass turned out to be not really very water proof. Over years
continual exposure to water results in the transoms, stringers and
floors becoming water saturated. This predicament was made worse when
laws passed requiring boats under 25' to float even when filled with
water. The solution to that was to inject expanding foam under the
floors. The foam further traps the water against the floor and
stringers worsening the situation. If you drill into many older
fiberglass boats you'll find most of the wood is completely wet. And it
will not dry out.

Today a number of companies have eliminated wood entirely from their
fiberglass boats.

Jamesgang...I know about fiberglass boats and do not need a lecture from
you about them. I am, however, glad to see you are an *expert* on
fiberglass and wood boat construction......I may defer to you later
asking for your expert opinion. ;-)

Just so you know, my friend with the 1966 Lyman (we were on it just
tonight) has spent over $30,000 in structural and top side repairs on his
wood boat over the past 4 years, a price far exceeding what the boat is
actually worth. Some folks, however, just love their boats and do not
consider the cost of repairs. He admitted so tonight. Yet this is a
boat built for Lake Erie and known for it's quality construction and
ability to take on the rough Lake Erie seas. The funny thing is that he
always had to follow me in my fiberglass boat when the lake got rough and
we had to high tail it back home, including an especially bad Lake during
a passage from Leaminton, Canada to Huron, OH. Imagine that. ;-)

I do not know whether or not this boat we are considering has wood
encapsulate stringers. If you can provide some information to that
effect it would be greatly appreciated. Regardless, if we consider
buying this boat after our one week *trial and water test* we will
certainly have it surveyed by one of the best surveyors in our area, and
have a compression test done on the engine.

If you can supply other specifics on the boat's construction and quality
it would really be appreciated.