I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now, I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry

1. compression test, depending on the engine it shold be around (above) 150
on all cyl. anything below and vastly different then other cyl. may indicate
blown head gasket, worn rings, bad valves. To verify for ring issue squirt
less then tablespoon of oil into the suspected cyl. and redo the test, if
better then rings are worn
2. cooling system pressure test
3. vacuum test, may reveal head gasket, valve issue etc.
4. cylinder pressure test
5. thorough ispection of s.plugs (if different then others = suspect,
especially if cleaner (washed) or rusty

Inspect the engine block for cracks (rust, pealing paint) around the block
drain plugs, remove the oil filter and check for water.
Possible reasons:
cracked engine block
damaged head gasket (or loose)
damaged intake gaskets
water entering through the carb/intake (rain water)
internally cracked raisers/exhaust manifolds
bad raiser or its gasket

Keep an open mind, it doesn't have to be the most expensive (to repair)
reason.


wrote in message
...

I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now, I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry

Compression: front 4 around 180, back 2 190.

Plugs: All look the same. Blacker than plugs from a car but I imagine
a carbureted boat runs richer than a fuel injected car.

Didn't remove the oil filter but I'm sure it has water in it; new oil
run for less than a minute comes out close to white.

Visual inspection: Cannot see any cracks, nothing is leaking from any
part of the engine.

History:
1997 4.3L Volvo, 275 hours. Never had a problem with it.
Last thing done in the fall was drain water and change oil. Oil that I
drained out in the fall looked fine.
Started in the driveway last weekend for the first time this season.
After running engine for a couple minutes (seemed fine) I looked in
the valve cover through the oil cap hole. I don't remember any reason
for doing that, but I noticed there was no oil up there. Totally dry.
Thinking that was odd I decided to change the oil again, just to be
sure. Milky white oil came out (had only been in the engine sitting
over the winter, then run for a couple minutes). Changed the oil
again. Ran for a minute or less. Drained oil. Milky white.

How can I isolate where the water is coming from? I'd like to fix it
myself if possible but understand some things are better left to a
pro. I guess right now I'm at the stage of deciding whether to just
take it to the shop or see what I can do.

Where to go from here?

Thanks for the help,

Terry

On Sat, 08 May 2004 03:45:36 GMT, "Proxy"
wrote:

1. compression test, depending on the engine it shold be around (above) 150
on all cyl. anything below and vastly different then other cyl. may indicate
blown head gasket, worn rings, bad valves. To verify for ring issue squirt
less then tablespoon of oil into the suspected cyl. and redo the test, if
better then rings are worn
2. cooling system pressure test
3. vacuum test, may reveal head gasket, valve issue etc.
4. cylinder pressure test
5. thorough ispection of s.plugs (if different then others = suspect,
especially if cleaner (washed) or rusty

Inspect the engine block for cracks (rust, pealing paint) around the block
drain plugs, remove the oil filter and check for water.
Possible reasons:
cracked engine block
damaged head gasket (or loose)
damaged intake gaskets
water entering through the carb/intake (rain water)
internally cracked raisers/exhaust manifolds
bad raiser or its gasket

Keep an open mind, it doesn't have to be the most expensive (to repair)
reason.


wrote in message
.. .

I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now, I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are you
where it freezes?

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the lifter
valley when the block freezes. I think the castings are thinner there.
Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets water in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing to try
but it is a pain on a boat as you have to clamp plugs in the 3 of the hoses
going to the exhaust and the line coming up from the steering cooler. Then
figure out how to attach a radiator pressure tester to the remaining exhaust
hose. Other possibilites like bad head gaskets or bad intake gaskets
usually also include poor running or low compression on one or more
cylinders. Usually the water leak from a bad gasket will be a lot slower so
another thing to look for is the oil level being noticably higher on the dip
stick. If it looks like its a lot higher then you have a major leak, more
likely a cracked block.

wrote in message
...

I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now, I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are you
where it freezes?
Yes, yes, yes.

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the lifter
valley when the block freezes.
Could I see this by removing the valve covers or does this require
removing the head? (I'm not sure what a lifter valley is).

Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets water in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing to try
Those are my symptoms. Lots of water, very fast. New oil run 1 minute
comes out looking like a milkshake.

This doesn't sound like it's heading toward anything I can do myself.
I'll see what I can do about a cooling system pressure test. Anything
else to check before taking to a shop? Might as well ask: if it's a
cracked block what's it gonna cost me to get fixed?

Thanks for the reply,

Terry

On Sat, 08 May 2004 18:10:52 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are you
where it freezes?

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the lifter
valley when the block freezes. I think the castings are thinner there.
Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets water in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing to try
but it is a pain on a boat as you have to clamp plugs in the 3 of the hoses
going to the exhaust and the line coming up from the steering cooler. Then
figure out how to attach a radiator pressure tester to the remaining exhaust
hose. Other possibilites like bad head gaskets or bad intake gaskets
usually also include poor running or low compression on one or more
cylinders. Usually the water leak from a bad gasket will be a lot slower so
another thing to look for is the oil level being noticably higher on the dip
stick. If it looks like its a lot higher then you have a major leak, more
likely a cracked block.

wrote in message
.. .

