Can you bolt a briggs & stratton motor to a outboard bottom end? Reason I ask...
 

Guys,

Can you bolt a briggs & stratton motor to a outboard bottom end?
Reason I ask is that you can buy 25hp four stroke briggs & stratton
motors for less than a grand. If you could mate them to a 25-35hp
bottom end you would be rockin', no? Not only would it save money, but
I imagine it would last a good while provided you changed the oil once
a year.

I hate those outrageous prices that they want for a silly 25-35hp
outboard. Especially a four stroke. What does the parts look like
that connect a regular two stroke motor to the bottom end? Meaning
does the two stroke motor have a shaft that inserts into a female end
in the bottom end? Wonder how hard it would to engineer this?

Email me with ideas too.

Randolf

Why would it get wet? A little splash from wash isn't going to harm
it. I blast my b&s powered lawn mower with cold water right after
mowing the grass...it doesn't magically crack the case/block.

I'm looking for a good/inexpensive tool and don't want to line the
pockets of those greedy corps.

Who's with me?

I should add that b&s motors don't spin more than 4,000 rpm. So it
might mean using a larger prop for the hp rating. If you used a 25hp
b&s you might want to get a 35hp sized prop. So, if I could find a
35hp bottom end and mount a b&s to it...WATCH OUT!

I don't think I live anywhere near salt water and if I did the last
thing I'd try is romping in the surf with a b&s. I'm on inland, fresh
water lakes. I just want something to power my 16ft jon boat and don't
want to look like a fool blowing his kids' education money on a $3k
motor.

I don't need reverse and neutral. As for reverse...I will sit idle
while waiting for a friendly boater with a rope to back me up. As for
neutral...do push lawn mowers have a neutral?

Seriously...for reverse I have a paddle. Neutral is when the engine
isn't running. Cranking the thing isn't going to be that tough with a
little prop. How many of us bought a motor for the ability to reverse
and sit idle? What percentage of the time you use your engine do you
call upon these functions?

I grew up with a 10ft jon and a wooden paddle. Anything is an
improvement.

That's for the "self propelled" function...but there is no neutral for
the "blade"...right? So why do you need a neutral for your prop on a
little 35hp prop? Just be certain your boat is pointed in the right
direction and crank it. Idling I'd be surprised it if would crawl at
2mph...not anywhere close to "gettin' away from you"...right?

An added benefit of the b&s would be how cheap and reliable the whole
setup would be. All I do to safegaurd against issues with my b&s
motors is everytime I run it I burn all the remaining gas in the line
and bowl. This ensures no varnish and gum. Pretty simple procedure
that pays huge benefits.

99% of all problems me and my friends have had with b&s motors is the
varnish and gum that builds up from old gas from having let it setup
over winter. This is easy to resolve if you know how. Much easier to
winterize a b&s than a full blown outboard. Heck...I winterize my b&s
everytime I use it even in the middle of the summer...not cause I'm
anal, but I know better than to leave unspent fuel in the lines and
tank. Pretty simple...wouldn't you agree?

I think I might be winning some of you guys over. Comments?

On 18 Mar 2005 15:23:54 -0800, wrote:

~~snippage ~~

I hate those outrageous prices that they want for a silly 25-35hp
outboard. Especially a four stroke. What does the parts look like
that connect a regular two stroke motor to the bottom end? Meaning
does the two stroke motor have a shaft that inserts into a female end
in the bottom end? Wonder how hard it would to engineer this?

It's done is SE Asia - in particular parts of the Mekong Delta,
Cambodia and Thailand.

A long tube with bearings at either end, a drive shaft, prop on one
end and a B&S engine at the other.

No lower unit required.

Later,

Tom

Yep, but why I wonder they do that? Cheap? Shallow water? I will
investigate.

On 18 Mar 2005 16:28:36 -0800, wrote:

Yep, but why I wonder they do that? Cheap? Shallow water? I will
investigate.

You do that. Report back when you are finished.

You have your orders - execute them. :)

I rode on one a long time ago (and by long, I mean exactly that) -
they are kind of neat deals. It was a water taxi. The odd thing was I
don't remember if they had a transmission for reverse or not - I don't
think they did. It was more of a slow down technique, then bump dock.

