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fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
can anyone tell me what the correct mixture is for a 1973 50 hp evinrude
is? please reply to post or e-mail at thanks, Jeff |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
50:1
That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good oil and high test gas. -- Bill Chesapeake, Va "Jeff Jones" wrote in message 4.205... can anyone tell me what the correct mixture is for a 1973 50 hp evinrude is? please reply to post or e-mail at thanks, Jeff |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
WRH wrote:
50:1 That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good oil and high test gas. Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting & idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973 Evinrudes is 80. Rob |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
Jeff Jones wrote:
can anyone tell me what the correct mixture is for a 1973 50 hp evinrude is? please reply to post or e-mail at thanks, Jeff Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting & idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973 Evinrudes is 80. The required oil is mixed 1 part in 50 to the gas (1 pint to a 6.25 gallon outboard tank - yes there is a little extra room intentionally in OMC tanks) and the engine requires TCW-2 or better oil. The oil cost is such a small percentage of the operating costs with a boat, so don't be unnecessarily cheap... get the good stuff (name brand, eg., TCW-3) by the gallon for economy (will serve 8 full tanks) A little extra oil is OK (my portable cans are 5.7 gallons, so I put a pint in to mix up boat gas) but don't run it any leaner. Rob |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
Yes, minimum octane for that engine is 80, but it also is suppose to be
leaded. I've found the old engines I've had ran much better on high test. -- Bill Chesapeake, Va "trainfan1" wrote in message ... WRH wrote: 50:1 That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good oil and high test gas. Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting & idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973 Evinrudes is 80. Rob |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"trainfan1" wrote in message ... WRH wrote: 50:1 That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good oil and high test gas. Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting & idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973 Evinrudes is 80. Rob Plus, unlike a 4 stroke, a two stroke will begin to lose power as the octane is increased above the detonation point. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"Joe" wrote in message ...
"trainfan1" wrote in message ... WRH wrote: 50:1 That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good oil and high test gas. Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting & idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973 Evinrudes is 80. Rob Plus, unlike a 4 stroke, a two stroke will begin to lose power as the octane is increased above the detonation point. At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
According to the experts, premium gas run in engines designed for regular
gas does not improve performance and will actually hurt performance. While there are some people who swear the engine runs better using premium, the experts say they must have smoked too much pot and have fried their brain cells. Why use premium gas when regular will do? By James R. Healey, USA TODAY Marti Mayne once fueled her low-octane Subaru with high-octane gas. Not now. Premium-gas prices "went sky high, and now I just use low grade" to motor around Yarmouth, Maine, where she runs a marketing business. Cost differences between regular and premium is as plain as, well, the sign at the station, like this one in Chicago. By Scott Olson, Getty Images When prices dropped earlier this year, she stuck with cheaper fuel because "I don't think that my car runs any differently on high, medium or lower grade." She's right. Engines designed for regular fuel don't improve on premium and sometimes run worse. And today's engines designed for premium run fine on regular, too, their makers say, though power declines slightly. (Background: About Octane ratings) But premium lovers are passionate. "I would simply curtail driving rather than switch grades," says Bill Teater of Mount Vernon, Ohio, who puts high-test in both his Cadillacs, though only one recommends it. He's sure both the DeVille and the Escalade run rough and lack pep on regular. Prejudice and preference aside, engineers, scientists and the federal government say there's little need for premium. When fuel's cheap, motorists are willing to pay 20 cents or so more for premium. But as gas prices sneak back up, the mental wrangle begins anew over whether it's OK to burn cheaper, regular-grade gas. AS PRICES RISE, CONSUMERS SHUN PREMIUM GAS Average price of a gallon of premium gasoline: 1993 $1.30 1999 $1.36 2002 $1.58 20031 $1.80 Premium gas share of all gas sold: 1993 19.9% 1999 16.8% 2002 13.5% 2003 12.1% Sources: Energy Information Administration, American Petroleum Institute The answer almost always is yes. "I personally use regular even though my owner's manual says you'll get better performance with premium," says Lewis Gibbs, consulting engineer and 45-year veteran at Chevron oil company. He's chairman of Technical Committee 7 on Fuels, part of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Fuels & Lubricants Council. Gibbs knows gas. "My wife runs midgrade (89 octane) in her car, and it's a turbocharged engine" meant for 91-octane premium, he says. Premium - gasoline having an octane rating 91 or higher - is just 12.1% of sales this year, down from 13.5% in 2002, when it was 22 cents a gallon cheaper, and well below the modern high of 20.3% in 1994, when it was 49 cents cheaper, according to industry and government data. Despite the allure of premium, once they abandon it, most motorists don't come back, the data suggest. For every dime increase in the price, sales of premium gas drop 1%, Bob Johnson, general manager of gasoline and environmental services for the 7-Eleven chain, figures, based on data back to 1998. The main advantage of premium-grade gas is that it allows automakers to advertise a few more horsepower by designing and tuning engines to take advantage of premium's anti-knock properties. But auto engineers generally agree that if you use regular in a premium engine, the power loss is so slight, most drivers can't tell. "I go back and forth, and I'm hard-pressed to notice" whether there's regular or premium in the tank, says Jeff Jetter, principal chemist at Honda Research and Development Americas. He drives an Acura designed for premium. Import brands, especially, use premium fuel to distinguish their upmarket models. Most Toyotas, for instance, are designed to run on regular or midgrade, while the automaker's Lexus luxury brand prefers premium. Same with Honda and its Acura luxury line. "Generally, the more expensive the vehicle, the higher the expectation for performance and the more the customer is willing to pay for fuel," says Pete Haidos, head of product planning for Nissan in the USA. Actually, the price debate is nearly worthless. At 20 cents more for premium, pumping 20 gallons of it instead of regular would cost $4 more. Annually, that's a difference of $171 for a vehicle that averages 14 miles per gallon - as some big sport-utility vehicles do - and is driven 12,000 miles a year. Gasoline retailers and refiners like high-test because it's more profitable than regular-grade gas is. The retailer paid about 8 cents more for the premium you pay 20 cents more for - though that margin can swing wildly. Refiners make a few cents a gallon more on premium than on regular when they sell to wholesale distributors. As long as it's clean Profit is meaningless to the modern engine, which, regardless of what's specified in the owner's manual, hardly cares what you use - as long as it's clean. Today's engines use highly evolved versions of a device called a knock sensor to adjust settings automatically for low-octane gas. And more engine control computers have adequate memory to allow separate sets of instructions for various octanes. The engine control computers keep pushing to maximize performance on whatever grade of fuel is used. Extreme pressure inside the cylinders causes knock, which is the sound of the pistons literally rattling inside the cylinders. Too much too long can damage the engine. A little now and then won't. The only modern engines that should really need premium are those with superchargers, which force-feed fuel into the cylinders. "You're driving along and just tramp the gas and the knock sensor cannot sense the knock fast enough in some cases," because the supercharger boosts pressure so fast, says Bob Furey, chemist and fuels specialist at General Motors. Burning regular when the owner's manual specifies premium won't void the warranty, nor damage the engine, even the most finicky automakers say. "You're giving up perhaps just a little bit of performance that a customer wouldn't really even notice, it's so slight," says Furey. Automakers say they don't test premium engines on regular to check the difference, but some auto engineers estimate that power declines roughly 5%. "We can't guarantee the vehicle will perform as specified if other than premium fuel is used," says Mercedes-Benz spokeswoman Michelle Murad. All U.S. Mercedes engines specify premium. All Porsche engines are designed for premium, too, but it's not available everywhere. "Our cars must be able to drive all over the world, and so we are able to run on regular," says Jakob Neusser, director of powertrain development at Porsche's research and development center in Weissach, Germany. "You don't have to feel that a mechanical problem or anything else will happen" using regular gas, even in the highest-performance, regular-production Porsches. Premium, in fact, sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. As a result, some engines won't start as quickly or run as smoothly on premium, notes Gibbs, the SAE fuel expert. High-test does have a potential fuel economy benefit. It is slightly denser than lower-octane gas, meaning there's a little more energy in a gallon. But the small difference is hard to measure in real-world use, and that same density can contribute to undesirable buildup of waste products inside the engine. No data show that engines designed strictly for regular run better or longer on premium. The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "(I)n most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner." There is "no way of taking advantage of premium in a regular-grade car," says Furey. "There is no gain. You're wasting money," insists Jim Blenkarn, in charge of powertrains at Nissan in the USA. "No customer should ever be deluded into thinking there's any value in buying a higher grade of octane than we specify," says Toyota's Paul Williamsen, technical expert and trainer. But premium retains a mystique. Even Mayne, the sensible Subaru owner who has switched to regular, says she'll buy premium when her neighborhood station has a special price. "It's my perception that I might get better gas mileage or that it might be better for my engine," she says. "I would stop driving rather than use a lower grade of gasoline," says Andrew Martschenko of Boston, who drives a 2003 Nissan Maxima. Nissan says premium is "recommended" for that engine - automaker code for regular is OK, but you'll only get the advertised power on premium. If the price difference between regular and premium grew to $1, Martschenko says, "Then I might consider trading down" to regular. Guilt plays a part Some people feel almost guilty, as if they are abusing their cars, when they don't burn premium, says gasoline retailer Jay Ricker, president of Ricker Oil of Anderson, Ind., which operates 28 stations. "They go all the way down to 87 (octane), but maybe every fourth tank they put in the good stuff." Sam Turner has seen the appeal, too. He's president of Favorite Markets of Dalton, Ga., which operates 139 outlets in three states. He recalls visiting one of his stations during a price war with a nearby station, which had cut the price of premium to just 4 cents more than regular, instead of the usual 20-cent difference. "A customer was waiting and asked me if I was going to match the guy across the street. I said, 'Yeah,' and he said, 'Good. For 4 cents, I'm gonna buy super.' " Basskisser wrote At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
50:1 is cool, itsa liquid cooled motor. More oil burns plugs. Plugs are
cheap. Top end jobs are not. OMC motors come with cranks mated to a block. Blow it up and it's an anchor. Today's synthetic lubes can be run as lean as 100:1. I prefer regular oil at 50:1. I also add one mothball to 20 gallons of 90 octane. Don't do it to a catalytic convertor on your chevy...but they used to make 110 plus octane in 1973. You'll feel the difference. Most OMC's (johnson evinrude ford;industrial) will provide a port in the water jacket allowing for an external water temp guage...stay below 185 degrees F. Maybe go 1 step colder on plugs. If you're nervous go 32:1 on oil, but carry a spare set of plugs. peace out G "John Smith" wrote in message news:y4bfc.142795$JO3.84436@attbi_s04... According to the experts, premium gas run in engines designed for regular gas does not improve performance and will actually hurt performance. While there are some people who swear the engine runs better using premium, the experts say they must have smoked too much pot and have fried their brain cells. Why use premium gas when regular will do? By James R. Healey, USA TODAY Marti Mayne once fueled her low-octane Subaru with high-octane gas. Not now. Premium-gas prices "went sky high, and now I just use low grade" to motor around Yarmouth, Maine, where she runs a marketing business. Cost differences between regular and premium is as plain as, well, the sign at the station, like this one in Chicago. By Scott Olson, Getty Images When prices dropped earlier this year, she stuck with cheaper fuel because "I don't think that my car runs any differently on high, medium or lower grade." She's right. Engines designed for regular fuel don't improve on premium and sometimes run worse. And today's engines designed for premium run fine on regular, too, their makers say, though power declines slightly. (Background: About Octane ratings) But premium lovers are passionate. "I would simply curtail driving rather than switch grades," says Bill Teater of Mount Vernon, Ohio, who puts high-test in both his Cadillacs, though only one recommends it. He's sure both the DeVille and the Escalade run rough and lack pep on regular. Prejudice and preference aside, engineers, scientists and the federal government say there's little need for premium. When fuel's cheap, motorists are willing to pay 20 cents or so more for premium. But as gas prices sneak back up, the mental wrangle begins anew over whether it's OK to burn cheaper, regular-grade gas. AS PRICES RISE, CONSUMERS SHUN PREMIUM GAS Average price of a gallon of premium gasoline: 1993 $1.30 1999 $1.36 2002 $1.58 20031 $1.80 Premium gas share of all gas sold: 1993 19.9% 1999 16.8% 2002 13.5% 2003 12.1% Sources: Energy Information Administration, American Petroleum Institute The answer almost always is yes. "I personally use regular even though my owner's manual says you'll get better performance with premium," says Lewis Gibbs, consulting engineer and 45-year veteran at Chevron oil company. He's chairman of Technical Committee 7 on Fuels, part of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Fuels & Lubricants Council. Gibbs knows gas. "My wife runs midgrade (89 octane) in her car, and it's a turbocharged engine" meant for 91-octane premium, he says. Premium - gasoline having an octane rating 91 or higher - is just 12.1% of sales this year, down from 13.5% in 2002, when it was 22 cents a gallon cheaper, and well below the modern high of 20.3% in 1994, when it was 49 cents cheaper, according to industry and government data. Despite the allure of premium, once they abandon it, most motorists don't come back, the data suggest. For every dime increase in the price, sales of premium gas drop 1%, Bob Johnson, general manager of gasoline and environmental services for the 7-Eleven chain, figures, based on data back to 1998. The main advantage of premium-grade gas is that it allows automakers to advertise a few more horsepower by designing and tuning engines to take advantage of premium's anti-knock properties. But auto engineers generally agree that if you use regular in a premium engine, the power loss is so slight, most drivers can't tell. "I go back and forth, and I'm hard-pressed to notice" whether there's regular or premium in the tank, says Jeff Jetter, principal chemist at Honda Research and Development Americas. He drives an Acura designed for premium. Import brands, especially, use premium fuel to distinguish their upmarket models. Most Toyotas, for instance, are designed to run on regular or midgrade, while the automaker's Lexus luxury brand prefers premium. Same with Honda and its Acura luxury line. "Generally, the more expensive the vehicle, the higher the expectation for performance and the more the customer is willing to pay for fuel," says Pete Haidos, head of product planning for Nissan in the USA. Actually, the price debate is nearly worthless. At 20 cents more for premium, pumping 20 gallons of it instead of regular would cost $4 more. Annually, that's a difference of $171 for a vehicle that averages 14 miles per gallon - as some big sport-utility vehicles do - and is driven 12,000 miles a year. Gasoline retailers and refiners like high-test because it's more profitable than regular-grade gas is. The retailer paid about 8 cents more for the premium you pay 20 cents more for - though that margin can swing wildly. Refiners make a few cents a gallon more on premium than on regular when they sell to wholesale distributors. As long as it's clean Profit is meaningless to the modern engine, which, regardless of what's specified in the owner's manual, hardly cares what you use - as long as it's clean. Today's engines use highly evolved versions of a device called a knock sensor to adjust settings automatically for low-octane gas. And more engine control computers have adequate memory to allow separate sets of instructions for various octanes. The engine control computers keep pushing to maximize performance on whatever grade of fuel is used. Extreme pressure inside the cylinders causes knock, which is the sound of the pistons literally rattling inside the cylinders. Too much too long can damage the engine. A little now and then won't. The only modern engines that should really need premium are those with superchargers, which force-feed fuel into the cylinders. "You're driving along and just tramp the gas and the knock sensor cannot sense the knock fast enough in some cases," because the supercharger boosts pressure so fast, says Bob Furey, chemist and fuels specialist at General Motors. Burning regular when the owner's manual specifies premium won't void the warranty, nor damage the engine, even the most finicky automakers say. "You're giving up perhaps just a little bit of performance that a customer wouldn't really even notice, it's so slight," says Furey. Automakers say they don't test premium engines on regular to check the difference, but some auto engineers estimate that power declines roughly 5%. "We can't guarantee the vehicle will perform as specified if other than premium fuel is used," says Mercedes-Benz spokeswoman Michelle Murad. All U.S. Mercedes engines specify premium. All Porsche engines are designed for premium, too, but it's not available everywhere. "Our cars must be able to drive all over the world, and so we are able to run on regular," says Jakob Neusser, director of powertrain development at Porsche's research and development center in Weissach, Germany. "You don't have to feel that a mechanical problem or anything else will happen" using regular gas, even in the highest-performance, regular-production Porsches. Premium, in fact, sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. As a result, some engines won't start as quickly or run as smoothly on premium, notes Gibbs, the SAE fuel expert. High-test does have a potential fuel economy benefit. It is slightly denser than lower-octane gas, meaning there's