I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now, I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry

Hum, it should not have frozzen if you drained the block. The small plugs
on the sides of the engine block just above the oil pan? The ones that are
a real pain to reach because of the exhaust manifold. It should not have
frozen unless water got back in the block somehow. Did you leave all the
plugs out until spring? Does sound like a cracked block :-(

The lifter valley is the part of the block under the intake manifold. It
requires a good deal of dissassembly. I'd try as much as possible to
eliminate everything else before starting to tear down the engine. One you
start taking it apart then it get s a lot harder to pressurize the cooling
system.

I do my own work so I'm not up on labors costs. A cracked block can be
replaced with a rebuilt short block if the heads are still good. The short
block will run a bit under a grand. A rebuilt with heads a bit over.


Terry Haywood wrote in message
...

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are
you
where it freezes?
Yes, yes, yes.

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the
lifter
valley when the block freezes.
Could I see this by removing the valve covers or does this require
removing the head? (I'm not sure what a lifter valley is).

Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets water
in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing to
try
Those are my symptoms. Lots of water, very fast. New oil run 1 minute
comes out looking like a milkshake.

This doesn't sound like it's heading toward anything I can do myself.
I'll see what I can do about a cooling system pressure test. Anything
else to check before taking to a shop? Might as well ask: if it's a
cracked block what's it gonna cost me to get fixed?

Thanks for the reply,

Terry

On Sat, 08 May 2004 18:10:52 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are
you
where it freezes?

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the
lifter
valley when the block freezes. I think the castings are thinner there.
Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets water
in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing to
try
but it is a pain on a boat as you have to clamp plugs in the 3 of the
hoses
going to the exhaust and the line coming up from the steering cooler.
Then
figure out how to attach a radiator pressure tester to the remaining
exhaust
hose. Other possibilites like bad head gaskets or bad intake gaskets
usually also include poor running or low compression on one or more
cylinders. Usually the water leak from a bad gasket will be a lot slower
so
another thing to look for is the oil level being noticably higher on the
dip
stick. If it looks like its a lot higher then you have a major leak,
more
likely a cracked block.

wrote in message
.. .

I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now, I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry

On Sat, 08 May 2004 19:19:59 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

Hum, it should not have frozzen if you drained the block. The small plugs
on the sides of the engine block just above the oil pan? The ones that are
a real pain to reach because of the exhaust manifold. It should not have
frozen unless water got back in the block somehow. Did you leave all the
plugs out until spring? Does sound like a cracked block :-(

Yes, I removed those drain plugs from both sides of the block and left
them out. Also drained the exhaust things and pulled off the cooling
water hoses from the water pump.

It's the same thing I have done for the past few years, don't know
what is different. Agree it sounds like a cracked block.


The lifter valley is the part of the block under the intake manifold. It
requires a good deal of dissassembly. I'd try as much as possible to
If it is a problem in the lifter valley could it be something I could
fix at home? I've done all the work on my cars for years so I'm
reasonably capable if it's at all doable. I've never welded but I can
find somebody who can if that's what we're looking at. My first
impression is if it is a problem with the block I don't know how I
would fix it once I got to it.

Thanks much for your help,

Terry

eliminate everything else before starting to tear down the engine. One you
start taking it apart then it get s a lot harder to pressurize the cooling
system.

I do my own work so I'm not up on labors costs. A cracked block can be
replaced with a rebuilt short block if the heads are still good. The short
block will run a bit under a grand. A rebuilt with heads a bit over.


Terry Haywood wrote in message
.. .

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are
you
where it freezes?
Yes, yes, yes.

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the
lifter
valley when the block freezes.
Could I see this by removing the valve covers or does this require
removing the head? (I'm not sure what a lifter valley is).

Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets water
in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing to
try
Those are my symptoms. Lots of water, very fast. New oil run 1 minute
comes out looking like a milkshake.

This doesn't sound like it's heading toward anything I can do myself.
I'll see what I can do about a cooling system pressure test. Anything
else to check before taking to a shop? Might as well ask: if it's a
cracked block what's it gonna cost me to get fixed?

Thanks for the reply,

Terry

On Sat, 08 May 2004 18:10:52 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are
you
where it freezes?

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the
lifter
valley when the block freezes. I think the castings are thinner there.
Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets water
in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing to
try
but it is a pain on a boat as you have to clamp plugs in the 3 of the
hoses
going to the exhaust and the line coming up from the steering cooler.
Then
figure out how to attach a radiator pressure tester to the remaining
exhaust
hose. Other possibilites like bad head gaskets or bad intake gaskets
usually also include poor running or low compression on one or more
cylinders. Usually the water leak from a bad gasket will be a lot slower
so
another thing to look for is the oil level being noticably higher on the
dip
stick. If it looks like its a lot higher then you have a major leak,
more
likely a cracked block.

wrote in message
.. .

