We used a air grinder on the cracks to open them up alittle. Then I
ran some weld across them (pre-heated with cutting torch first, used a
regular mig welder). Ground down those welds to remove some of the
pits, then ran a few more stringers over those. then topped it off
with some JB weld. (I took a night school class with a local iron
workers union, I'm Ohio bridgecode certified).

The coolant pressure test is a good idea, we'll have to give that a
try. Is there any other reason for how the water got on both sides of
the cylinders (besides freeze plugs or cracked intake)?

We thought it was head gaskets because usually when you get coolant in
the oil in a car, it's typically the head gaskets. Thats gonna suck if
we have to redo the gaskets, we probably only have 10-15 operating
hours hours on them.



"Lawrence James" wrote in message link.net...
It is possible that it ran down the carb, the valves will seep water past
them even closed if it sits long enough. You have enough issues that a tear
down is probably inevitable. You might do a pressure test on the cooling
system before you do. Get all the water out of the cylinders, spray some
wd40 down them and get the engine freed. Get as much water out as possible.
Clamp something in the ends of the water lines going to exhaust except one
and the line going to the transom for incoming water. Adapt a radiator
pressure tester to the open line to the exhaust and fill with water and
apply pressure. If it won't hold pressure start looking for the water.
Either in the oil pan or one or more of the cylinders. Replacing head
gaskets won't fix cracks in the lifter valley. What else did you do? If
you tried epoxy or something similar that may have cracked out. It is
difficult to get anything to survive the expansion and contraction of the
block.