a little more energy in a gallon. But the small difference is hard to measure in real-world use, and that same density can contribute to undesirable buildup of waste products inside the engine. No data show that engines designed strictly for regular run better or longer on premium. The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "(I)n most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner." There is "no way of taking advantage of premium in a regular-grade car," says Furey. "There is no gain. You're wasting money," insists Jim Blenkarn, in charge of powertrains at Nissan in the USA. "No customer should ever be deluded into thinking there's any value in buying a higher grade of octane than we specify," says Toyota's Paul Williamsen, technical expert and trainer. But premium retains a mystique. Even Mayne, the sensible Subaru owner who has switched to regular, says she'll buy premium when her neighborhood station has a special price. "It's my perception that I might get better gas mileage or that it might be better for my engine," she says. "I would stop driving rather than use a lower grade of gasoline," says Andrew Martschenko of Boston, who drives a 2003 Nissan Maxima. Nissan says premium is "recommended" for that engine - automaker code for regular is OK, but you'll only get the advertised power on premium. If the price difference between regular and premium grew to $1, Martschenko says, "Then I might consider trading down" to regular. Guilt plays a part Some people feel almost guilty, as if they are abusing their cars, when they don't burn premium, says gasoline retailer Jay Ricker, president of Ricker Oil of Anderson, Ind., which operates 28 stations. "They go all the way down to 87 (octane), but maybe every fourth tank they put in the good stuff." Sam Turner has seen the appeal, too. He's president of Favorite Markets of Dalton, Ga., which operates 139 outlets in three states. He recalls visiting one of his stations during a price war with a nearby station, which had cut the price of premium to just 4 cents more than regular, instead of the usual 20-cent difference. "A customer was waiting and asked me if I was going to match the guy across the street. I said, 'Yeah,' and he said, 'Good. For 4 cents, I'm gonna buy super.' " Basskisser wrote At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"basskisser" wrote in message om... "Joe" wrote in message ... "trainfan1" wrote in message ... WRH wrote: 50:1 That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good oil and high test gas. Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting & idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973 Evinrudes is 80. Rob Plus, unlike a 4 stroke, a two stroke will begin to lose power as the octane is increased above the detonation point. At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. If true, (coming for you unlikely) the higher octane is most likely helping to overcome another problem you have with your motor. Boosting octane above the minimum required in a stock outboard *is* a waste of money *and* will hurt performance. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
Laurie, They might have used gasoline with an octane rating of 110 octane,
but it was a different method of rating octane than what is used today. It is comparing apples and oranges to compare today's octane rating to the ones used in the past. The ratings at the pumps today use the average between the two methods (motor protocol and research protocol). As far as adding mothballs to gasoline, I recommend you read the attached cut from the Landfield Group, it can be extremely dangerous and expensive to add mothballs to your gas. Can mothballs increase octane? The legend of mothballs as an octane enhancer arose well before WWII when naphthalene was used as the active ingredient. Today, the majority of mothballs use para-dichlorobenzene in place of naphthalene, so choose carefully if you wish to experiment :-). There have been some concerns about the toxicity of para-dichlorobenzene, and naphthalene mothballs have again become popular. In the 1920s, typical gasoline octane ratings were 40-60 [11], and during the 1930s and 40s, the ratings increased by approximately 20 units as alkyl leads and improved refining processes became widespread [12]. Naphthalene has a blending motor octane number of 90 [52], so the addition of a significant amount of mothballs could increase the octane, and they were soluble in gasoline. The amount usually required to appreciably increase the octane also had some adverse effects. The most obvious was due to the high melting point ( 80C ), when the fuel evaporated the naphthalene would precipitate out, blocking jets and filters. With modern gasolines, naphthalene is more likely to reduce the octane rating, and the amount required for low octane fuels will also create operational and emissions problems. If you are interested in reading more about gas and octane visit: http://www.r-t-o-l.com/laboratory/learning/faq1.htm#q20 "Laurie Sokol" wrote in message news:erlfc.40886$rg5.70428@attbi_s52... 50:1 is cool, itsa liquid cooled motor. More oil burns plugs. Plugs are cheap. Top end jobs are not. OMC motors come with cranks mated to a block. Blow it up and it's an anchor. Today's synthetic lubes can be run as lean as 100:1. I prefer regular oil at 50:1. I also add one mothball to 20 gallons of 90 octane. Don't do it to a catalytic convertor on your chevy...but they used to make 110 plus octane in 1973. You'll feel the difference. Most OMC's (johnson evinrude ford;industrial) will provide a port in the water jacket allowing for an external water temp guage...stay below 185 degrees F. Maybe go 1 step colder on plugs. If you're nervous go 32:1 on oil, but carry a spare set of plugs. peace out G "John Smith" wrote in message news:y4bfc.142795$JO3.84436@attbi_s04... According to the experts, premium gas run in engines designed for regular gas does not improve performance and will actually hurt performance. While there are some people who swear the engine runs better using premium, the experts say they must have smoked too much pot and have fried their brain cells. Why use premium gas when regular will do? By James R. Healey, USA TODAY Marti Mayne once fueled her low-octane Subaru with high-octane gas. Not now. Premium-gas prices "went sky high, and now I just use low grade" to motor around Yarmouth, Maine, where she runs a marketing business. Cost differences between regular and premium is as plain as, well, the sign at the station, like this one in Chicago. By Scott Olson, Getty Images When prices dropped earlier this year, she stuck with cheaper fuel because "I don't think that my car runs any differently on high, medium or lower grade." She's right. Engines designed for regular fuel don't improve on premium and sometimes run worse. And today's engines designed for premium run fine on regular, too, their makers say, though power declines slightly. (Background: About Octane ratings) But premium lovers are passionate. "I would simply curtail driving rather than switch grades," says Bill Teater of Mount Vernon, Ohio, who puts high-test in both his Cadillacs, though only one recommends it. He's sure both the DeVille and the Escalade run rough and lack pep on regular. Prejudice and preference aside, engineers, scientists and the federal government say there's little need for premium. When fuel's cheap, motorists are willing to pay 20 cents or so more for premium. But as gas prices sneak back up, the mental wrangle begins anew over whether it's OK to burn cheaper, regular-grade gas. AS PRICES RISE, CONSUMERS SHUN PREMIUM GAS Average price of a gallon of premium gasoline: 1993 $1.30 1999 $1.36 2002 $1.58 20031 $1.80 Premium gas share of all gas sold: 1993 19.9% 1999 16.8% 2002 13.5% 2003 12.1% Sources: Energy Information Administration, American Petroleum Institute The answer almost always is yes. "I personally use regular even though my owner's manual says you'll get better performance with premium," says Lewis Gibbs, consulting engineer and 45-year veteran at Chevron oil company. He's chairman of Technical Committee 7 on Fuels, part of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Fuels & Lubricants Council. Gibbs knows gas. "My wife runs midgrade (89 octane) in her car, and it's a turbocharged engine" meant for 91-octane premium, he says. Premium - gasoline having an octane rating 91 or higher - is just 12.1% of sales this year, down from 13.5% in 2002, when it was 22 cents a gallon cheaper, and well below the modern high of 20.3% in 1994, when it was 49 cents cheaper, according to industry and government data. Despite the allure of premium, once they abandon it, most motorists don't come back, the data suggest. For every dime increase in the price, sales of premium gas drop 1%, Bob Johnson, general manager of gasoline and environmental services for the 7-Eleven chain, figures, based on data back to 1998. The main advantage of premium-grade gas is that it allows automakers to advertise a few more horsepower by designing and tuning engines to take advantage of premium's anti-knock properties. But auto engineers generally agree that if you use regular in a premium engine, the power loss is so slight, most drivers can't tell. "I go back and forth, and I'm hard-pressed to notice" whether there's regular or premium in the tank, says Jeff Jetter, principal chemist at Honda Research and Development Americas. He drives an Acura designed for premium. Import brands, especially, use premium fuel to distinguish their upmarket models. Most Toyotas, for instance, are designed to run on regular or midgrade, while the automaker's Lexus luxury brand prefers premium. Same with Honda and its Acura luxury line. "Generally, the more expensive the vehicle, the higher the expectation for performance and the more the customer is willing to pay for fuel," says Pete Haidos, head of product planning for Nissan in the USA. Actually, the price debate is nearly worthless. At 20 cents more for premium, pumping 20 gallons of it instead of regular would cost $4 more. Annually, that's a difference of $171 for a vehicle that averages 14 miles per gallon - as some big sport-utility vehicles do - and is driven 12,000 miles a year. Gasoline retailers and refiners like high-test because