I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now, I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry

Terry Haywood wrote in message
...
On Sat, 08 May 2004 19:19:59 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:


Yes, I removed those drain plugs from both sides of the block and left
them out. Also drained the exhaust things and pulled off the cooling
water hoses from the water pump.

It's the same thing I have done for the past few years, don't know
what is different. Agree it sounds like a cracked block.




Just above the circulation pump, on the front of the intake manifold, there
is a pipe plug that has to be removed to drain trapped water on late model
4.3L engines. Was this done? Many mechanics are not aware of this drain if
they have not attended a training seminar or a factory school concerning
this engine.

The bottom of the intake manifold cracks from the freezing water and when
you fire it up the following spring, cooling water flows thru the crack and
right into the lifter valley, and down to the oil pan. Your best bet is to
pull the manifold and that way you can check for cracks in it and also
inspect the lifter valley walls for freeze cracks.

Bill Grannis
service manager

Terry, I'm having exactly the same dilemma (Look up my posts under subject:
"Blown head gasket or what...?").
Water in the oil and quite a bit of it. This is what I've done so far:
removed intake and exhaust manifolds, cylinder head on suspected side ans
everything looks perfect. No visual signs of any damage. I've put it back
together as I'm not inclined to tear the whole thing apart. My next step is
to flush the cooling system and apply a water based Block Seal. I want to
try pressurizing boats cooling system. Then check it again for leaks. This
"medicine" has been used on cars and I found only one bad feedback on the
net/groups. The options are limited, either little bit of tinkering and
experimentation on an already dead patient or giving up, what equals saying
goodbye to about 1.5 to 2 grands. The amount of water I get is about a galon
for about 20 min. operation on earmuffs. I'd say that cooling pressure test
is strongly recommended. Both of us are about at the same point right now.
With good compression test I would advice against taking the cyl. head off.
This move has not brought me any closer to a solution.
My suggestion is to make a simple kit to pressure test (the use of a gage is
not crucial, you run once "feeling" the pressure few sec. after
pressurizing, and second 2-3 min after pressurizing, compare the "feal").
I'm an amateur as well and try to fix it on the cheap. I geuss life will
verify that soon. I hope to finish all these steps by Tuesday weather
permitting.
Good luck.


Terry Haywood wrote in message
...
On Sat, 08 May 2004 19:19:59 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

Hum, it should not have frozzen if you drained the block. The small
plugs
on the sides of the engine block just above the oil pan? The ones that
are
a real pain to reach because of the exhaust manifold. It should not have
frozen unless water got back in the block somehow. Did you leave all the
plugs out until spring? Does sound like a cracked block :-(

Yes, I removed those drain plugs from both sides of the block and left
them out. Also drained the exhaust things and pulled off the cooling
water hoses from the water pump.

It's the same thing I have done for the past few years, don't know
what is different. Agree it sounds like a cracked block.


The lifter valley is the part of the block under the intake manifold. It
requires a good deal of dissassembly. I'd try as much as possible to
If it is a problem in the lifter valley could it be something I could
fix at home? I've done all the work on my cars for years so I'm
reasonably capable if it's at all doable. I've never welded but I can
find somebody who can if that's what we're looking at. My first
impression is if it is a problem with the block I don't know how I
would fix it once I got to it.

Thanks much for your help,

Terry

eliminate everything else before starting to tear down the engine. One
you
start taking it apart then it get s a lot harder to pressurize the
cooling
system.

I do my own work so I'm not up on labors costs. A cracked block can be
replaced with a rebuilt short block if the heads are still good. The
short
block will run a bit under a grand. A rebuilt with heads a bit over.


Terry Haywood wrote in message
.. .

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are
you
where it freezes?
Yes, yes, yes.

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the
lifter
valley when the block freezes.
Could I see this by removing the valve covers or does this require
removing the head? (I'm not sure what a lifter valley is).

Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets
water
in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing
to
try
Those are my symptoms. Lots of water, very fast. New oil run 1 minute
comes out looking like a milkshake.

This doesn't sound like it's heading toward anything I can do myself.
I'll see what I can do about a cooling system pressure test. Anything
else to check before taking to a shop? Might as well ask: if it's a
cracked block what's it gonna cost me to get fixed?

Thanks for the reply,

Terry

On Sat, 08 May 2004 18:10:52 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside? Are
you
where it freezes?

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside the
lifter
valley when the block freezes. I think the castings are thinner
there.
Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets
water
in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good thing
to
try
but it is a pain on a boat as you have to clamp plugs in the 3 of the
hoses
going to the exhaust and the line coming up from the steering cooler.
Then
figure out how to attach a radiator pressure tester to the remaining
exhaust
hose. Other possibilites like bad head gaskets or bad intake gaskets
usually also include poor running or low compression on one or more
cylinders. Usually the water leak from a bad gasket will be a lot
slower
so
another thing to look for is the oil level being noticably higher on
the
dip
stick. If it looks like its a lot higher then you have a major leak,
more
likely a cracked block.

wrote in message
.. .

I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at
the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now,
I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry