Help: 1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Does anyone know how to repair the electric shift solenoid system on a 1976
OMC outdrive? I have the Clymer manual, but I am very unclear how this is
done.

Thanks

Jim Rojas

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Since you have a manual, I assume you already know you have 2 shifting coils
in the lower unit. Find the dark blue and dark green wires that come out of
the shifter. Follow them back and you should find quick disconnects behind
the motor and just before they go into the lower unit. Disconnect them and
with ignition on be sure you have 12V coming to them from the shifter . Blue
is reverse and green is fwd. Be sure the lower unit is grounded good. If
voltage is good, check each coil for continuity. I can't remember for sure,
but I think they should read around 6 ohms.

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know how to repair the electric shift solenoid system on a
1976
OMC outdrive? I have the Clymer manual, but I am very unclear how this is
done.

Thanks

Jim Rojas

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Yes, I applied power to each leg and got no action or engaging sounds. I
guess my question is how difficult is this to replace?

The trim motor was also not working...once I removed the lower unit, I took
apart the trim motor. The trim motor was shot...I ordered an aftermarket
unit from an ebay vendor for $135, which included shipping. My local boat
shop wanted $329 for a rebuilt motor.

I only paid $200 for the boat...so any time I spend repairing it is kinda
fun. The motor did not run as well. I pulled the carburetor and installed a
rebuild kit. Motor turned over the first try, and runs strong. The exhaust
manifold needs to be replaced, but other than the other minor problems, I
should be able to get it in the water in a few weeks.

Thanks for replying.

Jim Rojas


"WRH" wrote in message
news:hgykc.25035$f_5.19750@lakeread01...
Since you have a manual, I assume you already know you have 2 shifting
coils
in the lower unit. Find the dark blue and dark green wires that come out
of
the shifter. Follow them back and you should find quick disconnects behind
the motor and just before they go into the lower unit. Disconnect them and
with ignition on be sure you have 12V coming to them from the shifter .
Blue
is reverse and green is fwd. Be sure the lower unit is grounded good. If
voltage is good, check each coil for continuity. I can't remember for
sure,
but I think they should read around 6 ohms.

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know how to repair the electric shift solenoid system on a
1976
OMC outdrive? I have the Clymer manual, but I am very unclear how this
is
done.

Thanks

Jim Rojas

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Did you check continuity through the coils?

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
...
Yes, I applied power to each leg and got no action or engaging sounds. I
guess my question is how difficult is this to replace?

The trim motor was also not working...once I removed the lower unit, I
took
apart the trim motor. The trim motor was shot...I ordered an aftermarket
unit from an ebay vendor for $135, which included shipping. My local boat
shop wanted $329 for a rebuilt motor.

I only paid $200 for the boat...so any time I spend repairing it is kinda
fun. The motor did not run as well. I pulled the carburetor and installed
a
rebuild kit. Motor turned over the first try, and runs strong. The exhaust
manifold needs to be replaced, but other than the other minor problems, I
should be able to get it in the water in a few weeks.

Thanks for replying.

Jim Rojas


"WRH" wrote in message
news:hgykc.25035$f_5.19750@lakeread01...
Since you have a manual, I assume you already know you have 2 shifting
coils
in the lower unit. Find the dark blue and dark green wires that come out
of
the shifter. Follow them back and you should find quick disconnects
behind
the motor and just before they go into the lower unit. Disconnect them
and
with ignition on be sure you have 12V coming to them from the shifter .
Blue
is reverse and green is fwd. Be sure the lower unit is grounded good. If
voltage is good, check each coil for continuity. I can't remember for
sure,
but I think they should read around 6 ohms.

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know how to repair the electric shift solenoid system on a
1976
OMC outdrive? I have the Clymer manual, but I am very unclear how this
is
done.

Thanks

Jim Rojas

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

As soon as I figure out where the coils are located, I'll let you know.

There was a splice on the outside of the drive. Someone used an orange
extension cord to complete the connection into the transom. I took that
apart and applied voltage on each wire, using the chassis as common ground.
I got nothing so far.

I will read the book a little more. Maybe it will show me exactly where the
coils are located.

Thanks

Jim Rojas


"WRH" wrote in message
news:xKAkc.31620$f_5.11426@lakeread01...
Did you check continuity through the coils?

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
...
Yes, I applied power to each leg and got no action or engaging sounds. I
guess my question is how difficult is this to replace?

The trim motor was also not working...once I removed the lower unit, I
took
apart the trim motor. The trim motor was shot...I ordered an aftermarket
unit from an ebay vendor for $135, which included shipping. My local
boat
shop wanted $329 for a rebuilt motor.