it's more profitable than regular-grade gas is. The retailer paid about 8 cents more for the premium you pay 20 cents more for - though that margin can swing wildly. Refiners make a few cents a gallon more on premium than on regular when they sell to wholesale distributors. As long as it's clean Profit is meaningless to the modern engine, which, regardless of what's specified in the owner's manual, hardly cares what you use - as long as it's clean. Today's engines use highly evolved versions of a device called a knock sensor to adjust settings automatically for low-octane gas. And more engine control computers have adequate memory to allow separate sets of instructions for various octanes. The engine control computers keep pushing to maximize performance on whatever grade of fuel is used. Extreme pressure inside the cylinders causes knock, which is the sound of the pistons literally rattling inside the cylinders. Too much too long can damage the engine. A little now and then won't. The only modern engines that should really need premium are those with superchargers, which force-feed fuel into the cylinders. "You're driving along and just tramp the gas and the knock sensor cannot sense the knock fast enough in some cases," because the supercharger boosts pressure so fast, says Bob Furey, chemist and fuels specialist at General Motors. Burning regular when the owner's manual specifies premium won't void the warranty, nor damage the engine, even the most finicky automakers say. "You're giving up perhaps just a little bit of performance that a customer wouldn't really even notice, it's so slight," says Furey. Automakers say they don't test premium engines on regular to check the difference, but some auto engineers estimate that power declines roughly 5%. "We can't guarantee the vehicle will perform as specified if other than premium fuel is used," says Mercedes-Benz spokeswoman Michelle Murad. All U.S. Mercedes engines specify premium. All Porsche engines are designed for premium, too, but it's not available everywhere. "Our cars must be able to drive all over the world, and so we are able to run on regular," says Jakob Neusser, director of powertrain development at Porsche's research and development center in Weissach, Germany. "You don't have to feel that a mechanical problem or anything else will happen" using regular gas, even in the highest-performance, regular-production Porsches. Premium, in fact, sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. As a result, some engines won't start as quickly or run as smoothly on premium, notes Gibbs, the SAE fuel expert. High-test does have a potential fuel economy benefit. It is slightly denser than lower-octane gas, meaning there's a little more energy in a gallon. But the small difference is hard to measure in real-world use, and that same density can contribute to undesirable buildup of waste products inside the engine. No data show that engines designed strictly for regular run better or longer on premium. The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "(I)n most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner." There is "no way of taking advantage of premium in a regular-grade car," says Furey. "There is no gain. You're wasting money," insists Jim Blenkarn, in charge of powertrains at Nissan in the USA. "No customer should ever be deluded into thinking there's any value in buying a higher grade of octane than we specify," says Toyota's Paul Williamsen, technical expert and trainer. But premium retains a mystique. Even Mayne, the sensible Subaru owner who has switched to regular, says she'll buy premium when her neighborhood station has a special price. "It's my perception that I might get better gas mileage or that it might be better for my engine," she says. "I would stop driving rather than use a lower grade of gasoline," says Andrew Martschenko of Boston, who drives a 2003 Nissan Maxima. Nissan says premium is "recommended" for that engine - automaker code for regular is OK, but you'll only get the advertised power on premium. If the price difference between regular and premium grew to $1, Martschenko says, "Then I might consider trading down" to regular. Guilt plays a part Some people feel almost guilty, as if they are abusing their cars, when they don't burn premium, says gasoline retailer Jay Ricker, president of Ricker Oil of Anderson, Ind., which operates 28 stations. "They go all the way down to 87 (octane), but maybe every fourth tank they put in the good stuff." Sam Turner has seen the appeal, too. He's president of Favorite Markets of Dalton, Ga., which operates 139 outlets in three states. He recalls visiting one of his stations during a price war with a nearby station, which had cut the price of premium to just 4 cents more than regular, instead of the usual 20-cent difference. "A customer was waiting and asked me if I was going to match the guy across the street. I said, 'Yeah,' and he said, 'Good. For 4 cents, I'm gonna buy super.' " Basskisser wrote At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"Joe" wrote in message .. .
"basskisser" wrote in message om... "Joe" wrote in message ... "trainfan1" wrote in message ... WRH wrote: 50:1 That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good oil and high test gas. Don't bother with high test gas... it could cause cause starting & idling problems as there is usually an additive package included that just isn't required for an outboard. The minimum octane rating for 1973 Evinrudes is 80. Rob Plus, unlike a 4 stroke, a two stroke will begin to lose power as the octane is increased above the detonation point. At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. If true, (coming for you unlikely) the higher octane is most likely helping to overcome another problem you have with your motor. Boosting octane above the minimum required in a stock outboard *is* a waste of money *and* will hurt performance. Admixtures aren't the same now, as they were in 1973. Engine has good compression, has been pressure tested (w/leakdown test) with good results. Rebuilt carbs, link/sync. OMC technician knew of the problem, said it was very common in those motors, suggested using high test. It will idle all day in gear now. Last year, out of curiousity, I went back to regular unleaded, and when I tried it several times, it acted like it did prior to high test. So, there you go. Now, of course, seeing how you think so highly of yourself, you'll disagree, but, the motor is on the back of MY boat, and high test is the way to go. Again, it was an OMC tech who gave me the idea. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"basskisser" wrote in message om... At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. Were you lying then, or lying now? A quote from you to jog your memory: "Thanks, Dave, it's a 1973 135hp. You may remember me. The thing STILL won't idle in gear correctly. The plug wires seem to be a little brittle, and cracked. Did the decarbonizing, works a little better, running 93 octane, etc."http://tinyurl.com/ytq4t |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
What does ANY of this long winded crap have to do with a 1973 Evinrude
2 cycle motor, that was designed to run on leaded fuel? "John Smith" wrote in message news:y4bfc.142795$JO3.84436@attbi_s04... According to the experts, premium gas run in engines designed for regular gas does not improve performance and will actually hurt performance. While there are some people who swear the engine runs better using premium, the experts say they must have smoked too much pot and have fried their brain cells. Why use premium gas when regular will do? By James R. Healey, USA TODAY Marti Mayne once fueled her low-octane Subaru with high-octane gas. Not now. Premium-gas prices "went sky high, and now I just use low grade" to motor around Yarmouth, Maine, where she runs a marketing business. Cost differences between regular and premium is as plain as, well, the sign at the station, like this one in Chicago. By Scott Olson, Getty Images When prices dropped earlier this year, she stuck with cheaper fuel because "I don't think that my car runs any differently on high, medium or lower grade." She's right. Engines designed for regular fuel don't improve on premium and sometimes run worse. And today's engines designed for premium run fine on regular, too, their makers say, though power declines slightly. (Background: About Octane ratings) But premium lovers are passionate. "I would simply curtail driving rather than switch grades," says Bill Teater of Mount Vernon, Ohio, who puts high-test in both his Cadillacs, though only one recommends it. He's sure both the DeVille and the Escalade run rough and lack pep on regular. Prejudice and preference aside, engineers, scientists and the federal government say there's little need for premium. When fuel's cheap, motorists are willing to pay 20 cents or so more for premium. But as gas prices sneak back up, the mental wrangle begins anew over whether it's OK to burn cheaper, regular-grade gas. AS PRICES RISE, CONSUMERS SHUN PREMIUM GAS Average price of a gallon of premium gasoline: 1993 $1.30 1999 $1.36 2002 $1.58 20031 $1.80 Premium gas share of all gas sold: 1993 19.9% 1999 16.8% 2002 13.5% 2003 12.1% Sources: Energy Information Administration, American Petroleum Institute The answer almost always is yes. "I personally use regular even though my owner's manual says you'll get better performance with premium," says Lewis Gibbs, consulting engineer and 45-year veteran at Chevron oil company. He's chairman of Technical Committee 7 on Fuels, part of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Fuels & Lubricants Council. Gibbs knows gas. "My wife runs midgrade (89 octane) in her car, and it's a turbocharged engine" meant for 91-octane premium, he says. Premium - gasoline having an octane rating 91 or higher - is just 12.1% of sales this year, down from 13.5% in 2002, when it was 22 cents a gallon cheaper, and well below the modern high of 20.3% in 1994, when it was 49 cents cheaper, according to industry and government data. Despite the allure of premium, once they abandon it, most motorists don't come back, the data suggest. For every dime increase in the price, sales of premium gas drop 1%, Bob Johnson, general manager of gasoline and