I'm in the home stretch of renovating the structure and interior of my
runabout. The one component that I haven't touched is the motor itself.

I have a 1970 427 Crusader. What determines when an engine should be
rebuilt? What's involved in rebuilding an inboard? How much would it cost
to have it professionally rebuilt?

I found this link...
http://www.kanter.com/p30-fon.html#fo12

Does this "engine overhaul kit" contain everything for a rebuild?

Thanks

Is that a marine kit?
G

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
I'm in the home stretch of renovating the structure and interior of my
runabout. The one component that I haven't touched is the motor itself.

I have a 1970 427 Crusader. What determines when an engine should be
rebuilt? What's involved in rebuilding an inboard? How much would it
cost
to have it professionally rebuilt?

I found this link...
http://www.kanter.com/p30-fon.html#fo12

Does this "engine overhaul kit" contain everything for a rebuild?

Thanks

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...


I have a 1970 427 Crusader. What determines when an engine should be
rebuilt?

Signs that an engine needs rebuilding:

Low oil pressure
Rod knocks
excessive valve noise
low compression
excessive smoke
excessive oil consumption
oil leaks



What's involved in rebuilding an inboard?

Get the engine out of the boat. Then it is just any engine.

You will have additional issues about the exhaust manifolds. If the engine
needs rebuilding there is a good chance that the manifolds are about to rust
out as well.

The starter, alternator, distributer and all parts of the fuel system should
be "marine". Don't substitute automotive equivalants.


How much would it cost
to have it professionally rebuilt?

Sorry, can't answer that.


I found this link...
http://www.kanter.com/p30-fon.html#fo12

Does this "engine overhaul kit" contain everything for a rebuild?

Well, I don't see "freeze plugs" on the list, and I would certainly
recommend replacing them on a marine engine, especially one that was raw
water cooled. There are couple that are a real bitch to get to once the
engine is all assembled and in the boat, and if they rust out in a year or
two you will be really sad that you didn't replace them when it was easy.

There will be those who argue that the cylinder head gasket should be
"marine" rated, which supposedly makes it more resistant to the continuous
flow of raw water. I know lots of people who have used standard automotive
gaskets without any problem so this is your call.

I would not use a camshaft that was advertised as "high performance" in a
boat. You want low end torque, not top end. I certainly wouldn't trade a
steady idle for a little more RPMs.

Note that you can't order this kit until you have disassembled your motor
and completed any boring or grinding that needs to be done. If you need to
bore out the cylinders you will need to know how far it has been bored out
so you can specify the correct sized pistons. Same with the crankshaft and
camshaft, if they need to be ground to get the bearing surfaces round again
then you will need oversize bearings that match.

If I was spending that much time and effort on the engine I would certainly
replace the valves and guides ("deluxe kit").

The disassembly and reassembly of the motor is easy. You will need to find
a machine shop that can check/grind the crankshaft, replace the valve guides
and grind the valve seats, and clean up and possibly bore out the crankcase.
It sure helps a lot if you have an engine stand to hold the engine while you
work on it. You will need some sort of crane of A frame over the boat to
get the engine out and back in.

You might want to consider rebuilding the carburetor while you are at it.

Rod

Don't believe so. I take it there's a difference?

"Gordon" wrote in message
...
Is that a marine kit?
G

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
I'm in the home stretch of renovating the structure and interior of my
runabout. The one component that I haven't touched is the motor itself.

I have a 1970 427 Crusader. What determines when an engine should be
rebuilt? What's involved in rebuilding an inboard? How much would it
cost
to have it professionally rebuilt?

I found this link...
http://www.kanter.com/p30-fon.html#fo12

Does this "engine overhaul kit" contain everything for a rebuild?

Thanks

The main difference is that marine kits will have brass freeze plugs. A
small cost either way.

A good rebuild will also include having a valve job on the heads, the valve
guides checked, the crank turned 10 over and the cylinders bored. You can
do the disassembly and reassembly yourself if you are handy. It would be
good if you have someone that has done it before and can lend a hand.
Estimates for the machine work are easy to get, most machine shops will
quote you prices over the phone. You won't save a whole lot over buying a
rebuilt though.

If there is nothing wrong with your engine I would wait until it needs it
myself. Of course that does mean you will be working on it again soon. You
never mentioned how many hours are on the engine?

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
Don't believe so. I take it there's a difference?