I only paid $200 for the boat...so any time I spend repairing it is
kinda
fun. The motor did not run as well. I pulled the carburetor and
installed
a
rebuild kit. Motor turned over the first try, and runs strong. The
exhaust
manifold needs to be replaced, but other than the other minor problems,
I
should be able to get it in the water in a few weeks.

Thanks for replying.

Jim Rojas


"WRH" wrote in message
news:hgykc.25035$f_5.19750@lakeread01...
Since you have a manual, I assume you already know you have 2 shifting
coils
in the lower unit. Find the dark blue and dark green wires that come
out
of
the shifter. Follow them back and you should find quick disconnects
behind
the motor and just before they go into the lower unit. Disconnect them
and
with ignition on be sure you have 12V coming to them from the shifter
..
Blue
is reverse and green is fwd. Be sure the lower unit is grounded good.
If
voltage is good, check each coil for continuity. I can't remember for
sure,
but I think they should read around 6 ohms.

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


"Jim Rojas" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know how to repair the electric shift solenoid system on
a
1976
OMC outdrive? I have the Clymer manual, but I am very unclear how
this
is
done.

Thanks

Jim Rojas

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Jim Rojas wrote:

As soon as I figure out where the coils are located, I'll let you know.

There was a splice on the outside of the drive. Someone used an orange
extension cord to complete the connection into the transom. I took that
apart and applied voltage on each wire, using the chassis as common ground.
I got nothing so far.

I will read the book a little more. Maybe it will show me exactly where the
coils are located.

Thanks

Jim Rojas

The coils are concentric on the propshaft. You need to check the
resistance of the coils - at the leads - to ground before you go tearing
apart. Just applying 12v is not a good enough test. You need 8 ohms of
resistance from each coil, and a slight clockwise turning on the
vertical shaft will help engage/wind the spring onto the gear hub. You
may not hear anything inside that hunk of metal just applying voltage.

If the coils pass the electrical test, and still do not engage, the
clutch springs are likely broken.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

--
Bill
Chesapeake, Va


"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
Jim Rojas wrote:

As soon as I figure out where the coils are located, I'll let you know.

There was a splice on the outside of the drive. Someone used an orange
extension cord to complete the connection into the transom. I took that
apart and applied voltage on each wire, using the chassis as common
ground.
I got nothing so far.

I will read the book a little more. Maybe it will show me exactly where
the
coils are located.

Thanks

Jim Rojas

The coils are concentric on the propshaft. You need to check the
resistance of the coils - at the leads - to ground before you go tearing
apart. Just applying 12v is not a good enough test. You need 8 ohms of
resistance from each coil, and a slight clockwise turning on the
vertical shaft will help engage/wind the spring onto the gear hub. You
may not hear anything inside that hunk of metal just applying voltage.

If the coils pass the electrical test, and still do not engage, the
clutch springs are likely broken.

Rob

Or he could have a broken vertical shaft like happened to me.

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

I placed my meter across both leads. I am reading 11.4 ohms.
If I spin the shaft, the reading swings between 8 to 13 ohms.

Jim Rojas

"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
Jim Rojas wrote:

As soon as I figure out where the coils are located, I'll let you know.

There was a splice on the outside of the drive. Someone used an orange
extension cord to complete the connection into the transom. I took that
apart and applied voltage on each wire, using the chassis as common
ground.
I got nothing so far.

I will read the book a little more. Maybe it will show me exactly where
the
coils are located.

Thanks

Jim Rojas

The coils are concentric on the propshaft. You need to check the
resistance of the coils - at the leads - to ground before you go tearing
apart. Just applying 12v is not a good enough test. You need 8 ohms of
resistance from each coil, and a slight clockwise turning on the
vertical shaft will help engage/wind the spring onto the gear hub. You
may not hear anything inside that hunk of metal just applying voltage.

If the coils pass the electrical test, and still do not engage, the
clutch springs are likely broken.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Jim Rojas wrote:

I placed my meter across both leads. I am reading 11.4 ohms.
If I spin the shaft, the reading swings between 8 to 13 ohms.

Jim Rojas



Across both leads, divide by 2. Try each lead to ground, the total of
the two should equal your reading across both leads, which sounds like
they are within tolerance and the coils are both grounded OK... no open
circuit(good) and no short circuit(also good) and then you can check for
a 1.5 - 2 amp draw under load with a 12v source. If you do not have a
good multimeter for this part, a low current battery charger with a
half-way decent ammeter should allow you to get a good ball-park figure.

If the vertical shaft is intact (as per WRH post) you should be able to
get the springs to load up on the gears (1 at a time - forward &
reverse) with a clockwise rotation(as viewed from the top) while each
coil is energized.

