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#1
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Raw Water Pump Conversion Question for the Gear Heads
Greetings,
I have twin 350 inboards in my '86 Sea Ray 300 Weekender. They were rebuilt a while back by the previous owner, and he requested that Crusader blocks be used because evidently the original Mercruiser blocks were only 2-bolt main. As such, I basically have Mercruiser engines with Crusader blocks and full fresh water cooling. The engines have the Bravo-style raw water pump that an octopus can barely reach, and the starboard pump is in the worst location possible. I guess the engineers decided that everyone would be pulling their engines once a year to replace the impellers, because that's almost what's required to access them. My last boat had a Volvo V-8, which had the brass, crank-mounted raw water pump that was easy to access and service. With the Bravo pump, you have to completely remove it from the engine, which is a nightmare when you consider two hoses have to come off the pump body, and everything is underneath the engine!!! The Volvo pump had a service plate with a handfull of screws, so replacing the impeller was a 10 minute affair. Is it possible to convert the Bravo-style raw water pump system to the crank mounted Volvo system on a Mercruiser engine? What's involved, other than getting the pump kit (pump and bracket)? Thanks in advance!!!! |
#2
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As you noted, you will need the pump as well as the bracket and grommet
that keep the crank mounted pump from spinning. Other than that, the only consideration is clearance between the front of the engine and any bulkhead present. On straight inboards this can be a problem, on stern drives it usually is not. submariner wrote: Greetings, I have twin 350 inboards in my '86 Sea Ray 300 Weekender. They were rebuilt a while back by the previous owner, and he requested that Crusader blocks be used because evidently the original Mercruiser blocks were only 2-bolt main. As such, I basically have Mercruiser engines with Crusader blocks and full fresh water cooling. The engines have the Bravo-style raw water pump that an octopus can barely reach, and the starboard pump is in the worst location possible. I guess the engineers decided that everyone would be pulling their engines once a year to replace the impellers, because that's almost what's required to access them. My last boat had a Volvo V-8, which had the brass, crank-mounted raw water pump that was easy to access and service. With the Bravo pump, you have to completely remove it from the engine, which is a nightmare when you consider two hoses have to come off the pump body, and everything is underneath the engine!!! The Volvo pump had a service plate with a handfull of screws, so replacing the impeller was a 10 minute affair. Is it possible to convert the Bravo-style raw water pump system to the crank mounted Volvo system on a Mercruiser engine? What's involved, other than getting the pump kit (pump and bracket)? Thanks in advance!!!! |
#3
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On Mon, 02 May 2005 22:51:10 GMT, Jim Kelly wrote:
As you noted, you will need the pump as well as the bracket and grommet that keep the crank mounted pump from spinning. Other than that, the only consideration is clearance between the front of the engine and any bulkhead present. On straight inboards this can be a problem, on stern drives it usually is not. Thanks........I have sufficient room in front of the engines, so clearance won't be an issue......The only concern I have is the hoses, being that the hose connections on the current Bravo pump are positioned straight towards the rear of the engine, so the hose run from the strainer and to the transmission cooler is straight. With a front mounted pump, I would assume I'll need a hose with a 90 degree bend in it.......I wonder if they make such an animal for someone wishing to do the conversion I'm considering..... |
#4
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I don't think you will need formed hoses. I have PCM engines with belt driven
Sherwood pumps. The inlet and outlet point straight down. The hoses run along the side of the engines and just turn up into the pump. The hose is 1.25" Shields Versaflex marine water hose and as long as the bends are not severe, it is easy to loop it up to the pump fittings. I considered changing to crank mounted pumps but have straight inboards and lack about an inch of bulkhead clearance. submariner wrote: On Mon, 02 May 2005 22:51:10 GMT, Jim Kelly wrote: As you noted, you will need the pump as well as the bracket and grommet that keep the crank mounted pump from spinning. Other than that, the only consideration is clearance between the front of the engine and any bulkhead present. On straight inboards this can be a problem, on stern drives it usually is not. Thanks........I have sufficient room in front of the engines, so clearance won't be an issue......The only concern I have is the hoses, being that the hose connections on the current Bravo pump are positioned straight towards the rear of the engine, so the hose run from the strainer and to the transmission cooler is straight. With a front mounted pump, I would assume I'll need a hose with a 90 degree bend in it.......I wonder if they make such an animal for someone wishing to do the conversion I'm considering..... |
#5
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You could always use two pieces of hose and and a metal U between for good
flow. Just be sure to double clamp all connections. Butch "Jim Kelly" wrote in message ... I don't think you will need formed hoses. I have PCM engines with belt driven Sherwood pumps. The inlet and outlet point straight down. The hoses run along the side of the engines and just turn up into the pump. The hose is 1.25" Shields Versaflex marine water hose and as long as the bends are not severe, it is easy to loop it up to the pump fittings. I considered changing to crank mounted pumps but have straight inboards and lack about an inch of bulkhead clearance. submariner wrote: On Mon, 02 May 2005 22:51:10 GMT, Jim Kelly wrote: As you noted, you will need the pump as well as the bracket and grommet that keep the crank mounted pump from spinning. Other than that, the only consideration is clearance between the front of the engine and any bulkhead present. On straight inboards this can be a problem, on stern drives it usually is not. Thanks........I have sufficient room in front of the engines, so clearance won't be an issue......The only concern I have is the hoses, being that the hose connections on the current Bravo pump are positioned straight towards the rear of the engine, so the hose run from the strainer and to the transmission cooler is straight. With a front mounted pump, I would assume I'll need a hose with a 90 degree bend in it.......I wonder if they make such an animal for someone wishing to do the conversion I'm considering..... |
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