environmental services for the 7-Eleven chain, figures, based on data back to 1998. The main advantage of premium-grade gas is that it allows automakers to advertise a few more horsepower by designing and tuning engines to take advantage of premium's anti-knock properties. But auto engineers generally agree that if you use regular in a premium engine, the power loss is so slight, most drivers can't tell. "I go back and forth, and I'm hard-pressed to notice" whether there's regular or premium in the tank, says Jeff Jetter, principal chemist at Honda Research and Development Americas. He drives an Acura designed for premium. Import brands, especially, use premium fuel to distinguish their upmarket models. Most Toyotas, for instance, are designed to run on regular or midgrade, while the automaker's Lexus luxury brand prefers premium. Same with Honda and its Acura luxury line. "Generally, the more expensive the vehicle, the higher the expectation for performance and the more the customer is willing to pay for fuel," says Pete Haidos, head of product planning for Nissan in the USA. Actually, the price debate is nearly worthless. At 20 cents more for premium, pumping 20 gallons of it instead of regular would cost $4 more. Annually, that's a difference of $171 for a vehicle that averages 14 miles per gallon - as some big sport-utility vehicles do - and is driven 12,000 miles a year. Gasoline retailers and refiners like high-test because it's more profitable than regular-grade gas is. The retailer paid about 8 cents more for the premium you pay 20 cents more for - though that margin can swing wildly. Refiners make a few cents a gallon more on premium than on regular when they sell to wholesale distributors. As long as it's clean Profit is meaningless to the modern engine, which, regardless of what's specified in the owner's manual, hardly cares what you use - as long as it's clean. Today's engines use highly evolved versions of a device called a knock sensor to adjust settings automatically for low-octane gas. And more engine control computers have adequate memory to allow separate sets of instructions for various octanes. The engine control computers keep pushing to maximize performance on whatever grade of fuel is used. Extreme pressure inside the cylinders causes knock, which is the sound of the pistons literally rattling inside the cylinders. Too much too long can damage the engine. A little now and then won't. The only modern engines that should really need premium are those with superchargers, which force-feed fuel into the cylinders. "You're driving along and just tramp the gas and the knock sensor cannot sense the knock fast enough in some cases," because the supercharger boosts pressure so fast, says Bob Furey, chemist and fuels specialist at General Motors. Burning regular when the owner's manual specifies premium won't void the warranty, nor damage the engine, even the most finicky automakers say. "You're giving up perhaps just a little bit of performance that a customer wouldn't really even notice, it's so slight," says Furey. Automakers say they don't test premium engines on regular to check the difference, but some auto engineers estimate that power declines roughly 5%. "We can't guarantee the vehicle will perform as specified if other than premium fuel is used," says Mercedes-Benz spokeswoman Michelle Murad. All U.S. Mercedes engines specify premium. All Porsche engines are designed for premium, too, but it's not available everywhere. "Our cars must be able to drive all over the world, and so we are able to run on regular," says Jakob Neusser, director of powertrain development at Porsche's research and development center in Weissach, Germany. "You don't have to feel that a mechanical problem or anything else will happen" using regular gas, even in the highest-performance, regular-production Porsches. Premium, in fact, sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. As a result, some engines won't start as quickly or run as smoothly on premium, notes Gibbs, the SAE fuel expert. High-test does have a potential fuel economy benefit. It is slightly denser than lower-octane gas, meaning there's a little more energy in a gallon. But the small difference is hard to measure in real-world use, and that same density can contribute to undesirable buildup of waste products inside the engine. No data show that engines designed strictly for regular run better or longer on premium. The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "(I)n most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner." There is "no way of taking advantage of premium in a regular-grade car," says Furey. "There is no gain. You're wasting money," insists Jim Blenkarn, in charge of powertrains at Nissan in the USA. "No customer should ever be deluded into thinking there's any value in buying a higher grade of octane than we specify," says Toyota's Paul Williamsen, technical expert and trainer. But premium retains a mystique. Even Mayne, the sensible Subaru owner who has switched to regular, says she'll buy premium when her neighborhood station has a special price. "It's my perception that I might get better gas mileage or that it might be better for my engine," she says. "I would stop driving rather than use a lower grade of gasoline," says Andrew Martschenko of Boston, who drives a 2003 Nissan Maxima. Nissan says premium is "recommended" for that engine - automaker code for regular is OK, but you'll only get the advertised power on premium. If the price difference between regular and premium grew to $1, Martschenko says, "Then I might consider trading down" to regular. Guilt plays a part Some people feel almost guilty, as if they are abusing their cars, when they don't burn premium, says gasoline retailer Jay Ricker, president of Ricker Oil of Anderson, Ind., which operates 28 stations. "They go all the way down to 87 (octane), but maybe every fourth tank they put in the good stuff." Sam Turner has seen the appeal, too. He's president of Favorite Markets of Dalton, Ga., which operates 139 outlets in three states. He recalls visiting one of his stations during a price war with a nearby station, which had cut the price of premium to just 4 cents more than regular, instead of the usual 20-cent difference. "A customer was waiting and asked me if I was going to match the guy across the street. I said, 'Yeah,' and he said, 'Good. For 4 cents, I'm gonna buy super.' " Basskisser wrote At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"basskisser" wrote in message m... What does ANY of this long winded crap have to do with a 1973 Evinrude 2 cycle motor, that was designed to run on leaded fuel? Funny how you reply to a 10 day old post yet ignore a post from yesterday that proves *you* a *liar* on this subject. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"Joe" wrote in message .. .
"Joe" wrote in message ... "basskisser" wrote in message om... At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. Were you lying then, or lying now? A quote from you to jog your memory: "Thanks, Dave, it's a 1973 135hp. You may remember me. The thing STILL won't idle in gear correctly. The plug wires seem to be a little brittle, and cracked. Did the decarbonizing, works a little better, running 93 octane, etc." http://tinyurl.com/ytq4t Poor ol' (b)asskisser, caught in another lie. Nooo, stupid boy. What you don't realize, is that when I posted, yes, it did seem as though it didn't work. But, after a couple of outings, things looked up. It now runs fine, to this day. Now, what happened, I thought you had blocked my posts? Liar? |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"basskisser" wrote in message om... "Joe" wrote in message .. . "Joe" wrote in message ... "basskisser" wrote in message om... At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. Were you lying then, or lying now? A quote from you to jog your memory: "Thanks, Dave, it's a 1973 135hp. You may remember me. The thing STILL won't idle in gear correctly. The plug wires seem to be a little brittle, and cracked. Did the decarbonizing, works a little better, running 93 octane, etc." http://tinyurl.com/ytq4t Poor ol' (b)asskisser, caught in another lie. Nooo, stupid boy. What you don't realize, is that when I posted, yes, it did seem as though it didn't work. But, after a couple of outings, things looked up. It now runs fine, to this day. Now, what happened, I thought you had blocked my posts? Liar? More lies. First you state that "high test *instantly* cured my problem", now it's "after a couple of outings" Now lets blow this one out of the water. On 4-15-2000 you say you have an idle problem. http://tinyurl.com/2n822 On 4-25-2000 you say you used decarbonizer and it "worked quite well" in clearing up your rough idle problem. http://tinyurl.com/ypdl9 On 5-18-2000 you say on the advise of Dave Brown you changed the plugs, decarbonized and running high test and it has solved your idle problem. http://tinyurl.com/2r224 Two weeks later on 5-31-2000 your boat "still won't idle correctly" http://tinyurl.com/2f6th On 8-8-2000 you are still having problems with your idle. http://tinyurl.com/2hy2f On 8-11-200 you are now going to rebuild your carbs to cure the idle problem. http://tinyurl.com/35f68 On 4-26-2002 you advise someone who's motor is stalling in gear to rebuild the carbs because it "made a world of difference" on yours. http://tinyurl.com/3brry 8-13-2002 you say your still having idle problems. http://tinyurl.com/2xrw8 The next time we here from you on this subject is in this thread, where you state that high test "instantly cured my problem" Then when confronted with proof of your lie, you change your story to "after a couple of outings". Your own posting history proves this also a lie. Are we supposed to believe you have used your boat only a couple of times over the past 4 years? |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
The engine should run better on unleaded fuel. Less deposits. Lead was