If the springs are in good shape(they do wear) you will get maximum life
by using OMC Type C lower unit oil (used to contain whale oil - no
longer does). I have not sourced the clutch springs in years, so you
may have to do some web searching... they are certainly a weak point of
this type of drive.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

I tried each lead to ground...zero resistance on each one.

Jim Rojas

"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
Jim Rojas wrote:

I placed my meter across both leads. I am reading 11.4 ohms.
If I spin the shaft, the reading swings between 8 to 13 ohms.

Jim Rojas



Across both leads, divide by 2. Try each lead to ground, the total of
the two should equal your reading across both leads, which sounds like
they are within tolerance and the coils are both grounded OK... no open
circuit(good) and no short circuit(also good) and then you can check for
a 1.5 - 2 amp draw under load with a 12v source. If you do not have a
good multimeter for this part, a low current battery charger with a
half-way decent ammeter should allow you to get a good ball-park figure.

If the vertical shaft is intact (as per WRH post) you should be able to
get the springs to load up on the gears (1 at a time - forward &
reverse) with a clockwise rotation(as viewed from the top) while each
coil is energized.

If the springs are in good shape(they do wear) you will get maximum life
by using OMC Type C lower unit oil (used to contain whale oil - no
longer does). I have not sourced the clutch springs in years, so you
may have to do some web searching... they are certainly a weak point of
this type of drive.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Amen, about the springs being the weak point. I have a 1976 Slickcraft
SS245 with a 351 ford. Foward sping broke twice on me about 4 years
ago, 20 miles out in lake superior.
Still have the boat, and is working at this time. Have it up for sale,
but do need to take it out and make sure all is well. Want to make
sure the boot is still sound.
BTW how much work is it to replace the springs oneself.
Al

On Fri, 30 Apr 2004 23:01:57 -0400, trainfan1
wrote:

Jim Rojas wrote:

I placed my meter across both leads. I am reading 11.4 ohms.
If I spin the shaft, the reading swings between 8 to 13 ohms.

Jim Rojas



Across both leads, divide by 2. Try each lead to ground, the total of
the two should equal your reading across both leads, which sounds like
they are within tolerance and the coils are both grounded OK... no open
circuit(good) and no short circuit(also good) and then you can check for
a 1.5 - 2 amp draw under load with a 12v source. If you do not have a
good multimeter for this part, a low current battery charger with a
half-way decent ammeter should allow you to get a good ball-park figure.

If the vertical shaft is intact (as per WRH post) you should be able to
get the springs to load up on the gears (1 at a time - forward &
reverse) with a clockwise rotation(as viewed from the top) while each
coil is energized.

If the springs are in good shape(they do wear) you will get maximum life
by using OMC Type C lower unit oil (used to contain whale oil - no
longer does). I have not sourced the clutch springs in years, so you
may have to do some web searching... they are certainly a weak point of
this type of drive.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Jim Rojas wrote:

I tried each lead to ground...zero resistance on each one.

Jim Rojas


You will need to load test the coils then, with an ammeter. Something
doesn't make sense with the readings you have provided.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

I bit the bullet and purchased a fully functional stern drive for $312

Jim Rojas


"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
wrote:

Amen, about the springs being the weak point. I have a 1976 Slickcraft
SS245 with a 351 ford. Foward sping broke twice on me about 4 years
ago, 20 miles out in lake superior.
Still have the boat, and is working at this time. Have it up for sale,
but do need to take it out and make sure all is well. Want to make
sure the boot is still sound.
BTW how much work is it to replace the springs oneself.
Al


The 351 is a lot of torque for the Electramatic... I not surprised
you've had trouble.

The forward coil is the furthest in. If it's been apart a couple of
times, it may not be that bad to disassemble and put back - it is a
fairly simple arrangement, but now I would be concerned about the
condition of the electrical pigtail which must be fished through the
housings twice more - out & back in. They get brittle and crack easily
with age, and I'm not sure replacements are available anymore.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

Jim, Where did you get the new sterndrive?
Al

On Mon, 10 May 2004 18:04:48 GMT, "Jim Rojas"
wrote:

I bit the bullet and purchased a fully functional stern drive for $312

Jim Rojas


"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
wrote:

Amen, about the springs being the weak point. I have a 1976 Slickcraft
SS245 with a 351 ford. Foward sping broke twice on me about 4 years
ago, 20 miles out in lake superior.
Still have the boat, and is working at this time. Have it up for sale,
but do need to take it out and make sure all is well. Want to make
sure the boot is still sound.
BTW how much work is it to replace the springs oneself.
Al


The 351 is a lot of torque for the Electramatic... I not surprised
you've had trouble.

