A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...
You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.

From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip
--
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2


"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

Support the pipe well every 24-26". Do not allow the fittings to be
subjected to stress. The Shields and Sealand fittings only come
straight and 90s. Try to use the straights where ever possible and
sweeps on all pipe to pipe turns.

Like I said, I have some extra hose fittings if you need them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.


From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Not really an answer to your question but...I saw hose that looked
suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware store
the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot tub
hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference to
convince me to try it next time.

I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and all
at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for.

"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message news
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two
basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on
the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use?
Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say
(some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not
needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential
input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

MMC wrote:
I saw hose that looked
suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware store
the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot tub
hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference to
convince me to try it next time.

You'll be sorry. Not all white flexible pvc hose is created equal...and
hot tub hose is not rated for sanitation system use, only for water use.
It'll permeate with odor very quickly.

I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and all
at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for.

That may be ok, but if it'll be connected to any below-waterline
thru-hulls, make sure it's a grade that's rated for below-waterline use.

Flex hoses are like hard PVC in that they have "schedule" #s...schedule
148, 144 and 101 are rated for sanitation use...I'm not sure what the
"schedules" are for clear hose, but they also use a standardized system
that will tell you which hoses are rated for below waterline use and
which ones aren't.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Thanks for the clarification Peggy. I'll check the ratings on the hot tub
hose and let you know what I come up with.
I would imagine that if I can get the manufacturers part #s at the hardware
store, I could compare with #s on marine hose.
MMC
"Peggie Hall" wrote in message
...


MMC wrote:
I saw hose that looked
suspiciously like marine sanitation hose in my neighborhood hardware
store
the other day and when I asked the salesman about it he said it was hot
tub
hose. Don't remember the actual price, but it was enough of a difference
to
convince me to try it next time.

You'll be sorry. Not all white flexible pvc hose is created equal...and
hot tub hose is not rated for sanitation system use, only for water use.
It'll permeate with odor very quickly.

I've also found tygon (sp?) tubing with the colored reinforcements and
all
at a farm supply for alot less than boat store people sell it for.

That may be ok, but if it'll be connected to any below-waterline
thru-hulls, make sure it's a grade that's rated for below-waterline use.

Flex hoses are like hard PVC in that they have "schedule" #s...schedule
148, 144 and 101 are rated for sanitation use...I'm not sure what the
"schedules" are for clear hose, but they also use a standardized system
that will tell you which hoses are rated for below waterline use and
which ones aren't.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

MMC wrote:
Thanks for the clarification Peggy. I'll check the ratings on the hot tub
hose and let you know what I come up with.
I would imagine that if I can get the manufacturers part #s at the hardware
store, I could compare with #s on marine hose.

You don't need mfr's part #s, only the industry standard numbers...which
should be marked (in fact, I THINK it's required, but I could be wrong)
at intervals on all hose.

As for buying sanitation hose based on price...which is really more
expensive--$3.50/ft every few years...or $8/ft just once? Not to mention
what a major PITA job it is to replace hoses.

Bite the bullet and go with the SeaLand or AVS hose, along with all the
necessary radius fittings to do the job right, so you'll never have to
do it again.

-
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Powerboat Reports tested all the major sanitation hoses and Sealand's
Odorsafe came out far above the rest. It has a layer of something like Saran
wrap co-extruded in the hose to make it a lot more resistant to permeation.
I replaced all the hoses that came with my 16 year old boat with it. Not a
problem ever since, and I don't expect any for a long time.

Now, if you're really on a budget, get whatever sanitation hose you can
afford, and wrap it with Saran wrap.

--


Keith
__
If flying is so safe, why do they call the airport the terminal?
"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message news
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two
basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on
the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use?
Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say
(some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not
needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential
input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

How about solid copper pipe with short sections of that expensive hose just
to join to the thru hull and toilet itself etc....
Waste odors wont seep thru solid copper piping.
Shoot, you could even JB weld epoxy the pieces of copper together instead of
using metal solder.



"Skip Gundlach" wrote in
message news
I'm sure there's a good reason - but my initial looking discloses two
basic
types of sanitation hose.

Both claim the same purpose (keep the stuff and the odor inside while on
the
way outside), but there's one which is 3x the price of the other.

What's the difference, other than the obvious price? Easier to use?
Won't
let the odor/seep through, ever, vs some number of years? Stays whiter in
more conditions?

The difference, in boat money terms, is pretty insignificant, I'd say
(some
couple-three hundred bux for the standard 50' roll), but if it's not
needed,
I can use that couple-three somewhere else.

Anybody used both (e.g. "148" vs "Sealand") who can give experiential
input?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig
http://tinyurl.com/384p2

--
"And then again, when you sit at the helm of your little ship on a
clear night, and gaze at the countless stars overhead, and realize
that you are quite alone on a great, wide sea, it is apt to occur to
you that in the general scheme of things you are merely an
insignificant speck on the surface of the ocean; and are not nearly
so important or as self-sufficient as you thought you were. Which is
an exceedingly wholesome thought, and one that may effect a
permanent change in your deportment that will be greatly appreciated
by your friends." - James S. Pitkin

Scott Downey wrote:
How about solid copper pipe with short sections of that expensive hose just
to join to the thru hull and toilet itself etc....
Waste odors wont seep thru solid copper piping.
Shoot, you could even JB weld epoxy the pieces of copper together instead of
using metal solder.

Copper pipe is often used in boat fresh water systems, but urine is so
corrosive that copper isn't recommended for waste piping.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html