"Gordon" wrote in message
...
Is that a marine kit?
G

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
I'm in the home stretch of renovating the structure and interior of my
runabout. The one component that I haven't touched is the motor
itself.

I have a 1970 427 Crusader. What determines when an engine should be
rebuilt? What's involved in rebuilding an inboard? How much would
it
cost
to have it professionally rebuilt?

I found this link...
http://www.kanter.com/p30-fon.html#fo12

Does this "engine overhaul kit" contain everything for a rebuild?

Thanks

Unfortunately I have no idea how many hours are on the engine. It's
original to the boat (1970), and the boat has no hour meter.

Funny you mention that about the freeze plugs - I just got back from the
auto store where I picked up a couple brass freeze plugs. I've had two pop
out over the last two winters. We're not quite sure why - this engine was
winterized using the same methods as a half-dozen other inboards.


"Lawrence James" wrote in message
ink.net...
The main difference is that marine kits will have brass freeze plugs. A
small cost either way.

A good rebuild will also include having a valve job on the heads, the
valve
guides checked, the crank turned 10 over and the cylinders bored. You can
do the disassembly and reassembly yourself if you are handy. It would be
good if you have someone that has done it before and can lend a hand.
Estimates for the machine work are easy to get, most machine shops will
quote you prices over the phone. You won't save a whole lot over buying a
rebuilt though.

If there is nothing wrong with your engine I would wait until it needs it
myself. Of course that does mean you will be working on it again soon.
You
never mentioned how many hours are on the engine?

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
Don't believe so. I take it there's a difference?

"Gordon" wrote in message
...
Is that a marine kit?
G

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
I'm in the home stretch of renovating the structure and interior of
my
runabout. The one component that I haven't touched is the motor
itself.

I have a 1970 427 Crusader. What determines when an engine should
be
rebuilt? What's involved in rebuilding an inboard? How much would
it
cost
to have it professionally rebuilt?

I found this link...
http://www.kanter.com/p30-fon.html#fo12

Does this "engine overhaul kit" contain everything for a rebuild?

Thanks

Perhaps a compression test would be a good place to start. Does it use oil?
Part of the decision is personal, are you looking to make this boat totally
low maintenance for few years? Do you take it great distances off shore and
reliability is an issue? Is the engine a whole lot easier to remove now
than it will be later? How does cost factor in for you?

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
Unfortunately I have no idea how many hours are on the engine. It's
original to the boat (1970), and the boat has no hour meter.

Funny you mention that about the freeze plugs - I just got back from the
auto store where I picked up a couple brass freeze plugs. I've had two
pop
out over the last two winters. We're not quite sure why - this engine was
winterized using the same methods as a half-dozen other inboards.


"Lawrence James" wrote in message
ink.net...
The main difference is that marine kits will have brass freeze plugs. A
small cost either way.

A good rebuild will also include having a valve job on the heads, the
valve
guides checked, the crank turned 10 over and the cylinders bored. You
can
do the disassembly and reassembly yourself if you are handy. It would
be
good if you have someone that has done it before and can lend a hand.
Estimates for the machine work are easy to get, most machine shops will
quote you prices over the phone. You won't save a whole lot over buying
a
rebuilt though.

If there is nothing wrong with your engine I would wait until it needs
it
myself. Of course that does mean you will be working on it again soon.
You
never mentioned how many hours are on the engine?

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
Don't believe so. I take it there's a difference?

"Gordon" wrote in message
...
Is that a marine kit?
G

"Douglas St. Clair" wrote in message
...
I'm in the home stretch of renovating the structure and interior
of
my
runabout. The one component that I haven't touched is the motor
itself.

I have a 1970 427 Crusader. What determines when an engine should
be
rebuilt? What's involved in rebuilding an inboard? How much
would
it
cost
to have it professionally rebuilt?

I found this link...
http://www.kanter.com/p30-fon.html#fo12

Does this "engine overhaul kit" contain everything for a rebuild?

Thanks

Perhaps a compression test would be a good place to start. Does it use
oil?
Part of the decision is personal, are you looking to make this boat
totally
low maintenance for few years? Do you take it great distances off shore
and
reliability is an issue? Is the engine a whole lot easier to remove now
than it will be later? How does cost factor in for you?


I think that answers my question. The engine will be just as accessible
down the road as it is currently. The boat is kept in inland lakes, and
probably stays within a couple miles of our dock. How does cost factor in?
I just picked up my first designated "towing vehicle" last night... I'd be
fine without spending more on the boat at the time being