used as a cushion for soft valves as well as an octane booster. Stellite valves eliminated that requirement. Bill "basskisser" wrote in message m... What does ANY of this long winded crap have to do with a 1973 Evinrude 2 cycle motor, that was designed to run on leaded fuel? "John Smith" wrote in message news:y4bfc.142795$JO3.84436@attbi_s04... According to the experts, premium gas run in engines designed for regular gas does not improve performance and will actually hurt performance. While there are some people who swear the engine runs better using premium, the experts say they must have smoked too much pot and have fried their brain cells. Why use premium gas when regular will do? By James R. Healey, USA TODAY Marti Mayne once fueled her low-octane Subaru with high-octane gas. Not now. Premium-gas prices "went sky high, and now I just use low grade" to motor around Yarmouth, Maine, where she runs a marketing business. Cost differences between regular and premium is as plain as, well, the sign at the station, like this one in Chicago. By Scott Olson, Getty Images When prices dropped earlier this year, she stuck with cheaper fuel because "I don't think that my car runs any differently on high, medium or lower grade." She's right. Engines designed for regular fuel don't improve on premium and sometimes run worse. And today's engines designed for premium run fine on regular, too, their makers say, though power declines slightly. (Background: About Octane ratings) But premium lovers are passionate. "I would simply curtail driving rather than switch grades," says Bill Teater of Mount Vernon, Ohio, who puts high-test in both his Cadillacs, though only one recommends it. He's sure both the DeVille and the Escalade run rough and lack pep on regular. Prejudice and preference aside, engineers, scientists and the federal government say there's little need for premium. When fuel's cheap, motorists are willing to pay 20 cents or so more for premium. But as gas prices sneak back up, the mental wrangle begins anew over whether it's OK to burn cheaper, regular-grade gas. AS PRICES RISE, CONSUMERS SHUN PREMIUM GAS Average price of a gallon of premium gasoline: 1993 $1.30 1999 $1.36 2002 $1.58 20031 $1.80 Premium gas share of all gas sold: 1993 19.9% 1999 16.8% 2002 13.5% 2003 12.1% Sources: Energy Information Administration, American Petroleum Institute The answer almost always is yes. "I personally use regular even though my owner's manual says you'll get better performance with premium," says Lewis Gibbs, consulting engineer and 45-year veteran at Chevron oil company. He's chairman of Technical Committee 7 on Fuels, part of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Fuels & Lubricants Council. Gibbs knows gas. "My wife runs midgrade (89 octane) in her car, and it's a turbocharged engine" meant for 91-octane premium, he says. Premium - gasoline having an octane rating 91 or higher - is just 12.1% of sales this year, down from 13.5% in 2002, when it was 22 cents a gallon cheaper, and well below the modern high of 20.3% in 1994, when it was 49 cents cheaper, according to industry and government data. Despite the allure of premium, once they abandon it, most motorists don't come back, the data suggest. For every dime increase in the price, sales of premium gas drop 1%, Bob Johnson, general manager of gasoline and environmental services for the 7-Eleven chain, figures, based on data back to 1998. The main advantage of premium-grade gas is that it allows automakers to advertise a few more horsepower by designing and tuning engines to take advantage of premium's anti-knock properties. But auto engineers generally agree that if you use regular in a premium engine, the power loss is so slight, most drivers can't tell. "I go back and forth, and I'm hard-pressed to notice" whether there's regular or premium in the tank, says Jeff Jetter, principal chemist at Honda Research and Development Americas. He drives an Acura designed for premium. Import brands, especially, use premium fuel to distinguish their upmarket models. Most Toyotas, for instance, are designed to run on regular or midgrade, while the automaker's Lexus luxury brand prefers premium. Same with Honda and its Acura luxury line. "Generally, the more expensive the vehicle, the higher the expectation for performance and the more the customer is willing to pay for fuel," says Pete Haidos, head of product planning for Nissan in the USA. Actually, the price debate is nearly worthless. At 20 cents more for premium, pumping 20 gallons of it instead of regular would cost $4 more. Annually, that's a difference of $171 for a vehicle that averages 14 miles per gallon - as some big sport-utility vehicles do - and is driven 12,000 miles a year. Gasoline retailers and refiners like high-test because it's more profitable than regular-grade gas is. The retailer paid about 8 cents more for the premium you pay 20 cents more for - though that margin can swing wildly. Refiners make a few cents a gallon more on premium than on regular when they sell to wholesale distributors. As long as it's clean Profit is meaningless to the modern engine, which, regardless of what's specified in the owner's manual, hardly cares what you use - as long as it's clean. Today's engines use highly evolved versions of a device called a knock sensor to adjust settings automatically for low-octane gas. And more engine control computers have adequate memory to allow separate sets of instructions for various octanes. The engine control computers keep pushing to maximize performance on whatever grade of fuel is used. Extreme pressure inside the cylinders causes knock, which is the sound of the pistons literally rattling inside the cylinders. Too much too long can damage the engine. A little now and then won't. The only modern engines that should really need premium are those with superchargers, which force-feed fuel into the cylinders. "You're driving along and just tramp the gas and the knock sensor cannot sense the knock fast enough in some cases," because the supercharger boosts pressure so fast, says Bob Furey, chemist and fuels specialist at General Motors. Burning regular when the owner's manual specifies premium won't void the warranty, nor damage the engine, even the most finicky automakers say. "You're giving up perhaps just a little bit of performance that a customer wouldn't really even notice, it's so slight," says Furey. Automakers say they don't test premium engines on regular to check the difference, but some auto engineers estimate that power declines roughly 5%. "We can't guarantee the vehicle will perform as specified if other than premium fuel is used," says Mercedes-Benz spokeswoman Michelle Murad. All U.S. Mercedes engines specify premium. All Porsche engines are designed for premium, too, but it's not available everywhere. "Our cars must be able to drive all over the world, and so we are able to run on regular," says Jakob Neusser, director of powertrain development at Porsche's research and development center in Weissach, Germany. "You don't have to feel that a mechanical problem or anything else will happen" using regular gas, even in the highest-performance, regular-production Porsches. Premium, in fact, sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. As a result, some engines won't start as quickly or run as smoothly on premium, notes Gibbs, the SAE fuel expert. High-test does have a potential fuel economy benefit. It is slightly denser than lower-octane gas, meaning there's a little more energy in a gallon. But the small difference is hard to measure in real-world use, and that same density can contribute to undesirable buildup of waste products inside the engine. No data show that engines designed strictly for regular run better or longer on premium. The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "(I)n most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner." There is "no way of taking advantage of premium in a regular-grade car," says Furey. "There is no gain. You're wasting money," insists Jim Blenkarn, in charge of powertrains at Nissan in the USA. "No customer should ever be deluded into thinking there's any value in buying a higher grade of octane than we specify," says Toyota's Paul Williamsen, technical expert and trainer. But premium retains a mystique. Even Mayne, the sensible Subaru owner who has switched to regular, says she'll buy premium when her neighborhood station has a special price. "It's my perception that I might get better gas mileage or that it might be better for my engine," she says. "I would stop driving rather than use a lower grade of gasoline," says Andrew Martschenko of Boston, who drives a 2003 Nissan Maxima. Nissan says premium is "recommended" for that engine - automaker code for regular is OK, but you'll only get the advertised power on premium. If the price difference between regular and premium grew to $1, Martschenko says, "Then I might consider trading down" to regular. Guilt plays a part Some people feel almost guilty, as if they are abusing their cars, when they don't burn premium, says gasoline retailer Jay Ricker, president of Ricker Oil of Anderson, Ind., which operates 28 stations. "They go all the way down to 87 (octane), but maybe every fourth tank they put in the good stuff." Sam Turner has seen the appeal, too. He's president of Favorite Markets of Dalton, Ga., which operates 139 outlets in three states. He recalls visiting one of his stations during a price war with a nearby station, which had cut the price of premium to just 4 cents more than regular, instead of the usual 20-cent difference. "A customer was waiting and asked me if I was going to match the guy across the street. I said, 'Yeah,' and he said, 'Good. For 4 cents, I'm gonna buy super.' " Basskisser wrote At the advice of an OMC tech who used to post here, I started using high test in my 1973 135 Evinrude, and it made a hell of a difference. I had trouble getting the thing to idle smoothly in gear. I rebuilt the carbs, did a link and sync, etc. The high test instantly cured my idle problem, and ran great at wot. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