Later,

Tom

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:

On 18 Mar 2005 16:28:36 -0800, wrote:


Yep, but why I wonder they do that? Cheap? Shallow water? I will
investigate.


You do that. Report back when you are finished.

You have your orders - execute them. :)

I rode on one a long time ago (and by long, I mean exactly that) -
they are kind of neat deals. It was a water taxi. The odd thing was I
don't remember if they had a transmission for reverse or not - I don't
think they did. It was more of a slow down technique, then bump dock.

Later,

Tom

In one of the James Bond Movies, they did this, but with much bigger
engines ---(or engines made to look much bigger) I doubt a water cooled
engine would work, but maybe an air cooled VW or similar.

What is the name of those motors? I want to find the hardware and the
price. Can you help?

I should be asking what is the design of those long outboards called?
I would like to know if I can buy "bottom end" to one new and outfit it
with a nice b&s.


wrote:
What is the name of those motors? I want to find the hardware and
the
price. Can you help?

A long tube with bearings at either end, a drive shaft, prop on one
end and a B&S engine at the other.

Like those boats in "The Man With the Golden Gun??" I always liked those
things...

--Mike

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On 18 Mar 2005 15:23:54 -0800, wrote:

~~snippage ~~

I hate those outrageous prices that they want for a silly 25-35hp
outboard. Especially a four stroke. What does the parts look like
that connect a regular two stroke motor to the bottom end? Meaning
does the two stroke motor have a shaft that inserts into a female end
in the bottom end? Wonder how hard it would to engineer this?

It's done is SE Asia - in particular parts of the Mekong Delta,
Cambodia and Thailand.

A long tube with bearings at either end, a drive shaft, prop on one
end and a B&S engine at the other.

No lower unit required.

Later,

Tom

The lower end has forward / neutral / reverse. The motor always is turning
on a running outboard.

wrote in message
ups.com...
That's for the "self propelled" function...but there is no neutral for
the "blade"...right? So why do you need a neutral for your prop on a
little 35hp prop? Just be certain your boat is pointed in the right
direction and crank it. Idling I'd be surprised it if would crawl at
2mph...not anywhere close to "gettin' away from you"...right?

Lots in the Amazon. Some had Honda engines.

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On 18 Mar 2005 16:28:36 -0800, wrote:

Yep, but why I wonder they do that? Cheap? Shallow water? I will
investigate.

You do that. Report back when you are finished.

You have your orders - execute them. :)

I rode on one a long time ago (and by long, I mean exactly that) -
they are kind of neat deals. It was a water taxi. The odd thing was I
don't remember if they had a transmission for reverse or not - I don't
think they did. It was more of a slow down technique, then bump dock.

Later,

Tom

wrote in message
oups.com...
What is the name of those motors? I want to find the hardware and the
price. Can you help?


known as mud motors.

On 18 Mar 2005 15:23:54 -0800, wrote:

Guys,

Can you bolt a briggs & stratton motor to a outboard bottom end?
Reason I ask is that you can buy 25hp four stroke briggs & stratton
motors for less than a grand. If you could mate them to a 25-35hp
bottom end you would be rockin', no? Not only would it save money, but
I imagine it would last a good while provided you changed the oil once
a year.

I hate those outrageous prices that they want for a silly 25-35hp
outboard. Especially a four stroke. What does the parts look like
that connect a regular two stroke motor to the bottom end? Meaning
does the two stroke motor have a shaft that inserts into a female end
in the bottom end? Wonder how hard it would to engineer this?

Email me with ideas too.

Randolf

I did this as a child.

wrote in message
oups.com...
What is the name of those motors? I want to find the hardware and the
price. Can you help?

Two are Mud Buddy and GoDevil. Some can be purchased with your choice of
powerheads - e.g. Kohler, B&S, Honda.

What I really want to do is bolt a 10HP, single-cylinder, direct
injected Yanmar diesel to a good bottom end outboard! That baby would
sip on some untaxed dyed fuel for days...can you feel me? Link to said
motor below....

http://www.yanmar.com/industrial/l-series.html

Who wants some?



K. Smith wrote:
wrote:
An added benefit of the b&s would be how cheap and reliable the
whole
setup would be. All I do to safegaurd against issues with my b&s
motors is everytime I run it I burn all the remaining gas in the
line
and bowl. This ensures no varnish and gum. Pretty simple
procedure
that pays huge benefits.