The forward coil is the furthest in. If it's been apart a couple of
times, it may not be that bad to disassemble and put back - it is a
fairly simple arrangement, but now I would be concerned about the
condition of the electrical pigtail which must be fished through the
housings twice more - out & back in. They get brittle and crack easily
with age, and I'm not sure replacements are available anymore.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

I bought it on ebay from a person who dismantles boats.

Jim Rojas

wrote in message
...
Jim, Where did you get the new sterndrive?
Al

On Mon, 10 May 2004 18:04:48 GMT, "Jim Rojas"
wrote:

I bit the bullet and purchased a fully functional stern drive for $312

Jim Rojas


"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
wrote:

Amen, about the springs being the weak point. I have a 1976
Slickcraft
SS245 with a 351 ford. Foward sping broke twice on me about 4 years
ago, 20 miles out in lake superior.
Still have the boat, and is working at this time. Have it up for
sale,
but do need to take it out and make sure all is well. Want to make
sure the boot is still sound.
BTW how much work is it to replace the springs oneself.
Al


The 351 is a lot of torque for the Electramatic... I not surprised
you've had trouble.

The forward coil is the furthest in. If it's been apart a couple of
times, it may not be that bad to disassemble and put back - it is a
fairly simple arrangement, but now I would be concerned about the
condition of the electrical pigtail which must be fished through the
housings twice more - out & back in. They get brittle and crack easily
with age, and I'm not sure replacements are available anymore.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

OMC OUTDRIVE FOUR CYL. EARLY 70'S HIGH PROFILE Item number:
2476828585


You are viewing a used fresh water outdrive that is in very good codetion.
It is the electric shift high profile unit. The unit turns and shifts very
smooth in forward and reverse the oil levels are good and the oil is clean
and free of water. I checked the water pump and it was in good condetion.
There is no corrosion to find on the unit anywhere. The paint job has some
scretches and the tilt gear was welded on by a welding shop. Have more OMC
parts for sale. If you have any questions about this item please send email.

Here is the ebay auction if you are interested...

Jim Rojas



wrote in message
...
Jim, Where did you get the new sterndrive?
Al

On Mon, 10 May 2004 18:04:48 GMT, "Jim Rojas"
wrote:

I bit the bullet and purchased a fully functional stern drive for $312

Jim Rojas


"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
wrote:

Amen, about the springs being the weak point. I have a 1976
Slickcraft
SS245 with a 351 ford. Foward sping broke twice on me about 4 years
ago, 20 miles out in lake superior.
Still have the boat, and is working at this time. Have it up for
sale,
but do need to take it out and make sure all is well. Want to make
sure the boot is still sound.
BTW how much work is it to replace the springs oneself.
Al


The 351 is a lot of torque for the Electramatic... I not surprised
you've had trouble.

The forward coil is the furthest in. If it's been apart a couple of
times, it may not be that bad to disassemble and put back - it is a
fairly simple arrangement, but now I would be concerned about the
condition of the electrical pigtail which must be fished through the
housings twice more - out & back in. They get brittle and crack easily
with age, and I'm not sure replacements are available anymore.

Rob

1976 OMC Outdrive
 

I finally got around to replacing the stern drive. The replacement wasn't an
exact fit, so I had to reuse the top half of my old stern drive with the new
lower unit. The prop seems to engage in forward and reverse, but it won't
spin when I apply throttle...Any ideas why? The Cylmer manual doesn't get
into stern drive troubleshooting...

Thanks

Jim Rojas



wrote in message
...
Jim, Where did you get the new sterndrive?
Al

On Mon, 10 May 2004 18:04:48 GMT, "Jim Rojas"
wrote:

I bit the bullet and purchased a fully functional stern drive for $312

Jim Rojas


"trainfan1" wrote in message
...
wrote:

Amen, about the springs being the weak point. I have a 1976
Slickcraft
SS245 with a 351 ford. Foward sping broke twice on me about 4 years
ago, 20 miles out in lake superior.
Still have the boat, and is working at this time. Have it up for
sale,
but do need to take it out and make sure all is well. Want to make
sure the boot is still sound.
BTW how much work is it to replace the springs oneself.
Al


The 351 is a lot of torque for the Electramatic... I not surprised
you've had trouble.

The forward coil is the furthest in. If it's been apart a couple of
times, it may not be that bad to disassemble and put back - it is a
fairly simple arrangement, but now I would be concerned about the
condition of the electrical pigtail which must be fished through the
housings twice more - out & back in. They get brittle and crack easily
with age, and I'm not sure replacements are available anymore.

Rob