"Joe" wrote in message ... Poor ol' (b)asskisser, caught in another lie. Nooo, stupid boy. What you don't realize, is that when I posted, yes, it did seem as though it didn't work. But, after a couple of outings, things looked up. It now runs fine, to this day. Now, what happened, I thought you had blocked my posts? Liar? More lies. First you state that "high test *instantly* cured my problem", now it's "after a couple of outings" Now lets blow this one out of the water. On 4-15-2000 you say you have an idle problem. http://tinyurl.com/2n822 On 4-25-2000 you say you used decarbonizer and it "worked quite well" in clearing up your rough idle problem. http://tinyurl.com/ypdl9 On 5-18-2000 you say on the advise of Dave Brown you changed the plugs, decarbonized and running high test and it has solved your idle problem. http://tinyurl.com/2r224 Two weeks later on 5-31-2000 your boat "still won't idle correctly" http://tinyurl.com/2f6th On 8-8-2000 you are still having problems with your idle. http://tinyurl.com/2hy2f On 8-11-200 you are now going to rebuild your carbs to cure the idle problem. http://tinyurl.com/35f68 On 4-26-2002 you advise someone who's motor is stalling in gear to rebuild the carbs because it "made a world of difference" on yours. http://tinyurl.com/3brry 8-13-2002 you say your still having idle problems. http://tinyurl.com/2xrw8 The next time we here from you on this subject is in this thread, where you state that high test "instantly cured my problem" Then when confronted with proof of your lie, you change your story to "after a couple of outings". Your own posting history proves this also a lie. Are we supposed to believe you have used your boat only a couple of times over the past 4 years? Poor ol' (b)asskisser, caught in three lies in just one thread. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
I have been around outboards for over 35 years. Old units like a 1973 135 hp Rude were first year designed with to small bearings on the crank. It was fixed in 1974 to large bearings. Don't believe me check the crank part numbers for the years and you will see. More oil in the 73 135 HP is my advice and also to run Premium gas. No matter what anyone says premium fuel has more cleaners in it to prevent the dreaded ring sticking in 2 strokes. ALSO use only synthetic oil and the best you can get is Red Line . Why you ask? It is simple.Synthetic does not leave deposits in the engine to start with. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Tuesday, April 13, 2004 at 3:43:44 PM UTC-6, WRH wrote:
50:1 That's 1 pint oil added to 6 gal gas. Do your self a favor and only use good oil and high test gas. -- Bill Chesapeake, Va "Jeff Jones" wrote in message 4.205... can anyone tell me what the correct mixture is for a 1973 50 hp evinrude is? please reply to post or e-mail at thanks, Jeff OK. I am confused. 50:1 means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Example: 50 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil.By my calculations 6 US gallons equals 22.7 liters. This means you should put about 0.45 of a liter of oil in to get a 50:1 mix.(Simply put - 100:2 or 50:1 or 25:0.5) Can someone tell me what I am missing? Thanks |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
Get yourself to a Vespa scooter dealer. He should have a little cup that makes mixed gas child's play.
I had one when l was using my 1954 British Seagull 3 hp outboard that needed 10:1 gas/oil mix. Don't even ask about the crazy 140 weight lower end oil. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
|
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 6:27:18 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 13:55:17 -0700 (PDT), wrote: OK. I am confused. 50:1 means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Example: 50 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil.By my calculations 6 US gallons equals 22.7 liters. This means you should put about 0.45 of a liter of oil in to get a 50:1 mix.(Simply put - 100:2 or 50:1 or 25:0.5) Can someone tell me what I am missing? Thanks In the US we say you use 6 gallons of gas (48 pints of gas) with a pint of oil so that is 48:1 (or 49:1 in the final volume) but in either case, close enough for a mixture that was arbitrarily chosen in the first place. I like the little bottles that say. "mix the contents of this bottle with one gallon of gasoline for 40:1 ratio" Takes all the guess work out of figuring "parts" |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 18:56:11 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 6:27:18 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 13:55:17 -0700 (PDT), wrote: OK. I am confused. 50:1 means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Example: 50 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil.By my calculations 6 US gallons equals 22.7 liters. This means you should put about 0.45 of a liter of oil in to get a 50:1 mix.(Simply put - 100:2 or 50:1 or 25:0.5) Can someone tell me what I am missing? Thanks In the US we say you use 6 gallons of gas (48 pints of gas) with a pint of oil so that is 48:1 (or 49:1 in the final volume) but in either case, close enough for a mixture that was arbitrarily chosen in the first place. I like the little bottles that say. "mix the contents of this bottle with one gallon of gasoline for 40:1 ratio" Takes all the guess work out of figuring "parts" Just be aware they are not full. Don't just fill them up and dump it in. I think a full bottle is 32:1 and they short fill them for leaner mixes. I have some of those bottles with a little compartment at the top. You squeeze the oil up into the top compartment and dump it in. It is the right amount of oil for a gallon of gas. One is 32:1, the other 50:1. That takes care of all of the yard tools I have. It has been a real long time since I used premix in an outboard, my Merc 75 had injection but when I had the 1974 era 40 I used the pint cans. I bought them by the case. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 12:10:53 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 18:56:11 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 6:27:18 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 13:55:17 -0700 (PDT), wrote: OK. I am confused. 50:1 means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Example: 50 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil.By my calculations 6 US gallons equals 22.7 liters. This means you should put about 0.45 of a liter of oil in to get a 50:1 mix.(Simply put - 100:2 or 50:1 or 25:0.5) Can someone tell me what I am missing? Thanks In the US we say you use 6 gallons of gas (48 pints of gas) with a pint of oil so that is 48:1 (or 49:1 in the final volume) but in either case, close enough for a mixture that was arbitrarily chosen in the first place. I like the little bottles that say. "mix the contents of this bottle with one gallon of gasoline for 40:1 ratio" Takes all the guess work out of figuring "parts" Just be aware they are not full. Don't just fill them up and dump it in. I think a full bottle is 32:1 and they short fill them for leaner mixes. I have some of those bottles with a little compartment at the top. You squeeze the oil up into the top compartment and dump it in. It is the right amount of oil for a gallon of gas. One is 32:1, the other 50:1. That takes care of all of the yard tools I have. It has been a real long time since I used premix in an outboard, my Merc 75 had injection but when I had the 1974 era 40 I used the pint cans. I bought them by the case. That could be Greg,but I haven't had any problems with using them over the years, but then again I'm not too worried about burning up cheap chainsaws and weed eaters. Besides that oil was made for air cooled too cycles... However in my 2 cycle boat motors in the past, I did used the squeeze bottle with the top cup. I'd go 40:1 or just a bit thicker. Evinrude had that. Not sure if they still do or not for the old water cooled 2 strokes... |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 8:55:59 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 12:10:53 AM UTC-5, wrote: On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 18:56:11 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 6:27:18 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 13:55:17 -0700 (PDT), wrote: OK. I am confused. 50:1 means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Example: 50 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil.By my calculations 6 US gallons equals 22.7 liters. This means you should put about 0.45 of a liter of oil in to get a 50:1 mix.(Simply put - 100:2 or 50:1 or 25:0.5) Can someone tell me what I am missing? Thanks In the US we say you use 6 gallons of gas (48 pints of gas) with a pint of oil so that is 48:1 (or 49:1 in the final volume) but in either case, close enough for a mixture that was arbitrarily chosen in the first place. I like the little bottles that say. "mix the contents of this bottle with one gallon of gasoline for 40:1 ratio" Takes all the guess work out of figuring "parts" Just be aware they are not full. Don't just fill them up and dump it in. I think a full bottle is 32:1 and they short fill them for leaner mixes. I have some of those bottles with a little compartment at the top. You squeeze the oil up into the top compartment and dump it in. It is the right amount of oil for a gallon of gas. One is 32:1, the other 50:1. That takes care of all of the yard tools I have. It has been a real long time since I used premix in an outboard, my Merc 75 had injection but when I had the 1974 era 40 I used the pint cans. I bought them by the case. That could be Greg,but I haven't had any problems with using them over the years, but then again I'm not too worried about burning up cheap chainsaws and weed eaters. Besides that oil was made for air cooled too cycles... However in my 2 cycle boat motors in the past, I did used the squeeze bottle with the top cup. I'd go 40:1 or just a bit thicker. Evinrude had that.. Not sure if they still do or not for the old water cooled 2 strokes... I have a big syringe with a long tube on the end. It's marked with oil ratios on the side for one gallon of gas. Suck the oil out of a big container until it hits the desired ratio mark, squirt it into a gallon of gas, and you're done. I did buy a six pack of Stihl oil when I bought my articulating head pruner.. In exchange they doubled the warranty. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
8:53 AMIts Me