99% of all problems me and my friends have had with b&s motors is
the
varnish and gum that builds up from old gas from having let it
setup
over winter. This is easy to resolve if you know how. Much easier
to
winterize a b&s than a full blown outboard. Heck...I winterize my
b&s
everytime I use it even in the middle of the summer...not cause I'm
anal, but I know better than to leave unspent fuel in the lines and
tank. Pretty simple...wouldn't you agree?

I think I might be winning some of you guys over. Comments?



I'm sure you're aware B&S do make small OBs using their ubiquitous
engines.

You'd have normal OB neutral & reverse Randolf. When you get the
bottom
end say from a scrap yard for almost nothing, just make sure you get
the
engine tub as well, the shift lever linkage etc are all in that.
Probably just as cheap to buy a dead complete OB they're everywhere &

only worth their aluminium weight.

Then all you need is a coupling to connect up the OB's original
drive
shaft, simple & cheap for almost any machine shop.

Your advantages are obvious, proper 4 stroke, no corrosion from the
raw
water cooling, no need for the easily clogged & always needing
service
water pump (just take the impeller out & chuck it) easy service & not

rip off priced parts should you need them, great idea & a doddle to
do.

It might look a little "different" as most function clever things
do,
but hey that's really cool & you will enjoy the endless queries from
the
rubber neckers about the hows, who, wherefores, where can I get one &
of
course the how much.

Good stuff don't follow the mob & do something a bit clever, again
well
done.

Don't believe anything Krause says he's never owned a boat & only
ever
been boating as a paying customer on charter boats, of course his
lies
to the contrary are endless, oops there I go again talking of Krauses

lies:-)

K


Krause's lie of the day is a bit of a double header sorry, but
so
many lies so little time:-)

Whenever his total lack of any real boating knowledge looks like

uncovering him as the sad little liar he is, he posts some crazy list
of
boats he claims are his base, here are just a few of his claims, he
has
tried to sustain these lies & as each one is shown to be a
fabrication
he just invents a new one, the latest is the "Parker".

Don't feel conned nor stupid if you've been taken in by him, he
make exactly the same lies up in the jet ski NGs when he used to
pollute
them with his crap, can you believe it he claimed to be a jet
skier!!!!!
(responsible & caring in the socialist way of course:-))

This idiot has never owned a boat & never will he is totally
devoid
of any boating experience nor knowledge, other than what he picks up
in
this NG & the occasional paid charter fishing trip.



Here are some:



Hatteras 43' sportfish
Swan 41' racing/cruising sloop
Morgan 33
O'Day 30
Cruisers, Inc., Mackinac 22
Century Coronado
Bill Luders 16, as sweet a sailboat as ever caught a breeze.
Century 19' wood lapstrake with side wheel steering
Cruisers, Inc. 18' and 16' wood lapstrakes
Wolverines. Molded plywood. Gorgeous. Several. 14,15,17 footers
with various
Evinrudes
Lighting class sailboat
Botved Coronet with twin 50 hp Evinrudes. Interesting boat.
Aristocraft (a piece of junk...13', fast, held together with spit)
Alcort Sunfish
Ancarrow Marine Aquiflyer. 22' footer with two Caddy Crusaders.
Guaranteed 60 mph. In the late 1950's.
Skimmar brand skiff
Arkansas Traveler fiberglass bowrider (I think it was a bowrider)
Dyer Dhow
Su-Mark round bilge runabout, fiberglass
Penn Yan runabouts. Wood.
Old Town wood and canvas canoe
Old Town sailing canoe...different than above canoe




I own the following boats:


a 36' "lobster" style boat
a 19' center console fishing boat
an 11' inflatable dinghy
1/2 of a canoe


Those are the types of boats I currently own. I'm also in the market
for
some interesting kind of lightweight flatbottomed skiff, similar to
the
old Skimmar, for the "new" 51-year-old 10 hp outboard I recently
bought.


One of the boats is kept on dry land within a half mile of Chesapeake
Bay. One is kept at a private covered boat dock in a little creek off
Chesapeake Bay. One is kept in the backyard of a friend who lives
much
closer to the Shenandoah River than I do. And one is kept next to the
36-footer."