Hmmmmm. your query brings up a question that I need answered too.

If I remember correctly, the anode ( rust-preventive sacrificial anode) that
is on every engine MAY be a different alloy for Sal****er versus Freshwater.
I'm doing the opposite of you. I am moving a 16 ft. Carolina Skiff from the
Texas bay system to my place in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin. Perhaps I should be
changing the anode coincident with that move???

Anyone know the answer????
--
RichG
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffOwners

On Thu, 05 Feb 2004 15:18:07 GMT, "RichG"
wrote:

Hmmmmm. your query brings up a question that I need answered too.

If I remember correctly, the anode ( rust-preventive sacrificial anode) that
is on every engine MAY be a different alloy for Sal****er versus Freshwater.
I'm doing the opposite of you. I am moving a 16 ft. Carolina Skiff from the
Texas bay system to my place in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin. Perhaps I should be
changing the anode coincident with that move???

Anyone know the answer????

I'll give you the basic course in chemistry. The following is a pet
peeve of mine.

Electrolysis is the result of stray current. The corrosive effects
can be the same as:

Galvanism - which is the correct term for the corrosion caused by
contact between two dissimilar metals.

A sacrificial anode basically reverses the flow of electrons and
neutralizes the current flow between dissimilar metals. The anodes
are made of zinc and in the process of neutralizing the current flow,
self destruct (technically, that's not what happens, but for all
practical purposes, that's the answer).

To answer your question, yes - different zinc alloys for different
situations, however I assume your boat is trailored so I wouldn't
worry about it all that much other than to just watch the ones that
are there and replace them once in a while.

Good luck.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT
----------

"To the fisherman born there is nothing
so provoking of curiosity as a fishing rod
in a case."

Roland Pertwee, "The River God" (1928)

Thanks for the short course.

After searching and reading about anodes on another site, it seems like the
smartest and simplest reaction to this issue is to replace my present salt
water anode with a freshwater anode. Once she gets to Wisconsin...I"M NOT
going to tow her back here to Texas!

RichG
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffOwners

On Thu, 05 Feb 2004 16:00:07 GMT, "RichG"
wrote:

Thanks for the short course.

After searching and reading about anodes on another site, it seems like the
smartest and simplest reaction to this issue is to replace my present salt
water anode with a freshwater anode. Once she gets to Wisconsin...I"M NOT
going to tow her back here to Texas!

RichG
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffOwners

That's the best thing to do - that way there's no messing around.

Actually, to save yourself some money, you can clean the old zincs
until you get to new metal - save you a few bucks and gain some time
if necessary.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT
----------

"To the fisherman born there is nothing
so provoking of curiosity as a fishing rod
in a case."

Roland Pertwee, "The River God" (1928)

On Thu, 05 Feb 2004 15:18:07 GMT, "RichG"
wrote:

Hmmmmm. your query brings up a question that I need answered too.

If I remember correctly, the anode ( rust-preventive sacrificial anode) that
is on every engine MAY be a different alloy for Sal****er versus Freshwater.
I'm doing the opposite of you. I am moving a 16 ft. Carolina Skiff from the
Texas bay system to my place in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin. Perhaps I should be
changing the anode coincident with that move???

Anyone know the answer????


It's generally zinc for sal****er and magnesium sp for fresh water.
Mark E. Williams

"Maynard G. Krebbs" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 05 Feb 2004 15:18:07 GMT, "RichG"
wrote:

Hmmmmm. your query brings up a question that I need answered too.

If I remember correctly, the anode ( rust-preventive sacrificial anode)
that
is on every engine MAY be a different alloy for Sal****er versus
Freshwater.
I'm doing the opposite of you. I am moving a 16 ft. Carolina Skiff from
the
Texas bay system to my place in Lake Geneva, Wisconsin. Perhaps I should
be
changing the anode coincident with that move???

Anyone know the answer????


It's generally zinc for sal****er and magnesium sp for fresh water.
Mark E. Williams

I run an aluminum boat in both fresh and salt water. I just replace my
zincs when they look bad.
Bill

Unless your boat is moored for some time in the water it really doesn't mater
much. If you just launch in the AM and recover in the PM and dry store the
boat in between outings you arn't likely to have galvanic corrosion issues.
Your original annodes could last for years! But keep an eye on things to be on
the safe side.
Best wishes
Mike

"CaptMP" wrote in message
...
Unless your boat is moored for some time in the water it really doesn't
mater
much. If you just launch in the AM and recover in the PM and dry store
the
boat in between outings you arn't likely to have galvanic corrosion
issues.
Your original annodes could last for years! But keep an eye on things to
be on
the safe side.
Best wishes
Mike

Lots of bass boats run in brackish water. Most of the lower Sacramento
Delta is brackish.
Bill