On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 8:55:59 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote: On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 12:10:53 AM UTC-5, wrote: On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 18:56:11 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 6:27:18 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 13:55:17 -0700 (PDT), wrote: OK. I am confused. 50:1 means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Example: 50 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil.By my calculations 6 US gallons equals 22.7 liters. This means you should put about 0.45 of a liter of oil in to get a 50:1 mix.(Simply put - 100:2 or 50:1 or 25:0.5) Can someone tell me what I am missing? Thanks In the US we say you use 6 gallons of gas (48 pints of gas) with a pint of oil so that is 48:1 (or 49:1 in the final volume) but in either case, close enough for a mixture that was arbitrarily chosen in the first place. I like the little bottles that say. "mix the contents of this bottle with one gallon of gasoline for 40:1 ratio" Takes all the guess work out of figuring "parts" Just be aware they are not full. Don't just fill them up and dump it in. I think a full bottle is 32:1 and they short fill them for leaner mixes. I have some of those bottles with a little compartment at the top. You squeeze the oil up into the top compartment and dump it in. It is the right amount of oil for a gallon of gas. One is 32:1, the other 50:1. That takes care of all of the yard tools I have. It has been a real long time since I used premix in an outboard, my Merc 75 had injection but when I had the 1974 era 40 I used the pint cans. I bought them by the case. That could be Greg,but I haven't had any problems with using them over the years, but then again I'm not too worried about burning up cheap chainsaws and weed eaters. Besides that oil was made for air cooled too cycles... However in my 2 cycle boat motors in the past, I did used the squeeze bottle with the top cup. I'd go 40:1 or just a bit thicker. Evinrude had that.. Not sure if they still do or not for the old water cooled 2 strokes... I have a big syringe with a long tube on the end. It's marked with oil ratios on the side for one gallon of gas. Suck the oil out of a big container until it hits the desired ratio mark, squirt it into a gallon of gas, and you're done. I did buy a six pack of Stihl oil when I bought my articulating head pruner.. In exchange they doubled the warranty. ..... Sounds good to me if it works for you. I've seen those but never have used one... |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Fri, 14 Oct 2016 07:30:58 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: 8:53 AMIts Me On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 8:55:59 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote: On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 12:10:53 AM UTC-5, wrote: On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 18:56:11 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: On Thursday, October 13, 2016 at 6:27:18 PM UTC-5, wrote: On Thu, 13 Oct 2016 13:55:17 -0700 (PDT), wrote: OK. I am confused. 50:1 means 50 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Example: 50 liters of gas to 1 liter of oil.By my calculations 6 US gallons equals 22.7 liters. This means you should put about 0.45 of a liter of oil in to get a 50:1 mix.(Simply put - 100:2 or 50:1 or 25:0.5) Can someone tell me what I am missing? Thanks In the US we say you use 6 gallons of gas (48 pints of gas) with a pint of oil so that is 48:1 (or 49:1 in the final volume) but in either case, close enough for a mixture that was arbitrarily chosen in the first place. I like the little bottles that say. "mix the contents of this bottle with one gallon of gasoline for 40:1 ratio" Takes all the guess work out of figuring "parts" Just be aware they are not full. Don't just fill them up and dump it in. I think a full bottle is 32:1 and they short fill them for leaner mixes. I have some of those bottles with a little compartment at the top. You squeeze the oil up into the top compartment and dump it in. It is the right amount of oil for a gallon of gas. One is 32:1, the other 50:1. That takes care of all of the yard tools I have. It has been a real long time since I used premix in an outboard, my Merc 75 had injection but when I had the 1974 era 40 I used the pint cans. I bought them by the case. That could be Greg,but I haven't had any problems with using them over the years, but then again I'm not too worried about burning up cheap chainsaws and weed eaters. Besides that oil was made for air cooled too cycles... However in my 2 cycle boat motors in the past, I did used the squeeze bottle with the top cup. I'd go 40:1 or just a bit thicker. Evinrude had that. Not sure if they still do or not for the old water cooled 2 strokes... I have a big syringe with a long tube on the end. It's marked with oil ratios on the side for one gallon of gas. Suck the oil out of a big container until it hits the desired ratio mark, squirt it into a gallon of gas, and you're done. I did buy a six pack of Stihl oil when I bought my articulating head pruner. In exchange they doubled the warranty. .... Sounds good to me if it works for you. I've seen those but never have used one... The 10cc syringe is handy for things like this. My chain saw holds about a pint of gas (~500 cc) 10cc of oil is perfect for that. Things like that are good if you do not think you will use a gallon of gas before it goes bad. I end up using yard tools often enough in the summer that the gas does not usually go bad. I still try to run them dry if I can. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
10:41 On Fri, 14 Oct 2016 07:30:58 -0700 (PDT), Tim - show quoted text - The 10cc syringe is handy for things like this. My chain saw holds about a pint of gas (~500 cc) 10cc of oil is perfect for that. Things like that are good if you do not think you will use a gallon of gas before it goes bad. I end up using yard tools often enough in the summer that the gas does not usually go bad. I still try to run them dry if I can. ..... When my 2 gal of pre-mix gets old it goes in my old 8-N ford tractor. It eats it with no problem. Lol! |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
Thank the Lord..
Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Fri, 14 Oct 2016 09:56:51 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote:
Thank the Lord.. Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on. Thanks, Don! |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
True North wrote:
Thank the Lord.. Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on. Still can't quote a thread? Try harder. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Friday, 14 October 2016 22:41:51 UTC-3, Alex wrote:
True North wrote: Thank the Lord.. Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on. Still can't quote a thread? Try harder. Not everyone is as ditzy as you, Ditzy. Most can follow and figure out what I'm responding to. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
True North wrote:
On Friday, 14 October 2016 22:41:51 UTC-3, Alex wrote: True North wrote: Thank the Lord.. Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on. Still can't quote a thread? Try harder. Not everyone is as ditzy as you, Ditzy. Most can follow and figure out what I'm responding to. Ditzy? Why not learn how to quote like the rest of the group? Are you lazy or just dumb? |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Fri, 14 Oct 2016 19:29:14 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote:
On Friday, 14 October 2016 22:41:51 UTC-3, Alex wrote: True North wrote: Thank the Lord.. Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on. Still can't quote a thread? Try harder. Not everyone is as ditzy as you, Ditzy. Most can follow and figure out what I'm responding to. Most know you couldn't follow the oil thread way back when! Still seem to have the same problem with reading skills, eh? |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
Poquito Loco
- hide quoted text - On Fri, 14 Oct 2016 19:29:14 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: On Friday, 14 October 2016 22:41:51 UTC-3, Alex Â*wrote: True North wrote: Thank the Lord.. Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Â*Now we can move on. Still can't quote a thread? Â*Try harder. Not everyone is as ditzy as you, Ditzy. Most can follow and figure out what I'm responding to. "Most know you couldn't follow the oil thread way back when! Still seem to have the same problem with reading skills, eh?" Nice to see you coming to the aid of your turds, Johnny. Wonder if you did the same for the rank and file in your army days. |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
On Sat, 15 Oct 2016 08:37:22 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote:
Poquito Loco - hide quoted text - On Fri, 14 Oct 2016 19:29:14 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: On Friday, 14 October 2016 22:41:51 UTC-3, Alex *wrote: True North wrote: Thank the Lord.. Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. *Now we can move on. Still can't quote a thread? *Try harder. Not everyone is as ditzy as you, Ditzy. Most can follow and figure out what I'm responding to. "Most know you couldn't follow the oil thread way back when! Still seem to have the same problem with reading skills, eh?" Nice to see you coming to the aid of your turds, Johnny. Wonder if you did the same for the rank and file in your army days. Don, do you ever get your head out of the toilet? |
fuel/oil mixture - 1973 evinrude
True North wrote:
Poquito Loco - hide quoted text - On Fri, 14 Oct 2016 19:29:14 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote: On Friday, 14 October 2016 22:41:51 UTC-3, Alex wrote: True North wrote: Thank the Lord.. Our 2 stroke vs 4 stroke motor oil expert has spoken. Now we can move on. Still can't quote a thread? Try harder. Not everyone is as ditzy as you, Ditzy. Most can follow and figure out what I'm responding to. "Most know you couldn't follow the oil thread way back when! Still seem to have the same problem with reading skills, eh?" Nice to see you coming to the aid of your turds, Johnny. Wonder if you did the same for the rank and file in your army days. Really? You support/respond to Harry's BS minutes after he posts. Don't forget that most people here have real computers that can see that. It's time for you to STFU. |
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