You tell me, I'd advise against any type or blind search, waste of time and
MONEY. Look in can.rec.boating under the same header that I gave you (my
posts and discussion thoughts about how to pressurize, test and seal the
block in the open system ). More time you spend diagnosing and inspecting
the engine less money and time you will spend fixing it. Since I have 2
boats I was eager to crack one open as a learning experience hoping for some
luck. Of course nothing happened. I'm exactly where I was and 150 bucks
lighter. If mechanics can buy Magnaflux so can you (look up on their website
for distribution points in your area). I would do nothing, not even
manifolds (unless your engine stalls or is idling rough on the hose, if not,
don't touch them). Your plugs were OK (may point to manifold) so there is
likelihood of either cracked block or the intake. If you feel the urge to do
something then I'd rather take the intake out. Will give you more info and
allow for better inspection. My guess is that your manifolds are OK. Spend
more time preparing rather then executing your attack.




Terry Haywood wrote in message
...

It does sound like we're in the same boat (gallows humor). I'm pulling
the i-manifold tomorrow, hopefully find something obvious. I hadn't
thought about Block Seal. I may try that... How do you put it into an
open system? The directions I read say it goes in the radiator where
it would circulate forever. In a boat it seems it would just wash
through and dump out the back.

Best of luck. I'll let you know how mine turns out.

On Sat, 08 May 2004 23:29:30 GMT, "Proxy"
wrote:

Terry, I'm having exactly the same dilemma (Look up my posts under
subject:
"Blown head gasket or what...?").
Water in the oil and quite a bit of it. This is what I've done so far:
removed intake and exhaust manifolds, cylinder head on suspected side ans
everything looks perfect. No visual signs of any damage. I've put it back
together as I'm not inclined to tear the whole thing apart. My next step
is
to flush the cooling system and apply a water based Block Seal. I want to
try pressurizing boats cooling system. Then check it again for leaks.
This
"medicine" has been used on cars and I found only one bad feedback on the
net/groups. The options are limited, either little bit of tinkering and
experimentation on an already dead patient or giving up, what equals
saying
goodbye to about 1.5 to 2 grands. The amount of water I get is about a
galon
for about 20 min. operation on earmuffs. I'd say that cooling pressure
test
is strongly recommended. Both of us are about at the same point right
now.
With good compression test I would advice against taking the cyl. head
off.
This move has not brought me any closer to a solution.
My suggestion is to make a simple kit to pressure test (the use of a gage
is
not crucial, you run once "feeling" the pressure few sec. after
pressurizing, and second 2-3 min after pressurizing, compare the "feal").
I'm an amateur as well and try to fix it on the cheap. I geuss life will
verify that soon. I hope to finish all these steps by Tuesday weather
permitting.
Good luck.


Terry Haywood wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 08 May 2004 19:19:59 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

Hum, it should not have frozzen if you drained the block. The small
plugs
on the sides of the engine block just above the oil pan? The ones
that
are
a real pain to reach because of the exhaust manifold. It should not
have
frozen unless water got back in the block somehow. Did you leave all
the
plugs out until spring? Does sound like a cracked block :-(

Yes, I removed those drain plugs from both sides of the block and left
them out. Also drained the exhaust things and pulled off the cooling
water hoses from the water pump.

It's the same thing I have done for the past few years, don't know
what is different. Agree it sounds like a cracked block.


The lifter valley is the part of the block under the intake manifold.
It
requires a good deal of dissassembly. I'd try as much as possible to
If it is a problem in the lifter valley could it be something I could
fix at home? I've done all the work on my cars for years so I'm
reasonably capable if it's at all doable. I've never welded but I can
find somebody who can if that's what we're looking at. My first
impression is if it is a problem with the block I don't know how I
would fix it once I got to it.

Thanks much for your help,

Terry

eliminate everything else before starting to tear down the engine.
One
you
start taking it apart then it get s a lot harder to pressurize the
cooling
system.

I do my own work so I'm not up on labors costs. A cracked block can
be
replaced with a rebuilt short block if the heads are still good. The
short
block will run a bit under a grand. A rebuilt with heads a bit over.


Terry Haywood wrote in message
.. .

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside?
Are
you
where it freezes?
Yes, yes, yes.

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside
the
lifter
valley when the block freezes.
Could I see this by removing the valve covers or does this require
removing the head? (I'm not sure what a lifter valley is).

Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets
water
in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good
thing
to
try
Those are my symptoms. Lots of water, very fast. New oil run 1
minute
comes out looking like a milkshake.

This doesn't sound like it's heading toward anything I can do
myself.
I'll see what I can do about a cooling system pressure test.
Anything
else to check before taking to a shop? Might as well ask: if it's a
cracked block what's it gonna cost me to get fixed?

Thanks for the reply,

Terry

On Sat, 08 May 2004 18:10:52 GMT, "Lawrence James"
wrote:

Did you drain the block at the end of last year? Stored outside?
Are
you
where it freezes?

Late model Chevy v6s and v8s have a bad habit of cracking inside
the
lifter
valley when the block freezes. I think the castings are thinner
there.
Symptoms are good compression on all cylinders, runs fine, but gets
water
in
the oil. A pressure test of the cooling system would be a good
thing
to
try
but it is a pain on a boat as you have to clamp plugs in the 3 of
the
hoses
going to the exhaust and the line coming up from the steering
cooler.
Then
figure out how to attach a radiator pressure tester to the
remaining
exhaust
hose. Other possibilites like bad head gaskets or bad intake
gaskets
usually also include poor running or low compression on one or more
cylinders. Usually the water leak from a bad gasket will be a lot
slower
so
another thing to look for is the oil level being noticably higher
on
the
dip
stick. If it looks like its a lot higher then you have a major
leak,
more
likely a cracked block.

wrote in message
.. .

I checked out my Volvo 4.3L (275 hours) for the first time this
season. Ran the engine for a few minutes and checked the oil. It
was
milky white, apparently mixed with water. The last thing I did at
the
end of the season was change the oil, haven't run it since then.

Changed the oil, ran for a minute, checked again. Milky white.

My guess is something froze over the winter. Is there anything I
can
check that I could possibly fix myself, or should I just bite the
bullet and take to a mechanic?

A friend suggested a running compression test. It's too dark now,
I'll
do that in the morning.

Any other diagnostic suggestions?

Thanks,

Terry